melting fuse block.
#1
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melting fuse block.
i have a rockford punch 800a2.. i know its old but it does the job. ok i have an 80a square fuse. its melting. and just recently it has started to melt the fuse holder. its always done this, but since its started to melt the holder im gettin alittle worried. does anyone know what could be causing this. oh yea, i also put in a 60a tube fuse in its place and as soon as i got it 1/2 way up it blew so i put the 80a block back in. i have another 60a block fuse if anyone thinks that it will help. any info would be great.
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#3
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Remember that a fuse blows at 150% to 200% of its rating. So your 60A fuse blew at 90-120A. The fact that your 80A fuse is not blowing indicates that your draw is less than 160A.
I have no idea how your car could be delivering that many amps without serious electrical mods. I find it more likely that you have a votlage problem somewhere - loose connection, bad ground, or bad amp (assuming nothing else has changed in the system).
Remember, as voltage drops, and amp load remains the same, for power to remain the same the amplifier will draw more amperes of current. So I think you have a voltage drop problem and you should check with a voltmeter across the terminals of your amp as it is playing to see what voltage you are reaching.
I have no idea how your car could be delivering that many amps without serious electrical mods. I find it more likely that you have a votlage problem somewhere - loose connection, bad ground, or bad amp (assuming nothing else has changed in the system).
Remember, as voltage drops, and amp load remains the same, for power to remain the same the amplifier will draw more amperes of current. So I think you have a voltage drop problem and you should check with a voltmeter across the terminals of your amp as it is playing to see what voltage you are reaching.
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Remember that a fuse blows at 150% to 200% of its rating. So your 60A fuse blew at 90-120A. The fact that your 80A fuse is not blowing indicates that your draw is less than 160A.
I have no idea how your car could be delivering that many amps without serious electrical mods. I find it more likely that you have a votlage problem somewhere - loose connection, bad ground, or bad amp (assuming nothing else has changed in the system).
Remember, as voltage drops, and amp load remains the same, for power to remain the same the amplifier will draw more amperes of current. So I think you have a voltage drop problem and you should check with a voltmeter across the terminals of your amp as it is playing to see what voltage you are reaching.
I have no idea how your car could be delivering that many amps without serious electrical mods. I find it more likely that you have a votlage problem somewhere - loose connection, bad ground, or bad amp (assuming nothing else has changed in the system).
Remember, as voltage drops, and amp load remains the same, for power to remain the same the amplifier will draw more amperes of current. So I think you have a voltage drop problem and you should check with a voltmeter across the terminals of your amp as it is playing to see what voltage you are reaching.
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#7
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Originally Posted by wilp99
what should the voltage be? around or about.
in all honesty though, there seems to be a high draw on your amp for some known reason. it shouldn't be melting 80amp fuses, period.
i will say though that from experience in my industry (i work in power generation), an electrical connection that's overheating means there is a high resistance. it could be loose, corroded, inadequately sized, etc.
what gauge wire are you using? are you using gold plated connectors? if an 80A fuse is the standard operating fuse for that amp then you should have 0 gauge wire at a minimum in my opinion. my 700W (@ 2ohms) Alpine amp only has two 20A fuses in it if i recall and i am running 5 gauge.
i hate to say it, but i think your amp might just be fucked. if you run it at 50% gain does it do the same thing?
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#8
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I'm gonna go with too small of a conductor. In your picture, it appears you're running 4 gauge. When your conductor dictates the limit on current because of its internal resistance (instead of the the electrical source or fuse), it will generate heat. I would suggest you replace it with the next step up in wire thickness - assuming you arent using any other amps, it should alleviate your problem. If you are using other equipment, then you will need to determine your total continuous current draw and choose wire that will allow for this.
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