How much should I expect to pay for sway bar repair on 2005 TL? Is it a job that could be done at home?

 

why are you replacing the sway bar? Are you upgrading or just replacing what was there? More info please! At most you probably just needing new endlinks and possibly bushings.

This help? I'm thinking you need items 004(x2) 006 007

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no


Endlinks can be a bitch to get off so if you're not familiar with the job or don't have the right tools, I'd probably not start this and not be able to finish.

 

actually, its very easy to replace.

the hardest part is fishing out/in the bar.

but agreed with vill0169, this isnt a part that usually goes bad. the end links, yes. butt not the sway bar itself.

 

Well yeah the bar itself will practically fall out the back when it's completely disconnected but I'm still kinda curious why it needs replacing in the first place? Hoping some dealer didn't tell her it'll be a $500 job to replace a somewhat unnecessary rear sway bar because one the bushings ripped.

 

Just had my oil changed and the guy said that the sway bar wasn't attached on the drivers side. Hey - I'm a girl - I don't know better! What should I do?

Thanks -

oh - and he told me it would probably be over $1200 to fix.
true? or BS?

D

 

Honestly girl - leave it. It's just an endlink which is about $15 and probably another $30-$50 to install it depending on the shop(which will probably try to talk you into both of them too by the way). It's not that much but I can almost guarantee that your driving style is not one that is counting on a rear sway bar at all.

So, of course its your car, you decide but just note that many cars don't even come with sway bar so it's not like you're going to go skidding off the road now that you know this.

Good luck chica!


What did I tell you! lol Boy I called that one. Don't give them a penny and never take your car there again. They're just trying to take advantage of you....

 

agreed, the endlinks are a simple job and shouldnt cost more than $60 in labor.

 

If it's just an end link:
MEVOTECH Part # MK90343 Rear Left $11.82

Better have someone else look at the problem as it could be more complicated, but nowhere near the price quoted.

 

What part of the swaybar wasn't attached? Maybe a pic of the area could help a little more? I am thinking that it could possibly be a tear where the bushings are on the rear subframe(it has happened before, but usually with aftermarket swaybar)..Just a thought, hope that you get it resolved, especially if it is the endlinks.


Villo-good point below, I missed the "driver's side" comment. Endlinks it is!

 

Just had my oil changed and the guy said that the sway bar wasn't attached on the drivers side. Hey - I'm a girl - I don't know better! What should I do?

Thanks -



99% it's the endlink.

 

What the heck does "wasn't attached" mean-- that a bolt, end link or bar itself broke or what? If you're told of a problem involving a broken part, have the mechanic show you.
You can photograph it and post it here for us to see for a 2nd opinion, FWIW.

In this case, based on the ridiculous estimate, get a new shop. If you're a member of AAA, go to one of its approved shops and get the sway bar evaluated.
FYI, a whole new rear sway bar is less than $300 (good aftermarket ones are less than $200), not including end links. Labor should run an hour or less ($55-$130-- whatever is the rate in your locale).

G/L, and welcome to AZ.

 

As noted, total and need more info. Pics even better.

These guys are right that it's almost certain the end-links. But without info/pics cannot completely rule out a broken weld where the Rear Sway Bar bracket mounts to the sub-frame.

It's very unlikely the sway bar itself is damaged in either case, but I suppose it could be.

Regardless, you're being charged WAY too much.

Also, if I were you, I would definitely get it repaired. At best you've probably got some clunking/banging going on back there. At worst you need to make an emergency manuever and the car doesn't repsond quite as well as it should.

 

Now - don't laugh, but when you guys say "rear" sway bar do you mean at the rear of the front of the car (under the hood) right? Not like at the rear of the car b/c I don't think he looked back there.

Thanks for the info - at least this lets me know what questions to ask the guys I take the car to. Very helpful.

Also, since I'm here - when I get to about 40mph the car shimmies, just a bit. Once over 40, it's fine. I've taken the car in twice to have the tires checked and they say the tire alignment and balance is fine. Is this something I should worry about? or where should I take it?


you guys are great - thanks for the insight

 

Rear Sway Bar is a suspension component located between the two rear wheels - roughly under the trunk.

If you're talking about the Front Sway Bar, that's another kettle of fish and more difficult to access. But I've NEVER heard of a Front Sway Bar breaking it's end links or brackets.

The Front Sway Bar is between the two front wheels and roughly under the engine compartment.

Wonder if he's talking about a failed compliance bushing?

 

There is a front [anti-]sway bar as well-- prices for the bar and links are about the same as for the rear. It's more likely for the rear sway bar links to break than for the fronts to do so.

The front sway bar is below the engine towards the front of the car; the rear sway bar is under the trunk. Both bars are about 1" diameter, cross the width of the car between the wheels and have some bends to clear other components.

What do you mean "shimmies"-- do you mean the car feels loose or sways a little, or do you mean vibrates or shakes?

If it's an actual shimmy or loose feeling, it may be a sway bar issue or broken front end link-- which would cost about the same or just a tad more to fix as the rear-- in your case; have a trustworthy mechanic look at it.

Another common reason for a shimmy is misalignment of the rear tires on the TL-- too much difference in the toe measurements. An alignment shop will give "before" and "after" printouts of measurements for each wheel.

Vibrating or shaking is more likely a wheel or balance issue...

 

ABOSOLUTE TOTAL BS. being a girl doesn't necessarily mean you are a typical girl. you can learn a lot on here if you are willing.

the end links for front or back whould cost no more than $20-25 (for OEM). the labor, the dealer should ONLY be charging you the one hour book time to install endlinks (going rate here, $117/hr). it may only take them like 20-30 min, but that's the book time. its an easy swap if you have the tools, but if you don't have the DIY resources, find a reputable mechanic or a different dealer, that won't take advantage of you.

as far as the "shimmy" you may have to be a bit more specific. do you feel it in the car or the steering wheel? at steady speed or accelerating?

for $1200 i better be getting my timing belt replaced too along with that endlink geez.

everything the guys are telling you is spot on, so no worries, we try and take care of each other on here.

just an aside, knowledge is power as a girl going to the mechanic. know what you need done, and don't put up with crap (esp, the it'll cost you $1200 for an end link, or whatever other unnecessary service they are recommending). spend enough time on here and you'll learn a lot (just don't get lured to the "darkside" ie modding).

 

ya'll have been so very helpful. Thank you!!