I agree that normally a 10w-30 will be superior to a 5w-30 for boosted applications. Redline is the exception. Their 5w-30 and 10w-30 are both straight 30wts with no viscosity index improvers. The 5w-30 uses a slightly better base oil that does not thicken as much when cold or thin as much when hot depending on how you want to look at it. Normally going to a 10w-30 means less VIIs which is a good thing but Redline does not use any in either oil.

However, going to Mobil One would be a significant downgrade. Redline is known for disappearing in the first oil change. My car has never used oil before and never since but during my first change with Redline it dropped half a quart. Most people report this. It's a one time thing that goes away after the first change.

 

I understand redline might be good and all but mobil 1 works also and I think it's fair to give people choices that work and won't break the bank at the same time as I'm sure redline oil isn't cheap ..As a lot of people are looking into this mod but also wants to save a few $$ on maintaince ect...

 

While I was researching (googling) plugs a few months ago, I did read one or two people mentioning that the Zex plugs had broke on them too.

 

Thk you inaccurate for backing up my post ,the guys that helped us with r&d tested a variety of plugs , the #8 ngk turned out to be the best in terms of cost and life spam for daily use Which are the ones I originally installed in liberts car .However the plugs that are ideal cost up to $46 per one which are number 8 resisted which can be found
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ductLine%7cAsc .. And I believe kn found some made by champion also

 

This link will better explain plug types and with selecting plug of choice now that we know what to look for when buying or making a choice http://www.partshp.com/champion.htm
hope this lnk helps

 

Ngk and champion have much different heat ranges. Stock heat range on the TL for ngk is 6 and the higher the number the colder the plug.

Champion on the other hand, stock heat range is 12 (or so Im told by the company but the pic below says differently) and the lower the number the colder the plug.

For every 1 number the ngk goes up, its the equivalent of 2 numbers down for the champion.

Ironically, a heat range of 8 is the ideal plug for both ngk and champion plugs for the boosted TL

 

Of course, people can run anything they want. The way I feel about Mobil One is it's a good cheap oil but it's very average in it's niche. I would buy based on price in this niche. You have all kinds of oils that are as good as Mobil One. Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, Quaker State synthetic, and just about any "synthetic" and "semi synthetic" out there.

Redline is a few steps up, you get what you pay for. It's not like the other oils where you're paying for a pretty bottle and slick advertising. You get a true grp V real synthetic and an amazing additive pack that is made to perform well under boosted conditions. Redline will take the heat much better and much longer. In the engines I've torn down the ring land area is deposit free where Mobil One looks like any other dino oil in this area. The difference in overall cleanliness between an ester oil and grp III oil is huge. Mobil One has less than 650ppm of ZDDP, Redline has over 1,200ppm. Practically nothing on the shelf has moly. Redline has tons of moly which helps in turbo spool, mpg, and wear.

One big advantage that we've touched on here is that you're not required to run a 10w-30 to get the robustness needed for turbo use. The 5w-30 Redline is much more robust than M1 10w-30. You get better cold flow along with better hot protection. Redline is better in every way. For turbo use I would have no problem paying an extra $20.

Where M1 shines is price. You get an above average oil at a very good price if you shop around.

 

I called snow performance and spoke with one of their techs. They confirmed a lot of the info I already stated about to much water/meth at low boost levels could be causing misfires.

They also said the 175ml nozzles actually spray at around 250ml/min. Since I was running 2 nozzles thats close to 500ml/min at only 4psi since the controller was set so low

The 100ml nozzles spray closer to 150ml/min as well.

I put the 100ml nozzles back in and changed the starting psi to 3 and the max to 6ish. I drove a good distance today hitting wot in 2nd and 3rd gear quite a few times. No more misfires.

I hope I can chalk all this up to a combo of too much water/meth and the wrong plugs

 

good plugs & balanced water meth injection.. sounds good to me. Glad you got it worked out Bert!

 

^thanks. and a BIG thanks to everyone who shared some info on this.

Im still planning to do a compression test just to be 100% safe.

 

A compression check now will be helpful in the future too. If you have to troubleshoot years later, you will have a good reference baseline to compare against.

 

^Very true. I guess ill be putting the girlfriend to work and she can crank the car lmao

 

LOL!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DAbbC1WAl0


Note – All references to timeframe is according to the readout in the upper right-hand corner of the video.


I got the video of my car firing-up from a stone cold state. What I did not expect was for the wideband to insist on always warming-up when powered-up.

There is a red led light on my dash that connects to the wideband. The red led will flash while the sensor is being heated-up. Once the sensor is up to temp, the led will have a steady light to indicate that the wideband in now functional.

I had powered-up the wideband before starting the engine. But obviously, the ignition switch will kill the power to everything while the starter is being engaged. So, that means the wideband had to go thru it’s ritual of warming-up again……. Although the sensor was warmed-up already. The wideband is not smart enough to know that it was warm already.

Thus, we are unable to monitor the afr for the first 16 seconds after starting the engine. It takes 16.5 seconds for the wideband to become functional. So IHC, you may be right about the very rich mixture during the first 16 seconds of starting the engine..... I have no ammunition to say otherwise.

At the timeframe 17 seconds to 37 seconds, the afr mixture is 15.5 – 15.7.

At the timeframe 37 seconds, you can hear a drastic change in the exhaust tone. This is the ecu going from 15.7 afr to the normal 14.7 afr.

Is the background is the EGT gauge. While normally sitting at a stoplight, the EGT is always 800-850*. However, notice how the ecu forces the EGT to go up to 1175* before switching to the 14.7 afr.

 

That is so cool to watch. Mine has the exact same tone change at about the same time. It's neat to see it's the AF changing. I honestly thought it was a timing change this whole time.

Crazy EGTs so quick into a cold start. I think it does go very rich right away then lean out and retard the timing to get EGTs up quickly. I'm still amazed watching how quickly the 02 fires off and EGTs are in the catalyst's functional range within a few seconds of startup. You're at stoich in well under a minute. I knew some of this was required to meet the ULEV expectations but it's one thing to read about it and another to actually see it. As always, the data is awesome.

 

What kind of camera are you using Inacc?

 

Is that bad of quality?

 

Cold start idle for comparison

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG8dDltOdmo

 

Seems like your AEM wideband gets a reading quick with no warm-up.

Can you get us a video of your wideband with your engine firing-up from a stone cold (off for approx 12 hrs)?

 

^This was 12+ hours of non-use Parked at 2am, started up at 3pm

 

<<This was 12+ hours of non-use >>
Sorry Bert. Those damn old people.

Thanks for clarifying Bert. And thanks for the vid. It is always a pleasure for us to see what things are like to have a turbo TL (living vicariously).

Any more race episodes?
^ that "living vicariously" thing again

 

Majofo,

The vid of the wideband was made with my picture camera. Most electronic cameras also record vids too.

My picture camera that was used to make the wideband vid is this below -

Sony Cyber-shot Digital Camera HX1




Last year doing my racing vids, I used my Sony HD Camcorder like below -




But for future vids, I have my eye on this (below) little "fit in your palm" puppy. Specifically made to record vids for specifically YouTube, et. al. -

Sony Bloggie Touch Camera






This is the first time for me to post a vid from my picture camera. Did the vid have decent quality? I am a bit paranoid since you asked what I used to make the vid. Does the vid lack quality to cause you to ask? Thanks for any feedback

 

I could tell it was an SLR style camera by the DOF. I wasn't sure if you were manually focusing or if it was auto-focusing, knowing the camera now, I can tell it was auto-focusing. The vid quality was good, a little jittery from the dynamic focus but it's such a tight shot, it can be expected.

 

If you guys are in to cameras, I have a friend that's a pro photographer that gets rid of his used equipment fairly often. I don't take many pictures but I just bought a Cannon 5D with one lens and an external flash for $150. I don't know a whole lot about photography but I do know it's way more camera than I will ever need.

 

LOL.

Its been very hard to get a race lately. Ive walked many g35s/37s but I look for something that I really wonder if im going to lose to on the highway (m3, isF, modded 335, wrx, evo) I do 90% highway driving and a 40 mile round trip commute to work.

Heres part of the problem Ive been noticing lately. I generally cruise in the left or center lane 60-65mph in a 55mph zone. When I see a car coming up in my rearview that may be a potential victim, I let them pass. They always want to fly by me at first. Ive been trying to avoid any partial throttle (since im running way too lean) so if I need to catch up to whoever just flew past me then its usually a wot run to catch them and pace them. Since I have an open wastegate dump, the driver of the supposed car doesnt want to race anymore. Maybe they are second guessing themselves once they hear the dump tube screaming? I dont know. All I know is that this open dump is extremely loud under wot.

I had 3 instances where I tried to instigate a race but the opposing driver wanted nothing to do with me. Im positive I would of lost EXTREMELY bad all 3 times but I wanted a taste.

1. 2010/11 audi s8, aftermarket exhaust.
2. 2009 GTR, exhaust (god knows what else)
3. mercedes slr mclaren...Amazing looking car (this was this morning actually)

I did put about half a football field on a g37 sedan tonight (75-140). Then he gave me the finger as he flew by me while I slowed down

 

I like your way of thinking!

No point in beating up on the small guys all the time, it's more fun to take the risk to say you beat one of the big boys. You never know what can happen on the street. The GTR is a monster but I bet if he were stock it would be an interesting race from a roll.

 

I think at least half of the G35/37's and 350/370Z's owners have a douchebag complex. Some blacked out 350Z with rattle canned taillights and exhaust cut me off, extended his arm out the window, all the way up to his shoulder, and flipped me off.. for no fucking reason. All I could say is wtf?! I seriously hope one of these days, one of these dbags has the balls to get out of his car and come up to my window.

 

LOL. I learned the hard way not to be the first one to exit the car. It's very tempting to show these guys what a little training can do but never again will I be the one to get out.

 

Ok here we again with more misfires

But this time the misfires only happen at idle and not when driving.

I was idling in park making some adjustments to the fuel map after doing a few wot runs. I was idling for maybe 20 minutes and the cel light starts flashing. Misfires on cylinders 1, 3, 5 and random. I start to drive and the light goes away

I come home, pull all the plugs, clean them, put them back in nice and snug and reset the battery.

The car idles smooth in neutral and park but gets misfire codes. When in drive, the idle is very rough and the car is sputtering to the point were you can feel it in the cabin. Misfires while idling in drive as well. The motor does not sound right either.

Car idles in park for 15 minutes with no problems then the cel flashes again with cylinder 6 misfire. I start to drive and the car drives fine. No cel while driving.

I swap the coilpack in cylinder 6 with a new one. Car idles fine in neutral and park but sputters in drive. Once again the cel flashes while in park and drive. This time cylinder 5 and 6 misfire.

Where do I go from here? Im going to do a compression test today. Anything else I can do?

 

Damn I missed this post. A 5D w/ lens and flash for $150!!! That's awesome! I think photography runs a close second to working on cars.. Getting a nice shot is almost as fulfilling as finishing up a maintenance project.

What's the AFR in idle?

 

What is the car idling at? Any difference?

 

Ive seen this thread, and I held myself from saying anything until you ruled out everything that you thought were possible causes...but since the very beginning I've thought of your bottom end.

What's your vacuum reading at full warm up?

 

a/f at idle bounces between 14.6 and 15.3. Ive always seen those numbers. I hope the fuel pump is good

rpm at idle is 760 give or take a few. no difference. normal again

vacuum at idle in park/neutral is -21. In drive its -19/-21. Ive always seen those numbers as well. I guess that can rule out a blown piston seal right?

Immediately after starting the car I checked the codes and have cyl 5, 6 and random holding a pending misfire.

About 15 minutes later the cel flashes, cyl 6 code is now stored and the others are still pending including cyl 1 at this point. However, the cel stayed on. Something Ive never seen with a misfire code. It typically flashes and turns off.

Car drives/accelerates/decelerates fine. Idling in drive is the problem.

 

Can you feel the misfire at idle?

It really acts like it's lost compression but the vaccum is too good. Misfires only at idle and especially when it's in gear are classic.

It may just be the cold plugs. My car will start misfiring after a day of running it real easy. Have you noticed a pattern like if you're really easy on the throttle for a while, does it seem to misfire more?

The compression test should be interesting.

 

are your valves in spec? how are the exhaust valves looking?

 

Very good catch! The additional heat from the turbo could make adjusting the valves more often necessary.

 

The weather just dropped to a steady 35 and below the past few days. The car was making a different sound maybe since 2 days ago at idle in drive. It progressively got worse and it turned into what it is now.

Just for reference, the colder plugs are gapped to .026. checked last night

I have my oem plugs here so I can always swap them

easy on the throttle doesnt seem to make a difference. I can drive very easy or moderatly hard and the car behaves normal. Only at idle in drive is when it acts up and misfires.

I have never had a valve adjustment and I know I need one. I can hear more tapping then normal over the past month. How do you inspect the exhaust valves?



edit....what does putting a few drops of oil into then cylinder then cranking do? Checks the seals or something?

 

Possibly EGR Valve is open..

I hope you figure it out Bert. Misfires while idling in drive is a big clue though.

 

If the comp check comes back low, you inject some oil into the cylinder which will help seal up the rings. If you do the test after putting oil in the cylinder and the test comes back higher, it's likely the rings causing the issue.

However, you would be past a valve adjustment even without the turbo. You measure clearance with a feeler guage with the valvecovers off and adjust from there.

If it is tight exhaust clearances, it can quickly turned into burned exhaust valves. The exhaust valve uses the seat to cool itself. If it's not closing properly it will overheat.

 

now im gettin a very little amount of white smoke from the rear of the motor near the firewall. cant figure out where its coming from. only happens when im driving then stops after a min or 2 of idling