I let my sons to tune his car walker lol

 

don't hit 7800 rpm

 

Never i just go 7500 cause i dont wnt the limit bother me lol

 

that the way i drive, u can see better if u put the quality on 1080p

 

For those of you who have tuned with vit:

I just got calibration 1.8 and on the way to work once I hit like 4500rpm it seems like I lose all my power. Did you guys have this issue? Should I contact vit before I do my catalog I closing a WOT?

 

He is working on your cam timing, he probably has it set to 0 advance at the moment. You'll see it get better as he dials in the correct advancement.

 

So will that hurt anything if I bring it to 5500 rpm? It starts moreike 3500 not 4500

 

Well, you are NA so there isn't too much you can do that's gunna really hurt your engine. It just at 0 cam advancement your valves open at the very bottom of the stroke, which is fine.. it just can't make as much power as it could. Now advancing timing tooo far can cause knock which is bad, and can hurt your engine.

All of this being said, drive moderately and only do the WOT pulls once during your log like VIT asks. The reason is so that if something IS wrong, you have only done it once, and the problem can be found and fixed before you DO break/harm something.

So no, don't bring it to 5500 rpm, try not to shift above 4k and just let VIT do his thing

 

I was thinking about this one the way home from work and I realized I said something wrong.. cam advancement means your cam closes at or near the bottom of the stroke( or inversely starts to open sooner), and cam retard will shut the valve after the compression stroke has already started. So this means with too much advancement your valve could start to open at or near TDC which could cause knock or valve/piston slap.

This article is really good at explaining

Cam Gear Tuning - Tuning Advance, Retard, and Overlap for Power


And check this GIF out..


http://www.richardwheeler.net/images...oke_Engine.gif

 

Backfire ����

 

Hello guys long time i don't post nothing here lol i got a question i just installed a ct engineering supercharger on my 2013 tsx and i already buy the ultimate tune from vittuned and they ask me to do a 20-25 minutes easy drive datalog do i need to have the plx wideband installed to do the datalog ?

 

yes, you should have it installed.. but also it won't do much good if you don't have it wired to the ECU for VIT to see. I made a DIY wideband installation thread. You can reference it.

Otherwise you will need to datalog wideband input on a separate unit and send both your datalog, and wideband log to VIt (which would seem like a hassle if you ask me)

 

YES finally! This is a glorious day for boosted people! Hondata updated software to allow VTC control during deceleration (or between shifts). I got the day off tomorrow and I think I am going to upload the new calibration with 25deg setting.

 

Bro, be civil.

 

hahaha

 

Much better guys, I recommend changing the angle for anyone who was having really jerky shifts during high load. I even noticed a big difference during engine braking upon letting off throttle. Much smoother now!

 

we might be the only two that care about this jerky jerkiness.

 

Prolly right, but we have done our duty! Now at least we can tell people to use the search function when someone asks about this 2 years from now haha.

I think the number of boosted guys on this platform are only in the 20's, and prolly half of those people have autotragics, and the other half don't even drive it cause show car. So I guess that just leaves you and me haha.

 

autotragic here

 

What car are you getting next? Or.. well, you are probs close to getting engaged now ehhhh?

 

I will try this if for nothing other than having the cam moving all over the place we don't have any problems with the automatics like you do

So we need to race, I will pull a full car length on you every time you shift (even if we were at the same power level) autos are for racing LOL, I'm amazed with my autotragic 3rd engine and over 40,000 miles beating it to death I can't believe it still works like new, my next plan is to get a high stall torque converter because I'm slow as a turtle until the middle of the intersection then all hell breaks loose
Thank both of you for getting hondata to add this

 

haha you would definitely win. But manuals are more fun, no doubt about it. You feel more connected to the car and the road. Autos will take over the world, especially with DCT becoming so prominent now.

Let us know what happens, (if anything) with your auto and this new setting.

 

Sounds about right haha. Ring hunting

 

I agree with ssjoeboe9 would be nice if we all worked as a team to help each other out with this tuning on this flashpro and how to understand all the values and the tables of the tunes i though that being part of this forum everybody was a team player but i guess not or maybe we can get together with each other i'm in N.J. and drive a 2007 RDX would be nice don't mean to come off this way but not everybody can afford the extra money on a tune Thank you

 

So I got my FP today and decided to datalog on stock (not sure if this even matters/showed 0 knocks on all cylinders even with WOT) and then did two runs with xtc's map conversion. Driving it, car feels good. I feel the gears hold a bit longer, but I know XTC mentioned that in his post as well. As far as knock count, my cylinder 1 has the highest. Now, I'll admit I have the ghetto washer muffler mod right now, so I'm assuming it's high because of this as I've been reading online and a lot of people say an exhaust leak leads to false readings. In a 25 minute drive, I had 110 on cylinder 1, 14 on cylinder 2 and 59 on cylinder 3, none on cylinder 4.

I had my cousin check it out with his laptop and datalog while we were driving and he just observed that the knocks seems to appear when I was letting off the gas. From what I saw in the log, its coming at 2600-3000 RPM.

To be safe, I'm gonna have the washers removed so there's no leak and will re-log again after that. I'll attach the log I have if anyone is willing to check it out! Thanks in advance.

Edit: Just checked the 12:59-13:00 mark, it jumped from 79-89 knock for cylinder 1 and 14 to 24 for cylinder 3. RPM dropped from 3400 to 2400. Just incase this info helps, idk.

 

Well if it helps, I asked Hondata if we will ever see a boost by gear option on flashpro and got a big negative. Said there is no usable output from our ECU Looking like i may have to go standalone ECU

 

Hondata has a great product but their customer service has gone to shit. All their focus has been on the turbo Civic and the SI. Even Vit had enough of their crap and he started selling the MoTeC ecu.
Good luck getting hondata to add any new features for us.

 

Hey Guys,

Got my car tuned from Vit last year. 0 mod and n/a motor. Wanted to just get it tuned for everyday drivability. Have had same issue with AT where it wouldn't even shift until 3K. I did post this issue on Hondata forum too but no as such solution from them. Finally did extensive data logging on stock factory calibration and realized that the throttle table for stock is different for AT. I cant talk about MT. Those of you have issue with AT, change Target Throttle table values as below and your AT will shift just fine.

TP table
Let me know if it works for you guys.

Thanks

 

To anyone in the midsouth looking for a tuner, Forest Luster out of Memphis, TN has been tuning k20 and k24 engines. I know he has been dealing with hondata for years on the side of all the other high end tuning he does. I saw on his instagram he was tuning a supercharged k24 civic the other day to a little north of 300hp. Not that that speaks for reliability, but at least you know there is someone else out there that is experienced and has a good name for tuning. After I get my mods and flashpro Im going to have him dyno tune and give me a final revision.

 

^good luck, and hoping you'll share the tune like most of us did

 

mods after or before Flash pro? i have a CAI only. or do i get all my mods and then tune it so i wont be wasting money on tune after tune?

 

ideally mods before the tune, like you said, to not have to spend on a re-tune

 

 

Carb version has its limitations, If I am not mistaken, it only allows you to flash pre-made calibrations, but not custom tune them. If this is the case, you would be better suited to simply have a reflash done by a Hondata dealer with on site reflash capability. A little inside track is that unless you tell your emissions tester that you installed Hondata, he'll never know. Also, some places simply do a visual check (cat and emissions parts in place), then a code scan, to ensure that there are no emissions related DTCs. Where are you?

 

 

 

 

 

damn.. he did it though. Made his passion into a full time opportunity with his business and then became highly skilled at what he did, so much so that MOTEC offered him an official position. That's the American Dream right there!