Well, the TSX needed new wheels....ISF is back (Page 64)
#2001
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Unfortunately the cold start with the valves open and closed it not a lot different.
I am not sure how it sounds outside the car with it closed. It doesn't sound that great from inside so hopefully outside it sounds better.
#2002
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#2003
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So first trip impressions is that I love this thing. The sound, the power, and the drivibility are just awesome. They did an excellent job with the car. There is never a shortage of power across the band at all. Even with only driving it at 1/2-2/3 throttle max it is so much fun to drive. I can't even imagine what it will be like once I can go WOT. I was able to put about 1000 miles on it this weekend so about 500 more till first break-in oil change.
No there are not burnout videos and I have not broken the tires lose yet. Waiting patiently to do both once proper break-in is complete. There is also a Wanna Go Fast 1/2 miles event in NC a little less than two months the away. Debating on taking the wagon to it.
No there are not burnout videos and I have not broken the tires lose yet. Waiting patiently to do both once proper break-in is complete. There is also a Wanna Go Fast 1/2 miles event in NC a little less than two months the away. Debating on taking the wagon to it.
#2004
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Apples to coffee mugs comparison, but I know when the active motor mount on a couple cars was going out, a 50-150rpm bump (manually) would take the vibrations out. Same with my old rattly diesel Mercedes, just a little press on the throttle would smooth out the idle vibration/shaking (you could mix a martini on the dash with how badly that old Merc would shake).
#2005
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Apples to coffee mugs comparison, but I know when the active motor mount on a couple cars was going out, a 50-150rpm bump (manually) would take the vibrations out. Same with my old rattly diesel Mercedes, just a little press on the throttle would smooth out the idle vibration/shaking (you could mix a martini on the dash with how badly that old Merc would shake).
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But I'm an old man. Are you an old man? Because that might be the differentiating factor.
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Open is extremely loud when at more than 1/4 outside the car I have been told. Inside the car though everyone that has ridden in it said it isn't bad inside. The V really has a lot of sound deadening in it. They did a great job insulating these cars from sound. The makes it bad for the public though cause I like to hear my exhaust systems so I leave it open around town driving still so I can hear it. I can't compare to stock though with it closed cause I never had stock.
I will have to try and make some better videos as well as some videos from inside the cabin too.
JB come to cars and coffee and I will take you for a spin so you can hear it inside and give another perspective.
#2014
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Sounds Awesome. Cant wait for more vids.
You know, if you drive it up to me, ill upgrade those headlights for ya and you can take me for a spin afterwards...... Just sayin....
You know, if you drive it up to me, ill upgrade those headlights for ya and you can take me for a spin afterwards...... Just sayin....
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#2016
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well it definitely isn't that much shake for sure. Just enough to be noticeable. If I am outside the car looking at it while it idles you can just tell it shakes a little if you stare at it. I went 4 days of a trip riding around in it with the girlfriend and she never even mentioned it so maybe I should just leave it go. Will wait and see if anyone comments on it after a couple trips to lunch with co-workers this week.
But if you're the only one that notices it, may not be worth the trouble of tuning it out.
#2017
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I could probably fly you down here to have you work on my headlights for cheaper than the amount of gas it would take me to get there and back round trip
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#2020
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Your not getting out of karting are you getting rid of the toy hauler??
#2021
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^ See my thread, new trailer replacement.
He can't get out til I can get an Eagle to fall off the truck & roll to Houston!
He can't get out til I can get an Eagle to fall off the truck & roll to Houston!
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#2023
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Only finally took a picture of the engine bay changes last night. Not sure with the connectors they used on the ZL1 lid I will be able to modify and fit the engine cover back on at all. Hoping in the next week or two to get the LS7 throttle body installed and the tune updated but they said not to put it on without a tune adjustment at this point. Its fine when the car is stock but not now.
So forgot to mention this as well. They found both my engine mounts torn as well when they pulled the engine. So had to get both of those replaced. Damn this car apparently went through hell before I go it. It also ended up coming it a tiny bit under budget from what I had expected which was a nice surprise.
Final Parts List
So forgot to mention this as well. They found both my engine mounts torn as well when they pulled the engine. So had to get both of those replaced. Damn this car apparently went through hell before I go it. It also ended up coming it a tiny bit under budget from what I had expected which was a nice surprise.
Final Parts List
- R&R LSA Engine Dissasembile clean hone block, new cam bearings, rings, and cp drop in pistons, deck cylinder, heads
- JHR Custom Grind Cam
- Brian Tooley springs, push rods, crank bolt, front timing cover seal, front timing cover gasket, water pump gaskets, GM cam retainer bolts, three ARP cam bolts, GM cam sprocket, trunnions
- ARP LS3 head bolt kit late model same size
- 4x Camshaft sprocket 3 bolt
- GM cam retainer bolt LS2, LS3, LT1, tapered
- Melling high pressure oil pump
- GM LS9 head gasket
- Lingenfelter Bolt On 2.5 Upper and Solid Isolater
- Metco Balancer Hub with 9.1 Pulley
- Mamo LS7 Ported TB
- Kooks headers with catless xpipe
- ZL1 lid with reinforced brick
- Idler Pulley Relocation and 50mm Idler
- Varimax Intercooler Pump
- JHR Ice Tank
- FIC1000
- New Factory Engine Mounts
- All required fluids
Last edited by CCColtsicehockey; 03-29-2017 at 01:37 PM.
#2024
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Bad ass! Congrats Jason
Once I return to work, you should bring it by
Once I return to work, you should bring it by
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#2027
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#2033
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if that is the case, (from what i can see in the engine bay) i would seriously consider ditching your hard lines.... now with an upgraded heat exchanger, ice box, pump and ZL1 lid, your flow is getting bottlenecked when it hits those hard lines... you will see better IAT2's and recovery time when you throw some hard runs at it... it's only like 15' of lines that's the cheapest mod you will have on the build...
#2034
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Originally Posted by Majofo: J's such a alpha responsible male.. would bone a lot of things.. responsibly... but never a unicorn.. because.. responsible, alpha as fuck, male
/micdrop
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#2035
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A simple 2.45 Griptech pulley, with some ID850 injectors, an ugpraded heatexchanger, and a tune and call it a day. You would be done and out the door for about 2000-2500 while getting a good bump in power.
edi: I miss your old avi as well
Last edited by CCColtsicehockey; 03-30-2017 at 08:03 AM.
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#2036
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Also you really think it is that bad of a bottle kneck if I am not running the car on the track? I have not put my AeroForce gauge in yet so I don't have a way to monitor my IAT2 temps yet to see how fast they recover. Any hard pulls are normally on roads so I would still be driving after which I imagine should aid my recovery times.
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Would I be good using regular rubber hose so close to the headers or do I need to go steel braided lines? I have the regular connectors on things so I don't really want to go steel braided lines and have to convert everything.
Also you really think it is that bad of a bottle kneck if I am not running the car on the track? I have not put my AeroForce gauge in yet so I don't have a way to monitor my IAT2 temps yet to see how fast they recover. Any hard pulls are normally on roads so I would still be driving after which I imagine should aid my recovery times.
Also you really think it is that bad of a bottle kneck if I am not running the car on the track? I have not put my AeroForce gauge in yet so I don't have a way to monitor my IAT2 temps yet to see how fast they recover. Any hard pulls are normally on roads so I would still be driving after which I imagine should aid my recovery times.
i mean it's not ultra urgent where you have to kill yourself and do it now now now... if you were dragging the car or tracking it, i would say do it sooner rather than later... you can always wait till your next coolant change interval and do it... that's what i mean by not serious for you, but you are leaving something on the table by not doing it...
let's put it this way, on the vorums, a member only swapped out his hard lines on his stock pump, lid and heat exchanger and had a 4* drop in IAT2 temps... it makes sense because freer flow=less pressure the pump is working=more turnover of the fluid is better to cool the supercharger... especially now that you are spinning it faster and hotter, you want everything to keep it cool and happy...
i'm still contemplating on what i want to do with the Vagon since it is in rotation as my and Mrs. K's daily... but even if i don't do pulley/cam, i will still definitely be doing cooling upgrades... i've learned that heat is a major killer of any type of FI so even at OEM levels i'll benefit and be able to pull power out of the car...
Last edited by KaMLuNg; 03-30-2017 at 08:20 AM. Reason: forgot to answer the question.
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#2039
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use regular rubber hose but don't follow the same routing as the hard lines... have it up higher... basically loop it above your positive charging terminal, come towards the front of the car and then drop it down in to where the pump is... that will keep it away from the header... the reason GM uses hard lines there is because of the proximity to the headers...
i mean it's not ultra urgent where you have to kill yourself and do it now now now... if you were dragging the car or tracking it, i would say do it sooner rather than later... you can always wait till your next coolant change interval and do it... that's what i mean by not serious for you, but you are leaving something on the table by not doing it...
let's put it this way, on the vorums, a member only swapped out his hard lines on his stock pump, lid and heat exchanger and had a 4* drop in IAT2 temps... it makes sense because freer flow=less pressure the pump is working=more turnover of the fluid is better to cool the supercharger... especially now that you are spinning it faster and hotter, you want everything to keep it cool and happy...
i'm still contemplating on what i want to do with the Vagon since it is in rotation as my and Mrs. K's daily... but even if i don't do pulley/cam, i will still definitely be doing cooling upgrades... i've learned that heat is a major killer of any type of FI so even at OEM levels i'll benefit and be able to pull power out of the car...
i mean it's not ultra urgent where you have to kill yourself and do it now now now... if you were dragging the car or tracking it, i would say do it sooner rather than later... you can always wait till your next coolant change interval and do it... that's what i mean by not serious for you, but you are leaving something on the table by not doing it...
let's put it this way, on the vorums, a member only swapped out his hard lines on his stock pump, lid and heat exchanger and had a 4* drop in IAT2 temps... it makes sense because freer flow=less pressure the pump is working=more turnover of the fluid is better to cool the supercharger... especially now that you are spinning it faster and hotter, you want everything to keep it cool and happy...
i'm still contemplating on what i want to do with the Vagon since it is in rotation as my and Mrs. K's daily... but even if i don't do pulley/cam, i will still definitely be doing cooling upgrades... i've learned that heat is a major killer of any type of FI so even at OEM levels i'll benefit and be able to pull power out of the car...
I was worried the car wouldn't be a good daily still once I got it back. I was completely wrong. With the A6 you can easily drive it around without any issues. The only issue with my setup some might have is how loud it can be. Besides that it is very tame and easy to drive when you want it to be. If you keep it from 3000rpm and down while driving around town it really isn't much different from stock honestly. So my suggestions is go for it all. Build it to 650-700hp
#2040
I don't know if it is that bad. You definitely don't need to go as far as I did though for sure.
A simple 2.45 Griptech pulley, with some ID850 injectors, an ugpraded heatexchanger, and a tune and call it a day. You would be done and out the door for about 2000-2500 while getting a good bump in power.
edi: I miss your old avi as well
A simple 2.45 Griptech pulley, with some ID850 injectors, an ugpraded heatexchanger, and a tune and call it a day. You would be done and out the door for about 2000-2500 while getting a good bump in power.
edi: I miss your old avi as well