zax123

Hey all,

I just wanted to let you know about an eBay store I found that sells both of these items:

http://stores.ebay.com/Hyper-Lightin...isplayZ2QQtZkm

He's got the relays at $16.98 which is a really good price and the power adapter for $9.98. The power adapter is in the Car Audio & Accessories section. It's the PAC TR-4. The relay is in the Car Alarms & Accessories. It's the 528T.

I'm ordering from this place today... The rest of the stuff I'm getting from Digikey. Once I've done the install, I'll let you all know how it goes.

tlguy99

Thats awesome!! Points for you. As soon as I get my helms manual with the elctrical diagrams. I'm doing it!!

chusteveb

Ok cool, I knew there were going to be some Q's on my instructions.

^^
MyJohnson, you're not dense, I laugh at myself when I go back and read these instructions. This is my picture but I took this pic right before I installed my relay pac. There were to wires that were T-tapped in the picture since I had hardwired my Radar detector and for the avelectronics and dvd player. So what I mean was that it is now a bit different, the picture was not the end result.
- In the picture you will see 2 wires (thicker wires) that are both T-tapped. One is a B+ wire (shows positive all the time, ie. constant); the other is an Ignition wire (only shows B+ with the key on the 'ON' position)
- Even though in my picture, you will see both wires T-tapped, in my instructions I was referring to the lower of the 2 wires is the B+ wire, the one you'll be looking for in this project.
- I'm also refering to my aftermarket yellow wire that is attached to the end of the B+ t-tap when I say "not the wire you see....but the one below it with the single yellow wire"

let me know if this helps to clarify. If needed be I can take a few more pics.


BTW, thanks for all the feedback and great comments. If there are more questions, continue to ask away!

zax123

Chusteveb,

Sorry to ask again, but would have a reference somewhere that mentions how to remove the door panel properly and the kick panel without damaging anything? Thanks!

If you'd like, I could draw a schematic of the relays and stuff. Just so the techies know what's going on - as in why you connected the wires in such a way. My version of Visio (Standard) doesn't have electronics shapes, but I'm sure I can find a way.

xlilbluux

you think you can circle where you connected the stuff to make it easier to see?

MisterLawyer

you think you can come over to my place and do the mod for me to make it easier for me?

I'm Batman

- I don't have a DEI part number for the Remote Power Adapter but I'll post it asap once I find the info. Another name for this is a Low Voltage Turn-On, they are used in aplications where factory headunits are to be driving aftermarket amplifiers but do not have a remote turn on lead (I used one in my TL for the aftermarket amp used to drive my aftermarket subwoofer). Again, this part may very possibly be found at your local Best Buy install bay.

The Directed Remote Power Adapter is a p/n 55000 and should sell for about $10-12.

I'm Batman

The Directed Remote Power Adapter is a p/n 55000 and it should sell for $10-12.

chusteveb

^
Thanks for the info on that Remote Power Adapter.

To those who would like this mod done to their car but find it may be too hard; is the part about finding the wires in the car harder or the connection of the 3 relays and remote power adapter?

zax123

I am not finding it hard, but I would say that a schematic of the relay connection would be cool in order to understand exactly what's happening. I haven't received my relays and power adapter yet, so I can't make one. But if someone else who has the parts could make one, that would be cool.

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

better than the thread about the appointing SSM executive positions (how fricken lame is that??) or better than the 4 millionth post about rattles/vibration in the tires and useless predictions of AWD in 2009 TL's??

(for non-native speakers, sarcasm should be implied)

Casper42

This is page 60-7 if I remember right in the service guide. I was gonna scan it last night but I forgot. I remember it starts by popping something off by the inside door handle and there are 2 screws behind what you pop off. I'll try and get it scanned and posted tonight.

PS: Zax, you got an FTP Server running anywhere?

Casper42

1 Black from Power
3 Blacks from Relay(s)
1 Brown from Timer1
1 Brown from Timer3
--------------------------
6 Wires Total

Where did 7 come from?

Is 7 an extension to the ground loop (rather than direct grounding all 6 wires)??

zax123

Casper:

I would love to have those file uploaded. If anyone wants me to, I can host a website of helpfiles of scans from service guides. I run a small hosting company so I have lots of webspace and the capability to do it.

I also want to take out my radio head unit to check for an AUX port on the Canadian model... would you happen to have the instructions for that? For taking off those aluminum pieces and all that from the dash. I could host all this somewhere as I said.

Here's my FTP site:

HOST: selenium.densi.com
USER: ftp-upload
PASS: send2us

Thanks dude, I really appreciate it. If you have tips on removing the kick panel too, I'd love to see 'em.

Rob

Shinj1EVA

Haven't frequented the forums lately, and I come back to this. Wow, amazing post. You've given me something to do during my winter break Thanks.

Casper42

No problem. I will try to include those tonight as well. I will either UL to you or just stuff them up on ImageShack once I get them scanned.

If the pages werent so damn flimsy (I think they will get caught in the scanner's doc feeder), I would have the binding on the book cut off and have the entire thing scanned into multiple PDFs. (I have an entire dept here at work that does this all day long, and we host their servers so they can be easily persuaded). Just reminds me to slap American Honda for not making it digital in the first place.

chusteveb

WOW! you are right! Too bad I can't count. 6 is right.

zax123

Casper, where did you get the service manual? Was it expensive? I might be interested... but I'd still love those scans cuz I probably won't get a manual before doing all the installs I have to do.

chusteveb

I can verbally tell how to remove the door panel which may help a bit too.

- Put the window all the way down.
- Behind the interior door release handle is a cover that upon removing you will find 2 screws, remove those.
- Next you will find a rubber stopper below the door hinge (on the door itself) that is screwed into the door, remove this also.
- The last screw is below the master power window switches right above the door map pocket, it holds the door armrest to the door itself (if you get down towards the ground and look up at the door you will find it easily) this needs to be removed also.
- Using your finders (or a flat head screw driver) pry at the corner of the door panel by the speaker; using force will pop the plugs that hold the door panel to the door itself.
- Work your way around the door till it is completely free from the door then lift the door panel up and over the lock 'thingy' at the top corner of the door.
- Gently tilting it back unhook the cable at the interior door release handle
- Finally unplug all necessary harness' on the door panel to free the door panel completely from the door itself.
- Double check to see if all the plugs came off the door and are on the door panel itself, if not remove these plugs from the door and reinstall them onto the door panel in preperation to reinstalling back onto the door.

zax123

Steve,

Thanks for that! I can definitely handle that. Any secrets to removing the kick panel and stuff around the fusebox? Probably straight forward eh?

I can hardly wait to get all the parts and try this out. I only ordered the last parts today so I might not get everything in time to install it next weekend, but who knows.

Thanks again.

chusteveb

^
Not really, no screws involved anyways. Remember to pull enough of the rubber door seal out of the way since it also helps to hold the kick panel in place. It does fit with the long piece that goes along the foot of the door so I normally pull from the bottom first to help separate them. Only 2 plugs that need to be poped for the drivers kick panel.

As to the drivers under dash cover panel, no screws either. It's just attached at 2 points, the rest of it just sits in a certain location.

Casper42

I got bored earlier today and drew up this Wiring Diagram for the Stuff Steve mentioned in the 4th or so post of this thread. I'm no EE which wil be obvious, but hopefully it will give those who need to see something to understand it, a better look at the wiring of the Power Adapter and Relays.


Notes not already in the pic:
There are Orange Wires on every Relay that go UNUSED
The Wires who's color might not be obvious in the diagram is Brown, not Orange

I had Steve look this over already and at first look he said it looked correct


ZAX123: Helm Inc - 2004 Acura TL
Go there to purchase the Service Guide (1st on the list, $69) and if you want, the Electrical Troubleshooting Guide (2nd on the list, $47)
From what I have read on these forums over thepast 6 months, thats the cheapest NEW official guides your gonna find.

Ed-Head

Chusteveb,

I've been reading this thread with great interest and am considering making the mod.

I've been wondering, would it be possilbe to follow the "White/Red" wire to see if it possibly originates in the car?? IE....find some way to install the T-Tap on the "white/Red" wire without taking off the door panel??

It would be nice if the Wire goes thru the stock boot and into the door...thus allowing someone to T-tap the wire under the dash somewhere.

Just curious

-Ed

Casper42

I dont know which manuals Steve has (if any), but I will try to research this tonight or tomorrow via the Electrical Guide and see what goes where from the factory.

My first inclination was that the door key mechanism was linked to the master window up/down buttons within the door, and thus the reason for tapping within the door. But then I remembered this closes the Moon Roof too, so its gotta send a signal back to main panel somewhere (or if not, at least through the stock boot on the way to the overhead Moon Roof controls.

zax123

Casper, thanks for the schematic, that's cool! Reps for you.

So uh, the Helm's manual. Does the first one have all the electrical schematics or do I have to get the electrical troubleshooting guide for that one? For example, while you're doing research for the wire that close the windows/sunroof, are you looking in the main Helm's manual or the electrical one? Just curious as I will mostly be doing electrical mods to my car, and would definitely need that manual if the first one didn't have it.

Would be cool if that wire existed, but I think I still need to get into the door to install the remote starter I'm going to put in. I'd like to tap into the seat memory switch and maybe to the factory alarm arm/disarm wires which I am told by:

http://www.robertcotran.com/tlwiring.html

are inside the driver's door. I find it weird that they aren't also in the car, but who knows.

Anyway, thanks for the info, and if you do find the roll-up wire somewhere near the fuse panel, please let us know. Thanks!

Rob

acuraTL44

Great job!!! rep points for you

Casper42

Zax, the Helms guide shows what wires go where to a certain extent, but the Electrical takes all that and gets much more detailed. A "Wire" in the Service Manual can be a 10 wire bundle with a single plug.

The electrical guide will tell you which wire does what within that 10 wire bundle.

zax123

Casper, thanks for the info. I'm buying the service manual from flnsx and if I find that it isn't sufficient, I'll get the electrical manual as well.

zax123

Changed my mind, I'm getting the electrical manual too. Wanna be sure I have all the info I need when I do my remote starter install.

zax123

Steve,

I have found a unit which I think can do everything in one. It's the PAC TR-7. It is a fully programmable with all kinds of possibilities. I've ordered three of them just to be able to play with them. But I think one of them will be able to get the signal from the piezo wire and then give a delayed pulse or even two which is necessary for the unlock wire in the door.

Here's the link on autotoys.com:

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/TR...PAC_p_188.html

I bought them from http://www.audiooutfitter.com for $17.86 each.

They are made by Pacific Accessory Corporation: http://www.pac-audio.com. Their website has all the instruction manuals and FAQs for the product and it looks promising. Item #4 of the instruction manual: http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/tr7instr.pdf looks like exactly what we need.

Let me know what you think.

Rob

zax123

Steve,

Just found a feature of the TR-7 which might be even better suited. It's a hidden BONUS feature. Check this out: http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/tr7bonus.pdf.

It's number 18 and 20. I'm sure this unit can do what we need...

Maybe you could help me out and let me know exactly what output is needed once the piezo buzzer is triggered. Is it a double pulse output? Do you need a delay on the double pulse or can it fire right away? Either way, I think this unit can do it. What do you think? Will make the whole mod quite a bit cheaper.

Sorry for being so eager. I love this stuff.

Casper42

Removing Door Panel - I think only the first page is needed, but included the second page just in case.


Here is the wiring of the door stuff from the Service Guide


More Detailed information from the Eletrical Troubleshooting Guide



Looks like the door has a mini computer in it, and it MIGHT not be possible to tap a wire under the dash as we had hoped. Might still be forced to run a new wire through the boot.
Electrical Guide pages refference other pages for other items, as well as "Photo" and "View". If you guys want the Photo or View for any particular parts, lemme know. I brought my manuals into work today but will have to hunt down a scanner if you need anything else.

zax123

Casper, you are the man!! Thanks.

stocks2k

Zax123, wanted to see if you had any luck with the PAC unit.

zax123

I still haven't received them. I should be receiving them at my warehouse in the US tomorrow, but then they have to get shipped up to Canada, and I think I'm only going to do the install next weekend, but I'm definitely going to update a couple of threads about my success and hopefully have lots of pictures and diagrams to go with it.

chusteveb

Hey guys just checking in to see how everything is going and to answer any questions that may have come up.

- Casper 42; Excellent diagrams and thanks for posting the schematics from your manual!!!
- zax123; great find on that Pac TR-7! If this unit can turn a single-pulse positive low-voltage input-signal into a double-pulse negative ground output-signal with the second negative-pulse timed long enough for the windows to close, then you have found the right module. This would really simplify the project, especially if there is a lack of knowledge in relays.

Great job guys; any questions, just ask!

zax123

Steve,

I'm only getting the parts next week mid-week. I will be doing the install next weekend. I'm not TOTALLY sure that TR-7 can do the double pulse with second pulse being timed, but I think it can. I'll have to test it when I get it. I know it can do a double pulse with second pulse timed but only if the trigger is constant. So I might use a second TR-7 (I ordered three... hehe) to deliver a constant timed signal to the TR-7 pulsing the roll-up control wire. I don't think it'll take more than two TR-7s and it might take just one. In any case, it's fewer parts than the three relays and the one remote trigger. I am going to be wiring it to my alarm system which I've also ordered, so the trigger won't be the peizo buzzer, but it'll still work the same way.

I'll definitely let everyone know how it goes. I plan on taking lots of pics since the alarm install is going to be quite involved...

Rob

Jerky

that... seems like a lot of work to just get ur windows to roll up...is it really worth it?

how long did it take?

chusteveb

zax123- let me know how the alam install goes!

This mod to me wasn't hard at all nor was the install; I may make it seem harder than it really is w/ my version of instructions... It only took me a couple of hours including the prewiring which I did in front of the TV while my 'other half' watched the bachelor. Therefore I find this mod very worth it. Since I can open the windows and roof from the key fob, I'd like to be able to close them all from there too. Also when I walk away from the car and hit the lock button twice and hear the "beep" I know everything is shut tight and locked up.

But here is the initial reason as to why I wanted to do this mod, the mod in the picture below would restrict me from being able to perform the function of closing everything up as it was designed to do from the lock core and I wanted to retain this feature.

What's better than to have this feature right from my fob?!!!

zax123

Steve,

The picture is a bit unclear -- did you shave your lock?

I agree that this is a worthwhile mod. I'm going to have to do the opposite as well since I'm installing an aftermarket alarm system. I have to tap into the wire which rolls the windows DOWN. That'll be interesting. If my alarm system has enough free channels, I'll have one signal for rolling them down a bit, and another for rolling them down all the way. We'll see if that's possible once I get the PAC TR-7s.

I'll let you know next weekend how the install goes. Talk to you later.

Rob