With the camber kit on the front, and going to a *real* suspension shop that handles a lotta dropped cars to do the alignment, I think this should be the fix. I just replaced the front with the same Yokohama AVS tires. The rears have 7k miles on them, so I can get away with just getting a pair. I'm really liking the new Koni's btw. My fillings are a little loose, though.

 

that bumpy huh? are the shocks adjustable?

 

where is this suspension shop?

i need to have something in the back looked at, my shit is fucked up, and has been fucked up forever.

 

I'm gonna reserve judgement for a week, but it's a LOT stiffer than stock. It handles a lot better in hard cornering from my limited time with them--much less plowing.

I got Koni Yellow Sports, which are adjustable. I set each one to the exact midpoint, as recommended by some guys on here. The fronts are easy to adjust (obviously), but the rears are tuff to get cuz of the back seat removal issue.

 

I went to Stagner's Suspension Specialists. They're on Cooper Rd in Arlington. They do the IR alignment dealio, and handle a lot of dropped cars. The place that installed my shocks/camber kit sends all their cars to them, so I went there.

 

so if it's too bumpy it's not like you wasted your money, you can just adjust them to be a little softer?

 

Yep, that's the plan. It's pretty cool having it so tight, but I don't think my :-* will like it so much. Luxury goes out the window when it's that stiff.

 

girls hate riding in my car

but they get in anyway

 

They get in anyway, and then they'll get Deez Nutz...

 

Just caught the weather... high of 53 on Sat!

 

woohoo!!! let's just hope it doesn't rain.

 

Alright alright... Let's hope for low humidity...

 

Congrats on the Koni's.

I need to think about replacing the shocks on the TL-S and was wondering if they were worth the $$$. Now that I have the "other" car, I was also wondering if I should go with a more stock stiffness or if the Koni's were still fine for daily driving...

I will wait and see how you do, DZ!!!

 

I wanna get some new shocks soon... I feel as if my ride is a bit bouncy. That's probably due to the fact that the Austin roads are beating them up with how crappy they are.

 

holy fuck, my car felt fast today....

i mean really fast, i love cold weather.

also, I love free alcohol.

 

yeaqh so did mine....

and where did you find free alcohol?

 

bring on the 1/4!

 

banquet for the dallas fort worth minority business development council eAwards.

well, it was 400 bucks a seat, but I didn't pay for it.


im skipping work today cause I ended up gettin' toated last night, wheres the party?

 

it better not rain tomorrow.

 

it's not looking good for a dry track.

 

Hey Ruf, why'd you choose Neo synth oil over the other options?

 

UP!

I was out for a spin yesterday and WOW! I bet if I had traction similar to the 24ths event I would have run 14.4.

Traction being the key word here. When I hit 2nd, it wasn't a chirp . . . it turned the tires completely.

And yes, the forecast is not looking too promising right now. They keep saying it will stay to our west and north, so just maybe.

Ruf

 

well if it's not a dry track we should meet up anywyas since I'll be coming back to town...

 

 

It had the highest "Falex" numbers, a test result that demonstrates the oils ability to protect under high loads. Only a couple of additives scored higher.

Lastly, their 5W-30 had almost identical viscosity to the 0W-5! This is HUGE as viscosity robs HP and MPG. Basically the thicker the oil, the greater the parasitic HP loss. That's why I've been running a mix of 0W-30 and 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my car. I has the same impact as running A lighter weight pully.

OPP! I gave away one of my secrets as to why I'm faster than the average TLS and hanging with you header guys. So keep this to our group, it's your advantage.

So based on how hard I run my car, wanting a "thinner" oil, but more protection, NEO oil was the only providing me the details.

Also, on another test for their Tripot XV CD additive that's in the NEO oil had the best metal protection rating of the lubricant additives tested.

I don't know how this stacks up to Amsoil or Royal Purple as neither one of these could produce the Falex test info I searched for.

So, the I'm switching to NEO, let the Matrix Revolution begin. :P

Ruf

 

And so it was answered!

 

what was that site again... i'm in need of a coolant change... i'd be interested in the neo stuff..

 

I'mma switch over at 30K...

speaking of which, I got my 30K for free they inspected everything for me for nothing. I can change and top off all fluids and tranny doesn't need to be changed since I changed it at 15K (though I wasn't supposed to change it until 60K). I can also change my radiator fluid myself and rotate my own tires. Finally I've got lifetime alignment so I'll just go get that done at Firestone.

As far as radiator fluids go, why did you use that Neo stuff Ruf? There's so many alternatives right? I'm gonna do mine in a few months. I'm at 25K now.

O yeah, and I'm gonna go change those air conditioner filters myself as well.

 

The first link is the distributor I used and the 2nd is the NEO home page.

http://bakerprecision.com/neooil.htm


http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/

Ruf

 

It's not cheap, but considering how often I change oil, it's not that bad either.

I change the filter every 5k and top off the oil, and do a full change at 7,500 or 10k depending on whether I've been or will be racing.

I always change the filter before a race meet and usually both. Last time (10/24) I just changed the filter. This time the NEO is going in.

I bought the 2.5 gal container of the 5w-30. TT&L was $102.28, and that's enough for 2 complete oil changes and enough for 2 oil filter changes. So roughly 20k miles I'm guessing or 2 years for my driving. That's $122.15 or $61.00 a year roughly. Or about .006 cents per mile. :P

For $60 a year, that's not really that much when you consider that those using conventional oils will change theirs every 3,000 miles. That's 3.33x over the same period and that's about $40 a year. So $20 a year is not really that bad.

I've already got the NEO antifreeze in with the other cooling mods.

Ruf

 

how do you change the fitler without draining the oil? and how do you get a container clean enough so that you can put the oil back in?

 

Nope, it's real easy. You just put a drain pain under the filter and unscrew the filter . . . a very small amount will run out . . once it stops (60 secs) wipe it clean and install new filter as directed. Check your oil and top off as needed and you're done.

You never actually drain the oil pan.

Since the filter hold about 10-12oz (depending on size) you don't need much. I usually just make sure it's 1/2 way between the 2 marks and that's good enough. Especially before race day. The I top off when I get back home.

Opp, another trick :P . . assuming on how this engine is designed, most cranks "splash" thru the oil pan and if you leave it a little low it won't do that. Again, more parasitic HP loss. But I don't recommend this beyond a race meet.

Ruf

 

this is the oil I ran... that stuff was GREAT!

apprently a lot of tracks use this stuff or royal purple...

http://www.le-inc.com/

 

Could it be, because your car IS realy fast. 13.975! :P


I still want that ride.

And the reason girls don't like riding in your car may have nothing to do with your CAR.

 

hell yeah! I'm gonna keep my Mobil1 in there for 10K miles from now on and change my filter every 5K. What do you guys think?

 

well boys... hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it looks like Sat is a bust...

http://www.weather.com/weather/detail/75119?dayNum=1

I know a lot of people don't like the weather channel, but they've never steered me wrong and according to their reports, humidity will be sky high and the chance of rain has sky rocketed from 30% to 70% in the morn and from 30% to 50% in the afternoon

:'(

 

Keep your Mobil 1 . . . I'm just a crazy gearhead playing around.

I'd change the filter out, and drain about another qt out of the oil pan. Just take off the drain plug and hold it to the oil controlling the release of oil and when you think it's close, tighten it back up.

Then top off with 1 1/2 qts of 0w-30 Mobil 1. That should do you until you next change.

Ruf

 

I just heard the weather report too. There's still an outside chance that Ennis is just far enough south that they'll be dry, but humidity will be up there.

So for me . . it's a weather check before I go . . . if there is rain down south of here, then :pee: on it :thumbsdn:

If it looks ok for Ennis, then the good news is the turn out should be light and we can run and run and run . . . until we have to tank up with some of that Sunoco 103 otane. :P

Ruf

 

that's what I do. Complete oil and filter change with amsoil 5w-30 every 10K miles, and change the filter every 5K.

 

well if tomorrow is a bust, there's a Fast Fri. on the 14th (full tree lights and times displayed), and there's an Ultimate day on Sat. the 22nd. (no times or lights )