madehtsobi

[QUOTE=chusteveb]
- Locate and T-Tap the B+ wire as shown ( not the wire you see that I attached a red and black wire to, but the one below it with the single yellow wire attached to it). Install your inline fuse to this T-Tap (picture isn't how I did it)


ok...where is this B+ wire?

is it the fat white wire thats attached to that yellow wire in the pic?

thanks
wes

madehtsobi

ok nevermind i think i know which one!! the one with the yellow wire coming from it right?

oh yeh chusteveb.....any way to do the auto-up and auto-down feature on the rear two windows as the two front windows since i will have the door panel off?

thanks again
wes

neffster

I hope I'm not breaking any forum rules, but a Florida G35 Club sponsor makes and sells this exact mod. I don't work for him, but in case you haven't seen this... Click on Products then click on Honda. The product is "finished" and comes in a nice black box with wires and wiring instructions. All you need are the blue wire splices for $2/box and you're set.

If I can't post this, mods please remove it for me and sorry in advance.

chusteveb

Wow neat! I'll have to check this out. Don't see why you can't post this.

chusteveb

Yeah, I believe you are right. Just double check it with a voltmeter or a 12V test light.

Dei makes a module called the 530T. It will control 2 windows up and down giving them both the 'one touch operation' feature. Is this what you are refering too?

jastor3759

Thanks for the info! I e-mailed the company and verified that it should work. He did admit it had never been "officially" tested in a 3rd gen TL. I will be ordering one today and will see how well it works.

kpierson

Someone once asked me if it would be possible to simulate KPtechnologies window module with relays, and I guessed it would take 4 timer relays to do it. But, that was dealing with only one pulse to rasie the windows, not two.

It seems to me that there should be an eaiser way to go about this. Try tapping the door lock actuator signal INSIDE the door instead of the piezo. Also, grab your 12vdc directly from the power window switch. Your current output should be no greater then roughly 350mA (assuming each coil is 80mA) and shouldn't cause a problem. Also, this way all of your wiring will be protected by a non vital fuse in the car (the power window switch is fused). One thing to keep in mind is that the BCM will NOT allow the windows to be raised if the ignition is on, so tapping the 'lock actuator' signal isn't necesarily a bad idea. The downside, is that EVERY time you lock the doors and the car isn't on the windows will raise. This can be fixed with one more timer relay used to create a 1-2 second 'window' in which another pulse will trigger the entire system.

This would be a great weekend DIY if it could be done without running wires through the gloppy mess they call a plug! I've never been so frustrated working on a car!!!!!!!! (of course it being 10 degrees outside didn't help either)

Keep up the good work!

Kevin Pierson
Director of Engineering
KPtechnologies

madehtsobi

ok i JUST tried installed it and nothing happens after pressing the buttons

i heard a few pops when i tried to connect the ground cables and checked all the fuses and none were blown

how do i check if the modules are messed up?

help!!

madehtsobi

oh yeh and now my malfunction indicator light is on as well.....WTF???

madehtsobi

ok just disconnected the battery and that stupid indicator light went off.......

now back to the modules and the mod...........

pulled the whole thing out of the car and double-checked the wiring and its right

grrrrrrrrrrr.........

rbf351

i had the same problem

make sure the first 2 relays are set correctly, and the 3rd is about a 1/4 turn

madehtsobi

yes they are set correctly!

first two all the way left and moved back just a lil

the 3rd one...i left it in the middle and nothing happened

1/4 turn left or right? thanks

rbf351

1/4 to the left

and are you holding the button or just pressing it 2 times? Also is the beep set to be on? if relay 1 and 2 are click after you press the remote 2 times, then everything is working

madehtsobi

ok

i tried both ways but none worked...yes the beep is set

and i don't hear any type of clicking either

how do i go about checking to see if the modules are messed up?

thanks

rbf351

a test light is the easiest way to test them or a volt meter

are you sure you are connected to the right power wire, there is no reason you should have gotten any type of error light when hooking this up.

madehtsobi

sorry if this sounds stupid, but how would i hook up this test light to the modules? like which wire? keep the it grounded and test the red/yellow wires?

yes i am pretty sure of the power wire.

in the door it is the harness that has three wires and its the red/white bottom wire

that B+ wire is the thick white wire right above the fuse box right?

thanks for all the help guy!

wes

kpierson

If you are throwing a check engine light I would NOT use a test lamp to trouble shoot. It is possible you tapped into a communications signal wire, and if you put a test light on a comm signal it is possible (unlikely, but still possible) to damage the devices communication on the line. This, of course, only applies if you are using a convention bulbed test light, if your test light uses LEDs then it shouldn't be an issue.

I would start with the basics, make sure you have a solid power and ground. Then, trace the signal starting from the piezo output. Make sure when you lock the doors twice you are getting voltage on the piezo wire to your modules. Then, go through the relays and check all the signals in the order that they are wired. If you arn't hearing any clicking at all I would say it is save to assume you didn't tap the correct piezo wire. You might even consider disconnecting the wire from the relay to the piezo wire and apply voltage to it to see if it triggers the whole system.

rbf351

yes those 2 wires are correct, what about the other wire under the dash that you tapped into?

madehtsobi

well...ground and then the other wire from the harness in the door

and the other is bottom white wire next to that brown harness

i believe those are the other wires

madehtsobi

well the its not the check engine light...just a malfunction lamp but that is gone now since i disconnected the battery.

yeh i didn't hear any type of clicking so i will recheck all the wires and make sure the t-taps goes through the wires because i think they didn't catch all the way.

i will probably buy like a volt meter or something of that sort and see if i can get any kind of signal from them.

thanks

flnsx

When you have the panels off, install the Mole skin kit too.

chusteveb

Good idea to recheck your t tap connectors. Sometimes I'll trouble shoot my problems back to my own connections.

Also make sure that the wire you ran through the door into the car did not get pinched somehow by accident.

madehtsobi

ok...i finally got it to work!

i had messed up on one of the wirings and then the timers were set wrong!

i had the 1st and 3rd timer reversed...

awesome!!

thanks for all the help and answers guys!

nibalm3

OK I have problems. i cannot make this thing to work....

4 wires to connect to the modules:

a) The cable from the door (which I test and got it, by touching in it to ground
simulating the car closed,, and Yes , it bring the windows & roof to close).

b) Ground ... (who dont know that one)...

c) B+ ..constant +. (hard to find with these pictures, but I used a multimeter )

d) the wire from the brown plug (This one is like white/gray dots which I guess
it's alone right in the bottom corner of the Brown plug,, I guess is this one..
Is there any way I can test if this the one......) ???

Well I connected this wad stuff to the module and do not work...

The Modules I have wired this way : (3x Dei 528 Timer + 1 PAC TR4 Remote ad)

POSITIVE (+) = Reds from timer 1,2,3 , plus brown from timer two, plus
yellow ( which is the positive in the PAC TR4 ) . 5 wires total...

NEGATIVES (-) = All Blacks from Timer 1,2,3 , plus black remote adapter, plus
Browns from Timer 1 & 3 ... For a total of 6 wires.

Two Yellow from Timer 1 & 3 .
Two Black- Stripe from Timer 1 & 2 .
Blue (trigger output from Rem Adapter) conected to Black-Stripe from timer 3.
green ( trigger input in the Pac tr4 ) conected to Yellow from Timer 2..

In other words :
I have 4 wires comming out from these modules :
1) Positives (5) to the B +
2) Negatives (6) To Ground of car
3) The Two Yellow from timer 1 & 3 . conected to The Wire From the Door.
4) The two Black-Stripe from timer 1 & 2 . Conected to the Wire Brown Plug.


yes , I cut the BLUE lOOp on the 3 timers. and Shorten the 3 oranges one .. .

I adjusted the timers this way :
Timer one : ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT ( then a lil touch to the right)
Timer Two : ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT ( then a lil touch to the right)
Timer 3 : Since these Timers are 90 sec. . I put the arrow in the middle,
then a bit to the left .. or once in the middle a 1/4 to the left..
Meaning since this timer is set to be @ 1/4 from left is 90 sec/ 4 =
about 22 seconds delay (enough to close the f*cking roof )

I really did everything step by step..
I dont know what else to do....
I feel like I wasted my money................. How can I test the relays ??
How can I test the Power Adapter ??
How can I test if I have the Right Cable from the Brown PLUG ???


REAL HELP PLEASE !!!!!

nibalm3

and yes I hear the BEEP when I hit twice on the fob .

chusteveb

Hey nibalm3, looks like you know what you are doing! Remember that relay 1 has to have a shorter time set than relay 2 but not by much. If messing with the relay timer settings doesn't fix your problem then do the following. Base off what you have posted, I would take the wire that is suppose to be connected to the wire in the brown plug, disconect it and momentarily touch it to a 12V source. If everything is wired correctly, this should activate all the relays and start the roll up/ close process. If this is the case then you know that you simply need to find the correct wire in the brown plug. If you have an analog multimeter then use it to check for voltage. It is a small positive output. Hope that helps you out. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg-ster

Do you know if this product is of good quality?

I just may try it...

neffster

I have the window roll up module (with built in door lock module), the shift light and the VDC memory module on my 2004.5 G35 coupe. It works flawlessly with my OEM remote and I'm super happy with it!

The window roll up module has ALWAYS worked and is super easy to install and program. The owner of the company is Kevin Pierson and he would bend over backwards to help you out. I've actually been a beta-tester for several of his products and he really tests things thoroughly before sending them out.

kpierson

Greg,

KPtechnologies uses only the highest quality electronic components to populate our American made circuit boards. Our processor of choice is manufactured by Atmel and approaches 1.2 million instructions per second (1.2mghz). All of the software has been tested and tweaked over the past 18 months and we have NO plans of changing it again. Each module also includes a genuine Molex header and connector, making it possible to disconnect the module at any time. We finish our modules off with high quality ABS plastic enclosures.

After the sale KPtechnologies offers a full warranty for one year. We will fix or replace any defective module at our discretion. After one year it is up to KPtechnologies to decide how to procede with defective modules. In our experiance thus far we haven't had a single module fail after its been installed.

My background includes an electronics related bachelors degree and over 5 years of professional car alarm installation. When starting KPtechnologies my partner and I both agreed that if we were going to be successful that it was imperative that we make the highest quality products possible and that EACH module be tested before it is entered in to our inventory.

After the sale KPtechnologies offers free Email support, phone support at our discretion, and support through our forum, www.KPtechnologies.com/forums. To date we have not had a single module returned due to not being able to get it to work.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,

Kevin Pierson
Director of Engineering
www.KPtechnologies.com

neffster

Even I didn't know about the warranty. Knowing that I'd say... what do you have to lose!

kpierson

We offer a warranty because we feel like we have to because everyone else does.

We fix damaged modules because I buy a LOT of aftermarket parts and I feel people should get what they pay for, no questions asked. If someone is installing one of our modules and they hook it up wrong we fix it for free. I've been there and I know how it feels to have a company turn their back on you. I can honestly say we work hard to achieve 100% customer satisfaction, and we will continue to do that.

Pankul

How easy is it to install your module? does it still involve DIY or installation services are available ?

antoinel

The 3rd gen Tl will definitely do that. If you unlock the car from the key fob and then hold down the unlock button it will let down the windows and sunroof. But you can't let them up from the key fob.

However if you unlock the car using your key then by turning the key in the other direction you can let down all windows and sunroof. If you do it again you can let all the windows back up and close the sunroof. It's in the manual.

neffster

100% DIY. You only need the tools to remove the door pannel and from there you can either use wire taps or solder the connecitons. I used blue wire taps from Home Depot for ~$2.50 for a 10 pack.

On a difficulty scale of 1 (easy) to 10 (impossible) this would be a 2. The most time consuming part is removing the door pannel and if you've done that once before you could probably do it in 2-3 minutes.

kpierson

Our instructions are fairly detailed, but are based off of a 04 Accord Sedan. If you have anything different then the install won't be step by step. If you can find a door panel removal DIY on a forum somewhere the rest will be identical (all the Hondas and Acuras that I have done so far have had the exact same wiring.)

We also have a support forum at www.KPtechnologies.com/forums for installation help and advice. If, for some reason, you can't get it installed correctly we do offer a money back guarentee, but, in two years we havn't had a single customer inquire about it!

SilverStoneTTL

www.kptechnologies.net

saiko_cl_duck

hmmm, thats a hell of an idea. I'm gonna look and see about doing this on my 1st gen CL.
Shouldnt be that hard, and i have tons of good wire.

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

I have an aftermarket alarm so I press the lock twice normally to arm both the AM alarm and the Factory alarm. If I install the kptechnologies module will this always close all my windows and sunroof when I set my alarms? Sometimes I want to keep the windows cracked or sunroof cracked (it is SoCal heat). Any one know?

kpierson

The module is designed for use with the OEM keyless/alarm system. If there are any other aftermarket products installed the module may not work as designed.

In your specific case, every time you press the 'LOCK' button twice it will trigger the module, but you can then press 'LOCK' a third time to shut the module down, before the windows even start moving, or when they raise to the point you want to leave them at for venting.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

FYI guys,
KP is running a group buy for these on a popular generation 7 accord forum page. I just ordered a window controller from there.

Can't wait to get it installed