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Our RDX will be traded in for one of the new type S models. I think the design language is right where I hope it will be after looking at this concept accessories rdx.
Nice man, I like the all white theme! We went for an all black theme, also have a black Accord 😃
This was my daily for the last 13+ years, hardly gave me a bit of grief. Now it gets to rest a little and split duty with the TL
'04 Civic Si, EP3
Been years since I got on here. Amazed to see it stillllll going.
Was talking over Snapchat with Eric about doing a J37/J35 Build on the TL with a CT Engineeing/Comptech Supercharger and Methanol once my TL gets back out of hiding. Went through the Marketplace to see if one might be sitting and waiting. No luck.
Nice man, I like the all white theme! We went for an all black theme, also have a black Accord 😃
This was my daily for the last 13+ years, hardly gave me a bit of grief. Now it gets to rest a little and split duty with the TL
'04 Civic Si, EP3
Really nice! Hondas will treat you good if you take care of them. Post your accord too!
Really nice! Hondas will treat you good if you take care of them. Post your accord too!
Indeed! Completed the full 100k maintenance with my father-in-law a few months ago on the Accord and she's running great. Stock '12 EXL-v6 that gets all the family duties, not much to look at either so here is a driveway family picture.
I follow a few of you guys on IG that I've come across. My profile name is the same as here, not too many car pictures on it yet. Wife seems to get jealous when I start posting multiples of the TL 😂
I need a legit camera again, cell phone pics are so grainy and over sharpened. But until I can get the front lip I'm relying on photo edits to spice things up.
After the world recovers from our current state, maybe we can all get together for a local CLT photoshoot or something, would love to meet up sometime. Hope everyone is in good health and has what they need to be safe!
Good news this allows me to break the 500whp mark and cruise up to 700whp mark. Plenty of play and potentail and can play games with alot of cars out there.
Only thing I'm trying to figure out is why nobody uses the J37. Everyone uses the J35A8 out of the TLS or the KB1 RL. I'm trying to figure out why. I do know the J37 has an Oil Burn/Consupmtion and also decresed fuel economy. Obviously fuel economy is not a major priority with a build. But the Oil Burn/Consumption would be of concern. I am thinking that with a resleeved block and a built rotating assembly, the oil consumption issue would be addressed or atleast improved on. Thats all I can think of.
Other thing I can think of is that the J35 is more supported than the J37 aftermarket wise.
Last thing I can think of is that the J35 and J37 share the same block but just have a different Stroke length due to the need for more low end torque due to being in the MDX/TL.
J35A8
2004-2008 Honda Legend KB1
2005-2008 Acura RL[14]
2007-2008 Acura TL Type-S[15]
Displacement: 3.5 L; 211.8 cu in (3,471 cc)
Bore and stroke: 89 mm × 93 mm (3.50 in × 3.66 in)
Power: 286 hp (213 kW) at 6200 rpm[16]
Torque: 256 lb⋅ft (347 N⋅m) at 5000 rpm[16]
On the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 2005, 2008 and 2009.
Based on quick math that makes 9.58:1 Compression ratio for this engine.
J37A4
2009-2014 Acura TL SH-AWD
Displacement: 3.7 L; 223.6 cu in (3,664 cc)
Bore and stroke: 90 mm × 96 mm (3.54 in × 3.78 in)
Compression: 11.2:1
Power; torque: 305 hp (227 kW) at 6300 rpm; 273 lb⋅ft (370 N⋅m) at 5000 rpm
Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC (intake and exhaust)
Fuel control: Multi-point fuel injection; PGM-FI
Comparing these facts and figures. The internals of the block are near identical aside from the Stroke and compression ratio. This should allow for more power and torque. Making for the J37 to be a better option. Unless a faster rotating assembly with a shorter stroke would make for better power.
Unless I'm wrong. Just digging at an idea. New to the idea of building an engine. Anyone with more insight?
Going to be painting my wheels aluminum soon. I like the color of them now but I want a different color and buying wheels....isn't an option right now. Lol.
Only thing I'm trying to figure out is why nobody uses the J37.
It's been years since I've tinkered with a J series, but after I sold my 3.6l J, I toyed with the idea of doing a boosted 3.7l build in a different chassis. IIRC, the bore on the 3.7 block is pretty much at service limit; there's not much more thickness left in the block unless you have it resleeved. The rotating assembly puts a ton of stress on the walls due to the longer stroke, especially when you add boost and high RPM.
@Shadow2056 Do you work up in the Northlake (Statesville Rd and WT Harris) area? I see a nice looking Silver 3rd Gen TL from time to time when I leave work and head home. Just wondering if that might be you?
I seem to recall him mentioning that he worked in the Rock Hill area.
It's been years since I've tinkered with a J series, but after I sold my 3.6l J, I toyed with the idea of doing a boosted 3.7l build in a different chassis. IIRC, the bore on the 3.7 block is pretty much at service limit; there's not much more thickness left in the block unless you have it resleeved. The rotating assembly puts a ton of stress on the walls due to the longer stroke, especially when you add boost and high RPM.
J35A8 is 89mm bore
J37A1-4 is 90mm bore.
1. So if that's the case the Sleeve would need to be milled 1mm already.
2. That would mean the difference displacement between the J35 and J37 is mostly reliant on the stroke length.
3. The additional stroke length, and service limit would be a significant reason behind the Oil issue.
Idea: Use the J35 Connecting rods, crank, bottom end, but machine the block and sleeves to 90mm Bore and use the J37 Pistons to create a low budget high compression motor.
Only thing that might be a factor is clearance for the valves/head. But if thats possible, might be interesting to try.
Here is a nice j-pipe that i have been meaning to install. Also have the pre cat deletes. Right now i have some gutted out e shift procats and a stock jpipe with a trust titanium exhaust for an evo.
Here is a nice j-pipe that i have been meaning to install. Also have the pre cat deletes. Right now i have some gutted out e shift procats and a stock jpipe with a trust titanium exhaust for an evo.
The PCD’s are gonna develop a nice release on the bottom end. But the rasp is gonna hit too. It’ll be interesting how it sounds with your single exit.
Linson if you do all that stuff to your TL you will be my hero. We can terrorize the streets.
Let me handle school and button up the other things i gotta do on the car and then.... only then can we start tearing engines apart and begin building a monster!
Keep your eyes peel for a CT Engineering/ Comptech Supercharger Kit. Trying to keep AC but also build some power.
Only thing I'm trying to figure out is why nobody uses the J37. Everyone uses the J35A8 out of the TLS or the KB1 RL. I'm trying to figure out why. I do know the J37 has an Oil Burn/Consupmtion and also decresed fuel economy. Obviously fuel economy is not a major priority with a build. But the Oil Burn/Consumption would be of concern. I am thinking that with a resleeved block and a built rotating assembly, the oil consumption issue would be addressed or atleast improved on. Thats all I can think of.
Originally Posted by civicdrivr
It's been years since I've tinkered with a J series, but after I sold my 3.6l J, I toyed with the idea of doing a boosted 3.7l build in a different chassis. IIRC, the bore on the 3.7 block is pretty much at service limit; there's not much more thickness left in the block unless you have it resleeved. The rotating assembly puts a ton of stress on the walls due to the longer stroke, especially when you add boost and high RPM.
I'm no 2nd gen J-series expert yet, so take this with a grain of salt. From the research I've done on my motor [J37a4] the oil burn issue seems to stem from the piston rings allowing bypass on some, but not all engines. Luckily it does not affect all J37's, my motor has almost 58K on it and I have't had to add any oil between changes (previous owner said he had no issues either). So, it is ether due to an incorrect install of the rings at the factory or it could be in combo to the engine not being sleeved. For the J37, Honda dropped the cast iron sleeves and elected to silicone coat the bores of the aluminum block [weight savings?]. For the 4G-TL and up, J35's have cast iron sleeves, also Honda started using some sort of cool DLC ion coating on those rings to reduce wear/friction and increase performance.
I wish my J37 was sleeved and the rings had that coating.
Andy "Gerzybear" also has a Rotrex kit for the J37 4G-TL that he has on his daily and recommends no more than 5-6lbs of boost on stock internals, still making ~400+ HP on pump gas. But you loose AC... I would love to have this kit but I don't think I can do w/o AC here 😁
Sean at P2R is also slowly developing J37 parts based on results he is seeing his his SH-AWD all motor drag car.
The J35 definitely has more support at this time and seems like the block can be pushed farther than the J37 with less internal tear up if you are looking to build a monster.
If you haven't see it yet, this thread over in the 3G-TL forum has a ton of awesome info on the J37 heads and what they may/would fit on... J37 Full VTEC Valvetrain
Last edited by bigwavedave25; 03-29-2020 at 02:28 PM.
Here is a nice j-pipe that i have been meaning to install. Also have the pre cat deletes. Right now i have some gutted out e shift procats and a stock jpipe with a trust titanium exhaust for an evo.
OOh, that looks like some RV6 goodness!
I want some RV6 PCD's, but I'm uncertain about our emissions testing... guess I could just replace every year with the stock cats before going in. Is that what you other guys do that have no cats?
I want some RV6 PCD's, but I'm uncertain about our emissions testing... guess I could just replace every year with the stock cats before going in. Is that what you other guys do that have no cats?
Bigger problem is gonna be the CEL on due to O2 Sensors being on. Most of your inspectors are morons and let 90% of stuff fly unless it’s obvious. (My windshield is blue tinted and they let me fly)
Dont waste your time with swapping them out. Get the HFPC. They do plenty, sound good and also free up some power, all without fouling o2 sensors. 👌🏼
I'm no 2nd gen J-series expert yet, so take this with a grain of salt. From the research I've done on my motor [J37a4] the oil burn issue seems to stem from the piston rings allowing bypass on some, but not all engines. Luckily it does not affect all J37's, my motor has almost 58K on it and I have't had to add any oil between changes (previous owner said he had no issues either). So, it is ether due to an incorrect install of the rings at the factory or it could be in combo to the engine not being sleeved. For the J37, Honda dropped the cast iron sleeves and elected to silicone coat the bores of the aluminum block [weight savings?]. For the 4G-TL and up, J35's have cast iron sleeves, also Honda started using some sort of cool DLC ion coating on those rings to reduce wear/friction and increase performance.
I wish my J37 was sleeved and the rings had that coating.
Andy "Gerzybear" also has a Rotrex kit for the J37 4G-TL that he has on his daily and recommends no more than 5-6lbs of boost on stock internals, still making ~400+ HP on pump gas. But you loose AC... I would love to have this kit but I don't think I can do w/o AC here 😁
Sean at P2R is also slowly developing J37 parts based on results he is seeing his his SH-AWD all motor drag car.
The J35 definitely has more support at this time and seems like the block can be pushed farther than the J37 with less internal tear up if you are looking to build a monster.
If you haven't see it yet, this thread over in the 3G-TL forum has a ton of awesome info on the J37 heads and what they may/would fit on... J37 Full VTEC Valvetrain
CLUTCH info bud!
Definitely didn’t find info on that sleeping difference. But that’s good to know.
Beautiful thing is if I machine the sleeves on the J35 to 90mm they will accept the J37 Pistons for a poor man J37 with J35 rods and Crank.
I think that’s the direction I’m gonna go with J32A2 heads.
Bigger problem is gonna be the CEL on due to O2 Sensors being on. Most of your inspectors are morons and let 90% of stuff fly unless it’s obvious. (My windshield is blue tinted and they let me fly)
Dont waste your time with swapping them out. Get the HFPC. They do plenty, sound good and also free up some power, all without fouling o2 sensors. 👌🏼
I already have Ktuner, so I'm not worried about the CEL. It's the melting of the cat core that still concerns me even with the HFPC's. Andy said he's seen it happen even with 300 count cores and recommended I get the PCDs over the HFPCs for that reason if I was to upgrade to complete my exhaust. Plus HFPC's won't fit with his Rotrex kit which I do want to leave that option open down the road.
I assume it's people running super rich trying to shoot flames or crackle tune with HFPCs that are having them melt or fail. Even though I'm getting a little older, I still love the pops, which is why I would go PCDs... 😂
03-11-2020, 08:38 PM
