Very odd noise from passenger side engine bay~Any thoughts??
#1
"Go Big or Go Home"
Thread Starter
Very odd noise from passenger side engine bay~Any thoughts??
Hey all, it's been a while since I've posted. Been a crazy few months. Anyway, for the past 3+ months or so, I've been hearing a very odd noise from my engine bay (passenger side). Basically, the noise has been consistent on start up and whenever idling. I have about 84,000 miles on my 05. I know I've hit that 7 year mark and it's time to do the Timing Belt service. Was planning on doing it but several things have come up since (aka torn ACL) which has put everything on pause. Any advice or insight would be really appreciated. I'm hesitant to take it to the stealership, but I think I might just have to if I don't have any idea of what it may be.
I've included a link to the video I took trying to capture the noise. You'll notice it right around the 7 second mark.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cvxTJ6eXQMY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I've included a link to the video I took trying to capture the noise. You'll notice it right around the 7 second mark.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cvxTJ6eXQMY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
#3
"Go Big or Go Home"
Thread Starter
It does sound similar, the only thing is that the noise doesn't necessarily occur when I'm moving the steering wheel around. The noise occurs any time at idle, driving, accelerating. I actually had the o-ring replaced on the power steering pump because it used to leak fluid. That problem hasn't occurred since.
#4
Burning Brakes
Come to find out, I have air bubbles in my reservoir
Plan to get a quote how much it would cost to replace all O-rings in the PS pump(6 total I believe) DO YOU THINK IT WOULD BE EXPENSIVE?.
When I checked there is dried power steering fluid all over the PS pump itself but it wasnt like when I got my valve adjustment at the dealer,which makes me believe its getting on my accessory/drive belt which looks brown and it started after. I havent replaced the drive belt yet, even though I already did the timing belt waterpump.
I am a bad owner.
Last edited by MandoTL; 10-16-2012 at 06:53 PM.
#5
Slot Machine Lubricator
iTrader: (2)
I had the same issue, and it turned out to be a simple fix that I found here on Azine. The new oring cost 78 cents from the dealership. The entire fix took only 5 minutes.
All I had to do was cover the belt and pulley with paper towel and disconnects the hose highlighted in the picture. Pop out the old ring and in with the new, plug hose back on and good as new.
All I had to do was cover the belt and pulley with paper towel and disconnects the hose highlighted in the picture. Pop out the old ring and in with the new, plug hose back on and good as new.
#6
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
Not for nothing but check your ps fluid level. The entire pump looks black "Wet" like it's leaking fluid. It may very well be a bad pump.
#7
Burning Brakes
Here are photos:
I also called a few Honda/Acura indie shops(3 to be exact), more bad news. Was told that they will not recommend taking apart the PS pump to replace all O-rings.
REASON: 1st shop)the PS pump will warp? 2nd) will create more damage than resolving the issue 3) You need a new pump. We can't rebuild a PS pump.PERIOD.
And that replacing all O-rings is a temporary fix which would last 5-6mos. at most and the problem would return.
I'm thinking but what if its just the one O-ring where the hose connects to the PS Pump(forgot if its the inlet or outlet side from what the tech told me) They said I wouldnt recommend spending that money on replacing all O rings since its "temporary and we have worked on many TL's with this issue" so "we recommend replacing the whole assembly and was quoted ($400-500) from all three reputable indie shops.
What a load a bull, since I dont have any tools to perform this on my own. I rent a room out with my older cousin home who doesnt have any tools in his garage and I dont know of any friends who would have any either(live on their own/apt).
Not sure what to do, unless I buy just the one tool needed to take the bolt off the hose, just to fix the bubbles issue(low on fluid) and worry about the leaking in other areas later.
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#9
Burning Brakes
its seems easy enough especially with the easy DIY. but I really would have liked all to be replaced since the PS fluid might be seeping out of the other bolts on the PS pump.
Will attempt to change it. And wipe off the areas that have the dried fluid and watch it to find out where the other leaks are coming from. Wonder if heat has anything to do with it, in San Diego its a none stop heat wave or 85-95 degrees. My car sits in he sun on the drive way so with the engine being hot, the fan is constantly on so when I check the reservoir the bubbles were coming up like crazy.
Last edited by MandoTL; 10-17-2012 at 03:32 PM.
#10
"Go Big or Go Home"
Thread Starter
Any thoughts on the original video that I posted? Definitely doesn't sound like the noise is triggered by the moving of the steering wheel and the noise isn't coming from the power steering pump area. Any other ideas?
#11
the overexplainer
One way to find out is to take off the drive belt (something you should probably do if you dont want to get fluid on it, for MandoTL) and start the car. if the noise is gone, it's related to whatever the drive belt spins: tensioner, compressor wheel, power steering pump, or alternator (unlikely, they're pretty trouble free). If the noise is still there, only things spinning on that end are the timing belt, cams, water pump, and tensioners/idler pulleys. How many miles on the car?
it's easy as getting a wrench on the auto tensioner and pushing it back to relieve tension and then slip off the belt. Look it up in the 105k DIY thread.
Figuring out the pattern to put it back on isn't rocket science either. I did it without diagrams. Obviously ribbed pulleys use the ribbed side of the belt, smooth pulleys (i.e. tensioner) use the smooth side.
edit: nvm on the miles, it's in the OP.
honestly from the video it sounds like metal on metal tapping from vibration vs. a worn pulley or something spinning. next time rev the engine. If the noise gets faster, maybe it might be pulley related. if it goes away altogether i think it's something loose or metal on metal tapping.
it's easy as getting a wrench on the auto tensioner and pushing it back to relieve tension and then slip off the belt. Look it up in the 105k DIY thread.
Figuring out the pattern to put it back on isn't rocket science either. I did it without diagrams. Obviously ribbed pulleys use the ribbed side of the belt, smooth pulleys (i.e. tensioner) use the smooth side.
edit: nvm on the miles, it's in the OP.
honestly from the video it sounds like metal on metal tapping from vibration vs. a worn pulley or something spinning. next time rev the engine. If the noise gets faster, maybe it might be pulley related. if it goes away altogether i think it's something loose or metal on metal tapping.
Last edited by ez12a; 10-17-2012 at 08:50 PM.
#12
"Go Big or Go Home"
Thread Starter
One way to find out is to take off the drive belt (something you should probably do if you dont want to get fluid on it, for MandoTL) and start the car. if the noise is gone, it's related to whatever the drive belt spins: tensioner, compressor wheel, power steering pump, or alternator (unlikely, they're pretty trouble free). If the noise is still there, only things spinning on that end are the timing belt, cams, water pump, and tensioners/idler pulleys. How many miles on the car?
it's easy as getting a wrench on the auto tensioner and pushing it back to relieve tension and then slip off the belt. Look it up in the 105k DIY thread.
Figuring out the pattern to put it back on isn't rocket science either. I did it without diagrams. Obviously ribbed pulleys use the ribbed side of the belt, smooth pulleys (i.e. tensioner) use the smooth side.
edit: nvm on the miles, it's in the OP.
honestly from the video it sounds like metal on metal tapping from vibration vs. a worn pulley or something spinning. next time rev the engine. If the noise gets faster, maybe it might be pulley related. if it goes away altogether i think it's something loose or metal on metal tapping.
it's easy as getting a wrench on the auto tensioner and pushing it back to relieve tension and then slip off the belt. Look it up in the 105k DIY thread.
Figuring out the pattern to put it back on isn't rocket science either. I did it without diagrams. Obviously ribbed pulleys use the ribbed side of the belt, smooth pulleys (i.e. tensioner) use the smooth side.
edit: nvm on the miles, it's in the OP.
honestly from the video it sounds like metal on metal tapping from vibration vs. a worn pulley or something spinning. next time rev the engine. If the noise gets faster, maybe it might be pulley related. if it goes away altogether i think it's something loose or metal on metal tapping.
#14
Burning Brakes
I started it up, moved the steering wheel side to side a few times, checked the reservoir and since it was a hot day and my fans are constantly on so hot air was seeping into the hose creating a lot tiny air bubbles. Actually I thought I lost fluid but its at full, the first time I check I was at a slight incline due to the driveway side.
I moved the car to the other side of the drive way(much more flat) and I have plenty of fluid but just have the annoying bubbles. So the 10mm and 3/8socket wrench was a FAIL!! the 10mm socket when attached to the socket wrench is too bulky and not enough clearance area due to the Timing Belt cover.
Bought a kit from harbor freight, but looks like I will need an extension and a swivel 10mm socket to pull it off. Or find a 10mm wrench that might be easier too.
#15
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A set of decent metric combo wrenches is $15-$20, if you don't want to buy just one wrench. A short 10 mm combo-box end wrench would be better for this job, but more expensive.
Majofo started a long multipage thread on AZ about the PS squeal and replacement of the O-ring that has photos and describes the whole [5-10 minute] process.
#16
Racer
A simple socket/wrench set will do the trick. I drove to my local Acura dealership, and they literally handed the o-ring over to me for free, as its like 50 cents..... Took me maybe 10-15 minutes to put it in? Was really simple.
p.s.- this was on my first '04 TL, not my new one, :-D
#17
Burning Brakes
A standard 10 mm combo-box end wrench is perfect-- small and easy to use. The angled box end worked best.
A set of decent metric combo wrenches is $15-$20, if you don't want to buy just one wrench. A short 10 mm combo-box end wrench would be better for this job, but more expensive.
Majofo started a long multipage thread on AZ about the PS squeal and replacement of the O-ring that has photos and describes the whole [5-10 minute] process.
A set of decent metric combo wrenches is $15-$20, if you don't want to buy just one wrench. A short 10 mm combo-box end wrench would be better for this job, but more expensive.
Majofo started a long multipage thread on AZ about the PS squeal and replacement of the O-ring that has photos and describes the whole [5-10 minute] process.
It just needs to have an angle of course since the PS pump pulley will get in the way. But just from the video alone it seems very easy, I already bought the O-ring cost me $3 bucks. Which is way too much but given that it will help reduce the likely hood of a failing PS pump. I was willing to pay it.
#19
Burning Brakes
Total parts is like $20bucks for 6 rings & o-ring which is a small price to pay.
My power steering is no longer leaking, or making any sort of whining sound at all, its been very quiet for nearly 10mos. My pump had intermittent noises from there depending on weather, but culprit was a very brittle, dry internal seal was letting fluid leak and create the noise.
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