I need help with my new car audio, first step I think is to get a sub and amp, but what should I get. All options are possibilities right now. Please respond, I need HELP with this, I got like every catalog from every company, I'm sure I know what you're talking about.

THANKS

P.S. I was looking at a W7 from JL audio, if this is any good?

Nick

 

The options are up to you. Your choice of sub(s) and amp(s) depends on your taste of bass and cosmetic point of view. You can search around for installed system pics and see the layouts. I wish I could help more. Good luck.

 

A few questions to help us help you:

1. What DO you like about the factory system.
2. What DON'T you like about the factory system.
3. What kind(s) of music do you listen to?
4. How much time do you spend in your car in a typical week?
5. How often do you have people in the back seat?
6. What's your budget, if you've even thought about that.

These are pretty generic questions, but they'll help you make intelligent decisions about how to best spend your money.

- Brian

 

Ok my answers to the questions

I like the head unit to the bose system, since I dont want any custom part messing up the front. I like the clarity I can hear the words, that BOSE engineers. I dont want to lose that aspect, but I want bass. BOSE has to make a subwoofer, no doubt about that. Um, I'm not looking at to replace the speakers, unless ppl say they suck, but I think just adding a nice looking blue/silver amp and sub to the trunk will be great. However, I want ppl in the front to be able to hear the sub, dont know how to achieve this.

As I said earlier, I dont like the bass. Time to FIX THAT

Usually I have no more than 3 ppl in my car, since I like to drive with my seat all the way back or most of the way, thus its hard for a person to sit behind me unless its some little hot chick. Makes me think I shouldve gotten a TL Type S, so I couldve gotten more room and underbody spoilers.

P.S. whats the better sound, TL or CL? \
Also money is no problem since I like to buy good quality stuff that lasts, not some cheap shit. Good value, but high end but not ridiculously pricey.

Thanks
Nick

 

2002 Aegean Blue Type S
Underbody Spoilers
Spoiler
Type S Keychain and Remote
AUDIO coming!!!

=================================

Your CL has underbody spoilers??? From what I know CL doesn't have the underbody spoilers. Please post pic, I really like to see them.

From what I'am told, the TL stock sound system is better than the CL, however, I wouldn't wanna keep any of the stock speakers. The reason is those speakers are paper-cone which make them sound as good as 19.99 Pioneer speakers (usually given away free if you buy a head unit) from Best Buy.

For the reference, the stock head unit is Pioneer according to the label on top of the head unit.

From your post, you don't want anything extreme so the decision is fairly easy to make. Just add box+sub (JL Audio is what I go by) and an amp. It's a big plus if you can replace the front stock speakers and tweeters. Believe me, it's a big different between aftermarket and Bloze speakers.

Good luck.

 

I'm working on the trunk. Please pardon the mess.

 

I was thinking JL Audio too, but what box should I get?

I was hoping I could get those new W7 in a box, but I dont think its available yet. Can you help me out with what JL audio product to get?

Also, what amp is the best looking as well as the best quality for me to use?

WOW that is the pic i love on this site, how much is it for that set up? also what subs are those behind the silver?

Thanks
Nick

 

I'd agree with the others that the new TL has the out-of-box advantage, sound-system wise. Not that this can't be overcome with a little creative tweaking...

Let's take the long view here. If all you want to do is fix the bass problem, add a SoundGate LOCB to the front leads, and install a powered sub or a sub amp and a separate sub box, and adjust things so that the sub picks up where the factory speakers roll off. While you're at it, you might want to fade the speakers most of the way to the front to keep the bass from getting too muddy, and you might want to consider popping the grills on the tweeters and covering them strategically to cut down on their harshness (they reflect off the dash and the A-pillar something fierce, and the case itself seems to have some kind of resonance which doesn't help matters.)

If this doesn't cut it for you, and cost isn't a major consideration, you can plug an AudioLink PD4 into the factory harness and it will convert the Bose head unit signals appropriately until they will speak to normal amplifiers nicely.

Regardless of what speakers you choose, you'll probably want to shape your sound; one of the best overall choices for an applicaion where you want to leave the interior stock is the AudioControl EQS, which will take the output from the PD4, equalize it, cross it over at the appropriate frequencies, and increase the output voltage, all in a single box.

For amplifiers, the Alpine V12 series is a good price/performance compromise; a MRV-F407 driving the main channels and a MRV-T407 doing bridged mono on your subs would probably do a nice job and not set you back a lot of money.

For speakers, it's a matter of personal choice. I'm smitten with the Boston RC620s, but everyone has their own personal preference. There really is no substitute for burning a CD with some of your favorite tunes, going to some local shops, and listening to what's there. Some simple tips: pick a wide variety of music, make sure you listen to the speakers with no EQ and no subs (these will be added later anyhow), and try to listen to speakers at the same sound levels. Keep in mind your speaker efficiency will drive your amplifier choice, so make sure they match up with a reasonable amount of headroom.

For subs, there's two issues: look vs. sound. Personally, I'm a form over function kinda person: my 10" sealed box sub does the job and I'm happy with it. Others want something a bit more showy, or something with a bit more "slap" to the bass. Again, it's a matter of preference.

Now at this point you might be looking at my tagline and asking yourself why I don't have Alpine amps and an AudioControl EQ. The reason is simple: I had a budget of $1500 including install, and the Sony amp's built-in EQ allowed me to get the sound I wanted while staying within my budget.

So, as you might have figured out by now, car audio is a bit of a black art -- but that's half the fun of it. Best of luck with your install, and keep us posted on your progress!

 

Thanks Brian

Im curious on where you got that MTX Thunder BLUE sub???

Nick

 

I'm assuming from the word BLUE in caps you want a blue colored subwoofer? The Blue Thunder sub is silver, and has some blue writing on the sub cap, but that's about it. You can get one on sale with a box at Crutchfield for $69. The link to the item is here.

In case you were trying to juggle the numbers a bit, thought I'd give you a breakdown on the cost of doing a sub-only install vs. the whole system upgrade with a setup similar to mine:

I bought the AudioLink PD4 directly from the manufacturer ; cost for this item with the custom harness and shipping was approximately $210. If you go the subwoofer only route, you should be able to get a SoundGate LOCB for approximately $120 from a car audio retailer.

I bought the pair of Sony amps from Sound City Outlet for approximately $310 with shipping. If you go the subwoofer only route, the Sony XM-752EQX amp was $110 with shipping.

I bought the Boston Acoustics speakers on E-Bay, final cost with shipping was approximately $330. If you buy them from a dealer, the final cost would be closer to $550.

Installation was actually the most expensive item on the whole list at $360, including mounting hardware. The installer, Car Toyz in Richmond, VA, does competition installs and the quality of their work was very good. I'm going to guess a subwoofer-only install would still set you back about $175, because the installer is still going to have to disassemble the dash area to install the LOCB and run the wires for the amp kit to the trunk.

So, the final guesstimates, including install:

Subwoofer-only Route: $350-400
Setup similar to mine: $1400-1600

At least this approach gives you an upgrade path, eh?

- Brian

 

Brian, if it is possible, could you post a pic of the AudioLink PD4 with custom harness? I'm interested in how it looks. Thanks

 

Actually, it's not too different than the picture here, just keep in mind that the unit is small enough (approximately 5 1/4" x 5 3/4" x 1") you can tuck it away in the spare space in the console area with room to spare.

I'll post a pic of the installed PD4 next time I have the center console popped open.

- Brian

 

I like Xtant amp for their look & liability
I chose Focals for their price & clarity
01'-S
Focals & Xtant, Polarg M6, V1
Copmtech sways & more mods on the way

 

and this one

 

Do you drive around with that door open all the time??? Does it look bad or what?

Thanks

Nick

 

JL W6's......Very clean and Very deep if you power them correctly.
Easily the best sounding (not necessarily the loudest) subs I have ever heard.