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I kept on hearing squealing coming from my brakes and decided to investigate it.
Yep frozen rear right caliper. I couldn't even get it to move with a couple channel-locks and a piece of flatbar. Easy solution. I order new brake calipers from RockAuto.com. (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=355). And the Powerstop rotor and pad kit. (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=426). My right rear brake rotor was glazed like a Krispy Kreme donut. Finally, a break from class and work, and I start on the left rear rotor.
EXPLETIVE!
$180 for an skf hub and bearing assembly and shop time to put it on. (Don't have the tools or confidence to do it myself).
Two days later...
Look at the superb glaze!
Rotor was rusted to the hub. Just keeps on with the tomf*ckery. Two M8 bolts run on with my impact breaks the rotor free. Cleaned up the hub with some blaster and a toothbrush. New rotors on and New caliper on.
These coated calipers required me to run the bolts through the threaded bits to take the coating off before I installed it. Didn't want to play nice when I tried to mount it. Bled the brakes with the help of my friend. An hour and 15 minutes later, everything installed, brake pads are broken in, and the rotors look way better on the car.
Looks way better! Ignore the dirtiness of the car. Pollen is still frosting everything so I'm waiting to clean my car. After I drove it, there was a significant increase in braking power. Surprised me how much quality rotors and pads make a difference.
The difference between the old ceramic brake pads. I had been riding on this for quite sometime apparently. ~$350 later I've learned an expensive lesson: check your bits
Last edited by Joseph Butts; 03-31-2019 at 03:57 PM.
My right rear caliper just seized up yesterday. I have the same project planned. How do you like these parts? Are you happy with the caliper and the install?
Appreciate the post and pics.
I service my rear brakes every 6 months, take it apart, remove rust under the brake hardware, re-lube pins. Never seize again, not in the last 4 years. If you leave the rears go, they will seize because of the mounting location of the calipers, toward the rear of the car where dirt get kicked up into it. It looks like you haven't touched that thing for years, even the boot around the piston lifted.
I had an issue with my left rear caliper. It didn't freeze but it was dragging. This was around 280k miles. I replaced the caliper, rotor, and pads and still get a little noise even after 50k put on it. Right rear has been fine.
My right rear caliper just seized up yesterday. I have the same project planned. How do you like these parts? Are you happy with the caliper and the install?
Appreciate the post and pics.
The caliper seems to be doing well, and the coating is holding up well. I prefer not seeing the dirty aluminum oem ones. The install wasn't hard at all, but you'll want a friend to help bleed the caliper and 3/8"ID tubing if I remember correctly. The banjo bolt for the caliper had a larger hole, and the caliper came with a copper washer. I just reused the old oem one and no leaks so far (5k miles).
I service my rear brakes every 6 months, take it apart, remove rust under the brake hardware, re-lube pins. Never seize again, not in the last 4 years. If you leave the rears go, they will seize because of the mounting location of the calipers, toward the rear of the car where dirt get kicked up into it. It looks like you haven't touched that thing for years, even the boot around the piston lifted.
I haven't had the time and money to properly take care of my car for the past couple of years. Now I'm able to. Lots of heavy sighs when going through and checking the bits.
In the future if you break off a rear wheel stud, you only need to replace the stud, not the whole hub.
Just remove the rotor, grab a sledgehammer and knock the broken piece of wheel stud into the hub and fish it out with your fingers.
Putting in the new one isn't hard either. Just maneuver it through the E-Brake components and feed it back through the hole.
It'll fasten itself in properly once you've put your wheel back on and torqued your lug nuts.
Speaking of which, those bottom two wheel studs look mangled. You only need to tighten them to 80 ft/lbs.
That would've been nice to know. I torqued the lug nuts properly, but they bent/stretched/mangled. Not sure if torque bar is needing to be re-calibrated or if they had metal fatigue.
That would've been nice to know. I torqued the lug nuts properly, but they bent/stretched/mangled. Not sure if torque bar is needing to be re-calibrated or if they had metal fatigue.
Looks like someone drove on severely loosened lug nuts.
03-31-2019, 03:54 PM
. I torqued the lug nuts properly, but they bent/stretched/mangled. Not sure if torque bar is needing to be re-calibrated or if they had metal fatigue.
