i took my car about a month ago to get my oil change, the dealer changed it and reset the oil life to 100%. yesterday when i turn my car on and alot of blue smoke came from the exhaust. then while driving i notice the oil light on the dash board was blinking so i pulled over and check the oil on the car . the dip stick was empty, it appeared there wasnt any oil on the car. so i bought 3 quarts and filled it up untill the dip stick was reach to its line. and the oil light went away but i smell like burn oil while driving and when i accelarate the car alil while its in park it seems like blue smoke comes out the exhaust. i called the dealer and the lady i know said to bring it in tomorrow and they'll check it out .. also the car does not leak oil i always check if there is oil in the ground and nope there's never any. has anyone has this problem ??? could it be that the oil acura uses is to thin and it evaporates for the engine heat?

 

i forgot to mention that my oil life now it 80%

 

How many miles are on the car?

It's burning oil. It could be from several things. Bad valve seals, worn out valve guides, the rings are worn and the oil is getting past the rings, etc. First thing I would check is the PCV valve and make sure it's working correctly and isn't clogged.

 

Did the dealer even put oil back in?

 

The car has 66k. Tomorrow I have an appointment with the dealer. Ill keep y'all posted after I find out what they say.

 

Oil doesn't evaporate, but an engine can burn it up. Hopefully you don't get bad news from the dealer.

 

or leak out.. in for an update from the OP.

 

So I took the car to acura this morning and didn't hear anything from them today, I'm going to call in the morning hopefully i don't get bad new :/

 

Sounds like a head gasket problem Bro..

 

today i got the call.. and it was nothing but bad news.. she said something in my engine let loose and my engine is going bad. now i have to find an engine asap ...

 

seriously? you need to talk to the tech, if a service writer told me that I'd laugh in their face.. or say something really crass.

Tell them you want the compression & leak down test results.

 

Call Acura client services and file a complaint. If it's a stock motor, there is no chance in hell there should be an internal failure with 66k miles on it.

 

not necessarily.. the ring land & valvetrain design aren't the most versatile on the J's.. OP are you SC'd? ever over rev your engine or drive hard often? Ever use regular gasoline?

also, how long have you owned the car? what is the maintenance history?

 

I never drove the car hard and I owned the car alil more then 1 year. The car previosuly was a flood car but I never had a problem with it... all the electronic parts in the car was changed... can I still make a claim with acura even though it a R title?

 

Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but probably not. Most manufacturers will not honor any warranty claims (even though you are already over the mileage) on a salvage or rebuilt titled car.

 

rebuilt title on a flood vehicle!? damn.. you should still verify what the issue is, get the pressure readings.

 

reminds me when toyota forgot to put oil in my moms old 93 turbo supra, engine was all f-d up and she got rid of the car and got a truck...i can never forgive her for that

seems like they did the same thing and forgot to add oil

 

not in the OP's case.. his oil was changed a month ago & he's noticing blue smoke out the exhaust which means he's burning it.

 

so i went engine hunting and a buddy of mines who owns a salvage yard is selling me an engine for 800 with 72k on it. guess i found me a new engine. every other places wanted 1200 to 1400 for the same engine.

 

You need to verify several things.. first off, does it include the transmission?

 

it has the tranny on it but im not buying it .

 

I can think of about 10 things you did not ask the dealer that you should've. I've never seen someone go down this easy. I can only assume you did something you're not telling us to hurt the engine.

BTW if the water got into the engine while running its common to slightly bend a rod which will cause more piston cylinder ring and wall wear and eventually end with the rod through the block.

Most likely the dealer screwed it up. It was run without oil long enough to wear the rings to the point of burning oil.

 

besides driving the car to school and home what else wrong have i done.

 

OP bought a flood car, per post #14.

Personally, I'd be suspicious of the dealer too.

 

I would've thought the same but it sounds like he didn't even question or ask for details on the supposed failure

If we have the type of failure and some details we can probably figure out the cause.

What came first, the failure or lack of oil. . .

The super vague description makes it sound like the dealer to me.

 

OP is 19.. if he's smart he'll investigate the issue more & use the resources here.

OP, get a dialogue going with the service shop so all the details are known. We can tell you what you should inquire about.

 

today i went to get a second opinion to see what was wrong from a well recommended machanic here in philly. he said that my engine wasnt bad.. he told me to change the oil to 10w 30 because the 5w 20 that acura puts on it is to thin, and when the car is hot its even thinner. and he said after a week if it still burning oil to come back to him and he'll change the PCV valve. my question is whats a PCV vavle? and does this sounds right?

 

I'm glad you got a second opinion but as much as I hate 20wt oil, that's not the reason it's smoking. There is damage done if the PRESSURE light came on. It was the pressure, right? I can't remember if our cars have a low level indicator.

The 10w-30 may slow it down and I recommend a 30wt anyway but at this point it would just be a band-aid covering up the problem.

The PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation. There's a PCV valve on the valvecover that's a simple check valve with a little ball and spring that keeps the vapors moving out of the crankcase to be burned in the combustion chamber. It also meters the amount of vapors entering the engine.

This can cause the oil consumption but not likely. If the system is completely plugged which would be impossible unless you plugged off the fresh air side (the hose coming from the air intake pipe) the crankcase could pressurize and oil would get past the rings. More than likely it would develop oil leaks too.

In hindsight, you should've drained anything that was left and sent it out for a UOA. This would tell the age and condition of the oil. You would've had them by the balls if this showed the oil had not been changed or severely beaten up.

Are there any noises coming from the engine yet?

Remember, the catalytic convertors and 02 sensors are going to be ruined over time with oil burning.

Where I would start is pulling the spark plugs yourself, don't rely on anyone else to be honest and see if it's burning oil. You can post pictures on here if you like and we'll tell you what they're doing.

I know I came across the wrong way in my first post, I just get tired of people getting ripped off. At 19 I just took it and I had so many people take money from me that now I may be a little bitter.

 

yea the oil indicator was blinking and as soon as i seen it i pulled over and check it out and the dip stick was empty, i put oil in and the indicator went away. but ill check out the spark plugs and post up the pictures when i check them..

i change the oil today to the 10w 30 and before i had change it their was a ticking sound coming from the engine while it was idling and while acceleration i will hear it but now i dont here that ticking sound anymore.

 

Has it slowed down or stopped smoking?

 

update?

 

It's not (or wasn't) over mileage for Drive Train warranty. But he's screwed by the Salvage Title regardless.