TL at 117K. What should I replace?

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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 04:16 AM
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Question TL at 117K. What should I replace?

I've had my TL since December of 2008. And it's been an awesome car. I've modded it and done other things as seen in my signature. But now the car has 117K on the body. And 105 on the engine.

Now I've been hearing a literal (1)squeak sound coming from the front end somewhere in the suspension. It's gotten worse and worse and every time I go over any sort of bump let it be harsh or not, it squeaks. Another thing is, I feel every time I go around a corner like the (2)front end buckles a bit. It's steering feeling compared to the way it used to be is very numb. I feel a (3)vibrating feeling coming from the front end as well. I can feel it very much through the steering wheel mostly. I believe this is just worn out suspension components in need of replacement. Another issue is when I turn the wheel and make a turn I can (4)hear a clicking sound coming from the axle or the CV. (Click...second pause click etc) Is the CV finally going bad? And it does indeed have 117K on it after all.

Another thing is. I've noticed that even at a standstill the car vibrates the seats more than it used to. Not harsh or anything. Could this be because of the exhaust? I would love feedback on this.

What parts do I need for a full suspension tune up? I'd appreciate some thoughts or ideas. :P And I just installed the A-Spec suspension about a month ago. So my guess is all the other components are finally going.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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Do the 105k Timing belt and Tune Up.

Probably need engine mounts.

Suspension might need to be looked at. Shocks/Struts. CV boots might be torn on the axles. So time to replace.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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So the car had a new engine installed at 12,000 miles? What happened to require that?
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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1)Have your steering rack checked out. That would be a good place to start to investigate your binding and numbness. I would jack the car in the air, turn the engine on, and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, while you sit next to the wheel and observe what's going on. Binding can be caused by something that might be bent so that is what you're looking for.

2)Steering wheel vibration can be caused by warped rotors, warped wheels, steering rack messed up, unbalanced wheels, alignment out of wack, bent suspension compnents, or bent axles.

3)The clicking sound can be either the CV axle or the wheel bearing. If none of the axle boots are torn then I would bet that the wheel bearing is starting to go.

4)If your car vibrates while sitting and idleing and stops once you're driving then the cause would be your motor mounts. After 100k mile I would expect them to start going bad.

Since you have so many questions about alot of different things possibly wrong with the car it might be worth it to take it to the dealer and let them do a XX-point inspection. They'll check all of the steering and suspension stuff.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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I greatly appreciate you all helping me out. I just WONDER how much it's all gonna cost. I know the alignment is fine. And the strut bars and the struts themselves have been replaced already. So my guess is yeah bent suspension components and a load of other issues.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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The timing belt, water pump, etc is about a $1000 job. Engine mounts, if all need replaced, is probably $600-$900.

So you are looking at at least $1,600 for those, plus the other problems.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BradE
The timing belt, water pump, etc is about a $1000 job. Engine mounts, if all need replaced, is probably $600-$900.

So you are looking at at least $1,600 for those, plus the other problems.


Yeah I kinda thought it'd be in that area. My real concern is the suspension at this very moment. The engine has 105 I bet I can push it another 5K until I have more $$.

So the suspension is going to cost 1K as well probably who knows maybe more.. + the other things you have mentioned.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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Curious question. Would I be able to replace the remaining components with the Type S suspension parts? Has this been done? Because I'd rather have higher duty parts on there, than base TL.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
So the car had a new engine installed at 12,000 miles? What happened to require that?
Pretty much to answer your question. The previous owner whom I despise, didnt change the oil enough or just....didnt change it. And the entire inside of the engine was all shot and black looking where compared to say the new engine, it's all golden with synthetic. So Acura replaced it under warranty after a long 2 month battle with them tinkering with the old engine.

It was replaced @77K and they gave me another engine with 60K on it. And since then I havent had a single machanical problem with it. Never heard really any weird knocks. I have a video of the old engine and it knocks like HELL. Sometime I need to post that up again. I have a thread I made all about the problem.

I keep up on fluids all the time keeping them at their best. I change the ATF every so often, about every 2-3 oil changes. And I keep all fluids topped off and get the brake lines flushed on a usual basis. So I dont see why anything bad would happen to this car like the previous owner did.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RJNN TL
Yeah I kinda thought it'd be in that area. My real concern is the suspension at this very moment. The engine has 105 I bet I can push it another 5K until I have more $$.

So the suspension is going to cost 1K as well probably who knows maybe more.. + the other things you have mentioned.
I wouldn't push it, if the belt slips or snaps, the engine is trashed.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BradE
I wouldn't push it, if the belt slips or snaps, the engine is trashed.
he should not have any problems since his replacement engine at 77K had only 60K on it so he should be able to go an additional 17K pas `105K or change it at 122K
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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So it's either I put that 3500 into my current TL or just go and buy a TL-S for 23K and put some down payments. I'd have a newer car. With 49K. I wonder. Can i take my ATLP parts and put them into the TL-S? Like my entire exhaust set up? Shouldnt it just bolt right on?
Could someone look at my signature and tell me what would swap easily over to the Type S? That'd be fantastic.
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