Hey all,
I just installed an 10 inch Kennwood sub and amp in my 2017 base ILX the sound quality is not where I want it to be; I can hardly tell the sub is active. Any suggestions on what I should do next? I've been advised I need to upgrade my radio/head unit. I am new to this audio stuff so would like to speak with someone who also has an ILX. Any feed back is appreciated.

 

I have no doubt that "simple" head unit swap will fix but if you want to retain the functionality and prefer a stock OEM look then integration is the way to go. I'm sure there are plenty of people on here that have done this successfully without replacing the HU. Without knowing much detail(s) about your install its safe to say that if you can't hear it then it's hooked up incorrectly and the audio shop you took it to wants to upsell you more stuff. Disconnecting the ANC and making sure the signal that's being fed to your amp is a full signal or there's a bass restoration feature on the LOC you're using. This stuff used to be simple but it isn't the case anymore.

 

I did a similar mod to my 2013 Dynamic. I would suggest 2 things:
1) try reversing the phase on the subwoofer wiring (swap the wires)
2) If you play your stereo with the vehicle ignition off and it sounds way better than when the vehicle is running, then it is the ANC (Active Noise Cancelation). Remove or disable it.
3) This is more than likely the issue... Bchester6 mentioned a "LOC"(Line Out Converter) - Do you have one? Without it, you will not get the sound you need, trust me!

 

I did simple af bass add on, ran amp remote to back of radio hu (if you need a wiring diagram hit me up and I'll post it on here for you). Ran the amp power wire driver side fuse 2-in off the battery positive terminal ran along garage door shell pop the hole through the dryer for side firewall just below the brake booster then underneath the back seat to the amp. On the premium package for the ILX there's only seven speakers in the vehicle that's two tweeters on the front doors to I think they're like six and a half I'm not sure exactly on the front lower door panels and then two again I think they're six and a half on the lower rear door panels and then on the back Rochelle there's one 8-in shallow single voice coil subwoofer you're going to unplug that and then you're going to run your line out leads the converter from high level to low level off of those two leads right there it should be a green and red but again if you need the wiring diagram hit me up I'll get you vehicle specific wiring diagram. (I've been a dealership tech for Honda for the last 20 something years). I know that my system looks like crap the wiring job is horrible and all the mounting is shit but it works and they got these speakers that are shown here in the Q Bomb Composite Ported Box, I've blown them once and then I brought him to a friend he replaced the spiders on them cuz they were dry rotted and he replaced the voice coils with aluminum flat wire instead of copper wire and I'll tell you why they're more responsive and they hit pretty hard so we're on round two they're doing pretty well so far especially after breaking and it sounds freaking pretty good the only thing that drives me up a wall is on the rear shelf on the interior of the vehicle give this piece of plastic that's just trim not the ones on the corner ears that cover up the airbags in the the inside of the seat pillar interior by the rear window but that plastic that goes over the rear shelf subwoofer vibrates like crazy and it creates this reverb and it amplifies against the freaking rear window and drives me nuts only uncertain frequencies of course but it's just louder than shit I got to freaking Dynomat the fuck out of it still lol. Also dynamat the crab out of the interior and exterior of the trunk lid the exterior of the trunk lid comes apart at the trim panel and then the two light assemblies tons of screws on the inside some of them you don't even see so take your time with that. Patience is your friend. Also run a capacitor because if you don't and you're accurate drops below 12.6 volts you're going to have a Christmas tree looking shit storm on your dashboard and when your vehicle stops running after that happens you have to wait for the battery to cool down from it overheating because all they put in the newer Acuras is a 400 amp battery it's like the size of a fucking Harley-Davidson battery it's ridiculous and then once that cools off and you do start your vehicle when you start driving some of the lights will go off but you're going to need to buy directional scan tool like a snap on solace or versus or Zeus to clear the rest of them relearn like steering angle sensor and other stuff clear the codes and also reprogram the battery to the vehicle yes it matters even though it's not an agm in most cases. so I ran a three-fured capacitor and then what I also did was I didn't have a super capacitor which looks like a battery but it's not it's just like a whole bunch of caps in a battery case basically I ran a 400 amp gel battery in the back by my capacitor and addition to the 12 volt main battery that's also in the vehicle I went I pulled up the battery tray and all the crap right there and I just dropped in an 890 amp battery don't care seriously a 400 amp battery and all electric car I don't know what the fuck they were thinking it's a shit design...

Dynomat the fuck out of this trunk lid or it's going to rattle the shit outta your brain and drive you absolutely insane lol

Replaced both dry rotted spiders and both speakers and replace the copper voice coil windings with aluminum fat wire way more responsive especially after breaking sound great and that q bomb composite box is dope as fuck thank God I didn't pay $400 for it LOL




Don't forget to turn those little screws, right there for the line out converter levels up 🤔😉... *Because it really sucks when you forget to do that and you're trying to figure out why you ain't got no sound out of your bass system LOL....






Oem rear shelf svc subwoofer and connection unplugged



Run your power plus amp wire driver side in between the air filter housing and that box right there and obviously it's going underneath the brake fluid reservoir which is going to like 7:00 position from looking at the front of the vehicle onto the firewall where I pop the hole through the firewall and then put a grommet on it, before you thread that power wire through there. JUST do it because if you don't, then you may have a fire and you're going to feel like an idiot

I ran these big blade fuses because they're way easier to come by and way cheaper than buying stereo specific fuses gold plating and all that other bullshit fuck that it's just a fuse gold plating we're not in competition here just want base for god sakes get the blade ones trust me been there done that.

Okay so on the left hand door shell you're going to have a lock cylinder right behind the release lever for the trunk and or fuel door I highly suggest when you pop that door show up that you pop the lock cylinder out because when you're reinstall it if you don't you're going to break up the little plastic knob on the end of the metal lock cylinder and then it won't work and again you'll feel stupid so don't do that just the door still played on and then put the lock cylinder in...

Put an eyelet on your power + amp wire at the battery terminal... And also won't run Waterloo if anywhere on that power wire run it right there and then wrap it around to the fuse holder cuz that's really that's going to be the most chafing and then of course the rest of the exposed eng compartment a/m wire.

 

I'd like to add, I know my system isn't comparable. I have an underseat system, and I also wanted to add to disconnect the ANC plug which for me helped remove the sub noise cancellation and produce clearer sound!