Please help! I have set of teins saz coilovers that I am installing. This is my first time trying to install these. I have been following 2 different thread on how to remove the stocks and install the new ones. I finally able to install the rears it took me forever but I was able to get it done. Then I moved on the front ones. Everything was going good until when I was trying to move the lower fork to get the coilover out. It wouldn’t freaking move and I’m really pissed. I’m trying to get this install down before Saturday. So can some please give me some tips or tricks on how to move it out of the way so I can remove the stock coilovers?? Please helppppp!!

 

Put your body weight down on the rotor - lean on it using your chest. Pull the fork downward and wiggle it past the axle.

Be patient and try different angles to pull it out without damaging the axle boot.

 

Is the assembly still bolted up top in the engine bay?

If you have the assembly unbolted from the engine bay mount hanging loose, it won't let that fork go free. You need to pop it back in up top, tighten it up to make room for the fork, and squeeze the fork out. If it is still bolted up there, put pressure on the hub/control arm to force it down a bit to make room as well. I remember having to wrestle with it a bit to get it free, and that was with someone helping me.

 

I use a long breaker bar wedged under the subframe area and on top of the lower control arm and sit on it. Works every single time.
Having a second person put their weight on the wheel studs works wonders too.

ouch?

 

Loosening the UCA and LCA bushings (that you need to loosen to re-clock anyway) will allow the arm to droop easily.

 

I feel no pain.

 

what kind of metal are you made out of?

 

Mostly sodium. Due to excessively eating HEAVILY salted meats.

​​​​would likely explain the loss of sensation in my chest also.

 

 

 

 

Left for loose. Right for tight. Just turn the bolts loose a bit.

But...DON'T tighten those bolts back up while the wheels are suspended in the air, with the car jacked up. Wait til the car is back on the ground.

If any of this sounds complex...don't do it (I'm not being mean).

You should re-clock all the bushings in the front/rear suspension in the same manner. And loosening those bolts makes it 100X easier to remove/install the shocks.

But...don't do it if you're puzzled.

Here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/detailed-coilover-suspension-install-07-tl-s-6mt-952619/

 

No offend taken man. But thats the diy forum I use to help me install the coilovers but when it show a pic of the UCA and LCA and say loosen it didn't really help. I do better when I see the actual pic and steps on doing it.

 

Both sides of the car are lifted off the ground when you're doing your install, right?

You aren't just jacking up one side at a time?

 

Umm no. I have one side on jack stand while the other side is on the ground. Was I suppose to have both side up on jack stand?

 

Yes. Always lift the whole axle -- both front wheels or both rear wheels.

Leaving one side on the ground will make the swaybar active. So everything will be compressed on the side you're working on.

Lift both fronts. You'll have a lot less frustration.

 

 

Pinch bolt problem?

 

UPDATE** I finally was able to get everything fixed and install!! I pull out of my stupid steep driveway and it scrap like mofo but I love it!! Going to get a splitter for it very soon!! Thanks for the help BROlando!!

 

Nice. No problem man. Enjoy

 

Scrape like a mofo before a splitter, but lets add one to make it even lower. Sounds logical....... Save your money or raise it up a bit.