i have installed two jl 10" subs with a bazooka 600w. i jumped off the rear 6by9's and everything. but where the hell do u hook the remote wire too to get a signal without going to the head unit. cl's have the antennas in the glass. so where could i get a signal to tell my amp to turn on?
thanks for all replies

 

What CL do you own?

 

i have a 2001 cl type s . can u help?

 

I pretty sure this is the same car as yours. I copied it from a post, and it hopefully will be able to help you? Didn't take a good look at the content yet.

Actually it's the procedure for my sound system. The details will be different unless you have the same amp and sub.
Keep in mind, this project purpose is to have better sound and bass while still able to use the trunk, the spare tire and everything else the way they are meant to be used. Finally, I don't have the intention of taking my car to any sound-off competition or compete against professional installers, so pardon the lack of professionalism.

Oh yeah, and the whole system added about 100lbs. to your car.

For the amp, you need to run a power cable straight from the battery to the trunk. The size of of the cable depends on your amp power output. (I used a Rockford Fosgate kit from Best Buy with 8 gauge power wire. ($30 or $40)) Be sure to disconnect the battery before messing with the wire.

There is a existing hole on the firewall which is very hard to find. Look carefully from the inside. It's closed to the throttle connector (I made up the name). It's 2-3" in. above and 1-2" to right and covered by the insulation. Use a crew driver to poke through it so you can see it from the engine compartment. The below pic is the view of the wire entrance on the firewall. It's kind of hard to imagine ... Just stick your head to where the pedals are and look up, you'll see it.



Once you have the power wire install ... just run it along the door jam on the driver side all the way to the trunk ...( Head up: it's kindda hard to go pass the rear seat. So be prepared!).
Next, install the ground wire to the body of the car. I screwed it down at the trunk access.



Remove the trunk liner to get access to the stock amp by taking out marked screws. Don't forget to take out the jack panel and the jack as well. You also have to take out the tool container. Just pull it up hard (but carefully), it'll come off.



You'll see the factory amp located in front of the jack.
Below is the color coded wiring for the amp. from HELMS manual. (posted by Shawn S.)



Cut the output from amp to the speakers (be sure to leave enough wire length on the harness). Connect 4 speaker wire to amp outputs (these will be connected to the inputs of the aftermarket amp) and 4 speaker wires to the speaker input (these will be connected to the outputs of the aftermarket amp.). Locate the remote wire and tap into it (do not cut it since the factory amp needs it). About the connections, you can use the connectors sold at Autozone, HiLo, Radio Shack, or Home Depot or solder them. I recommend soldering but I was too lazy to do it.



For the inputs of the aftermarket amp, you have the choices of using speaker level inputs or using RCA converters (I used converters bought from Circuit City $20/each. 2 needed if you power all 4 channel and the sub. 1 if you just power the sub.) The reason I used the outputs from the factory amp but not the head
unit is because the output from the head unit is very weak ... you'll need a powerful amp to have decent output but you'll also get cleaner sound.

The rest of the project is depended on your layout/creativity. Below are what I did.
If you want to rebuild the trunk floor, I recommend MDF boards (Home Depot $6/each 2'x4') since they are sturdy and rattle resistant. If you have any question, ask. I'll try my best to answer.

Below are my finished pictures.

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[ 08-21-2001: Message edited by: Jerry ]

 

Sorry I tryed to post the images, didn't take. Try doing a search on the remote wire.

 

to get a remote wire, you can splice into the ignition wire, and your amps will turn on when you turn on the ignition, or you can also splice into the accessory wire

 

You don't want to tap an accessory wire or iginition wire....if you do this, the amps will always be ON when the car is on, even when the radio is OFF and you will get humming sounds, especially from the SUBS when the radio is off. You can pick up the remote lead from the stock amp, let me look for the wire color. I just don't know off the top of my head if you need to add a relay to pull the amp in.

 

The schematics of the stereo system are in the Extremely Useful Topics forum. You'll be able to identify the turn on lead wire for the stock amp and splice off it to turn on your new amp. That's what I did and don't have any problems.

 

mcdanjw, I quess you wouldn't happen to know where I can get them for the 3.0CL would you?

 

on the 2001 cl its the yellow w/ silver dot wire from the facotory amp.

streets is right. DO NOT tap from ignition. if you do you can't listen to the radio if you key is in acc. like when your pumping gas.

i've tapped it before to the ignition and i finally fixed it after seeing the wiring codes.

 

Nope sorry... You might try posting in the 1st Gen forum and see if anyone has the Helm manual and can scan the schematics out.

You also might try calling stereo shops in your town, they will know or be able to find out, if they are willing to share the info with you that is.

 

Thanks, will do!

 

Dan, I need to get with you! I have some install questions.