solo79

hi everyone,

so i bought my 2006 tl last year at 90k,everything worked great until today.I did do the 3rd and 4th gears switches and made 3x3 redline atf racing flush at 120k that was 8k ago.Today i drove to work and didn t notice anything diffent ,so when i finish work i put it in reverse and it didnt go into gear until 30 sec,so i put back into park and waited to warm the car a little more.after getting on to the road i notice it wouldn t get into 2nd gear i was like what the hell.I keep on driving for afew more blocks,but sometimes it did go in 2nd gear but not higher then that.I didn t want to take any chances so i called a towing to bring to my mechanic to take alook at it tomorrow.
So my question here is, what happen here is the tranny gone? I was thinking to go back to the new oem fliud would this help?it dose still go into gear but takes about 20-40 sec befor it dose but wont switch to a higher gears. No check engine light came out. Any help would be great

Mike

erdoc48

Stupid question (maybe)- ATF level normal?

solo79

I didn t check the atf level will check tomorrow.It was freezing today -25 ,maybe that had something to do with it.

xander569

Uhmmmm I think there's a few threads about problems with redline racing ATF fluid... Search for "optimal amount of racing ATF" or something like that.

You might be in trouble, I believe having only racing ATF has caused some transmission failures. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

im one of the guys whose transmission failed because of the redline racing fluid...im afraid to put anything other than oem dw-1 fluid in my car now after i got the transmission rebuilt.

LeX860

sounds like same issue i had, went to dealership for belt and pump service and when i tried to pull out their garage my car wouldnt move AT ALL. it ussually jus stall for a couple secs, but this time i had it in park then drive and it jus wouldn't go, now i need a new transmission. Guy looked at it and said would be around 3500 w/labor.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Don't even want to get started on the fluid debate, but I'd check the level and replace the filter if it hasn't been done., then give it a try.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/5at-filter-cartridge-731052/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/c-026-diy-changing-atf-pics-745892/

Majofo

jda123

Take a look at the plug and see if it is full of debris. Fluid too.

Will it do anything when it is warm?

You might have clogged/restricted solenoid filter screens that just need cleaned. The solenoids are just as important as anything.

If the fluid is not full of chunks and debris, then do the rest of the important stuff:

Filter change
Solenoid and screen cleaning

It might not matter, but I would look at some of it. Your mechanic should be able to tell you what is wrong with it instead of "it needs replaced."

solo79

So this morning i went to the garage to see what was going on,i check the atf level and it was fine.My mechanic even tryed to see if he got any thing from the ecu , got nothing. The car still wouldn t go in to gear,so we decided to change the atf 2 time befor doing anything else. The first drain he did the oil still looked red but very thick,as soon as he put the new dw-1 fliud from acura and he tryed to put it in drive the gear went in right away.He did another flush ,then i took it for a drive all gears are running smooth look like it back to normal. I gusse redline racing atf dosen t work well in cold climites, but what do i know! I am going to stick with dw-1 fluid and do another flush at the next oil change.

cherplex

iTrader: (3)

^^^Glad to hear, I plan on doing a 3x3 soon did one 50K ago with oem fluid and plan on doing the same.

jda123

I am nearly positive that it was mentioned a bunch of times in the threads that the lightweight racing or dex/merc III fluid was probably better for cold climates.

In any case, I am glad that you don't need a new transaxle.

Any guess to the percentage that the dealer would have said "broken" and wanted to replace it? I am at 85%.

Majofo

I hate cars

No, it didn't. You had other issues and you guess that it was the fluid.
So you used straight racing fluid in -25 weather? Looking at the viscosity calculator, the racing fluid is several times thicker than factory fluid at that temp. It was flat out too thick to get through all of the small passages.

DW-1 is not the cure, running the correct viscosity for your climate is. If you had done a 2:1 ratio of lightweight with racing you would never have had a problem.

Of course, this will be added to the anti-Redline list. For the guys that don't read the previous threads and don't want to mix but want to use a Type F fluid, use Amsoil's Super Shift. It's the same viscosity as factory.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Soory about the yelling but,
CHANGE THE FILTER!!!!!

Not only is the fluid thicker when cold, the filter can be restrictive enough to not allow proper flow, have seen it many times.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

Simply put,

Warm areas: Type-F is neat.
Cold/seasonal areas: just go with standard Redline D4

I've been running D4 in my tranny for 3 years in Wisconsin and never had a problem in winter.

I hate cars

Not exactly. "Type F" defines the frictional properties of the fluid, not the viscosity. Redline chose to make theirs thicker because it was assumed it would be used under racing conditions and run hotter than normal.

You can run Type F in any temperature, just stick with anything that's not Redline or mix the Redline lightweight Type F with the regular Type F to get the desired viscosity.

D4 has very different frictional properties. And again D4 is a Dextron III fluid which describes the frictional properties, not the viscosity.

solo79

well i did do 3x3 atf change during the summer,guess i miss the part to do it 2:1 ratio with lightweight for colder weather.

I am glad that i didn t damage anything mechanical.

solo79

I will order that tomorrow and get that insatall during the weekend

thanks

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

When you get it replaced, let's see a picture of the old filter.