Not sure why but my battery keeps dying on me. It is the original acura battery and says 100 months. Well my car is an 07 so I'm pretty sure I am well under 100 months. I've jumped it 3 times and the last time I took a volt meter reading. With the car running the voltage goes from 13.8 to 11.8. I've never seen an alternator do that. Anybody seen this? Is it normal for acura?

 

you're like the nth person to report a battery/starting issue.

very few acura batteries will actually last the full 100mos. i got 3 yrs on the my first one and 39 mos on my 2nd one. some get 6 mos....a few get 5 yrs. most die within 3-5 yrs.

you have an 07...it's almost 5 yrs (assuming you're on the original factory battery)...just get a new battery and save yourself the aggravation. some die with flickering of the lights, some just die for no reason.

 

I think its the alternator or something like that (would be a weak battery also)....

take it to a Advance Auto Parts and they will do a full check up for you for FREEEE

so you will know if its the battery or the alternator....

 

Well I thought it was the battery and took to acura since it's supposed to last 100 months. They said the battery was good and it was a short in my drivers door lock actuator. They would need to replace it for only $400. Of course I said no. I'll take to auto zone for an alternator check.

 

^^^ yeah get the check....

a quick check for the door actuator can be:
does your door unlock/lock with the key
does your door unlock/lock with the remote
does your door unlock/lock with pressing/pulling the lock pin on the door
when you lock the door do all the lights turn off ?
when you unlock the door does the light come on ?

and if all this is working fine, i would assume your door actuator is fine...

 

I have the same issue drawing about 300mA.

If I pull fuse 32 it drops to nothing. I also have the HFL, navigation display, navigation unit and Head Unit pulled. So the only thing left for me is the MICU which from what I've read is part of the under dash fuse panel.

 

Mod's, why did this get moved into the 2G sub-forum?

 

I'm having the same problem. It cant be my battery though because i have long replaced the factory battery. This is my 3rd one. Its like something is staying on in the car when it is completely off keys removed

 

like a short in the door switches would do!

 

Fuse 32 should only have power supplied to it with the key on. A 300ma drain is irrelevant if it's only there with the key on. It also feeds the accesory power socket relay, which should be energized with the key on and is probably a 100-200ma draw.

 

Yeah, you're right. I meant to say Fuse 7 and there are other things connected to it.

 

At first I thought it was my HFL not shutting down like others suggested so I removed fuse #6. That didnt work. My battery is less then 2 years old so I didn't think it would be the battery So I finally took it to Auto Zone. Turns out my second battery from the Acura Dealer has a dead cell. Called the dealer and he said I should bring in the car so they can make sure its really a dead cell. I asked him if they replace my battery under warrantee will I have to pay for a prorated battery? He said no. Should I believe him? Is he going to hit me for hourly charge or something?

 

I Had the same problem with my Type-S. It is in fact your HFL Unit. Acura wanted to charge me 180 to deactivate it, but instead of paying it, i did it myself.

 

Yep all that is fine and working. I might have a short somewhere or bad alt.

On a side note my HFL is not working and from researching here when it goes to booting up mode that can kill the battery. It guess it keeps drawing after the key is removed. I may try disconnecting it too.

 

^^^ is your HFL warm even after your car being off for couple hours ?

try disconnecting your HFL completely to see if it saves ur battery.....

 

Ok update time. I had the car checked at the dealer and they said the battery was fine. Records show it was replaced in 09 before I bought the car. They said nothing was wrong and sent me on my way. With the car running I checked how many volts the alt was putting out. It seemed to waver a little but was in the higher 13+ volts. I noticed at this time the positive battery connector looked a little distorted. I haven't really taken the connector office much but it didn't seem to be on very tight and was distored so it wouldn't clamp down very well. Battery terminal was fine and free of corrosion. I decided to buy a fancy gold plated battery connector. You know like the guys with huge bass systems have. Well that seemed to cure my problem. Car seems to start up faster due to better connection and battery hasn't died in more than a week.

 

Glad to hear.
But i had my battery replaced about 10 months ago and just saw the tsb
here is the link:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-057.pdf