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Why didn't they just use the M340i Grille? It would make this car look 1000 times better. What the hell lol.
Literally what the majority of the BMW community (and the people with functioning eyes) are saying. Let the 4 series become a bastardization of the brand, but why bring the 3 down with it? Who knows, maybe in a year's time we'll be talking about how the looks really grew on us and sets the car apart. All I know is, this thing better not have any goddamn cooling issues, lol. Then again, BMW runs their engines hot for emissions anyways, so it's kind of counterproductive. If I do get an M car, the first mod will be doing a lower temp thermostat. F90 M5's are already having issues with coolant disappearing since the engine sometimes runs hotter than water's boiling temp. Another potential reason is poor cylinder head gasket design. People are reporting fairly rapid (relatively speaking) coolant loss. If there is coolant weeping past the cylinder heads, the M5 will have gone from VANOS/rod bearing issues, to oil consumption issues, to coolant/scored cylinder wall issues. BMW should just come out and tell people they purposely build cars to eat themselves alive so you have to buy a new one in a few years. I still love them ... but this is the reason I keep waffling back and forth if I honestly want to buy a used M car. It's appalling when you hear these guys talk about what maintenance they need for their high mileage vehicles and they just eclipsed 50k miles. What?!!
good grief!
🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢
🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮
next time put up a NSFW tag!
My initial reaction as well. It's gotten a bit better with time, lol. It's literally just the grilles though.
I don't care who you are. This is an absolutely gorgeous vehicle from this angle. This is like a beautiful woman with a drop dead gorgeous face & absolutely slamming body ... and then she smiles and her teeth are all jacked up. Ugh, why you do this, BMW?!
If I do get an M car, the first mod will be doing a lower temp thermostat. F90 M5's are already having issues with coolant disappearing since the engine sometimes runs hotter than water's boiling temp. Another potential reason is poor cylinder head gasket design. People are reporting fairly rapid (relatively speaking) coolant loss.
I heard something about plastic water-pumps on certain BMW engines . That's scary to me. There must be a reason, but I can't imagine what it is.
I heard something about plastic water-pumps on certain BMW engines . That's scary to me. There must be a reason, but I can't imagine what it is.
They started using plastic impellers sometime in the late 90s, probably as a cost-cutting measure. While they're still not metal, they switched over to some fancy fiber-resin composite material in the early 2010s that is supposed to be more durable, and you don't really hear about problems with the water pumps as much anymore.
through all this back and forth I still would be the better rocket scientist.
Consumer reports " STATISTICS" are based on reporting from customers personal experiences with their vehicles. And there seems to be a strong correlation between what stated problem areas a given vehicle has and what I've heard directly from people who own them.I have found them for years to be a honest, reliable source for that information. So so use that so called brilliant mind of yours and read the auto issue and then talk to people that own them about their experiences. I too am getting tired of this back and forth. Because your all feeding me a bunch of crap.
Consumer reports " STATISTICS" are based on reporting from customers personal experiences with their vehicles. And there seems to be a strong correlation between what stated problem areas a given vehicle has and what I've heard directly from people who own them.I have found them for years to be a honest, reliable source for that information. So so use that so called brilliant mind of yours and read the auto issue and then talk to people that own them about their experiences. I too am getting tired of this back and forth. Because your all feeding me a bunch of crap.
They started using plastic impellers sometime in the late 90s, probably as a cost-cutting measure. While they're still not metal, they switched over to some fancy fiber-resin composite material in the early 2010s that is supposed to be more durable, and you don't really hear about problems with the water pumps as much anymore.
Originally Posted by Tesla1856
I heard something about plastic water-pumps on certain BMW engines . That's scary to me. There must be a reason, but I can't imagine what it is.
With the B48 / B58 and S58 engines, BMW now uses a mechanical water pump for the engine block but an electrical water pump for the turbo.
TBH, not excited about these new M releases at all and then I have a look at those damn grills and yeah, who's forking over 100K for this mess. BMW will either pretend that it looks great and do nothing or this thing will have an emergency refresh and who ever buys this version will take a huge hit on depreciation.
TBH, not excited about these new M releases at all and then I have a look at those damn grills and yeah, who's forking over 100K for this mess. BMW will either pretend that it looks great and do nothing or this thing will have an emergency refresh and who ever buys this version will take a huge hit on depreciation.
I remember seeing a post on IG that had me laughing. It was an aftermarket company calling out BMW and saying they will be ready to offer an aftermarket front bumper w/grilles to "fix" what bmw screwed up.
Decent looking car IMO, and just as much power (295HP from a 2.5L turbo 4 cylinder) for less. Interior looks quite nice and honestly appears more "airy" than the TLX ... maybe it's just the way they took the photos. And to get back to somewhat on topic, MT did testing on a pre-production model with the same powertrain as the production model:
Their stopwatch testing did 0-60 in the 6.0-6.5s range. So, expect the TLX, with similar power, to do the same. If you don't need the AWD, this is definitely something to consider, depending on if you like the looks or not.
The accord with 252hp does it in 5.3s. Not sure how much the sonata weighs but 40hp more and 1 second slower is pretty significant. It's not like the accord has awd or launch control too.
Consumer reports " STATISTICS" are based on reporting from customers personal experiences with their vehicles. And there seems to be a strong correlation between what stated problem areas a given vehicle has and what I've heard directly from people who own them.I have found them for years to be a honest, reliable source for that information. So so use that so called brilliant mind of yours and read the auto issue and then talk to people that own them about their experiences. I too am getting tired of this back and forth. Because your all feeding me a bunch of crap.
well, let's just wait until the TLX comes out to see how reliable it is
FWIW; the Honda turbo cars (including the acura's) are being put into limp mode while passing other cars in the rain. not very reliable and downright unsafe
I did some searching and saw this topic pop in in threads but didn't find a dedicated thread about it or a resolution. So we got a tropical storm passing through in Houston and its pouring rain on my way home in my 2020 RDX with 3500 miles. A van is lolligagging as we are about to get on the highway so I switch lanes and floor it to pass and the check engine light comes on and the power dies. Luckily I didn't get on the highway and pulled off into a business on the service road figuring I was about to get stranded. I turn the car off, open and close the door to reset the electronics, then turn it back on and its fine? Hopped back on the highway and drove the rest of the way home with no issue however I did notice the auto start/stop not engaging. Any thoughts? I'm curious how it'll react in the morning.
I was driving on the highway about 75mph and I was trying to pass someone. Then my engine cutout and the engine light came on. I was unable to accelerate I believe it’s called “limp” mode. I had to pull over, shut the car off and turn it back on and everything is fine.
Has as anyone had this issue? I use premium gas, and the car has 1500 miles on it.
Originally Posted by billyt1963
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but.....
i had had this experience tonight. I have had the car a little over a week, about 800 mile s so far. I turned right on red and someone was headed my way pretty quick. I gunned the engine and thought I saw a little black smoke out the back. Next thing I knew there was no acceleration and the check engine light was flashing. I got to where I could pull over safely, turned the car off, let it set a minute, then started back up. Ran fine after that.
A couple of things I noticed. The RPMs seemed to be above 6000 and it was almost like I tried the hard acceleration etween shifts. I was in sport mode when this happened.
My dealer is about 150miles away, so I am just going to watch what is happening.
Just wanted to let folks here know in case it happens some more.
Billy
Forgot to mention, I have a SH AWD, Advance.
Originally Posted by omygod711
I also had this issue accelerating on a highway ramp, I accelerated to get to traffic speed, then engine light flash and limp mode. Pulled over and restart cleared it. I dropped the car to the dealer and they did not get any code. But they are hanging on to the car and asking Acura about it.
Stuck with a 17 TLX loaner, my RDX is so much batter.
Originally Posted by Fury63
Unfortunately I joined the club here today and had the most terrifying event on the interstate. I was at speed (70-ish) and pulled from the middle lane to pass a semi. I got just clear of him when I saw an amber flashing light in the lower portion of the dash. It had been raining and thought maybe it was traction control kicking in. Then I realize I lost almost all power. My foot was to the floor, tach was steady at 3000 and I had to move two lanes over in *big* hurry as my speed was dropping fast (was on an incline). I make it to the shoulder where I see the amber engine light is solid. I stopped the engine, open/closed the driver door then restarted. No warning lights and I’m able to take off again.
Not being overdramatic in any way but I was just north of Madison on I-39. A couple miles prior I was surrounded by semi trucks. This could have gone very bad. I’ve lost a bit of confidence in the RDX and under no circumstances will I let my wife drive it. I’m pretty sure she would not have realized what was going on.
I’m on mobile so I can’t see the original poster but what “plugs” were replaced? Spark plugs?
i appreciate any help. Also be careful executing aggressive maneuvers in this thing.
Originally Posted by Ffsphynx
This just happened to me at 70 mph on my 2019 RDX. I had LKAS on and adaptive CC. Once i was canceling the CC is when it happened to me. After shutting car off, waiting 30 seconds, turning on car, switching to drive, then park again, then drive, it went away and all systems worked again. I tried to recreate issue and could not make it fail again
Discussion Starter • #1 • 10 mo ago(Almost) absolutely loving my new '19 2.0T/6-speed Accord. I've had a 5-speed 2000 CR-V since new and it's been nearly flawless for 145,000 miles. Not so the Accord. At just 3,000 miles, October 16, cruising I-95 at 75 mph in the rain, the check engine light comes on and the car immediately goes into "limp mode." I'd been on the road for about three hours at the time. The nearest dealer took a couple of hours to decide to change the spark plug in the #1 cylinder. I got back on the road, for another 90 miles, then the 225 home and all was fine. A week later, it went to Baltimore and back, 1,000 miles total in two days, and ran fine except for when the car was good and warm, the idle was rough. Not like the serious vibrations I'm reading about in this forum, but enough to notice that it's not the usual smooth idle. The car sat in the garage for three days after that trip, then I tried to get to the grocery store (not raining - dry) and made it three miles before another check engine light and limp mode again. 4,800 miles this time. Good thing it's a manual; I barely made it back home. The dealer (the one I bought it from) got it last Monday. They've had it a week, done all kinds of tests including smoke-testing the turbo (there was mention of water getting in the engine somehow but they've backed off on that.) They found nothing wrong but they talk about the #1 cylinder again. They want me to keep driving it! I'm the kind of driver who's always thinking about what to do "if", but really - these twisty narrow roads around here leave no margin for "limp mode" and women sitting waiting for wreckers anywhere these days get nervous.
I really like this car - better, in fact, than the 2014 Mercedes C250 Sport I traded for it - but having this happen twice in the first three months, and before it's had its first oil change, is pretty alarming. More alarming is that I find no mention of this happening to anybody else...
Bought it on Dec. 27 2017 I put 1400 miles on it since 93 octane after first tank of gas Was in Economy mode (stays in eco mode for most of my work week) when this happened.
On the way to work this morning, steady acceleration from 60 to 70 in 5th gear I felt the engine stumble for a second kind of like a misfire. Car then started flashing check engine light and went into limp mode. I got it off the highway and stopped. I was near a gas station so I drove to it in limp mode. When I got to the gas station and parked, the check engine light stopped flashing and my car seem to be normal again. I open the hood to check for oil, loose sensors or anything suspicious but everything appeared normal. I was only about 10 minutes from home so I decided to drive it home and take my truck to work instead. No problems on the drive home from work. Going to bring it to the dealership tomorrow to have them take a look. Anyone experience this on their new 2018 Accord?
You won't be driving a modern day Acura to 300k miles either. Heck, basically any new car. The electronics packed into these things is what makes them so unreliable. Maybe a Toyota 4Runner/Tacoma will still last that long, but they have infotainment from 2006, so that makes sense, lol.
Nether you nor I know that since it takes awhile to get 300k miles on a vehicle, hence then it's no longer modern
But I'm guessing there will be more late 2010's and 2020's vehicles on the road with 300k+ mile in the future than there are today mostly due to modern CPI, six-sigma techniques, material science and some due to electronics.
FWIW, one of the best ways to make vehicles be more reliable and last longer is to use high quality electrical connectors which is something that drew me to Honda products in the early 80's besides being fun to drive they were also quality well engineered products.
That in itself tremendously helps reliability because poor interconnections attribute most of the electrical/electronic problems in vehicles. It took the German manufacturers a long time to start using quality electrical connectors (my brother's had 5 BMW's and 4 Porsche's to which I've chased down too many bad connections over the years, they have gotten better).
Great example below of the wiring connector plug to the cruise control module of a 2003 Honda Pilot with 320k miles
Note
1.) on the back of the plug wires have back rubber sleeves for environmental sealing and strain relief
2) on the connector plug mechanical interface there's a multi-ribbed rubber "O" ring seal
3) hard to see be the plating on the electrical pins looks excellent for 18+ years old.
Originally Posted by Tesla1856
Right.
The use of garbage lead-free solder has decreased the reliability of all electronics on all machines.
Interesting that NASA and the US Government are exempt (and have been allowed to continue using real lead-solder all these years) due to safety and reliability requirements. But apparently safety doesn't include vehicles, airplanes, hospital medical equipment, nuclear-plant control electronics, etc. I think parallel redundancy in systems is their only option to compensate.
I'm guessing Space-X is exempt, but not sure about Tesla vehicles (or if Elon Musk is "cheating" a bit).
RoHS lead-free solder quality became sorta a misnomer over time which has shown electronics today with lead-free solder has overall higher quality than what was happening before lead-free, despite the higher complexity and smaller component size.
There was a bit of chicken-little or Y2K mentality that was part of leadfree soldering. I was Director of Product Development at a SAN company and had to work with getting out contract manufacturers (Sanmina and Celestica) to transition from Pb/Sn (63/37 or 60/40) to SAC(tin-silver-copper) in eutectic solder joints. At the beginning I was a complete novice but learned as I went along. Key things that made the biggest importance were
1) careful temperature/time profiling of PCBA in convection reflow ovens
2) nitrogen reflow environment
3) robotic inspection of solder paste application
The tin whisker syndrome does exist but it's fairly straightforward to avoid it, today solder balls on some BGA chips mostly in PDA are only 0.78mm in dia
Today electronics are more reliable than ever, whether it be a iPhone or a car's ECU. If not designed and engineered properly, sure electronics can be bad but by and large today electronic reliability keeps getting better all the time for the incredible vast area of applications it's in.
Hats off to all the process and production engineers (I've butted heads with a few but it's a love/hate relationship at times) who devote their careers to it.
1. Great example below of the wiring connector plug to the cruise control module of a 2003 Honda Pilot with 320k miles
2. RoHS lead-free solder quality became sorta a misnomer over time which has shown electronics today with lead-free solder has overall higher quality than what was happening before lead-free,
3.
- careful temperature/time profiling of PCBA in convection reflow ovens
- nitrogen reflow environment
- robotic inspection of solder paste application
4. The tin whisker syndrome does exist
5. ls on some BGA chips mostly in PDA are only 0.78mm in dia
6. Today electronics are more reliable than ever, whether it be a iPhone or a car's ECU.
1. Agreed. Yes, anything that can be done to protect the connectors is key. Also, avoiding improper use of metals in mating-connectors to avoid "dissimilar metals corrosion".
2. Personally, I find that hard to believe. Otherwise, NASA and US-DoD would have moved to it.
3. Maybe so, but most companies (or ODM's) don't do all this or do it improperly.
4. Exactly
5. The BGA is the worst idea ever. We should have stopped at SMT and micro-SMT.
6. I disagree.
There is the historical (pollical) truth, and the actual truth:
In conflict with the publicized Executive Summary. And if anyone ever bothers to read the actual final Toyota-NASA report, you will see that much of it is redacted.
My brother's '88 M6, 32 years of progress hasn't necessarily improved the styling. still miss that GT, even if adjusting the M88 cam over bucket/shim was a PIA.
Let's stay on topic boys. The first 0-60 released is 6.5s. Thoughts?
My bad.
As for 0-60, it's OK not great and not bad for where it's positioned in the market.
What's awkward is the Accord 2.0T 10AT acceleration of ~5.7s for comparison
My bad.
As for 0-60, it's OK not great and not bad for where it's positioned in the market.
What's awkward is the Accord 2.0T 10AT acceleration of ~5.7s for comparison
Wow... that's spot on with the 3G RDX. Feeling better about getting my 1G TLX V6, which is good enough for me.
Yep, what a shock that two cars that weigh the same, have the same engine and transmission and gear ratios might perform very similar. I'm absolutely flabbergasted
Not to toot my own horn (OK that's a lie, I'm totally tooting it), but I've been saying for the past month that it'll probably perform the same as the 3G RDX: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post16621326
It's almost as if I actually know what I'm talking about and that I'm (shocker) being realistic about what this car is and isn't.
FWIW, the new TLX 2.0T engine code is K20C6, which differs from the RDX (K20C4). We'll soon find out what's been upgraded.
Someone from TOV who has access to the part numbers did a bit of research and found that everything has the same part numbers in the engine, so it's likely just mounting points that are different and nothing else, so for anyone still holding out hope that maybe the TLX will have a different engine that actually makes more power than the RDX...sorry for stomping all over your (misguided) hopes.
THROTTLE BODY SAME INTAKE MANIFOLD SAME INJECTORS SAME HIGH PRESSURE PUMP SAME CATALYTIC CONVERTER ONLY TLX TURBO SAME PLUGS AND COILS SAME ALTERNATOR ONLY TLX VALVE COVER SAME CYLINDER HEAD, CAMS , VALVES SAME CRANKSHAFT, PISTONS, RODS -- SAME
THE BLOCK OBVIOUSLY IS TLX ONLY --- PROBABLY JUST MOUNTING POINTS MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE
1. Agreed. Yes, anything that can be done to protect the connectors is key. Also, avoiding improper use of metals in mating-connectors to avoid "dissimilar metals corrosion".
2. Personally, I find that hard to believe. Otherwise, NASA and US-DoD would have moved to it.
3. Maybe so, but most companies (or ODM's) don't do all this or do it improperly.
4. Exactly
5. The BGA is the worst idea ever. We should have stopped at SMT and micro-SMT.
6. I disagree.
There is the historical (pollical) truth, and the actual truth:
In conflict with the publicized Executive Summary. And if anyone ever bothers to read the actual final Toyota-NASA report, you will see that much of it is redacted.
Know this is off topic, but wanted to reply
1)
2) Believe what you wish. I won't put NASA or US-DoD at the top of any electronics technology lists. They have ALOT of SME, but are also very encumbered with many old school attitudes and thoughts. Remember Ada? MilStd1750? MilStd1553? Well on the F-35 it's C++ and Intel i7 Broadwells, and FibreChannel. The DoD learned a long time ago it no longer has the capability to create and dictate electronic technology.
3) True but the large players insist on it like Apple, HP, Dell, Amazon, IBM,.....from their CM. Those that don't aren't very smart, the SAN I was at was only 300 people yet we made sure of it, since "only the paranoid survive".
4)
5) Totally disagree, BGA's are the only way to move forward in I/O density and electrical/thermal performance. Anything from a iPhone to a Cisco NCS5500 requires BGA tech. Mindful, I never liked IBM CGA's. BGA's are the only way forward, you'll never get modern I/F (i.e. PCIe or any highend SERDES) to work with old SMT tech, too much inductance and capacitance with QFP, PGA, LCC,...
6) We agree to disagree, this is a general observation from personal and professional experience (dealing with RMA's). As time moves forward mankind keeps improving electronics not only in performance but reliability. Activation energy of all kinds of components have been improving for decades resulting in the great electronic world we live in today despite the massively increased complexity.
09-22-2020, 05:07 PM
still miss that GT, even if adjusting the M88 cam over bucket/shim was a PIA.
