3FIFTY'07TL

Hey guys, so let me preface this by stating that although I am new to Acurazine, I've been on automotive forums for about 15 years and I prefer to answer more questions than I ask.

I have searched extensively, and although it is true that there are an infinite number of starting problem threads, there is no definitive one (unless I missed it), and most of them are dead ends- full of speculation, and worst of all no follow up from the original author as far as what the solution was to whatever scenario they were experiencing. I do need help, and I feel like whatever is wrong, it can't be that complicated. But I don't want to keep buying parts until I get it right, especially if I don't have to.

I just bought an Alabaster Silver 2007 Type-S 5AT about a month ago and I absolutely love driving it- but it has been a few days since I could start it.

I found a video on You Tube that replicates my issue exactly:

^ even in this example, people are speculating. In the end the original uploader's suggestion is to "push the clutch pedal harder" ... I have an Auto but I digress


The problem has had a progression ... it happened just once initially so I shrugged it off. Then another day I had to rotate the key between start & run 3-4 times before the starter kicked in. At this point I knew there was something real going on. A week ago it became a 2~5 minute tug-a-war of either going from run to start over and over, or turning the key on and off entirely until the starter would finally kick in to start the motor. Let me also state that at this point there would be occasions that I could jump in the car and start it first try. Which is why I was still trying to utilize the car. What can I say I like to gamble. A few nights ago by the grace of the Universe I was able to get it started after an 8 minute wrestling match between the car and I at work and get home. Now the car is in front of the house, and hasn't started once during multiple attempts over the last few days.

Due to the progressive nature of the problem, I thought the battery was going out and that the dealership I purchased from put a nice convenient surface charge on the battery and now it was reverting back to some type of state of dysfunction.

I bought a nEverStart from Walmart lol, Group 24F, 600 CCA (car had factory style Acura battery, Mar. '11/550CCA) and the issue has remained exactly the same.

I have both Key fobs, and the Valet, and the dash does not indicate an immobilizer issue (flashing green key not present). When the starter DOES kick on to start the motor, it starts the motor just fine without any audible strain or hesitation. Otherwise, when I turn the key to start- there is only a one single click sound, then nothing. Dash instrumentation illuminates brightly and does not dim during the process.


So now I'm wondering guys, with all the collective knowledge of the 3G TL at this point, are the different starting problems of the TL definitive enough to have established unique and specific solutions? Particularly the one I'm asking about. I'll have to figure something out at some point, I'm not going to just let my car sit inoperable, which is what a lot of these unfinished, open ended threads would imply their owners are doing right now, since resolution information is rare, or at the very least sporadic. And THAT's what makes SEARCH-ing such a PITA.




I apologize for the length but I'm trying to future-proof this post. That way a user can come here, read the description and determine whether or not they are experiencing this exact problem or something slightly different. Hopefully I or another Member can also provide the resolution, so we can have a full circle problem & fix solution right here.

polobunny

Check battery and alternator with a multimeter for the sake of it, but this sounds like a starter issue. 99.9% sure. Either you an refurb your starter or just change it entirely.

nfnsquared

starter

3FIFTY'07TL

Thanks guys, I'm going to try a few things in a little bit, but perhaps it is the starter. I'll try jumping it to eliminate batteries all together, even though I have a brand new one. Tapping on the starter, and finally hot wiring directly to the starter. Just have to do some homework first to figure out which post to attach to.

1995hoo

If the alternator were dead, your dashboard lights probably wouldn't come on (the alternator in one of my other cars died a few years back and nothing would work). Looks like the starter.

3FIFTY'07TL

Of course, it's raining now, and I will need to get under the car. I'll give you guys an update when I have one.

flyromeo3

bang on the starter with a bar or something and then see if car starts.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Agree with above, starter.
Check with a multi-meter, or as I've said before, put headlights on and try and start, if the lights stay bright starter/starter circuit, if they dim greatly, battery/charging circuit.

NBP04TL4ME

I'm going with the consensus and vote the starter. You might also want to try to start with the gear selector in neutral in case there is a bad switch, but this isn't likely.

csmeance

It could be a faulty ignition switch because the 2007+ models are supposed to continually crank until the engine starts with 1 turn of the key.

jimmyfu

Not sure if this has been referenced before, but I found this DIY video. Whole playlist of DIY repairs as well:

mtiaz

+1 on the faulty ignition switch, I've had two friends with this problem (07 Accord & 08 CSX-S) and it was the ignition switch

EddieOnAZ

Someone said it above: lightly tap on the starter. Use a piece of wood or the palm of your hand if you can get it there. I wouldn't use a metal object though. My cousin's VW sat for some time then it didn't want to start back up. Hit it a couple times with a piece of wood and it hasn't acted up since.

nfnsquared

It could be the ignition switch, but usually a bad ignition switch will cause an under voltage at the starter cut relay, giving the "clicking sound" at the driver's side kick panel.

The OP's video didn't have the "clicking" sound, so that's why I say starter instead of switch. Could be wrong, but so far the evidence leads me to say starter....

3FIFTY'07TL

Ok guys, tried a few things. No start in Neutral. No start with Starter tap. I did run a jumper to the Starter directly from the Battery. When I did this I heard the same type of click I heard from the driver's seat, only louder. It might be a problem with the solenoid- but it's all one unit anyway. I will try one last thing, tapping it while someone else tries to start it at the same time- since I had to go back and forth being by myself- but other than that it looks like I may be ordering a starter.

Thank You guys for all your help and suggestions thus far. I will make sure to post when the issue is completely resolved!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

did any one mention the starter, yet?

nfnsquared

crabman is crabby today

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

more like trying to be funny.

3FIFTY'07TL

Maybe once or twice lol ... had the motor fired up with the jumper lead I would have moved on to the relay. I wasn't leaning toward the ignition switch because I've had a bad switch before in a fox mustang and that would cause it to die while running, which is the main characteristic of that particular problem- a bad ignition switch doesn't discriminate and will screw you during any state of operation. Now that I'm focused on the starter I'm seeing just how big of a problem it has been, historically speaking.

3FIFTY'07TL

The Suspect:




The Replacement:




Car starts right up now like a Champ! I'm a little nervous that I might have over tightened the mounting bolts for the starter but with any luck I won't be going back in there for a long time. I did notice a failed (cracked) rubber motor mount bushing(?) underneath the air filter box so now I'm aware of that. Besides that it was a fairly quick & painless process. The problem is solved Thanks again guys for those of you who popped in and offered help!

nfnsquared

Source and price of the replacement?

3FIFTY'07TL

Good ol' Rock Auto, 118.79. No core. Mitsubishi made like OE, all new :thief:

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

get ready for your car to sound different on start up.


when I replaced mine, i was like...."well that's gay, it doesnt sound like the honda start up any more."

thoiboi

nfnsquared

If we're going to make this the definitive starter thread, then this DIY rebuild link should be part of the thread. It's not a full rebuild, but for ~$35 it seems to solve the "no start due to failed/worn contacts" issue:

Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

3FIFTY'07TL

Thanks for that ^ ... and yeah my situation was a no start, no crank, just for reference. Single "click" sound, not from the kick panel but from under the hood @ the starter / starter solenoid.

Generally speaking, if you can turn the motor with the starter, everything is working up to the starter, and you might be looking at fuel or spark issues. A crank / no start situation. The fuel pump has apparently been an item to scrutinize on the TL.

If you have a faulty ignition switch, you may have trouble starting, the engine may die out while idling, or worse yet the engine may die out while driving. Also when this occurs all your interior lights and instrumentation will go dark. What I was able to dig up is one way to test the ignition switch is while in a no start situation, turn the key to the on position (position III), and quickly release the key letting the spring mechanism "flick" the key back to position II, and what may happen is the instrumentation will go dark like your battery is completely dead. Fiddling with the key afterwards brings the instrument cluster back online. Not sure what causes these to fail, but in my Mustang the ignition switch had two halves, and they would start to separate due to a design flaw, and the electrical connections would lose contact.


I did notice that lol ... I didn't have the signature woob woob woob anymore. At least I think it's supposed to be a three chug