rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

PS, I did fix my light myself with some sandpaper and dielectric grease.

LiQiCE

Unfortunately in Virginia with their love for HOAs I don't think I would have the ability to make the garage bigger. I did consider it - but I can't expand to make the garage wider and add a 3rd garage, and I can't go back without a lot of renovations since the kitchen is behind the garage. I could go forward potentially but I think the HOA would object to that.

As far as not driving the S2000 anymore - that was definitely a consideration before I put the lift in, but it should work out really nicely in the winter when I never drive the S2000 anyway. My 2004 S2000 that I bought with 1500 miles on it in the spring of 2004 has only 24k miles on it - so I don't drive it a lot to begin with

Before I got the lift, if I wanted to drive the S2000, I would have to park my car on the street so I could get the S2000 out of the garage... in this case, if I left the GS on the street or on the other side of the driveway, I could then lower the S2000 and pull it out. I only drive the S2000 when I can put the top down, so it wouldn't be on rainy days so leaving the GS outside is not such a big deal ... We'll see how often I drive it over the course of the next year I guess

TommySalami

18s look too big on this car

I had the light corrosion issue as well, and fixed it by vigorously moving the switch back and forth for a minute. hasnt come back in 3 years

LiQiCE

With the 4 post lift, I have the option of buying rolling jacks that sit in the lift ramp that you can then use to lift the car off its wheels while the car is lifted.

But if you only want to lift the car for suspension/brake work - a 2-post lift is probably a better choice.

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

the lift is an awesome alternative to adding on to your garage.. but dont use it as an excuse to not drive it!

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Ooh, another s2000 on Advans.
Mine are 18"

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

I'm selling mine, though

oonowindoo

18 looks good of course

But because s2000 has no torque, you can really feeling the "rolling rotation" difference (<-- i just made that term up.) with 18'

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

That's subjective. My Advans weigh less than the stock 17" wheels...
Less unsprung weight. All comes down to buying quality wheels.

oonowindoo

rotation and weight are not the same thing.

big and heavy < big and light < small and light

and that is not subjective.

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

I know I've seen them in person. but most run 17's around here..

when I was buying wheels recently.. I thought to myself.. my accord had 18's, and they (almost) looked big on my accord... and it was a much larger car.

i see some that look nice in pictures though... jtrix yours doesn't look bad at all.
i think with them being a darker color it takes the focus off how large they are for me.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

mine are 17 x 9 and 38.5/40.5 pounds with tires F/R...super light.
my 18x9 on the TL are 41.5 all around (square tire setup).

I don't mind how they look on the car, but I do agree that 17's are right for this car. I actually have two sets of aftermarket wheels that aren't even +1" from the oem wheels I have stacked in the garage (aspec for TL and AP2V2).

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Do you care to explain further?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't take offense, I know you're defending the use of an 18" wheel, they do look great and weigh about the same or less than a smaller one. I think his point is for this car and for it's main purpose, he'd prefer to have light and a smaller diameter wheel.

Trust me, the reason I knew I wanted the Advan on the S is because I test fit my TL ones but 18's and mainly the +29 offset was just toooooo beefy for the front fenders.

Your car looks great, man.

What are you selling? Wheels or the car itself?

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Not offended one bit. I have multiple sets of wheels. I am just confused at how "rotation size" is not subjective and would like an explanation.

17" tire gets a higher sidewall profile than an 18". Most of my wheels weigh less than the tires wrapped around them.

Rolling diameter remains equal, so long as you're using the appropriate sidewall profile tire.

Thanks, those are old photos. The car is essentially an AP1.5 - everything good from an AP2 on MY00. I am selling the Advans. Would sell the car if someone really wanted it and made an offer as well, though. Lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha...meh, I wouldn't bother having the debate, just going to be a battle of the wits.
yeah, I'm a HUGE fan of the Advan, can you tell?

DSC_1812 by swimex37, on Flickr


GLWS!

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Another oldie.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nt103?

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Yeah my set is s2000 specific. 7.5 +48 with 225 and 8.5 +50 with 255.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

So is mine

oonowindoo

i don't want to write an essay explaining but remember it is your axle that moves your wheels, and tires are attached on to the wheels.

There are too many variables: tire size, tire weight, tire pressure, wheel weight, wheel diameter, gear ratio and etc...that will impact the result but

When 2 identical cars with the same overall wheel/tire height and weight. One is 18 and 1 is 17". 17" one will always accelerate faster. Simple Physics.

Difference is usually not that noticeable but for s2000, it is.

Some quick Google search:

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=184311
https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=326

Ken1997TL

My rear tires are slightly taller than stock. I noticed slightly slower acceleration but also a more comfortable ride.

Everything is a trade-off.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Getting phuckin prophetic, up in here...

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Sorry but I have to disagree.
If both wheel and tire combinations have the same weight but one is 18" wheel and the other is 17" wheel, it'll require the same amount of torque to rotate the package.

A ton of bricks or a ton of feathers is still a ton.

You can't dispute that, but perhaps your opinion is formed on your experience of having an 18" wheel/tire combo that is heavier in total than your preferred 17"



Anyway...
On wheeler dealers.

Ken1997TL

You change the gearing when you change wheel diameters..

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

No, you change gearing when you change wheel/tire package diameter, which is why we were debating weight.

My other post specified that my particular 18" wheel weighs less than the OEM 17" wheel. If you go +1 you generally go down 10% in aspect ratio to make up for it. This lighter package (unsprung weight) will allow for faster accel, decel, and lateral.

I understand that diameter is always variable, though, between tire pressures and even tire brand. Without having custom wheels/tires made it's always gonna have too many variables.

Just because Nitto makes a 225 tire doesn't mean it's the exact identical size as a falken 225, etc.

Which is why, endgame, I wanted an explanation. Obviously if the overall diameter was increased, it will rotate less times at the same speed, vice versa, but he said it's not subjective and it really is. He felt his car was sluggish with 18 over a 17, and I simply am here to say it's not solely because of the +1 sizing.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think he's assuming that your wheel and tire diameter would remain the same whether 215/45/17 or 215/40/18

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Those wouldn't be the same, that's 1" taller definitely.

My point is he prefers 17 over 18 probably because whatever 18 setup he tried had either a taller final gear effect or weighed more than his 17 setup. It's not exactly the +1 in wheel diameter to blame, as in many cases (mine) you can be +1 and have less unsprung weight with little-to-no gear change.

It's personal preference to a point (aka subjective) and the point stops when you take my examples into consideration:

Same identical rolling diameter and weight. One with 17" wheel and one with 18" wheel = no difference in work needed (torque)


But anyway...

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

sooooo ummm I found a set of 4 tires with only 3000 miles on them.. but they are squared sidewall heights.

I notice, even with aftermarket wheels, most people stick with the +1 size sidewall up front... will there be any negative effects/drawbacks of running a 40 up front and in the rear?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

more clearance for your fender, slightly harsher ride...do it.

I got your point, bud...I was agreeiong with you. I just prefer that a larger part of my diameter be tire, is all. More comfortable and more grip.

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

40 up front? That's smaller than OEM size, and the 40% of the stock 215 is 10mm "shorter" than stock size up front (AP2 sizes)

This "may" lower your ride height 5mm and "may" give you 5mm more tire-fender clearance.

Sure, doesn't sound like anything to scoff at, but it's still fact.

So be mindful that the 40 is in direct relation to the number before it.

*edited for the "may" because if you have a stretched sidewall (wheel wider than your tire) any height difference you did have is effected. Make sense? Same if you have a wide tire on a not so wide wheel, your sidewall profile is effected. The above remains true for using the same wheel in both instances, keeping into account the fact that not all tire brands make tires equally. The falken Azenis is an example.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

yes, I know its smaller than OEM, and shorter in height.

just seeing if there was any direct road effects such as vibrations from that height difference..

my overall height is different from oem anyways as im on coilovers. but my front/rear ratio is the same as it was stock.

weirder/smaller changes in cars have caused strange driving feelz

appreciate the info.

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone else use the IP Autogroup App on their mobile devices to post here?

Excuse the picture whoring, lol.

Ken1997TL

I use it.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You will not get more vibrations unless the tires aren't properly balanced or you have a bent wheel. You WILL feel more of the road imperfections, that's just the nature of less rubber. Honestly though, I'm the product of less rubber (70's baby ) and I couldn't be happier.

You'll be fine...I often wondered if the car would look and sit better if I had uniform sidewall all around. Lower rear sidewall generally results in sunken ass syndrome to get the perfect wheel in arch ratio when adjusting the coils otherwise.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

jtrix, first off, I'm another 3G/S2000 owner so

2nd, wtf, being as low as you are, the TE37 I had were literally +48 7.5" and 225/40 front and fuck my life they gnarled my fenders.

Come to think of it, I'm a moron...I added 10MM spacers and that was when I had an issue. Whoops...plus, driver fender had bondo work I was unaware of so it didn't roll well, and ended up having slightly less clearance than driver side. Plus, my fat ass in the car didn't help.

jtrix21

iTrader: (1)

Lol the last picture is deceiving - action shot on a hard right around some cones. That was with skunk2 lowering springs and Oem shocks as well. I've torn the push clips for the inner fenders over time, but that's because I drive the car like it's not lowered at all - in comparison to other vehicles I have/had.

These AP2 V1s have 235/40s on the rear and 215/50 front LOL.