You need to do a compression test and stop the guessing....that will point out to 2 things...ur bottom end, or you're heads.
Removing the oil cap while idling, have you noticed any excessive steam/smoke come out?
Check that out..

Something tells me it ain't the heads/valves. Sorry but just preparing you.

 

If its just the 5-6 cylenders, swap coils from good ones or buy new ones and see if it goes away, it could be bad coils/spark plugs.

I would defiantly get a compression test.

Also from putting on the TURBO and doings your WOT runs and testing the tune could have pushed the valves over the edge, this is what ACURA does at 105k. I know when my app sensor was going the FIC just pushed it over the edge. When modifying cars maintenance should be done 2 times sooner than normal from the extra stress being put on the engine.

What kind of fuel management do you have? What kind of after market fuel pump and what kind of injectors?

 

im doing the compression test now. just typing while on the way to pick up the gauge

 

Great point. The 3G is known to have issues with the EGR valve going bad. A bad egr will cause rough idling. Bert, do a Acurazine search on "egr".

I highly recommend this as a test. Your current plugs might be dogged-out from the frequent boost. Put the oem or other new plugs in the car to see if this elimantes the roughness and cel.

My first reaction is that the smoke in unrelated. Check your AN fittings and other fittings that you added for the turbo install.

 

My car usually idles around 14.0 - 14.7. I am thinking that it might be worth trying to fatten-up the idle (and other areas too) to be no leaner than 14.0.

You had been ok with those leaner numbers in the warmer weather. But your cold weather might now be making those lean number to be too lean (misfiring). Worth a try.

 

 

2nd gen Valve adjustment (same procedure as 3rd gen)

warning: valve clearance on the 3rd generation TL is different than the one in the DIY above

heed post #33 (diy) and the post below

 

Bert,

Any updates?

 

 

compression test was done. 5 cranks

Cylinders 1-5 were all around 160psi +/- 3 and held consistently. No leaks

Cylinder 6 had 0. Yes Zero. I put a little oil in the cylinder and re-tested. Compression was 30psi and held. Misfires on cylinder 6 only after I drove home.

I should of known something was going on since last week b.c my catch can had filled up EXTREMELY quick. It is a small can and usually takes about a month to get 1/2 full. It took about a week to get 3/4 full.

So I guess we are looking at a cracked ringland. This would explain why the vacuum didnt change.

I guess we atleast know the limits of the pistons on a j32 now. Ill definitely blame this on my increase in boost making well over 400whp. Figure 20% drivetrain loss and we are looking at close to 500 crank hp. No problems for 3 months prior to this with 350 to the wheels.

So Im deciding on my options. Do I swap in 6 new oem pistons and turn the boost down? Honestly, I really dont want to. I want to go up, not down

So I think for the time being the car will be out of service until I get a set of custom pistons from Rodney

 

Sounds like a good excuse for new pistons with a deeper top ring land. You should scope all cylinders.. I figure all of the top rings / ring lands should be showing some initial wear.

 

Exactly what I feared..

I don't think you should slap new OEM pistons...I think you should get some low compression forged pistons and rings...since you're gonna dig in there, why do it in a way that limits you? So aftermarket forged low compression pistons is what I would do.

As far as #6 cylinder, assuming it gave out...I wouldn't blame anything (we know they're weak) as far as tunning, except for the plugs you tried...Stick with NGK, ive been saying this since i came in this freaking forum. Stay away from the fancy multiple-spark blah blah blah. They don't work, but you already know that now.

So the plugs you tried, fouled out, caused preignition/detonation, and that's all it takes.
This is something that happened to me with the SC and the supplied plugs from CT...I pulled 3 plugs BROKEN inside, and all 3 cylinders had low compression-broken ring lands

 

Aftermarket is the way to go. Whats your opinions on the stock rods? Are you still using oem? Upgraded pistons is a must, going oem doesnt make sense with this amount of power.

Ahhh yes, zex plugs FTL. Never again

Where did you get your pistons made?

 

This is the spark plug from cylinder 6 last night. Notice the ground strap



Cleaned up. Notice the ground strap again. That crud eventually came off completely. Is that burnt oil?

 

First turbo engine to bite the dust? Shitty man, I know the feeling. Not to be a downer but I expected to see this w/ the power u guys are pushing. I think it was cylinder 6 for me too (just got starved?), but the good news is it gives you a reason to upgrade your bottom end. Pinging or not, the rings on the pistons are WEAK, and you might as well change out the rods while you're down there. I ended up going w/ a set of CP pistons w/ a 10.25:1 CR. Their shop is down the street from my work...if you have any questions let me know.

 

It would be interesting to see if cylinder 6 runs leaner than the rest. If it's an air distribution issue with the intake manfold, it can be corrected.

The extra airflow with the turbo tends to amplify any existing distribution problems. It's common in the TB world for 5 and 6 to run lean. Although it looks crazy, this is the solution, a plate that goes between the upper and lower plenum. With this, detonation tendencies are lowered. I was able to add 3 more psi on pump gas. Some way of modifying the airflow on the TL an be done too.

 

Interesting. The turbo Odyssey has a custom IM. It would behoove the turbo guys to contact them and start a discussion if indeed 5 & 6 are running lean.

 

That's a great idea! One you put it under boost, the NA tuning goes out the door. You no longer need or want the 2-stage manifold, the short and long runners, and a "tuned" plenum. All you want is a large open plenum with one set of runners. The larger the plenum the better the chance of equal distribution.

I would go so far as to say the stock intake *might* hender turbo performance and reliability. It's really too bad we can't do a cylinder by cylinder EGT on these cars.

Look at the shape of that plenum, it's not just a straight line. I will be they screwed with it until they got equal distribution.

 

My cases were, first time 2-3 and 2nd time 4-6.
Not 6 alone

 

Wilson Manifolds is the mfg for the turbo Odyssey.

http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/

Might be cost prohibitive but I'm sure they'd do a groupbuy.