94eg!

You forgot the timing belt is not the same as oem. Mitsuboshi (used in the Aisin kits) is the oe supplier for Toyota. Gates (called Unitta in Asia) is the oe supplier for Honda timing belts.

ekrekel

Fair enough, but I think Mitsuboshi and Gates belts are considered equivalent. The Gates water pumps on the other hand have been questioned. I know some have had no problems, but these things don't just come from nowhere.

musiclevelz5

I have done many of these and personally think the Mitsuboshi T belt is a better quality but that the Gates T belt is very good as well.

94eg!

ekrekel, I was one of those that had a problem with a Gates water pump in only 50k miles. I will never use one again. I would definitely only recommend the Aisin or OEM/Yamada pump.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

how many gallons of coolant for the 105k service? 2?

94eg!

yes 2 if you are taking off the water pump.

nfnsquared

Yeah, you won't use the full 2 gallons (at least I didn't), but you'll need 2 jugs.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

NFN...brushless, available for purchase NOW on prime amazon...I think I'm going with the DeWalt...only advantage the Makita has is the electric brake (no mention of it on the DeWalt)...but disadvantage is "ships within 2 months" and is $250 with NO battery and charger/case.

Thanks for the recommendation.

nfnsquared

Amazon Prime with battery for $300:

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X52TWA4

IIRC, it has the brake. He covers that in the video.

Edit: ^^^this is the detent anvil model. The model he reviewed is the hog ring anvil.

Here's the hog ring anvil (couldn't find it with just one battery):

no battery

nfnsquared

meh, damn edit timer.... only the IR has the brake. Not a big deal IMO.

I'd probably go with the hog ring anvil version of the DeWalt. You can buy DeWalt knock off 5 Ah batteries for ~$58. A DeWalt 5 Ah battery is going to run over $100.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, man...I read up on it and am okay with the detent anvil since it'll be legit, with battery and case and charger for $300...can't beat that. The makita had the brake too, but there aren't any in stock anywhere and I don't feel like WAITING, getting NON prime with no battery for only a $60 savings over the dewalt.

mlody

I greatly appreciate the excellent info! I have already placed the orders for these parts.

Thank you

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

Which one would you guy recommend? Thx

nfnsquared

The Gates is working fine for me...

94eg!

Honda OEM serpentine belts are either made by Bando or Mitsuboshi. The Mitsuboshi is definitely the nicest serpentine belt I've seen. I used one on my TL. It has a higher quality fabric-looking finish (exactly like OEM) vs the Gates basic rubber look I have on my Pilot. The Bando non-OEM belt I used on my brothers Civic has a cheap looking glossy finish. AutohausAZ has the 6PK2135 for $14 + shipping.

Link to Mitsuboshi 6PK2135M Serpentine Belt

Ebay has them for $24 shipped:

Link to mitsuboshi 6PK2135M | eBay

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

anyone else used Mitsuboshi belt?

i was on the other thread, most people used Gates and my mechanic also used Gates at his shop.

nfnsquared

FYI, the first Gates belt lasted 110K miles with no issue before I changed it, the 2nd Gates belt has been on for ~15K now, no issues. Whether you spend $19 shipped for the Gates or ~$25 shipped for the Mitsuboshi really means little difference when you're talking about 110K miles...

94eg!

Yes...Everyone has used the Mitsuboshi belt. It came on the car installed from the factory. Definitely the highest quality belt for the money. See line 11 at the following link: OEM Acura TL 2005 A/C COMPRESSOR parts

Here is the OEM Honda belt with the OEM part number on it and the Mitsuboshi logo:

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

The reason i asked was because the price difference between all the belts are minimal. i do not mind to pay a little bit more if it's quieter and with better quality. Wonder if Gates is quieter since lots people went with it.

nfnsquared

I didn't notice any change in noise between the Mitsuboshi and Gates....

t-rd

The timing belt is covered up, you don't really hear it. What makes a difference is using a better quality quieter serpentine belt like the Gaborback. The serpentine belt is exposed to outside element at all times.

nfnsquared

The serpentine belt IS what we're talking about. I've never run the Gatorback so I can't compare it to the OEM.

94eg!

Don't fall for all that aftermarket BS. Use OEM. Honda always picks the best stuff. If you have the opportunity to get OEM in an aftermarket box for less money, then it should be a no-brainer. Especially if the other aftermarket brands cost about the same. This is why I recommend the following for a 105k service...

Gates TCK kit (no water pump)
Aisin or Honda water pump (whichever is cheaper)
Aisin tensioner
Honda Coolant
Mitsuboshi Serpentine belt
NGK Laser Plat plugs (from advance autoparts w/ coupons)
Honda Thermostat

This is 100% same as OEM parts, most in aftermarket boxes.

mlody

someone earlier in this thread recommended Bando serpentine belt. It is under $15 on RackAuto which is over half the price compared to Honda OEM belt. I hope I wont regret putting this in instead of Honda OEM belt.

More Information for BANDO MFG. 6PK2135

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have a gatorback...which is noisy, they switched it for another one...I had oem originally obviously...

I'm convinced it's the tensioner pulleys. I swapped mine once...but now, if I don't drive the car for a while, it's squeaky until it warms up. If I drive it regularly, it doesn't happen.

nfnsquared

You'll be fine. IIRC, Bando is OEM for 2008.

94eg!

I'm sure the Bando will be fine. The only thing that bugs me about them is that their aftermarket version looks very different from their OEM one.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

Mitsuboshi



this is the best price for a serpentine belt i found so far.



you can also order the type 2 coolant to qualify for free shipping

94eg!

^AutohausAZ is a great seller. Great customer service.

-Sean

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's great to know...add it to my arsenal of websites for car stuff!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Round 2: Valve Adjustment

Broke it down, since timing service has been done to this car already.

DSC_3822 by rock star, on Flickr

nfnsquared

I see your schwartz is longer than mine I'm going to have to find one of those. Where'd you find that?

In for details on changes between #1 and #2!

I've been putting off valve adjustment #2, need to get it done. Been about 15K since TB change #2 (228.5K total miles now).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LMAO, you mean the feeler gauges? I bought them on amazon a while ago! They come straight, I bent them to how I felt I could get around stuff. Shorter ones would probably be best!

Well, I kinda cheated cause this round of valve adjustment was done on my NEW (to me) TL-S...and it runs nice and silently! Followed our original convo though and did .008 and .013...

I'd say lessons learned for this go around:
ONLY use your thumbs to press the spark plug gaskets in...

and even palming with a 1/4" ratchet...I managed to strip out one of the IM upper cover bolts Damn magnesium!

Also, I HIGHLY recommend you split this job up...tackling THIS AND the 105 TB service was super daunting. I like doing this and then waiting a few months so you're only digging into the SIDE of the motor.

yenracer

Awesome write up. After reading this thread and researching countless hours on this job, I think I have the balls to tackle this. I have a 07 and a couple of months back I had to replace the radiator and I change the spark plugs already. I'm no mechanic but just like to work with my hands. Any tips or pointers from pros here regarding this job. I bought the car 2 yrs ago with $60k and I am at $105k and going to go on a 600 mile road trip soon so I don't want to be stranded on the road. I don't think water pump and timing belt was ever changed.

i wish I had a buddy to help me out but looks like I'll be flying solo on this.

What at are the essentials stuff I need to do this job? I don't mind spending the extra money for genuine parts.

much thanks to all for your insight.

94eg!

The best tip would be to break loose the crank pulley bolt 1st. If you can't get that bolt off, there is no point doing anything else. You would just be wasting your time.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

This thread is full of tips.

but yes...get that CP bolt off!

nfnsquared

Print out the entire thread, grab a 6-pack and read through it end to end while circling all the excellent tips. There are plenty...

candrews

+1 to the crank pulley. I ended up having to heat mine with a small torch (the kind they sell for sweating copper plumbing pipe) and then used a 4' piece of black gas pipe (so it won't bend) on the breaker bar. Also a small block of wood under the bar to keep it all straight. Read the entire thread. And give yourself plenty of time. I have an extra car so spent a couple of hours every night over the course of a week. Went well and replaced a motor mount, plugs, and a few other items.

mgfloTLS

I bought the OEM kit a while back and didn't have the balls to DIY for my TL-S. Kind of glad I didn't after reading this as inexperienced as I was back then... fast forward to today reading through it again after tinkering with an S2k -> Stealership banked on me. So extra kit available!