3G TL (2004-2008)
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Windows up, roof close, from Fob (DIY + pics)

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Old 05-14-2006, 02:18 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by ililillilillilil
i want one. how much?
He said special pricing, hopefully it's better than $48.99. I cant' believe I missed the group buy by a couple of hours.
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:21 AM
  #202  
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i hate group buys. it's like the manager of a store making everyone wait outside until there is a big enough crowd of customers to open the doors
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:20 PM
  #203  
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Actually, this was nothing like that at all. We took payments immediately and we shipped immediately. There were no miniums, and we discounted the modules ~$15 right off the bat!
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:59 PM
  #204  
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No, this group buy was really great, sorry I just missed it. I still want this mod
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:25 PM
  #205  
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so, what now?
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Old 05-14-2006, 06:29 PM
  #206  
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Well, we just sold 76 modules. We only had 60 in stock.

We have more materials coming in this week, so we won't be too far behind. After we get caught up on that we'll offer a special price on the window module.
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Old 05-14-2006, 06:40 PM
  #207  
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Please keep us posted, as I would love to have this.

Michael
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:53 AM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by kpierson
Well, we just sold 76 modules. We only had 60 in stock.

We have more materials coming in this week, so we won't be too far behind. After we get caught up on that we'll offer a special price on the window module.
are you going to post this on the main forum, or the Black Market?
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Old 05-15-2006, 02:09 AM
  #209  
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would this also work wid the 2g tls? or no, is there a way?
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:35 AM
  #210  
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I'll make sure I post it somewhere will it will be easy to see.

I will bump this thread about it, too.

As far as the 2nd gen, I don't believe it will work on them, but I'm not sure. You have to be able to control the windows with your key in the drivers door key cylinder for it to work!
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:37 AM
  #211  
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I have a questions:

Is there anyways to disable the sunroof from also opening? I feel like sometimes I dont want/need it open, like when the car is under a tree in the spring/fall

And when you said you dont need to cut any wires? Do you mean its plug and play or you just tap into the required wires. Would I have to run wires through the harness? or just install the module on the drivers side?

Thanks
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:59 AM
  #212  
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I've never investigated chaning the way the OEM 'open' feature works. I'm sure it would be possible to modify it, but I'm not sure how practical/easy it would be.

Our modules are not plug and play, they require tapping directly in to the wires needed. In the Honda/Acura 4 of the 5 wires tap in to an area where there isn't even a harness present (inside the door). With a proper installation it should be possible to remove the module, if ever needed, and leave little evidence anything was ever modified inside the door.
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Old 05-15-2006, 09:31 AM
  #213  
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Sounds good thanks.......I will deff be getting it when the group buy starts.
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Old 05-15-2006, 10:53 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by kpierson
I'll make sure I post it somewhere will it will be easy to see.

I will bump this thread about it, too.

I'll be looking for it
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Old 05-15-2006, 10:07 PM
  #215  
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when you press the lock button once it locks, press it again & u get a confirmation beep. do u then hold it for a few seconds before the windows start moving, or do they roll up with the beep?
also how do u secure the module so it doesnt rattle, double sided tape?
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Old 05-15-2006, 10:57 PM
  #216  
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You don't have to hold it down, upon the second press (within 1.5 seconds) the window module will activate. There is a slight delay before the windows start to rise.

If you want to hear the confirmation without rolling the windows up wait a few seconds before hitting 'LOCK' again.

The mounting is up to the person who installs it, but what I've done with the Honda/Acuras is wire tie the module to the harness that is right behind the speaker. I have yet to hear a rattle out of it. It is IMPORTANT to secure the module somehow, as simply laying it inside the door will cause it to get very wet and fail prematurely. These modules do not like to sit in water. We also recomend mounting them so that the harness is facing down, as the prevents water from dripping directly in to the module.

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:49 AM
  #217  
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Preventing water damage

Originally Posted by kpierson
We also recomend mounting them so that the harness is facing down, as the prevents water from dripping directly in to the module.
Would it help if you put it in a zip loc bag before zip tying it to the harness?
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:55 AM
  #218  
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It wouldn't hurt it! I never even thought about that. They actually ship inside a small ziplock bag, maybe someone can try that out!
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:35 PM
  #219  
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I got my module and am in the process of installing it. Took me a few minutes to figure it out and I initially hooked it up wrong, but I got it working although some smoke rolled out of the box.

Hey, KP, how important is the R13 resistor? Because it is a little black and smoked pretty good, but the unit still works fine.

You do not need to put the unit in the door or remove the speaker. All the connections are right at the wiring harness for the windows switch and you can mount the box inside the door panel. I will post some pictures in a few minutes.

Will
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:39 PM
  #220  
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Where did you tap the door lock actuator wire at? Does it actually go to the switch? If so, then the TL is 100% completely different then any car I've ever seen!
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:44 PM
  #221  
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FAST4DR, a lot of people are interested in your write up! Good job getting it to work.
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:46 PM
  #222  
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R13 is a current limiting resistor on the actual output of the module. Its purpose is to protect the transistor that is providing the signal. Its a very small resistor (1/6 watt) and may get warm if you short out the module to 12vdc when its activated.

Based on Ohms law, if you connected the output wire (green) directly to a 12vdc source you would output roughly 255mA through the resistor (the tranistor sourcing the current is only rated at 200mA). 255mA multilied by 12 = ~3.5 watts.

To sum it up, resistor rated at 0.16 watts
Connected directly to 12vdc = 3.5 watts.

I wonder if its possible that you connected it to a 5vdc source, which would make the likely hood of survival much better
Connected to 5vdc source = 100mA, which equals 0.5 watts.

Anyway, if its still working, I don't think I would worry too much about it. If it gives you any problems send it back and we'll fix it under our 'no questions asked' warranty!
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:58 PM
  #223  
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Ok, realize that this is not a very good write up and I will make a better one, but I wanted to get this out there so people would go through taking out the speaker and cutting open the wiring harness.



What I did was take the windows module out of the door panel so that I could have it in my lap and not have the door panel in the way.

I tapped the power and ground from the window switches.

The Green KP wire goes to the white/red wire from the connector that is under the white plastic. You have to stretch the white plastic a little to get to it. It goes to the door lock cylinder switch, where you put your key.



Then the blue wire goes to the yellow/black wire in the wiring harness that leads to the door lock motor as seen in the picture below.



Of course all of these wires are just pushed in to the connections to test it out. I am going to use taps on all of them.

Then you can zip tie the module inside the door panel above this huge chunk of styrofoam that is in the lower corner.



Will
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:28 PM
  #224  
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Here is pic of the resister I messed up. What ohm resistor do I need? I could get one at radio shack and solder it in myself.



Will
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:30 PM
  #225  
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KP,

Should I put a fuse on the Red power wire? and if so what rating?

Will
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:32 PM
  #226  
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Thanks Will for the writeup! Could you please tell us which taps you used once everything is in place? I am looking for an alternative method to soldering, although I have a soldering iron.

Thanks for trying the install out.
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:18 PM
  #227  
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datmrman- I just installed mine using 18-22 guage wire taps from Radio Shack and they work perfectly.

People- don't rush to return your units. At $32, its a great mod that I'm sure you will get use out of. Moreover, not only does the unit work, it installs in literally 30 minutes max.
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:24 PM
  #228  
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Thanks. I thought they would.

Glad your install went smoothly.
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:43 PM
  #229  
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those who want to return it, I will giva ya $35 shipped for it.........I am iching to install something new, just did the DRL, need more easy wiring mods.........
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:52 PM
  #230  
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Anyone that is returning theres, I will buy yours.

Michael
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:44 PM
  #231  
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Sorry guys, so far no one has contacted us to set up a return. Actually, in over two years we've never had a return due to an unhappy customer (we have had one return, but it was because the module wasn't compatible with what the customer wanted to do).

::Runs and knocks on wood::
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Old 05-20-2006, 03:12 PM
  #232  
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The excellent instructions and pictures of the window module installation are posted in the KP Technologies Window roll up module install 3G Garage #I-097 thread.

I am going to close this thread now, so please go there if you have any more questions or comments. This will eliminate a lot of questions and comments that might be posted in this thread but would be unecessary if the poster was aware of the new thread.
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