civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Record it too...for science.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

damn 10'... can you send me some...

CCColtsicehockey

I honestly have no clue how hot they get. Kind of just did some looking at what average temps for headers get to and then found a heat shield that seemed above that. The headers are solid stainless so they shouldn't retain heat very well to begin with though they do probably get pretty hot. I have been told if I wanted cats I have to do kooks green cats cause of the temperatures.

CCColtsicehockey

CCColtsicehockey

Right. It would be nice if I could just get 2-3 ft.

CCColtsicehockey

So been slacking on this. Bought some new wheels from a local ATS-V owner in Oct 2020. Then some coilovers about a month later since I would actually need to raise the car up a bit to fit the aggressive wheel fitment.

BCForged EH181 19x9 19x10. Not able to run any larger tires in the front or rear but seeing as I never want to go back to spacers with this car after that disaster these would be super aggressive which is exactly what I wanted. Maybe just too aggressive though without lots of headaches. Nothing awesome is ever easy though I guess.

New wheels in Octovber 2020


Finally moved the summer tires over in February 2021


I knew I couldn't drive the car this way but hey lets test fit them at least. Perfect rear fitment looks wise.




Yikes on the fronts. They hit the calipers.


3mm spacers.


Much better. Actually perfect.



Before I could install the coilovers I also need to build my magnetic ride delete kit.












Because the connector I am using doesn't have the right side clips on it I order some thin 8in zip ties to keep secured.


Now we are good to go


Half install at a time. In case I ran out of time I only needed the rears in to be able to put the wheels on. Plus allows so much more room to move around the car.


The entire rear interior in the wagon must come out to do the install.






The rear perch on this car is too stupid short for the spring length and for the spring rate. They use the same spring lengths and rate for the coupe, sedan, and wagon. Yes they all mount the same but the wagon weights 200lbs more than the coupe and all that weight is in the rear. It is terrible. More on that in a bit.


Rear fully in


Magride delete test fit




First drop back down. Yeah that is too low. Had to jack it back up and raise it some. Won't be the last by a longshot.


Best part about the fronts. Poly lower mounts. The factory rubber ones are notorious for failing before the actual shocks do. Plus more rigid handling.


Fronts in


Yeah that isn't going to work 3 more times to get the front driveable.
[img]build[/img]

Double sided body tape for the delete mounts















So rolled it out of the garage at this height the next morning. Wasn't going to cut it still. The interior wasn't back in and it rubbed with just me in the car.


Raised it up a smidge more, gave it a wash, and tried it for about 3 weeks.




It still rubbed like crazy. Black rubber shavings always. Had the fenders rolled and that helped some but still not perfect. If I put the girlfriend, one of the dogs, and our gear to go play adult kickball (not a lot) It would rub on any corner almost still in the rear.






So at this point, I am pretty fed up. I love stanced cars and I don't really want a regular car like an SUV for road trips and travel with the dogs I want to be able to use my wagon. I could do it with my ISF why not the Vagon. I ran 12k springs on the ISF in the rear and the V kit comes stock with 12k rear but the car weighs 600lbs more. So I reached out do BC Racing. Since the V kit doesn't use symmetrical springs you can't just order any rate and height. In most cases that would mean no options. In this case, it means one option. The AWD wagon coilovers they sell for the regular CTS wagon are 14k and 1in taller. This is actually perfect. I already have the height perch as tall as it will go and still rub. Had only 1/4inch left which I have actually now raised the car that much. But the other issue is still the weight-bearing part of the spring. Spring rates are the amount of weight it takes to compress a spring X amount measure. With the wagon being so heavy and the spring rate only being 12k, and the perch height they give you, it pretty much means you can only run tucked with the coilovers. I decided to order the AWD rear springs. I had been discussing this via email with BC for going on two weeks. I finally order the springs. The next day I get an email that they are back ordered. Still waiting at this point for them.

Here is how it sat after I raised it up. The angle is hiding the extra gap.



I also put the roof box on for cars and coffee the past weekend because well wagons with boxes are awesome.








The box pictures are post raise to max height as well. The box is empty and weighs 52lbs. I have 80lbs of weight in the back but the interior was still not back in yet. I am currently traveling wit the car with the interior back in and all the tools and supplies I keep under the false floor back in the car. That plus my golf clubs, a duffle bag of closes, and a cooler and it sits just as flush as in those pictures. Which means I could never travel with it yet. That every 2k of spring rate gives an extra 200lbs to compress the same distance. Because of that I should have somewhere between 300-400lbs weight limit before rubbing with the new springs when they arrive. I would have preferred 16k but unless I go a completely custom rear spring setup with new shocks I can't.. I won't rule it out though.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

This is one of those rare occurrences where airride may actually benefit you.

The car is looking good though!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

God, I think because it kinda reminds me what I gave up...I usually glaze over your updates.
But I read this one and enjoyed the pictures. I'm a fool.

What a vehicle, Jason. Nicely done.

Also, I know it's not your favorite idea but why not drop 10mm on the rear tire width. In the end,
it might be the permanent solution you're looking for while also maintaining whatever height you want.

Also, have you messed with the lower control arm cradles? It's 1 21mm bolt on the inner part of the LCA
and I THINK you can actually do it, jack up and physically move the wheel in or out to add or detract from
the camber. Then have someone retighten the bolt while you're holding it. I would try adding positive camber
in the back to see if that maybe helps although less camber also means top of tire will not roll in...so then try
MORE camber.

You're close...real close.
Looks so crazy good. People are probably jizzing on you all the time when they see you.
Seriously.

CCColtsicehockey

If I could find a system I could fully hide and not give up cargo space it for sure would be the ideal setup. I need to look into a complicated tank per corner setup since they will be so small they can all be hid in the bumper or the side trunk compartments.

CCColtsicehockey

I have a love hate with the car in general. It is the best it has been since I bought it but the interior leaves a lot to be desired still but it is such an awesome road trip car I don't know if I could get rid of it unless for another performance wagon. For you though I don't think it was the right car. You love an MT daily too much. Had it been an MT I think you would still have it.

Going to a stretched tire would be the ideal fix for sure. But a 275 tire in the rear with 650whp would just be too small. It's not a cheap option but what I should do is contact BC with the specs of my wheels and order two new years that are 10.5 with the same outer fitment and I think that little bit of stretch would answer all my problems keeping the 285 rear. Although at that price point an 11 and a 295 is probably a better gain if I am going to spend the money.

I have not messed with the rear cradle. The driver side is definitely a little closer to the fender than passenger side. So it has little to be centered. More camber is probably the easy short term fix if the new springs still are not enough. Maybe just an extra half a degree cause my rear is pretty much stock camber right now.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

God damn, V wagons fuck. Shit looks badass man.

​​​​​​275's is the answer to your rubbing issue. I had the same issue with the coupe rear wheels & dropping down to 275's solved the issue, partially anyways cuz it still rubs slightly on hard turns. I understand wanting a wider contact, I can blow through my tires with ease but I've learned to master the throttle. 295's all around is the goal..

You have me really intrigued about the AWD rear springs, I feel like the rear dips too much on hard corners, that extra spring rate sure would help even if they're taller. Looks like I need to contact BC.

CCColtsicehockey

Thanks man.

Yeah really skeptical about going 275 and having traction for sure. You're right though it could be managed. Need to get pricing on what new rears in the same design would cost me. Would be hard to sell just two wheels though. Thought of seeing if they would produce the wheels in 17s even though they don't show that they make them in that size and get a drag setup.

Regarding the rear AWD springs. You have a sedan so I doubt you have has to go as long on the rear perch as I have to get the height I want but the rear perch is 2.5-3in tall. I am on the bottom 1/4in of it so I have 2.25-2.75in that I can go lower. So the taller spring will not be an issue at all. I imagine it shouldn't be for you either. That said I think for the weight of the car they should have just started with 14k springs and 16k should have been the AWD setup.

The other interesting thing is that when talking to support they tell me they do not have an option for the rear to use symmetrical springs. However, if you go to BC NA site and lookup replacement parts for the CTS-V you find a bottom lower perch that says it fits the Coupe, Sedan, and Wagon. I believe it is for the more track oriented DS series. But since you can get the same springs they use with other cars fro the BR and symmetrical it would allow you to use those on the V. That is my next possible step to look into. Unfortunately, there is no way to adapt the fronts to use symmetrical springs though so can't go swift springs which would be a nice handling upgrade.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

@teh CL nailed what I was going to say...
we aren't talking drag strip fraction of a second times with a wider tire or not.
For day to day...wet or dry...the make or break to not lose the rear end on a 650hp vehicle
will not be 10mm more of rubber (probably only 3mm extra on the road because of camber).

It'll be your experience and discipline with your right foot and steering input that save your ass...
or driving within your limits.
Also why I go fuck around and push the limits where there are not curbs or children playing...
so that I know how the car will react and how I will react and where I need to improve or dial back.

CCColtsicehockey

So this thread has come full circle now.

The V is in an undrivable state right now. In the middle of January, I left my neighborhood and made it maybe a mile down the road and started heading a terrible noise. It is really only over 1700-2000rpm that you can hear it. It sounds like a card in some bicycle spokes. I took it back home. A few weeks later a guy I had met through the local V group came over and looked at the car. We checked the valve train out and it all looked good from under the valve covers. I then had it towed to his house for a larger deep dive. He checked for exhaust leaks, replaced the valve springs and plus. I way paste life on the valve springs for these engines. Unfortunately, we didn't find anything definitive. Sadly, the shop that built the engine had closed up shop about 3 years after they did my car. No one wanted to buy the shop and the guy just wanted to retire and spend time with his family instead of building cars. It was towed back to my house where it now sits waiting for the best LS shop in the area to have time to look at it. ETA I have from them is sometime late May to late June timeframe to get to it. They are hoping to have space sooner than that though so I can get it out of my driveway and also so if they have parts hold-ups on other projects they might be able to at least start tearing into it. It's a weird situation cause although it makes a noise that sounds terrible I didn't notice any loss of power when it happened and the oil pressure still reads 100% right.

About 2 weeks after the problem showed up my buddy that I sold the Lexus ISF to called me up and he was ready to move on to something new. When I sold it to him I asked him if he decided to sell to call me and let me have the first right of refusal. I have known him forever and he is like family and he kept his word. This car has been a car I have really missed since I sold it. Just the combination of power, handling, and comfort is great. So many newer cars these days keep getting heavier all the time. The exhaust note it has to me is just magical as well. We discussed a price over the coming days. Came to a deal and had some other things that needed worked out as well before I could go pick it up. The wheels he had on it were painted when he bought them so chose to refinish them. It also needed new rotors, pads, and tires. Had those shipped up and put on so I could fly up and drive it home. All of that took a little time. A little over a month and a half to get it all figured out maybe two.

So I have gone full @rockstar143 now. Yesterday I flew up to Pittsburgh first thing in the morning to pick it up.

I have always done crazy color wheels on my TSX over the years. Everything I own right now is bland. White, dark gunmetal, and black. I wanted something crazy again so I figured why not on these. They look so different all the time with the changing light which is awesome. At dusk and at night from more than like 10ft away they even look black.



Time to get on the road. Don't mind all the lights. It needs TPMS replaced.








It needs plenty of TLC on little cosmetic things and some rubber suspension bits. However, for being 14 years old and 147k miles it is in great condition as a drivers car. It's certainly not in collector car condition but I don't want that. I'm going to keep driving the shit out of the same as I did before I sold it. It's barely was driven more than a weekend car by my buddy. He put just under 9k miles on it 6.5 years.

I will give it a good refresh over the coming years but it will be fully taking over daily duties while the V is down and then they will split daily duties. I have some other plans besides just a refresh for it as well but those will have to wait a little bit.

cu2wagon

You people are crazy.

A good kind of crazy, but still...

Congrats. Again, I guess.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^jealous

nice move, J...
you get bored you sell it. You get bored you sell something else.
Either way I think this was an itch you needed to scratch regardless.

00TL-P3.2

That first shot, the wheel color clashes a bit, but the SBucks & Sheetz shots looks better.

Hope you get the V shored up.

CCColtsicehockey

I don't disagree with the first shot not looking the best. So far I have not gotten to see the car in the sun with them. That picture was sent to me by my buddy who has a Samsung phone. Samsung is well known for over-saturating photos. The color is really hard to capture with a phone. It has more purple in it than it even seems to show in photos The Starbucks photo is really the closest photo I have to what the wheels have looked in person at the same time. In the Sheetz pictures, the wheels are a little more red than there than they were in person at that time.

00TL-P3.2

Yeah, the hyper purple in the first shot is a bit extreme, the others, if closer to reality works a lot better.

CCColtsicehockey

I definitely expect it to be hyper purple/pinkish in the brightest sunlight. The majority of the time though when not as bright it is just a hair brighter than the gas station. Going to have to get lots of shots of it in different conditions.

00TL-P3.2

Aman

Congrats on getting the ISF back! I've never bought back an old car of mine, must be an interesting feeling.

I like that you didn't really worry about responsibilities overlapping with the V - just got a car because you wanted it and could get it.

CCColtsicehockey

This is the first time I have bought one back. Definitely an interesting feeling but feels like I never left it once getting back in.

True they do overlap a bit. Trying to build a collection of V8s before they become extinct. Just need a turbo one still.

00TL-P3.2

:cough:
E63 Estate
:cough:

CCColtsicehockey

That would be the dream finish. Most likely end up being my dad's RS7 when he finds himself ready to move on from in. Not a slouch by any means but wagons are always cooler.

00TL-P3.2

RS7 isn't a bad way to go either.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Not everyone is ready for a Merc Wagon...I'll tell you that much.

00TL-P3.2

Old & slow, but still want a W123 300TD Estate
Probably not with the current diesel prices though.

A project W124 turned E500 wagon would be fun too.

neuronbob

I saw your post on IG about the ISF a couple weeks back, @CCColtsicehockey . Congrats again! I wish I'd been able to buy my old S2000 back, but I ended up buying the next best thing.

I didn't know about the difficulty with your V wagon, though. It's a damned shame that a potential look at your wagon is going to have to wait for three months. That's my worst car fear outside of a crash. Usually, the LSAs are nigh on indestructible. Hopefully, given it maintained oil pressure, there's nothing bad going on.

CCColtsicehockey

Thanks. You definitely pulled the next best option to add to your fleet. Congrats on the S.

Yeah, it is definitely a bummer. I just wouldn't trust taking it to anyone but a specialist at this point with the built motor. You gotta pay to play. I did expect to get around 100k out of it though before going through something like this. Hopefully, the oil pressure means it is something small or I have caught it before anything went to bad.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

exhaust heat shield...

CCColtsicehockey

You're getting a prize of some sort if this is all it ends up being.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'm wishing it into existence. The universe listens!

00TL-P3.2



CCColtsicehockey

LIttle behind on some updates here. Last October I was heading from NC to PA. I was traveling through a backcountry part of Virginia at the time when all of a sudden felt something give out at the rear of the car and I could immediately feel the tire rubbing the fender. I was doing roughly 65-70 at the time of this. I managed to slow down and slowly find a safe place to pull over.

I keep the car really low but this is way lower than it is supposed to sit. The tire is actually sitting on the fender at this point.


I crawl under the car and find this. I will be honest these failing when my buddy had only had them on the car less miles than he even had the car for never occurred to me. I guess Pittsburgh salt even in the air can do some damage and seize spherical bushings.


The sense of slight panic that goes through you with such a lowered car breaking 5hrs from home and 2.5hrs from your destination is not something that is ever fun. Breaking down in the location I did turned out to literally be one of the best places I could ever have broken down. Using Google Maps I located several places about 30-45min win away and started calling them. No one had the size I needed but one gave me another shop to call that I didn't find in Google Maps. A dirt track race car builder about 45min away. Called him, and he not only had the parts I needed but he was also open and offered to come get me and the car.

The place I pulled over which looked like an abandoned gas station where people dumped pallets at apparently also had a property further back someone lived in. They came home while I was waiting for the gentleman from the race shop. Asked him if he minded if I tore apart some of the pallets which he didn't care about since he just burned them anyways. Lucky for me since without them I don't know how we get the car on the rollback.







Thankfully I was able to put the spare on the car so that the car would roll and not have the tire rubbing on the fender. Only slight issue is it basically put the car also on the ground.








One side off


They asked if I wanted to do the other side just in case. I said yes. I think they might have regretted that after offering. Breaking out a torch and then a sawzall to finally get it off.








Close up of the side that snapped.




I don't have any pictures of it back together but you bet I check the spherical bushings every month now. It is on the list to pull the entire arms off the car at some point this year and have them media blasted and powder coated again. It is crazy that the powder coating aged that poorly.

CCColtsicehockey

My buddy never decided to put headers on the car so it has had a CEL for the headers and O2 since I sold it to him. Fun fact if you drive in manual shift mode all the time the check engine light doesn't show up. I decided during the holiday sale that RR-Racing had to order the full bolt on package they sell with equal length PPE headers. Also picked up engine mounts, oil catch, and lightweight crank pulley.

Apparently, my car decided I didn't have enough on PA trip that it wanted to welcome me into the new year with a blown top seal on the radiator on January 2nd.







Searched around for the best deal on parts and then decided to also replace the hoses and thermostat as well since the car was over 150k miles at this point. I chose not to do the water pump as it was 8 years old at this point but only 25k miles since it was replaced at 50/50 split between the dealer and I before I sold the car since it had started leaking for the 3rd time in my ownership.

Parts arrived with and interested party wanting to know if it was for them.




The parts from RR Racing took a while longer to show up and I wanted to do the crank pulley at the same time.


Ceramic coated

CCColtsicehockey

The last 12 months have not gone much in my favor with all sorts of things breaking. I ended up doing my radiator replacement and pulley install in my driveway because the spring on my garage door failed.





Hello Pittsburgh


Several repeated soakings of PB Blaster and it is out and off to the trash.


It was not long after I had removed the splash shield from the bottom that it started to rain. Hopefully it will just be a quick light shower.


Well maybe not


Rain finally let up, put a fresh tarp down and got the radiator out




Time to start on the pulley


As bad as some of the other parts on the car looked this didn't look bad at all.


500ftlb impact gun should make easy work of this right? Wrong


However, the a break bar plus 3ft helper tube from my jack handle did make easy work of it.




Old vs New, almost a 50% weight savings


Make sure the key is in place


New pulley on ready to be torqued with the nice tool RR-Racing includes.


Ended up buying a new torque wrench for this due to the high torque spec it needed.


All back together

CCColtsicehockey

New T-Stat installed




New radiator in




I have only used these crows feet on projects like 3-4 times and have had them for like 18-20 years. However, every time I have used them they have been like the only tool easy enough to get where you need to with them.






With the car being so low and seen so many miles the splash shield has seen better days. Lexus wants a boat load for a new one though. I took the time instead to do a little stitching on the existing one instead.




Cleaned up the plastic panels


Then gave her a bath

SamDoe1

Looks awesome man...that rust though! WTF are they putting on the roads in PA? Cars don't look that bad even here!

CCColtsicehockey

Not a clue what they put down to cause all that rust. My guess is he would likely take the car to cars and coffee in the winter even if the roads were wet or something. It would get salt brine on it. And it would go home and sit then other then washing it off the exterior.