BRAKEMOTIVE Drilled & Slotted Brake Kits - LOWEST PRICES EVER!
07-19-2012, 09:41 AM
#1201
Racer
Ha, I think I misunderstood a post earlier about the slots pointing backwards - backwards in relation to the car (like they're labeled) and NOT backwards in relation to how the rotors were labeled lol
Yeah the pads were a bit harder to slide in than normal, so Anil and I were also thinking that the pads were rubbing on the rotors because they weren't sliding properly.
Yeah the pads were a bit harder to slide in than normal, so Anil and I were also thinking that the pads were rubbing on the rotors because they weren't sliding properly.
07-19-2012, 10:26 AM
#1203
Racer
AH I think I just made it worse lol
I installed them opposite of what the rotors were labeled, so the slots are pointing towards the front of the car. So you were understanding correctly the first time, I just misread an earlier post and confused myself
I installed them opposite of what the rotors were labeled, so the slots are pointing towards the front of the car. So you were understanding correctly the first time, I just misread an earlier post and confused myself
07-19-2012, 10:30 AM
#1204
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Dave, again the direction of the slots shouldnt matter...
but if you want, we can flip them around....should not take a lot of time
but if you want, we can flip them around....should not take a lot of time
07-19-2012, 11:00 AM
#1206
I just got mine for the TL-S and they are 1 row 4 holes. Not sure how much better 20 holes can make the rotor be vs slotted only.
07-19-2012, 07:17 PM
#1207
Those of you with these rotors, how have they held up over time?
I've been reading a ton of the site recently and it seems a lot of people are complaining about the stock rotors warping easily? I'm not so sure I understand how the stockers are easily warped? It seems like they are a very solid chunk of steel and if they are warping that easily seems these would be easily prone to warping/cracking at the drill marks?
How are the pads? My major concern is not about stopping power, I know that is easily determined by tires and suspension keeping the car on the ground properly and getting a good grip.
I just wanna know if anyone has checked these for stress fractures/cracks?
anyone?
I've been reading a ton of the site recently and it seems a lot of people are complaining about the stock rotors warping easily? I'm not so sure I understand how the stockers are easily warped? It seems like they are a very solid chunk of steel and if they are warping that easily seems these would be easily prone to warping/cracking at the drill marks?
How are the pads? My major concern is not about stopping power, I know that is easily determined by tires and suspension keeping the car on the ground properly and getting a good grip.
I just wanna know if anyone has checked these for stress fractures/cracks?
anyone?
07-20-2012, 07:34 AM
#1208
**The Catfish**
iTrader: (11)
i have had mine now for 6 months i believe. no stress cracks, warping, or any bizarre noises of any kinds and still have more power and less dust than the stocks. The only thing i had happen that was in no way the fault of the pads and rotors was the pressure plate on the side of the brembos came loose and was dragging on the inside of the wheel. That was my fault or a fluke but put it back in place and is just fine.
07-20-2012, 05:40 PM
#1209
Sean, I PM'd you the other day no word back yet... Looking for a quote for the same set up as what's posted in #1173 rockstar... I need both front and rear rotors, for an 06 TL AT. Do you have the calipers too???
07-21-2012, 12:56 AM
#1211
alright so i thought i'd give my review/experience with my recent order from brakemotive.
ordered 2 front/2 rear drilled slotted rotors with pads all the way around for my 2007 acura tl type-s. OEM's were original and had about 46k on them, so i felt that it was time to change them.
ordered on a monday, delivered on thursday. fast shipping and good communication. so far so good.
install was straightforward. a buddy and i followed some DIY instructions on the forum, and knocked out the job in about 2 1/2 hours. we also bled the calipers/master cylinder and repaced with motul 5.1 fluid.
ok onto the review. after the install, i went for a drive to bed in the new pads. followed the instructions that came with them...5 moderate to aggressive stops from 45mph to 5mph without letting the brakes cool. i then did the same thing from 25mph to 5mph with less aggressive stops allowing them to cool in between stops. that's it.
i drove around a bit more afterwards just to make sure everything felt right. it does. pads bite hard, no noise, no squealing, no nothing. very smooth. i could not be happier with my purchase. they do exactly what they're expected to do and look great behind the wheels.
i would recommend these to anyone looking to replace their current setup.
here are some pics from the install.
very well packaged in 2 boxes
2 fronts/ 2 rears/ pads
3 500ml of motul 5.1 fluid.
out with the old...
in with the new...
ordered 2 front/2 rear drilled slotted rotors with pads all the way around for my 2007 acura tl type-s. OEM's were original and had about 46k on them, so i felt that it was time to change them.
ordered on a monday, delivered on thursday. fast shipping and good communication. so far so good.
install was straightforward. a buddy and i followed some DIY instructions on the forum, and knocked out the job in about 2 1/2 hours. we also bled the calipers/master cylinder and repaced with motul 5.1 fluid.
ok onto the review. after the install, i went for a drive to bed in the new pads. followed the instructions that came with them...5 moderate to aggressive stops from 45mph to 5mph without letting the brakes cool. i then did the same thing from 25mph to 5mph with less aggressive stops allowing them to cool in between stops. that's it.
i drove around a bit more afterwards just to make sure everything felt right. it does. pads bite hard, no noise, no squealing, no nothing. very smooth. i could not be happier with my purchase. they do exactly what they're expected to do and look great behind the wheels.
i would recommend these to anyone looking to replace their current setup.
here are some pics from the install.
very well packaged in 2 boxes
2 fronts/ 2 rears/ pads
3 500ml of motul 5.1 fluid.
out with the old...
in with the new...
07-23-2012, 12:18 PM
#1216
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someone is ripping you off !!!Rotors are toast??? care to shed more details? how long have you had em, your driving habits? what happened?
07-24-2012, 09:14 AM
#1218
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^^^ umm again more details....
my old rotors went for 90K miles and are still going.... (they seem warped but am not sure)....
so how many miles did you get off these rotors ?
my old rotors went for 90K miles and are still going.... (they seem warped but am not sure)....
so how many miles did you get off these rotors ?
07-24-2012, 09:34 AM
#1220
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^^^ hahaha thats relieving !!!
07-24-2012, 12:42 PM
#1221
BRB..Shifting!
I have close to about 74,8xx miles on them. front pads were changed before I bought the car last year at 65,xxx miles. Back pads still has good amount of meat left, but I'm gonna swap all 4 pads out. Rotors are really thin, I just daily drive my car that's it.
07-24-2012, 12:45 PM
#1222
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^^^ Yeah SICK -TLS really solved this for me LOL....i thought you had the brakemotive rotors and you toasted them....
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07-25-2012, 10:07 AM
#1226
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when i got the RB (Racing Brake) brake pads, they specifically said not to use any shims as it might mess up the brake pedal feel....am thinking of going shim-less....
07-25-2012, 02:01 PM
#1230
Intermediate
Hey everyone. I'm getting a complete kit for my 04 TL. Should I also change my brake lines to SS brake lines while I'm at it? I hear they are a pain to install and there are no benefit?
Can someone enlighten me regarding this?
Can someone enlighten me regarding this?
07-25-2012, 02:05 PM
#1231
**The Catfish**
iTrader: (11)
i dont like ss lines only because you really cant inspect them for wear or stretching like you can with oem lines. I had a ss line rupture on me and i can tell you it was one of the scariest things i went through on my old maxima. i never really noticed a difference between the ss line and the rubber either i just replaced them because the fitting started to leak and the shop up the road made ss lines in house. i wouldnt do it, like i said, but thats my 
07-25-2012, 02:38 PM
#1233
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^^^ WOW
now am scared....I have the SS brake lines and they seem to be doing well....
install is a pain but simple....just make sure to inspect that there is not much tension on the brake lines after the install....rotate the steering side to side and ask someone to check for tension and interference....
EDIT: but but but, there is no need to change em....as SICK said, i did not notice any difference in braking/stopping power as well....the pedal might have firmed up a little bit but not something that i would spend $$$ on....i got em for a good deal hence bought em....
now am scared....I have the SS brake lines and they seem to be doing well....
install is a pain but simple....just make sure to inspect that there is not much tension on the brake lines after the install....rotate the steering side to side and ask someone to check for tension and interference....
EDIT: but but but, there is no need to change em....as SICK said, i did not notice any difference in braking/stopping power as well....the pedal might have firmed up a little bit but not something that i would spend $$$ on....i got em for a good deal hence bought em....
07-26-2012, 10:21 AM
#1235
how many miles should these rotors be good for? bought mine a little over a year ago, put about 18k miles on them.... took car in for service the other day bc of vibration when slowing down from highspeed and they said they rotors were warped and below spec where they could be resurfaced.
do i just need to buy new ones?
do i just need to buy new ones?
07-26-2012, 10:23 AM
#1236
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places usually charge $30 to turn the rotors....so you will end up spending $120....might as well spend another 30 bucks and get a full new setup....
about how long the rotors should last, i will leave that to the folks on here who have had this setup for a while
about how long the rotors should last, i will leave that to the folks on here who have had this setup for a while
07-26-2012, 03:33 PM
#1237
The rotors life really depends on what pads you use, if you use pads that are harder like ceramic or metallic the rotors will get worn faster than if you use semi organic pads. Of course the pads last longer if they are harder... For the price I really don't think it's worthwhile to have them resurfaced but there really should be enough thickness left after going trough 1 or 2 sets of pads on them.
Edit: you can take the measurements of the rotors to know if they are thick enough yourself, they will take very little material off when they resurface them and probably told you they weren't thick enough just because drilled/slotted rotors are tough on the tools when you work on them.
Edit: you can take the measurements of the rotors to know if they are thick enough yourself, they will take very little material off when they resurface them and probably told you they weren't thick enough just because drilled/slotted rotors are tough on the tools when you work on them.
Last edited by mdrolet77; 07-26-2012 at 03:36 PM.
07-28-2012, 11:03 AM
#1239
Instructor
Chris,Here is an updated pricing chart:
[b]1999 - 2003 TL & TL Type S/B]
Front Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $89.99 SHIPPED!*
Rear Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $105.99 SHIPPED!*
Rotors and Ceramic Pads F&R - $145.00 SHIPPED!*
2004 - 2008 TL
Front Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $89.99 SHIPPED!*
Rear Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $105.99 SHIPPED!*
Rotors and Ceramic Pads F&R - $145.00 SHIPPED!*
2007 - 2008 TL-S/6MT
Front Rotors & Ceramic Pads $140.00 Shipped!*
Rear Rotors & Ceramic Pads $105.00 Shipped!*
Front & Rear Rotors & Ceramic Pads $220.00 Shipped!*
2004 - 2008 TSX
Front Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $89.99 SHIPPED!*
Rear Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Pads - $105.99 SHIPPED!*
Rotors and Ceramic Pads F&R - $145.00 SHIPPED!*
*Shipping is free on all orders in the contiguous 48 states ONLY! Please call for shipping rates to AK, HI, PR
I haven't been on this forum for 2 years and now just getting back in since I'm not 100% happy with my brakes so sorry if I got a bunch of noobish type questions. Appreciate any help.
First, does the brake fluid really make a difference in performance? In searching the threads, everyone talks about Motul. Where do you buy it from and what do you feel difference wise? I have 52k miles and never changed the brake fluid.
Second, my brakes have been starting to squeak. It's only when I back up at slow speeds, but it's a really loud, high pitched noise. I have Racingbrake pads from Heeltoe that I put on 2 years ago with stock rotors. They only have 7k miles on them. I've tried brake cleaner, but it hasn't fixed the issue.
07-28-2012, 01:40 PM
#1240
Desert Life Sucks!!
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Mine have been holding up fine with no rust or noises.
I agree it is just as cost efficient anymore just to replace rotors than turn them.
Unless you have a 90-97 accord then changing rotors was a PITA.
The oem brake lines and clutch line is fine for the first 10-12 years. The heat from brakes/motor and just general wear can start to have effects on the rubber. When that happens it stretches more and if a serious driver you will notice pedal fade.
I am a firm believer in SS lines as the teflon inside is usually stronger and more resistant to the brake fluid and doesn't stretch under pressure.
Thats strange you had one break, but like everything guess it happens.
I replaced my stock rotors at 32k miles but only because I wanted to and didn't need to. I still have the stock rotors in the boxes. I threw the pads away.
I agree it is just as cost efficient anymore just to replace rotors than turn them.
Unless you have a 90-97 accord then changing rotors was a PITA.
The oem brake lines and clutch line is fine for the first 10-12 years. The heat from brakes/motor and just general wear can start to have effects on the rubber. When that happens it stretches more and if a serious driver you will notice pedal fade.
I am a firm believer in SS lines as the teflon inside is usually stronger and more resistant to the brake fluid and doesn't stretch under pressure.
Thats strange you had one break, but like everything guess it happens.
I replaced my stock rotors at 32k miles but only because I wanted to and didn't need to. I still have the stock rotors in the boxes. I threw the pads away.
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