Rear Caliper Replacement
Rear Caliper Replacement
After a 20 mile drive home last night, I smelled burning brakes. Sure enough my driver's rear wheel was too hot to touch while the passenger side was cold. Not unexpected, so off to Autozone to buy two calipers, some fluid, and a bleeding kit. I opened up the bleeders with the old calipers still attached and the fluid was in pretty good condition. I bled the rear brakes last year when I replaced my front brakes. Swapped out the calipers, cleaned the pads, greased them, and put it all back together. Now trying to bleed and I am seeing fluid leaking out the back of the caliper. I have snugged down that bolt back there, but not sure how tight it is supposed to be.
- How tight is that bolt supposed to be?
- It is expected to have a copper washer on both sides of the brake line correct?
- Any other tricks here?
Notes:
- yes, I am aware Autozone is not the "recommended" supplier, but I needed parts today
- I have searched and already read the DIY but didn't find this particular issue
- How tight is that bolt supposed to be?
- It is expected to have a copper washer on both sides of the brake line correct?
- Any other tricks here?
Notes:
- yes, I am aware Autozone is not the "recommended" supplier, but I needed parts today
- I have searched and already read the DIY but didn't find this particular issue
Pretty sure the "bolt" is the banjo bolt and looks like the FSM says 25lb-ft. Now to go find my torque wrench and see if I know how to use it.
Hoping this isn't the real solution.....I still have the old parts, just need to go take a closer look at the sizes of everything.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post16434891
Hoping this isn't the real solution.....I still have the old parts, just need to go take a closer look at the sizes of everything.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post16434891
Last edited by Jackass; Jun 23, 2019 at 04:43 PM.
^
'03 CLS6 Helms manual states 25lbf-ft for Rear caliper Banjo Bolt torque, can't see how it would be much different for your TL. It shows two 'sealing washers', one on either side of the banjo.
'03 CLS6 Helms manual states 25lbf-ft for Rear caliper Banjo Bolt torque, can't see how it would be much different for your TL. It shows two 'sealing washers', one on either side of the banjo.
I found my torque wrench and hit those with 25lbft....it moved another half turn or so. No more leaks. I bled them again, topped off the resivoir and took it for a spin. While I was under the hood I sucked out lots of the crap fluid in the clutch master as well and poured in fresh fluid.
Will leave it in the garage tonight to see if anything weeps out over night. I managed to get all four rotors well over 300F just driving through the neighborhood constantly starting and stopping. Then took it out for a nice cool down spin down the main roads.
Will leave it in the garage tonight to see if anything weeps out over night. I managed to get all four rotors well over 300F just driving through the neighborhood constantly starting and stopping. Then took it out for a nice cool down spin down the main roads.
Copper washers sometimes leak, according some mechanics. When I replaced the 2 rear calipers on my AV6, I used OEM aluminum washers, 2 on each side. There is no more trick there, swap the line over and torque it to 25 ft-lb as fast as possible because brake fluid would start filling into the threads then you'll have inconsistent torque value. If it still leaks, then try teflon tape around the top portion of the threads, just don't cover up the fluid hole on the banjo bolt.
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