RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Take it some place else. That sounds like a lot.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

This is basically what I was told when I took mine in a couple weeks ago. Dealership told me that the rips are very minor. They showed me another car that was on the rack at the time and the tears on that car was about twice the size.

I have a nagging vibration at 75+ mph. My friends and family say to just drive below 75.

The handling and steering is fine with the car. Suspension feels stiff. The alignment is good. All the wheels are straight, tires are new and they were road-force balanced last time. Still....minor vibration at 75+.

This is really my only complaint about the car at this time. So I am learning to live with it. One day I will get tired of it and get a 2012 Sonata 2.0T with Blue Link.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Those control arms are just big solid very heavy steel pieces. I don't see how it would go bad aside from the bushing. My guess is that your bushings are shot and the dealership wants to replace the whole LCA. That is what all the dealerships want to do.

For those looking to replace their bushings, I had a very hard time finding a shop that would press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. What seems simpler is to find some old control arms and take them in to a machine shop to replace the bushings, then you can just go into any shop and they'll be able to swap out the control arms.

If anyone in the Chicago wants a set of LCAs with bad bushings, let me know:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/local-only-il-wi-mi-used-2006-lcas-lower-control-arms-831965/


I put the 2007-2008 bushing into my 2004. Been running on it for a month now. All is well.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I don't know if I noticed it or not, but seems to be holding up just fine for me as well. I stuck with our original bushing. Also, with a life, removing the LCA was most of the work...machine shop nearby charged $10 to press out old and press in new per side. Wish i had known that before wasting 2 hours trying to do it with a vise myself.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

I am going to buy these bushings the 07s since my LCAs r done!

hopefully they wont charge me much to install locally...

mb1976

I got mine checked out today during the B12 service and the dealer told me I have a very small hair line crack which is not a cause for concern but maybe need attention in next 20k or 30k. Currently my car ( 06 TL Base) is sitting at 81k

lucnex

iTrader: (3)

If you want a shop in Chicago area who will swap out your bushings go visit Drew at The Pit Shop Garage....he is located about 45 minutes North of Chicago in Libertyville....I paid 220 for parts and labor to get my old bushings swapped out.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^that's not a bad price including the work involved.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Yup. That's where I went. Prior to finding the Pit Shop I went to several other shops/dealers who said they couldn't replace the bushings and wanted to replace the enitre LCAs.

MLue1

I R&R the bushings on my TL last January, here are some pics. I did the entire R&R with the LCA still attached, I did not disconnect the ball joint. Use these instructions with caution, I bear no resonsibility for any damages to your car or yourself.

Removed the bolts that hold the bushings and shock mount. Grab rotor, lifted the suspension until the LCA is parrallel to the "ground", then pulled the assemble towards me, this enables you to pull the LCA out of the mounts. Be careful as you will be pulling the drive shart and extending the universal joint near its limit, the boot will deform with the extension. After the arm is free you can push the drive shaft back in a bit to relieve the pressure on the boot.

MLue1

Here are some of what I did to make pressing out the bushings go smoother. Use a dental pick or fine screw driver to clean out the area where the bushing and the LCA meet, spraying some PB Blaser will help to break up and clean out the dirt as well.

Before installing the new bushing, clean out the bushing area with sand paper to remove the dirt and corrosion, apply a light coating of axle grease to the mating surfaces. Align the new bushing in the LCA with the alignment mark that you made before pressing out the old bushing. Gently tap around the edges of the bushing to evenly seat the bushing in the arm. Install the bushing tool and press in the new bushing, go slowly and stop to ensure that the bushing is aligned and is going in straight, stop when the bushing is in the same position in the LCA as the old bushing.

Grab the rotor, lift and pull the hole assembly towards you, this will extend the universal joint once again and line up the LCA to slip back into the bushing mounts. Once in position, have a helper install the long bolt and nut for the compliance bushing, completely tighten torque the bolts only when both bolts are in place.

Jaster

Where did you get the Bushing Tool and how much does it cost?

MLue1

Check out page 14 of this thread for the story.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...707888&page=14

There are a few places that sell the tool but it is made by the same tool manufacturer.
http://www.getmetools.com/schley.html

Here are some additional notes that may help as well:
I've done both sides on my car and friends as well, it may not be as easy as the instructions may indicate for some people. The more you do it the faster you get and the easier it seems, once the wheel is off the ground. One thing that is for sure is taking the LCA out goes fairly quickly, getting everything lined up bolted up is a bit harder and takes longer than taking things apart. You have to lift and shake the suspension a bit to help things along. It goes better if both wheels are off the ground so you can manipulate the steering/suspension a bit. A large rubber mallet helps to get the shock to fall back into place, don't use a hammer as you can damage the shock housing. Since I don't have a ball joint tool I don't know if it would be easier or not.

Pat04TL

+1 jhumbo. Currently burning the inside edge of my new right front tire even though alignment was done when tires were bought 4000 miles ago. Was told earlier this summer both bushings torn (post #623). No handling issues, but with uneven tire wear, it's time to get serious about replacing the compliance bushings. Will pick up the pittman puller from Harbor Freight, the '04 bushings from Honda, and go with a local shop to press 'em. Alignment is already pre-paid from a prior deal. Beats the heck out of what the dealer told me which was (you guessed it) "to replace both LCAs for about $600".

Thojmoto

i saw that there is a recall on an item they are calling the LCA ball joint, is this the same item?

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

The only balljoint I'm aware of is the upper ball joint attached to the Upper control arm and the Lower ball joint attached to the Knuckle. Can you post up some info on this recall please...

Also my dealership replaced both control arms. For those of you who are getting turned down.. just try another dealership. It basically comes down to when they call it into Acura to get approved for the claim.. the person that answers the phone is key. Some reps are leniant while others are sticklers. Keep in mind the dealership wants to do the work.. they get paid.. its just a matter of getting the approval from Acura when they call.

Thojmoto

Its on all the recall sites, says all 3g TL's. Front LCA ball joint: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/pr...ls/results.cfm

The recall was issued July of this year.

Hondaforlife954

I looked it up here is what it is on

• vehicle Make / Model:
  
  Model Year(s):
• ACURA / TL
  2004-2008
• Equipment Brand Name / Part No. or Model No.:
  
  Production Dates:
• NAPA / LOWER BALL JOINT
  Information not Available

• NHTSA Campaign ID Number:
  
  11E022000

• Summary:
  
  AFFINIA IS RECALLING CERTAIN AFTERMARKET FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER BALL JOINTS, NAPA PART NO. 2601662, THAT MAY HAVE BEEN MISTAKENLY INSTALLED IN CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2004 - 2008 ACURA TL VEHICLES DUE TO A MISTAKE IN A NAPA AND NAPA DEALERS' PARTS APPLICATION CATALOGUE.

• Consequence:
  
  MISAPPLICATION OF THIS PART COULD LEAD TO SEPARATION OF THE BALL JOINT FROM THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND COLLAPSE OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION, WHICH COULD POTENTIALLY CAUSE A VEHICLE CRASH.

• Remedy:
  
  AFFINIA IS WORKING WITH NAPA TO IDENTIFY ANY OWNERS THAT HAVE HAD THIS PART MISTAKENLY INSTALLED ON TO AN ACURA TL VEHICLE, AND WILL REPLACE THE PART FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 20, 2011. OWNERS MAY CONTACT AFFINIA GROUP'S WARRANTY ADMINISTRATOR AT 1-815-759-7757.

• Notes:
  
  OWNERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV .

Pat04TL

Looks like this recall isn't any help for us (but thanks for trying). It's for a NAPA aftermarket ball joint. Nothing to do with Acura themselves. Back to ramping up for the DIY...

HQTL6SPD

I have 60A urethane filled bushings if anyone is interested in something a bit stiffer & more durable. I had these fabricated for me, but never got around to installing them. The urethane used is very high quality product from mcmaster. Pm me if interested!

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Yup... this is a known issue already... here's the thread that almost killed one of our members... pretty scary..

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/fyi-aftermarket-moog-balljoint-k500117-beware-805131/

tyjones

So in the process of removing the LCA I inadvertently slid the drive shaft out and now I can't get it back in. Any ideas? Suggestions? I could really use some help. I am stuck. Thanks in advance. Any help will be very greatly appreciated.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

I still need to change my bushings should i even bother buying them if they might crack as soon as my car touches ground lol

DimwitRj

iTrader: (2)

I thought this was a defective design that came apart after installing? Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't these the same ones you said you wouldn't sell a while back?

HQTL6SPD

Sh** your right, I somehow did forget about the whole ordeal.. Getting ready for boot camp has me head spinning lately! Good Call

mateozzz

Thought I would just add a note to this really long thread. I replaced the two compliance bushings on my 06 at 70k. They had the tears as seen in the 1st post, maybe not quite as bad, probably been that way for 1-2 yrs. I finally got tired of the loose front end feel and had a local shop change them. $50 for the parts I bought myself, $160 for labor, $90 for 4-wheel alignment (time for one anyway). The change in feel was very noticeable, the car does not wander around on the road any more like a shopping cart with bad wheels. The tears were actually a little wider on the bottom of the bushing where I couldn't see than on the top so I should have gotten them replaced a long time ago.

I think the torn bushings also were causing a vibration in the braking, similar to warped rotors. Possibly the tears just exaggerated an existing slight warp, but it feels much better.

One thing that was interesting is that the cornering always felt good. I'm thinking that under a constant load the bushings open up and then are set so they are stable, but on the highway they would flex to one side or the other causing the loose feeling.

Oh well. Hope I don't see tears in the new ones for at least another 30k.

Slpr04UA6

^Thanks for the before/after review. I just ordered mine, and can't wait to change them out.

Dsrtne1

iTrader: (1)

I had the bushings replaced on my 04 last Friday. Dealer did it under an extended warranty I have through mercury insurance. I noticed at 70+ mph the wheel would shake. Got the tires rebalanced and realigned for free at the shop that I bought my tires at, nothing changed. I didn't even ask them to check these but when I had my car in for the timing belt service I told them if they see anything that could be replaced under warranty to go ahead and do it. These new bushings made a BIG difference. The wheel wobble is gone and now cruising at 80 mph is comfortable and smooth as could be.

VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

Add me to the list of torn bushings and I'm only at 60k miles, I had my UR pulley installed today and noticed my bushing was torn. I called Acura and they said it's covered under my AcuraCare warranty, they also said they'll check out the motor mounts and everything else that commonly goes wrong with the TL and replace anything else that is broken. Might as well!

VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

BTW, is an alignment needed after replacing the bushings?

Slpr04UA6

^yes

Patsfreak1281

So guys.i am looking to get a 05-06 TL...dealer is going to look at one at auction for me...but i am going to take it to my mechanic to have him look it over..if the bushings are junk..dealer should replace it..right? What are the odds they are torn..100%...say if the car has 80K on it?


Lucky i looked at this thread because i haven't heard of this issue

Patsfreak1281

I also have a vibration issue in my G35x..main reason why i am getting rid of it..but now that i see people complaining of more wobble/vibrations..idk

mateozzz

Its hard to say if they are just wearing out prematurely or if some of them are just out of spec, but definitely get them checked. If you are buying a used TL of that vintage there are a whole list of things that probably need to be done if you want to feel like you have a new car.

1. New coil overs if they are original, $800
2. Resurface front rotors, new fr pads, flush fluid, $200
3. Tranny 3x flush, $300
4. Power steering flush, $100
5. New tires if worn, $700

Then at 100k you'll be looking at $1.5-2k for the timing belt change (including water pump, pulleys, etc..., there is a recommended list of things), coolant flush, new hoses, spark plugs.

Then you'll be good for a while! Unless you want to paint it...

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, the second thread I'm bumping in the TL forum today...

So I put my apsecs on yesterday, God bless this weather lately, and noticed my compliance bushings are toast. I knew they were bad before but the symptoms have gotten stronger lately and I def want to set things right before I put a lot of miles on my nice newish tires.

So I've read all 17 pages of this thread. And the conclusions I came to are...

1) We pretty much all experience this design flaw
2) Remove LCAs yourself, purchase bushings yourself, have shop press them for you
3) Pittman puller is a God send for the balljoints
4) 04-06 compliance bushings are firmer (precision driving), 07+ inc type-s are softer (better ride)

Now what I'm still unsure of is, some reported the type-s bushings fail faster. Yet, I'm sitting here thinking....1) they had to of rethought these for the newer years, right? 2) wouldn't softer be better (more flexible = less chance of cracking) since these actually NEED to move so many directions?

I have a friend who is free all the time who can press these for me easily. While I'm down there are there any other bushings worth looking at?

For instance...#9 or #11? 2004 image btw...

94eg!

I would say screw it and buy the stiffer bushings. They made a world of difference in my Civic when I went with harder rubber in that position. I could actually feel the tires clawing at the road afterward.

The #11's tend to get squished over time. All the weight of the vehicle is transferred through that bushing. If you remove it and notice the rubber seems smashed and inner sleeve is offset to one side, consider replacing it. Don't expect to feel any difference. These will also get a little twisted if you lowered the car and never reset the bushings.

The #9 bushing should last a good looooong time provided your car is at stock ride height. If your car has been lowered, and that bushing was never "reset", then I would expect to find some tearing.

One of the MOST often overlooked steps of altering your ride height, is the resetting of bushings like these. When you lower the car, they become twisted and remain twisted at all times. It is necessary to loose the bolt (relieves the twist) and then re-tighten & torque it with the wheels on the ground. This sounds harder than it is (if you got long arms like me). Same goes for EVERY other bushing in the front & rear suspension that operates like this one.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

So basically if I'm lowered, I'm ordering bushings anyways, I'm taking it off and apart anyways, and taking it to someone who can press them for free, I might as well just shell out the small amount of cash and replace all of them.

Gotcha! Thanks!

94eg!

That is certainly one way to look at it.

Greggsg

HM.... I have an '05 and have been told that the compliance bushings on my TL are starting to "dry rot". This kind of took me by suprise living in South Florida....The dealer quoted my $690 to replace them.

at 105,000 I did the timing belt / water pump / oil change / front and side motor mounts for about $1100 at the dealer. the timing belt was on sail last month.

I just got my car back yesterday after having to replace the rack and pinion.

I still need to get a tune up and I assume eventually a clutch... anyone have price estimates on these?

Thanks,

Gregg

94eg!

$690 is laughable. The parts alone are $52 ($26 each). And that is your online cost from an actual Acura dealer. I would expect to pay about $100-200 for the work, plus $80 for an alignment.