When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
DAy three and still no vsa lights anymore after the acura dealer cleared the codes. Two different non Acura mechanics/techs were unable to do this for me. Hope this helps anyone with this annoying issue.
The last time I had the 3 same lights on I add break fluid because It was low due having to change the back rotors and brakes. That took the lights away..
Before I changed the APP Sensor, the car did do a traction control stutter on take off, but that has been resolved. Also, after changing the neutral safety switch, the running lights issue has been resolved. I have two fairly new(less than a year old) Optima batteries in the car, red top under the hood, and a yellow top in the trunk, (for the sound system), which are at equal amps and tested good on a hard battery test (took the batteries out of the car to test inside the part store rather than that little hand held crap tester). Oh yeah, the HFL unit back
When the service tech finished talking to me he said they will have my car in a few minutes. I asked him if he could clear the codes and he said "why?, they will just come back on". I asked him politely to clear them and he called down and got them cleared. Its been roughly 2 months and they haven't come back on yet(knock on wood)
PS I did add some tranny fluid
Last edited by Michael Hinchey; 05-10-2016 at 10:14 PM.
Reason: adding something i forgot
Chiming in because the dreaded VSA light and the triangle exclamation point lights came on. I have a 2005 MDX with 135K miles. All the symptoms are identical to what people here are describing on their TL. This happened after I had to unplug two connectors to the kick panel underneath the steering wheel. Dudes at the car wash tore the kick panel off when they were wiping out the inside of the car. I knew they would be clueless when it came to fixing it. So, I just tried to fix it on my own. Was getting the 84-1 code and didn't have any luck jumping the pins and trying to reset on my own. So, I brought it to the dealer and they were able to reset it using their Honda ODBCII reader. Their's is obviously more sophisticated and a lot more expensive, but it can reset VSA related codes that mine can't. $144 to reset everything. They test drove it with no problems after that. So, I will pick it up this afternoon. Dealer said if the light came in I would probably have to replace the VSA modulator and that would cost $2,000!!! Holy crap. I'll try replacing all of the sensors and the VSA off switch before I pay that enormous sum. I also have some seepage from my main seal as well. This all sucks big time and except for these lights and the small main seal leak, the MDX is immaculate and runs great. I don't think I'm buying another MDX anytime soon. Outside of tires and shocks, I have spent $10 grand at the dealer for maintenance. This was before I started doing all of my own maintenance about 2 years ago. I don't have the tools to do some repairs (alternator, belt tensioner, valve adjustment). So, I have had them do that type of work. I don't have a local mechanic I trust and I like being able to grab the neck of a dealer if there are significant problems that might be their fault.
Wow, my dealer charged me nothing to reset this code. In all fairness though it was after a major recall for the airbag. I just told them it came on right after they did the service work, and even though I knew it wasn't this and they knew it wasn't this, they cleared it at no charge for me. Guess I got lucky.
It has been about 2 months since they reset mine and they still haven't back on.
This is the second time I've dealt with this VSA and /!\. I had the issue exactly 2 years ago (the check engine light was also on and the car would slow down on its own) and it was fixed by replacing the acceleration sensor. I also had transmission fluid replaced as well as a "tune up" (timing belt, drive belt, and water pump) on that same day. I got an alignment in May 2015 and another 2 months ago when I also got new break pads. Now, I just have the VSA and /!\ (came on a week ago when it started raining while I was driving) and my car feels like it's pulling a little. The mechanic told me that I need new rear tires and I feel like I need another alignment! I'm beginning to think that I may have traction issues because the tires and that it may have something to do with my VSA light coming on again. I'm going in tomorrow to get new rear tires and rotation. May be a start for someone having the same issues...
I finally found a thread that describes my symptoms exactly. I connected the scanner to check on another issue and decided to clear all codes on my 05 6spd TL now I have the /!\ and VSA turns on at around 30-40 mph. If anyone can shine some light on this subject, it would be greatly appreciated. Is this something that only a dealership can reset?
i was messing with my ob2 machine today and smathing happen to me eny update on yhe problem is driving me crazy
Omg I'm having this same problem with the abs, vsa, and brake light...! I changed the battery last night with a brand new one and that didn't do anything... Will start with the basics one by one..
Omg I'm having this same problem with the abs, vsa, and brake light...! I changed the battery last night with a brand new one and that didn't do anything... Will start with the basics one by one..
Do your brain a favor and take it to a Honda/Acura shop. Have them clear the lights. They will tell you it will come back on but it most likely won't. Not 100% but worked for many people.
Holy... Wow! It's been a really long time since I've checked out this thread that I started.... and it's still getting updates! I hate to say it, but my 3G died on Halloween 2016(See pics below). Head on collision, other drivers fault. I am happy to say that I am still alive, still a TL owner, and I'm such a cold hearted whore! Within a week after my accident, I went out and bought a 4G, 2012 TL Tech FWD with just 48k elderly loved miles on her. Funny thing is, I was looking through 4G threads and this thread popped up as "Similar", although totally unrelated topic.
Anyways, I really think it's safe to say that: 1. The techs and service manager/advisers are really unequipped with the cars that they're trained/certified on. They seem to have better skills spieling arrogant BS like their counterparts in the dealership(salesmen). 2. Personal use/'Shade-tree' mechanic shop OBD II scanners are inept to clear all codes and/or indicators on Acuras. Hondata scanners obviously do more than 'erasing' codes (possibly capable of programming/reprogramming different aspects within the car's control modules, but I'll save that for a different day/thread.). 3. Which correlates back to #1, if you're having the same issue or relatively close to the same issue (that doesn't include anything related to the radiator) that I described in my original post, take your car to the Acura Dealership. If you don't want to pay a diagnostic fee, take it in for a $30 oil change and mention that there's a light on on the dashboard, and ask if they could take a quick look at it. Anytime you take a vehicle somewhere to be worked on, they make you sign a work approval form that lists the type of work that they're about to perform on your car. So if you're really worried about them charging you to check the codes, wait until right after you sign that form to mention it to them. I've never paid a diagnostic fee since.
Also, don't ever be afraid to voice your concerns. If I've learned anything with my 4G and the Torque Converter TSB, it's that the people at the dealership don't like to admit that they are wrong. I've read lots of forums where people take their cars to the manufacturer's respective dealership for a known problem, Service Bulletin or Recall, and get told that they aren't aware of such problem. Guess what, send a little email to Client Relations for Acura, the manufacturer, and they will be more than happy to tell you that you're right and the dealership is full of dumb a**es. And you'll be getting a phone call back from the dealership with a magical reason as to why they're now going to help you. And when you think about it, for the most part, they're not "Diagnosing" anything. They're just reading the codes, informing you what the codes are, and clearing them. Any parts store will do that for free. Granted, it's not the same with the situation in this thread, but still the same...
Thanks everyone for all of your feedback and comments. I think this is a successful and useful thread that should be stickied!
It's your wheel sensor you just have to figure out which one btw that light can cause the other two to come on
Again, thanks for the contribution to this thread but, it's not a wheel sensor. If you re-read my OP, I went through and disconnected each wheel sensor, one at a time, watched the wheel sensor code come up on the scanner, reconnected the wheel sensor and cleared the code. After each clearing, the code didn't repopulate, thus, not the wheel sensors.
However, it's possible that a wheel sensor initially caused the lights to turn on, but verifying that they work and clearing the ABS codes did not resolve the issue. And yes, btw, one light will cause a chain reaction, making the other lights turn on as well.
I took my car to my mechanic to fix a radiator issue. He must’ve loosened the battery because I had to reset the radio code. Anyway. After I left, I noticed the /!\ VSA lights.
I took the car back to him so he could find a code and he got nothing. I googled and found a 2G post about how the lights are a tale tell sign to tranny failure.
What do I do since I don’t have any codes to pinpoint anything specific? The dealer wants $90 for an oil change so I know their going to rip me a new one to diagnose pull a code and diagnose.
If the VSA/exclamation point light comes on, does it throw various different codes that can be pulled? Like ABS and CEL lights. If so, how do you pull the codes? I've tried with my OBD2 scanner but it said no codes were found.
Lately my 2 lights have been coming on simply sitting still at traffic lights. Other times simply just cruising in 3rd gear @ 35/40mph
I have the top model of Innova OBD scanner and even it cannot get all of the Honda/Acura specific code information. The only code I did read was 84-01 for Neutral Position (DTC 84) not set and the VSA light would always illuminate after the required driving parameters were met for speed and distance. I finally had Acura diagnose the light - they cleared all codes (at no charge!) and test drove it. No codes or lights have come in 3 months since. I haven't yet tested the VSA system in action but I'm thinking that for the past 3 years there was a transient condition that since cleared and only the Acura tool could clear it. The inability of my Innova OBD scanner to not clear the DTC is a bummer. does anyone know of or use a scanner (other than Honda's) that can clear all Honda/Acura DTCs?
If it helps, I just cleared mine yesterday following this method. I used a Autel ML619 (updated model of the Autel AL619). Remember: Car on flat level surface and wheels pointing straight.
If the VSA/exclamation point light comes on, does it throw various different codes that can be pulled? Like ABS and CEL lights. If so, how do you pull the codes? I've tried with my OBD2 scanner but it said no codes were found.
Lately my 2 lights have been coming on simply sitting still at traffic lights. Other times simply just cruising in 3rd gear @ 35/40mph
check your brake fluid levels. I had these same lights come on and it was due to my brake fluid being low (apparently when I bled my brakes, I didn't turn one of the bleeder valves closed, that extra 1/2 turn. It would leak a bit of fluid, only when the brakes were applied. Not saying that is your problem, but it's a quick check just to cross it off the list. You might not be leaking fluid, but as your brake pads get worn down, the fluid in the reservoir would go down a bit also. It might be enough to trigger the sensor.
Same thing happened to me, it’s your oil pressure switch. It’s a limp mode pretty much, it’ll limit your revs to 3,500 rpms when your oil is low or your pressure switch is out.
just had this happen to me and since i didn't want to mess with the ABS, I went to the dealer. Like Taco and Alex, it was brake fluid related. They told me it was my master cylinder and the sensor inside went bad. Registering low fluid even though it was full. I got a 2017 RLX for a loaner...I think thats their way of telling me to get rid of my 2004.
I have the top model of Innova OBD scanner and even it cannot get all of the Honda/Acura specific code information. The only code I did read was 84-01 for Neutral Position (DTC 84) not set and the VSA light would always illuminate after the required driving parameters were met for speed and distance. I finally had Acura diagnose the light - they cleared all codes (at no charge!) and test drove it. No codes or lights have come in 3 months since. I haven't yet tested the VSA system in action but I'm thinking that for the past 3 years there was a transient condition that since cleared and only the Acura tool could clear it. The inability of my Innova OBD scanner to not clear the DTC is a bummer. does anyone know of or use a scanner (other than Honda's) that can clear all Honda/Acura DTCs?
Yes, that’s exactly what I was talking about in my story! I pulled all codes and only found those in the ABS (which is different than your regular ECM scan, not all OBDII scanners have this capability) system, and after I cleared them, it didn’t change anything. I ended up at the Acura dealership and had them check the codes themselves. They didn’t have an explanation as to what was causing the lights to come on, but they cleared them and the lights never came back on, at least during the remainder of the time I owned and drove the car... It would probably still be off today had I not totaled it!
EVERYONE: take your car to an Acura dealership, no matter how old your car is, and have them check/clear the codes. Just like all parts stores, it’s free!
Earl I have had this same issue in my Acura flat for over a year. VSA light comes on intermittently, gauges drop to zero and bounce up and down and the AC stops working. Is this the, problem you fixed by replacing the TCS switch? Is I t expensive to have it done?
Janet were you able to resolve your issue. I'm having exact issue as you.
When I was at the dealer last fall to get my battery replaced under warranty I just had them do a brake line flush since I was already there and it was overdue by a few months. Since I'm planning on keeping my 2016 for a few more years I'm trying to make sure to get all the service done at the time/mileage they recommend. It has been a great vehicle so far and hope it stays that way.
I'm ALSO having this problem. I think I shorted my radio. How do I fix it? I checked all the relevant fuses and didn't find a problem. Did I miss one? I have a 99 RL.
Were you trying to fix a warning light issue? How did the radio get involved? Let us know...
If the radio is shorted and the fuses are good then the issue is most likely inside the radio. Radio replacement or repair will be needed, easier to replace with a salvage in it.
I’ve had this light on for years after a transmission change, brake issue and two tmps deaths. Every time I get my car back that lights on and no mechanic could ever reset it. I used a Foxwell NT630 Plus and ran through a VSA recalibration. The lights finally gone after 5 years and not a single mechanic could figure it out. I watched them lie to my face about every time they swore they reset it or say I needed to change a sensor.
^How did you figure out what to diagnose it with? Just curious.
How much was the Foxwell NT630 Plus?
Well from a mechanic standpoint if everything is running the way it should and when it should then it’s not an issue. The warning light is on at start the the VSA light kicks on while driving. A terrible mechanic will just throw parts at it, a great one troubleshoots. The scanner was on sale i would say 120. It allows you to go into the abs system. I read a DTC logic error code for the light being on to long. It recommended I clear the code. The VSA reset is the only way to do that and the scanner will walk you through it.
I had my brake fluid flushed yesterday (Nov 2, 2019), drove the car twice with no issues and then coming home from church only 4 hours after having the brake fluid flushed the VSA and e=brake lights come on. First the e-brake light then the VSA light with the triangle.
What does the float look like?
What I did so far: I opened the cap to the reservoir and there is nice clear brake fluid all the way up to the top. The car drives normal and brakes normal.
I had my brake fluid flushed yesterday (Nov 2, 2019), drove the car twice with no issues and then coming home from church only 4 hours after having the brake fluid flushed the VSA and e=brake lights come on. First the e-brake light then the VSA light with the triangle.
What does the float look like?
What I did so far: I opened the cap to the reservoir and there is nice clear brake fluid all the way up to the top. The car drives normal and brakes normal.
MY CAR: 2008 TL TYPE S 5AT
check the e-brake it’s self could be a rigging issue and the e brake pads although never used may need to be replaced. That happened to me when I was stationed in Germany. I had to wait two weeks for those to come in so we zip tied the cable and waited.
Richard:The e-brakes worked before and after the flush, I checked it's operation last night. Since I had no issues prior to the flush, I'm assuming that this new condition is somehow related.
In my case the VSA light issue was solved with Servicing my ABS brakes
Originally Posted by mada51589
Hey everyone, I know there are a lot of threads out there about the Triangle with the "!" light, VSA light, ABS light, and Brake light indicators on the dash, but I haven't found anything that exactly fits my situation, and I've used a little bit of each thread to do troubleshooting. So, here's the deal: I have a 06 TL with almost 200k miles. Before mind blowing or boggling begins, its 90% highway miles, I drive 150 miles round trip to my work, 5 days a week (roughly 35k/year). Anyways, I've owned the car since 2011 with 59k miles, I maintain oil changes every 3k miles, which is usually about once a month for me, and always use Full Synthetic oil, either Mobile 1 or Royal Purple(which is overkill, but with my long distance, I need it to be reliable). The transmission fluid gets a flush service at the dealership once a year, and a 3x1 change once every 6 months. Brakes are well maintained, slot & ported rotors, platinum ceramic brake pads, DOT4 (haven't ordered 5.1) flushed once a year.
Recently, I found my rear running lights on, not brake lights like when the brake pedal is pressed, when the car was off & locked. At the time this first occurred, no DTC or ABS codes, or any lights on the dash were on. Disconnected the battery and it went away for a day or so. Then they came on again, still no dash lights or codes on, just the running lights in the rear, and the brake lights worked when you pressed on the brakes. Didn't worry about it too much, I was lazy and didn't investigate too much. After a few weeks, the Triangle "!" light came on while driving home from work. After restarting the car, it didn't come on the rest of my travel home, and not until I arrived at work the next morning......
So now, a few weeks and lots of troubleshooting/researching later, the Triangle "!" light is always on, and after reaching 30-40 mph, the "VSA" light turns on. Note, when I first start the car up and the VSA light hasn't turned on yet, but the Triangle "!" is on, there are no DTC or ABS codes. Once the VSA light turns on, the ABS code 84-1 "Sensor Logic Failure" is produced, but thats it. I clear the ABS code with my OBDII/ABS scanner, and the VSA light clears, but the Triangle "!" light stays on, same thing happens when restarting the car.
Troubleshooting: I have replaced the Brake light switch, the APP Sensor, tested all 4 Transmission Control Solenoids (first unplugging each one and watching a code pop, then taking each one out and applying power to them to feel/hear them click), flushed the entire brake fluid system, cleaned all 4 ABS/Wheel sensors (as well as unplugging each one and watching an ABS code pop), Did a 3x1 transmission fluid change (the oil was dark but not burnt), and the neutral safety switch is working fine.
Before I changed the APP Sensor, the car did do a traction control stutter on take off, but that has been resolved. Also, after changing the neutral safety switch, the running lights issue has been resolved. I have two fairly new(less than a year old) Optima batteries in the car, red top under the hood, and a yellow top in the trunk, (for the sound system), which are at equal amps and tested good on a hard battery test (took the batteries out of the car to test inside the part store rather than that little hand held crap tester). Oh yeah, the HFL unit was removed a long time ago, so battery drain and low voltage are not the problem. Also, the VSA switch/button isn't doing anything, even after holding the button for a long period of time.
Even though these lights are on, the transmission shifts great, the car takes off and stops just fine, and no traction control stutters have occurred. I have a Santech OBDII/ABS scanner that I am using to read and clear the codes... Is it possible that there are codes or clearing methods that a "Honda" scanner would/could do? Does anyone think that this is my transmission going bad or does the VSA control system need to be replaced? Is there anything else that I should check or try replacing? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post! Thank you all!
Well I had the same problem an it cost me $1500.00 sove the problem. I will save you that money.
If you get a 84-01 code the abs sensor is complaining that he can't get accurate reading.
step 1 try reseting the abs code. If does not go off then you have real issue. Please check you rear brake and Service them. If there rust, brake dust, salt or other debris you need to clean them. After cleaning the lights should go off. (This was my case). I also tried neutral position VSA resetting and this did not solve my problem. My acura dealer wanted charge me $250 for this service. Later he dropped to $140 for running diagnostics to identify that my rear ABS sensor were covered with rust and gauk from the street. If one you brakes is jammed this will trigger traction control causing the VSA light to show up. Good luck.
Hey, this is what I found was the issue with my 04 TL. I had this issue on two occasions. The first time it was the APP sensor had gone bad at about 180k miles. The second time it happened was at about 195k miles, it ended up being one of my rear brake calipers was busted and therefore it was not engaging the rear brake on that side. I had replaced this caliper about two years earlier, but it appears I purchased an inferior product from the auto parts stores as it was a rebuilt caliper and it didn't last. This time I upgraded to a better caliper.
Hey, this is what I found was the issue with my 04 TL. I had this issue on two occasions. The first time it was the APP sensor had gone bad at about 180k miles. The second time it happened was at about 195k miles, it ended up being one of my rear brake calipers was busted and therefore it was not engaging the rear brake on that side. I had replaced this caliper about two years earlier, but it appears I purchased an inferior product from the auto parts stores as it was a rebuilt caliper and it didn't last. This time I upgraded to a better caliper.
A caliper has nothing to do any instrument lights. They have no sensors.
Success FINALLY!!!! Replacing a faulty TCS switch did the trick. I then did the VSA neutral position memorization procedure. Problem resolved. No need to go to the dealer to clear this code if you have some patience. No more idiot lights!!! YEA...
what a tcs switch? and this is happening in my 2006 mdx now
03-11-2016, 04:15 AM
Within a week after my accident, I went out and bought a 4G, 2012 TL Tech FWD with just 48k elderly loved miles on her. Funny thing is, I was looking through 4G threads and this thread popped up as "Similar", although totally unrelated topic. 
