CCColtsicehockey's Home Projects Thread
09-10-2019, 10:00 AM
#881
Ex-OEM King
There will be two pieces of 64in x 1.5in x 13/16in and two pieces of around 24in x 1.5in x 13/16in. So they will be shorter than the height of the blade on a single pass at least. Doing it would also allow me to remove the rough cut side from these pieces of cedar to maybe create a smoother surface for the opening and closing of the lid.
Eye ball everything. I've got the accuracy down to about 3/4". Wood putty the rest.
09-10-2019, 10:19 AM
#882
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09-10-2019, 10:54 AM
#883
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So got some more done Saturday and Sunday but not as much as I wanted do to other plans we had and well football being back and getting in the way of my productivity.
Grabbed some daylight pictures of the paver pad install.
Dog checking it out. Already caught them using it to lay on. They will be disappointed possibly when there is a large cabinet on it soon.
They say you only need stakes every 18-20in on straights. I may have gone overboard I think this is like every 9in.
Closer look at the cut job
Got started on the glue-up of the lid for the cabinet. Cut all the boards down to about 18in longer than the amount I need.
Marked them with a U shape mark so as to be able to line them back up after figuring out the layout I liked best.
Getting ready for glue. Started with only two clamps to get them lined up and glued on a raised work surface.
Moved it to the floor to add the remaining clamps along with shims to keep from indents in the edge. Was able to line the boards up pretty well on the floor so should have minimal sanding to make the surface relatively flat. It is cabinet top and not a table so not super concerned though.
While that dried I decided to start work on the tongue and groove boards for one side to figure out things for the first time. After buying a good quality tongue and groove bit set I figured this would be pretty easy. Not so much. Turns out those bits are huge and need to be spun at a slower speed. My cheap router kit is a single speed just on and off so I can't use them with it as it would spin the bits 11k RPM faster than they can be used. So some quick research on an alternative and decided to go about it manually using two regular cutting bits.
Decided a 1/4in deep by 1/4in wide tongue and groove joint. I used this 1/4in bit to cut the groove.
This 1/2in bit I used to cut the tongue having to cut one side first and flip the board over to cut the other.
I had to do a little bit of filing on two of the tongues since the boards were not exactly all uniform thickness but overall worked really well. I feel comfortable enough at this point to return the expensive bit set and proceed with this method.
Here is the test fit of the one panel. Trying to decide if I want to chamfer all of the vertical boards or if I want to just do the middle three and leave the outer ones part of like a frame.
Here is a shot of the unclamped top. Hopefully, I won't have any issues of it separating. I finally have a crack after this past week of high heat in my egg tabletop that I glued and screwed down to my table. So it looks like I will need to make a replacement top for that sooner than expected. I also have to figure out if I am going to attach the lip to the outside of the top or underneath it. If I am going to do underneath as I had originally designed I am going to need to figure out how to rip the 13/16 cedar stock to 11/16 thick because that is what I used in my calculations. I believe Lowe's wood measurements instead of taking my own. Stupid I know
The lip will only be 1.5in tall so I figure I can cut it down to that size and then rip it verital from 13/16 thick to 11/16 on the table saw since I don't have a planer.
Grabbed some daylight pictures of the paver pad install.
Dog checking it out. Already caught them using it to lay on. They will be disappointed possibly when there is a large cabinet on it soon.
They say you only need stakes every 18-20in on straights. I may have gone overboard I think this is like every 9in.
Closer look at the cut job
Got started on the glue-up of the lid for the cabinet. Cut all the boards down to about 18in longer than the amount I need.
Marked them with a U shape mark so as to be able to line them back up after figuring out the layout I liked best.
Getting ready for glue. Started with only two clamps to get them lined up and glued on a raised work surface.
Moved it to the floor to add the remaining clamps along with shims to keep from indents in the edge. Was able to line the boards up pretty well on the floor so should have minimal sanding to make the surface relatively flat. It is cabinet top and not a table so not super concerned though.
While that dried I decided to start work on the tongue and groove boards for one side to figure out things for the first time. After buying a good quality tongue and groove bit set I figured this would be pretty easy. Not so much. Turns out those bits are huge and need to be spun at a slower speed. My cheap router kit is a single speed just on and off so I can't use them with it as it would spin the bits 11k RPM faster than they can be used. So some quick research on an alternative and decided to go about it manually using two regular cutting bits.
Decided a 1/4in deep by 1/4in wide tongue and groove joint. I used this 1/4in bit to cut the groove.
This 1/2in bit I used to cut the tongue having to cut one side first and flip the board over to cut the other.
I had to do a little bit of filing on two of the tongues since the boards were not exactly all uniform thickness but overall worked really well. I feel comfortable enough at this point to return the expensive bit set and proceed with this method.
Here is the test fit of the one panel. Trying to decide if I want to chamfer all of the vertical boards or if I want to just do the middle three and leave the outer ones part of like a frame.
Here is a shot of the unclamped top. Hopefully, I won't have any issues of it separating. I finally have a crack after this past week of high heat in my egg tabletop that I glued and screwed down to my table. So it looks like I will need to make a replacement top for that sooner than expected. I also have to figure out if I am going to attach the lip to the outside of the top or underneath it. If I am going to do underneath as I had originally designed I am going to need to figure out how to rip the 13/16 cedar stock to 11/16 thick because that is what I used in my calculations. I believe Lowe's wood measurements instead of taking my own. Stupid I know
The lip will only be 1.5in tall so I figure I can cut it down to that size and then rip it verital from 13/16 thick to 11/16 on the table saw since I don't have a planer.That's alot of wood!
09-10-2019, 11:01 AM
#884
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09-10-2019, 12:32 PM
#885
Ex-OEM King
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09-10-2019, 12:36 PM
#886
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wow, that's huge 
09-10-2019, 03:15 PM
#888
Ex-OEM King
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09-10-2019, 09:34 PM
#889
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09-11-2019, 06:17 AM
#890
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Serious question though regarding the splitter comment? Should I not be using the riser for the blade guard as a splitter? I am currently doing that.
09-11-2019, 08:30 AM
#891
Team Owner
You know funny you mention that. While doing some research on the best way to cut thin strips that came up. Watched a YouTube video on it. Pretty cool device. Eventually want to order one for sure. Don't know if I will this project or not. I am returning those router bits since I am doing my tongue and groove without them so maybe a good swap of funds.
Serious question though regarding the splitter comment? Should I not be using the riser for the blade guard as a splitter? I am currently doing that.
Serious question though regarding the splitter comment? Should I not be using the riser for the blade guard as a splitter? I am currently doing that.
Confession: I use only their splitter and eschew the blade guard, but this is not generally recommended.
09-11-2019, 09:31 AM
#892
Ex-OEM King
You know funny you mention that. While doing some research on the best way to cut thin strips that came up. Watched a YouTube video on it. Pretty cool device. Eventually want to order one for sure. Don't know if I will this project or not. I am returning those router bits since I am doing my tongue and groove without them so maybe a good swap of funds.
Serious question though regarding the splitter comment? Should I not be using the riser for the blade guard as a splitter? I am currently doing that.
Serious question though regarding the splitter comment? Should I not be using the riser for the blade guard as a splitter? I am currently doing that.
Edit: Wait, do you mean the microjig splitter? I don't have that, my saw came with a riving knife so no need for it.
09-11-2019, 10:42 AM
#893
Team Owner
09-11-2019, 10:47 AM
#894
Ex-OEM King
09-11-2019, 10:52 AM
#895
Senior Moderator
Zero clearance > *.
I need to make one for my Flexvolt table saw
I need to make one for my Flexvolt table saw
09-11-2019, 11:40 AM
#896
Ex-OEM King
09-11-2019, 11:57 AM
#897
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You should definitely use the splitter (technically a riving knife lol) when doing just about anything. The only time to not use it would be for dado cuts. Mine is always installed no matter what. Make sure that it's adjusted properly for height, generally the top of the riving knife should sit at around the bottom of the blade gullet, maybe a little higher but definitely not close to the top of the blade tooth.
Same. The blade guard on my sawstop has literally never been installed. To be honest, I don't even know where it is...
Edit: Wait, do you mean the microjig splitter? I don't have that, my saw came with a riving knife so no need for it.
Same. The blade guard on my sawstop has literally never been installed. To be honest, I don't even know where it is...
Edit: Wait, do you mean the microjig splitter? I don't have that, my saw came with a riving knife so no need for it.
09-11-2019, 11:58 AM
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09-11-2019, 12:29 PM
#899
Team Owner
Depends on how it is mounted. My Delta just has a square edged splitter integrated with the blade guard. It’s a crappy piece probably just meant to tick a box for required safety guards.
I think if I bought a riving knife a couple of holes for the mounting posts and maybe a slot between them is what I would need on the insert.
I think if I bought a riving knife a couple of holes for the mounting posts and maybe a slot between them is what I would need on the insert.
Last edited by svtmike; 09-11-2019 at 12:43 PM.
09-11-2019, 02:26 PM
#900
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09-11-2019, 02:30 PM
#901
Ex-OEM King
Take the riving knife out of the saw, fully raise the blade through the new insert, reinstall riving knife, measure distance from rear of blade to rear of riving knife, router/dremel/cnc out the area the riving knife sits in.
09-11-2019, 02:31 PM
#902
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09-16-2019, 08:43 AM
#903
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Not a huge update here. Last week before going out of town I got the polymeric sand put down for the pavers. That really locked everything in place well. It is nice and solid with no wiggle of the pavers when you walk on them.
Spread it out but clean it up before you wet it
Cleaned up ready to go
Wet but not too wet
Completely dry. I think I need to do a second layer of it as some of it settled a good bit in the cracks even though I used a wood tamper to try and get it to settle down in the cracks. It filled out really nice around the conduit as well so glad I didn't bother to order a hole saw for that. Once I finish the second layer of polymeric I can trim the edge of the weed barrior and fill the dirt back in around the paver pad.
Reason for not getting anything done this weekend is I went home to PA for the PSU/Pitt game. First PSU tailgate of the year. Picked up a new larger tent for this season which was good cause it rained on and off in the morning before the game.
Some quality beer
Breakfast of champions here. My cast iron egg sandwich with a excellent bourbon barrel houtenhammer stout.
This might be a little incriminating.
I did at least run to the store last night to pickup what I hope is the last of the wood I need to complete this project.
Spread it out but clean it up before you wet it
Cleaned up ready to go
Wet but not too wet
Completely dry. I think I need to do a second layer of it as some of it settled a good bit in the cracks even though I used a wood tamper to try and get it to settle down in the cracks. It filled out really nice around the conduit as well so glad I didn't bother to order a hole saw for that. Once I finish the second layer of polymeric I can trim the edge of the weed barrior and fill the dirt back in around the paver pad.
Reason for not getting anything done this weekend is I went home to PA for the PSU/Pitt game. First PSU tailgate of the year. Picked up a new larger tent for this season which was good cause it rained on and off in the morning before the game.
Some quality beer
Breakfast of champions here. My cast iron egg sandwich with a excellent bourbon barrel houtenhammer stout.
This might be a little incriminating.
I did at least run to the store last night to pickup what I hope is the last of the wood I need to complete this project.
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09-16-2019, 01:23 PM
#904
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@SamDoe1 Any recommentations when I start glueing out the boards of my panels up? Anything I need to watch to make sture they are truely flat and square? I don't really have a work table at all large enough to do my long panels on. They will be 55x34. The smaller panels I can glue up on my cabinet top as they will only be 16x34. The small panels I will only be glueing in place the board on each end and let the middle three just held in place by the tongue and groove. The larger panels I had planned on glueing the middle board and each end board which will leave groups of 7 boards just heald in place by the tongue and groove.
09-16-2019, 02:30 PM
#905
Ex-OEM King
First thing to make sure they stay flat and square is to make sure they are flat and square to begin with...
If you don't have a big table, use the floor this is what I do. If you're doing bar clamps then lay two of them down as a stage and start laying your boards out on them. When you get to the point of gluing and tightening, start by just snugging up the bottom clamps, then add a clamp on top in between each bottom clamp to counteract the forces. Then snug those up. Then go back and either use a wood board covered in packing tape (a "caul") or many smaller clamps and clamp all the ends together tightly. Then go back and fully tighten all the other clamps alternating directions.
This brings us to rule #5 of woodworking: The number of clamps you need for any given project is one more than the number you have.
If you don't have a big table, use the floor this is what I do. If you're doing bar clamps then lay two of them down as a stage and start laying your boards out on them. When you get to the point of gluing and tightening, start by just snugging up the bottom clamps, then add a clamp on top in between each bottom clamp to counteract the forces. Then snug those up. Then go back and either use a wood board covered in packing tape (a "caul") or many smaller clamps and clamp all the ends together tightly. Then go back and fully tighten all the other clamps alternating directions.
This brings us to rule #5 of woodworking: The number of clamps you need for any given project is one more than the number you have.
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09-16-2019, 03:27 PM
#906
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Hopefully everything is pretty good and square and flat. I don't have a planner or joiner so it won't be completely perfect but doing what I can. When I rip down my boards I do it 1/8in at a time and alternate sides to try and clean things up.
Glad to hear you use the floor cause that is what I did for glueing up cabinet top. I hope I have enought clamps. I have the four long pipe clamps I bought which I though would be enough for the 55x34. Then I have 4 other clamps I could use to kind of make two caul to try and sandwich things together.
Glad to hear you use the floor cause that is what I did for glueing up cabinet top. I hope I have enought clamps. I have the four long pipe clamps I bought which I though would be enough for the 55x34. Then I have 4 other clamps I could use to kind of make two caul to try and sandwich things together.
09-18-2019, 07:03 AM
#907
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Monday night I got a bit done on my boards for the exterior. I got them cut rough cut down to length and then ran them through the table saw 1/16 to 1/8in at a time to get them all down to 3 1/4in wide. Then I made three of them 3in wide as the center board of each panel will be smaller to get it the panel to the exact size needed.
Measuring out 31-32in boards trying to leaver out bad sections. Final board length will be 30 1/4in
Everything rought cut down. As you can see not all the boards are perfect on the edges. Some much worse than others but made those the 3in boards where I could and was able to cut off the bad part.
Made myself a work table out of some old tires.
Everything finished up for the night. 30 boards 3 1/4in and 3 boards 3in
So after all that meticulous work I have laid out one of my 55in panels which contains 17 boards. Turns out it is 55 1/4in right now. So I am just a little large on what I thought were exact measurements. So trying to decide if I attempt to go back and remove 1/64 from each of the 16 boards except for the center board or if since the center boards is already a different size than the rest do I just use that board to adjust everything to size? Only thing giving me pause from going that route is because the center board and the two outer boards are the only ones being glued in place. The rest will just in place with the tongue and groove joint.
Hoping to get one panel glued up before I leave for my golf trip this weekend still.
Measuring out 31-32in boards trying to leaver out bad sections. Final board length will be 30 1/4in
Everything rought cut down. As you can see not all the boards are perfect on the edges. Some much worse than others but made those the 3in boards where I could and was able to cut off the bad part.
Made myself a work table out of some old tires.
Everything finished up for the night. 30 boards 3 1/4in and 3 boards 3in
So after all that meticulous work I have laid out one of my 55in panels which contains 17 boards. Turns out it is 55 1/4in right now. So I am just a little large on what I thought were exact measurements. So trying to decide if I attempt to go back and remove 1/64 from each of the 16 boards except for the center board or if since the center boards is already a different size than the rest do I just use that board to adjust everything to size? Only thing giving me pause from going that route is because the center board and the two outer boards are the only ones being glued in place. The rest will just in place with the tongue and groove joint.
Hoping to get one panel glued up before I leave for my golf trip this weekend still.
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09-18-2019, 08:17 AM
#909
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Thank goodness it will cost way under that but any of the outdoor rated ones you buy prebuilt and look good are well over that even. It is crazy what companies were charging for pre-made ones.
09-18-2019, 09:50 AM
#910
Ex-OEM King
Monday night I got a bit done on my boards for the exterior. I got them cut rough cut down to length and then ran them through the table saw 1/16 to 1/8in at a time to get them all down to 3 1/4in wide. Then I made three of them 3in wide as the center board of each panel will be smaller to get it the panel to the exact size needed.
Measuring out 31-32in boards trying to leaver out bad sections. Final board length will be 30 1/4in
Everything rought cut down. As you can see not all the boards are perfect on the edges. Some much worse than others but made those the 3in boards where I could and was able to cut off the bad part.
Made myself a work table out of some old tires.
Everything finished up for the night. 30 boards 3 1/4in and 3 boards 3in
So after all that meticulous work I have laid out one of my 55in panels which contains 17 boards. Turns out it is 55 1/4in right now. So I am just a little large on what I thought were exact measurements. So trying to decide if I attempt to go back and remove 1/64 from each of the 16 boards except for the center board or if since the center boards is already a different size than the rest do I just use that board to adjust everything to size? Only thing giving me pause from going that route is because the center board and the two outer boards are the only ones being glued in place. The rest will just in place with the tongue and groove joint.
Hoping to get one panel glued up before I leave for my golf trip this weekend still.
Measuring out 31-32in boards trying to leaver out bad sections. Final board length will be 30 1/4in
Everything rought cut down. As you can see not all the boards are perfect on the edges. Some much worse than others but made those the 3in boards where I could and was able to cut off the bad part.
Made myself a work table out of some old tires.
Everything finished up for the night. 30 boards 3 1/4in and 3 boards 3in
So after all that meticulous work I have laid out one of my 55in panels which contains 17 boards. Turns out it is 55 1/4in right now. So I am just a little large on what I thought were exact measurements. So trying to decide if I attempt to go back and remove 1/64 from each of the 16 boards except for the center board or if since the center boards is already a different size than the rest do I just use that board to adjust everything to size? Only thing giving me pause from going that route is because the center board and the two outer boards are the only ones being glued in place. The rest will just in place with the tongue and groove joint.
Hoping to get one panel glued up before I leave for my golf trip this weekend still.
Edit: I don't think I could reliably remove 1/64th using a planer, let alone a table saw.
09-18-2019, 11:12 AM
#911
Senior Moderator
Looking forward to the finished product. 
09-18-2019, 11:37 AM
#912
Honestly, what I'd do is a dry assembly with all the boards as is, then mark the excess on either side (should be 2/16th), and trim off that excess. No one is going to notice a 1/8 difference in the end boards that butt up against legs. Attempting to remove 1/64th (lol) from each board is an exercise in futility, all that will happen is other things will go wrong.
Edit: I don't think I could reliably remove 1/64th using a planer, let alone a table saw.
Edit: I don't think I could reliably remove 1/64th using a planer, let alone a table saw.
09-18-2019, 12:14 PM
#913
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Honestly, what I'd do is a dry assembly with all the boards as is, then mark the excess on either side (should be 2/16th), and trim off that excess. No one is going to notice a 1/8 difference in the end boards that butt up against legs. Attempting to remove 1/64th (lol) from each board is an exercise in futility, all that will happen is other things will go wrong.
Edit: I don't think I could reliably remove 1/64th using a planer, let alone a table saw.
Edit: I don't think I could reliably remove 1/64th using a planer, let alone a table saw.
09-18-2019, 12:15 PM
#914
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Someday maybe when I build a bigger garage. Trying to not add anything to this garage unless I can get rid of a good bit of stuff first so I have a place to store it. Things are too cramped as it is. I have way too much stuff but I am slowly realizing I prefer to have space its just taking me a while to convince myself to get rid of shit lol.
09-18-2019, 12:53 PM
#915
Ex-OEM King
Rule #1 of woodworking: Woodworking is 1/3 planning, 1/3 execution, and 1/3 figuring out how to change your plan to hide the mistake you made during execution.
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09-18-2019, 12:56 PM
#916
Someday maybe when I build a bigger garage. Trying to not add anything to this garage unless I can get rid of a good bit of stuff first so I have a place to store it. Things are too cramped as it is. I have way too much stuff but I am slowly realizing I prefer to have space its just taking me a while to convince myself to get rid of shit lol.
09-18-2019, 01:57 PM
#917
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Yeah no that will be a forever fixture in my garage.
09-19-2019, 11:20 AM
#919
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@SamDoe1 : Are you a carpenter?
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09-19-2019, 12:20 PM
#920
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Nope, I'm an engineer for my day job. I woodworking is just an outlet for me to keep busy. I've learned a lot about what to do and, more importantly, what not to do over the past several years and enjoy sharing my experience so other people don't make the same mistakes I did.