godfather18

iTrader: (1)

My check engine light came on and I went to get the codes read and the codes are p0135 and P0155. I know its one of the oxygen sensors but dont which ones they are. Can someone lead me in the right direction.

MonkeyTrucker

http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0135-and-P0155

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

Found the issue there was a blown fuse inside the cabin under the dash. I reset the ECU and the light went away. I wonder why a fuse would even blow that controls the sensors????

Manimal_Forever

Keep an eye out, rarely do fuses just blow for no reason.

LS_GRINDSEASON

Hello all,
Im having the same trouble with the sensors (0155-0135). which fuse did you blow? what else can i check? i have replaced the sensors already.

helmsrj

Just had the same issue P0155, P0135 and P0498. The fuse is in the driver side fuse box under the dash by your left foot. The fuse is number 4 on the little chart description thing it is labeled LAF and it is a 15 AMP mini fuse blue in color.

Acura_TL2012

I also have same problem 2012 Acura TL Check Emission System with DTCs P0498 P0135 P0155? What fuse did you have to replace, please help me out?

Acura_TL2012

what fuse did you replace?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

uhh the one that is blown, captain obvious.

you'll need to check EACH and every fuse to see which one has blown.

ehawk01

I am having a similar problem. I was looking for a parasitic draw on the battery and pulling fuses to see when the voltage would drop. After finding the circuit with the draw I noticed my CEL on.
I hooked up my diag tool and see PO135 and PO155. I cleared the fault codes and the immediately return. It seems like something is shorted to me since the faults come back immediately. If the sensors were bad, wouldn't it take a few minutes before the fault registered again? Besides Fuse4 where else should I check?

OnlyDaanish

I have the same issue now. Did u find where the short was?

peter6

Codes are for 2 out of 4 sensors, B1S1 and B2S1.

12V is supplied to all 4 of the sensor through one fuse (under-dash #4 15A) and one relay (also under-dash fuse box).
If relay or fuse is bad (for example because of the short somewhere) you would have codes for all 4 sensors.

Need to get to the sensor and check it out. Good heater would have like 2-4 Ohms. If that passes, back probe the sensor's plug when sensor is connected and make sure it had good ground and good 12v. (might need a bi-directional scan tool to actually force the heater close to 100%)
I think upstream sensors might take more current than downstream, so if there's bad ground or bad power supply, those codes will set before downstream oxygen sensors.