The XLR8 Performance Engine Torque Damper is designed to reduce engine movement and therefore improve handling and traction. This will help reduce wheel hop, improve cornering and stability, and help the engine stay planted during quick shifts and launches. This kit includes everything needed to install the kit: damper, bracket, hardware, and additional bushings.



http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300876.aspx

 

Here is the review from the member who tested it for us:

Everything bolted up as I predicted, the installed was a success. The damper is length adjustable. It comes at shortest length in the box and needs to be extended for this installation. (Shown in pics)

I test drove the car pretty hard for 2 days after install; several trips and various road conditions each day (crappy pavement, slippery rainy weather, curvy mountain roads...)

* I tested a quick 0-60 onto a highway, the car felt perfectly solid the whole time, no longer felt like mounts were broken.
* I no longer need to baby my shifts while cruising to make them feel smoothe.
* Downshifting feel has also improved, rev matching has become super smoothe and easier to perform.
* Shifting while taking a corner feels much much more stable due to virtually no engine movement.
* Quick shifting at high rpm's now won't give passengers whip-lash.

I absolutely felt a difference with this damper vs my stock one. Moving from a complete stop now feels like it should, the car does exactly what you want it to do (take off smoothly). Getting out of first used to be a nightmare (especially up a hill), the rocking of the engine made the entire car kinda bounce a bit as if it had hydrolics up front. I actually tried to replicate that hydrolics bounce feel by pumping the gas at a low speed, but now it isn't possible (a good thing of course).

Any time the clutch is engaged or the instant the gas pedal is floored you will feel a huge difference before and after. I can now drive comfortably in traffic using 1st gear alone. Engine used to rock back and forth making it exremely annoying to stop and go multiple times. All in all, the car feels way better than ever, I'd even say better than when the 3G was new! I think it's ready for a Azine thread/full release! Feel free to use my review/pics to get it started.

 

Here are some pics related to the kit and for installation purposes. Keep in mind we included a shorter bolt so you do not need to use the poly bushing as a spacer like shown in the picture. The bushing is for the firmness of the ETD itself.

 

Manual Transmission TL



Automatic Transmission TL



I'm trying to study these pictures to figure out what bracket is needed to make the ETD work for the AT TL. I believe it's illustration #4 in the first pic. However, I haven't tested it on a AT TL so I'm not sure yet of what part is needed. The pics are a bit confusing.

 

Think this will preserve those 65 durometer engine mounts a little longer... I sure don't wanna pull the SC again to replace them.

 

It will definitely help. I didn't think it would be as effective as it is since the TL M/T already has a factory damper but the test-fitter swears by it. He will be posting up shortly I'm sure. The factory damper also begins to suffer from deterioration over time, just like any damper. What's nice about the damper we used is the resistance is based on the bushings used so you can change the bushings when they start to fail or install firmer bushings (which we include) for less engine movement.

 

Im confused bc if i buy the 75a motor mount wouldnt it also eliminate wheel hop, improve tractions, and stop engine movement? why would i need this extra? i have a MT too

 

2nd gen fitment? id like to order one if possible. i have cash in hand!

 

They don't show it exactly as-is on this illustration, but that engine bracket for the AT lacks the 2 threaded holes required for mounting the bolts on the bracket for the ETD. But its not too big of a deal, especially if your getting a set of new engine mounts anyway. If someone wants to convert, the part is pretty inexpensive from dealer. All 04-08 AT use the same engine bracket (which lacks the 2 holes needed), all MT use 50610-SEP-A10 (which is the part you need in order to use the ETD on an AT).

I had inACCURATE help me out, and he verified this in person a while back.

 

when this comes out for automatics I will def want to pick one up

 

Well the mounts don't eliminate wheel hop; they reduce it significantly.

It's similar to installing a j-pipe. The idea of the j-pipe is to increase hp/tq and exhaust flow; would that preclude you from installing a high flow third cat b/c you already installed the j-pipe? No, you would install both pieces to improve exhaust flow. So you would buy both the ETD and the mounts if you want to reduce engine movement as much as possible.

 

Right. I checked this for HQTL6SPD.

Pic below is from a 6MT



Pic below is from a 6MT




Hole #3 is there on the 5AT.

Hole #1 and #2 is NOT there on the 5AT. There is not even a raised boss in that location. I got under the car to get a good look.

I checked the schematics and I see that the 6MT and 5AT do have different engine brackets. So, that explains it there. The engine bracket for the 5AT is lacking the holes, whereas the seperate part number for the 6MT does have the holes.

50610-SEP-A10 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)

50610-SDB-A01 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING

 

Ok thank you Inaccurate. So will they only need the one bracket or two?

 

Inaccurate, thanks for showing it all in detail.

They only need to get part #4, then it will work.

 

excelerate will this fit my accord? i have 2003 v6 accord sedan auto, but now with tl 6-speed tranny in it.

 

Just to be correct this damper replaces the stock damper on manual transmissions

 

I CANT WAIT TO GET THIS ON MY 5at TRANNY

 

Thanx for the explanation I understand. Great products!!

 

Yup, its a direct replacement.

 

dope!!....ill be getting this soon

 

How hard is this to install? Also, did the tester car have the aftermarket engine mounts already installed too?

 

Just to add to what Excelerate responded:

The main job of the ETD is to reduce initial shock of the engine when it rocks back (under acceleration, fast shifting....) The two work great as a team. While a stiff mount does its job well, running it alone back there still means its doing the job of two components. With all the stress it has to deal with from this heavy engine, it will inevitably start to feel the abuse after time. The ETD absorbs a large amount of torque that transfers from the engine under sudden movement or acceleration. The ETD can significantly increase the life and performance of your mount just by absorbing/dispersing that shock.

Anyone who does a before and after should notice a difference with a test drive. Possibly even from a start-up, I know I did.

 

I'm not sure. We haven't tested it on the Accord.

Yes.

 

Thank you

 

im gonna look today if i can install this dampner. i checked the accord auto shematics and as far as auto accords it seems like it wont fit. However, 04accordcpe has had an engine swap to a j32 from a 3rd gen tl, and i wonder if he needed to change his rear engine bracket to a 3rd gen rear engine bracket to bolt on the tl engine? if not, it seems like all the 7th gen needs is the 3rd gen tl 6-speed rear engine bracket. hopefully this will work for accords too!!!

 

+1.

 

great info thank you. Is there a way I can check to see if my damper is worn out or isn't functioning properly. Bc my mount is already ripped so I'm feelIng alot of the wheel hop from that. Don't want to buy this torque damper if mine is still in good condition

 

YUP automatic 7th gen v6 accords don't have the two threaded holes either, so im assuming since the 5at is same in tl & accords then all the 7th gens need are the 3rd gen manual tl part #4 for the ETD to fit.

 

I had 60A IM for about 1.5 years now. Install was pretty simple. I drove onto ramps and swapped them in about 25 min (taking my time) with standard 3/8 socket set. On a lift could be done < 10 mins

Not an official test, but.. when its off, you can tell its worn if you can press it down with your hands. So if you can press it using your hands, imagine what the engine is doing to it...

Oem damper is just like suspension shocks (gas-filled), so it will wear after time/abuse. If you have ripped mounts and wheel-hop, stock damper will definitely be worn. And with the OEM, you'll need to re-purchase the entire assembly every time its worn vs. 2 small bushings.

I crossed the parts with honda's parts website. Looks like all 7G Accords share the same engine bracket as the AT 3G TL. So you would need the same bracket for the MT.

-But

Its only half of the solution. I never looked at the subframe bracket for the Accord. You'll have to check to see if it has the #3 threaded hole right under the rear engine mount (shown below). I couldn't figure that one out on the parts website..

 

Forgive me if this is a stupid question. Is the torque damper held on to the bracket only by the cotter pin?

 

kinda looks like the cc auto nrg damper kit, which ive had in my car for 3 years now. its for the 2nd, 3rd gen TL and 6th, 7th gen accord, both auto and MT. it also fits in the same spot at the rear of the engine, which is the best place for it. it helps keep the engine from rocking back and pulling up on the front mount.

 

No there is a shaft and a bolt that holds the damper. The cotter pin just holds the damper from moving horizontally.

 

This product looks great but I am going to wait for some more feedback from fellow aziners that have this product in their ride.
Nicely done excelerate

 

so, yay or nay for the at's?

 

good looking out i will check that too, tommorow.

 

I got to be honest. The price seems quite high. Any other NRG kit is selling for $90-$100. Whether it be on ebay or any other online performance store.

If it was an Ingall's Damper, then $150 would make sense. But it is an NRG damper. And I don't think it would be fair to pay $50-$60 more just because XLR8 is the only company with a damper for the TL.

I was going to get one right away when I first heard about it, but the price has discouraged me from pulling the trigger. And now I am on the fence about it.

 

If you compare them, this damper has the same design as Ingalls damper.

XLR8 has the bracket made from scratch by a machine shop. Machine shops can get very pricey for small quantity production. Just cuz of the shop labor alone, this is a very very generous price. I was actually very surprised to see it this low!

So with all of the packaging, parts, & labor required, I highly doubt that at this price the marginal gains for him are extraordinary...

 

Well you're not considering what's involved. I had to actually purchase a NRG damper kit to start just to get the ETD. So you're right you have $80-$90 right off the bat plus the shipping of the kits to me. So you start with about $100 or so. Then I had to pay a machine shop for the brackets. There's the $50. Then I also have to pay someone for helping design the bracket. Then I had to add further hardware for the kit. Then I had to pay for the prototype bracket, which wasn't cheap since it was a one piece production. So, in all honesty, $150 isn't high at all. And the price isn't going to go any lower. Otherwise I might as well not sell it at all. The $150 price is pretty competitive considering what's involved.

 

Well... I do want one. Maybe I'll scape together some soon.

 

Ordered.Can't Wait!