Chris 07 Type S

Sorry if this is either a repost of someone else's or in the wrong area. I searched, please don't delete...

OK. I read the 3G Garage D041 where it has the PDF of the instructions on how to change out the front pads on Brembo's (Type-S).

My questions is... When I opened the box of pads there were 4 shims in the box. I haven't taken my car apart yet, as I am doing this tomorrow. In the instructions, they don't show any shims. Also, the 4 tubes of grease, I assume you put this all over the back of the pads. But what and how do you do this if I have to use the shims.

My plan was... pull the pads out and replace them exactly as they came out. But just need these questions answered. Any help will be greatly appriciated!!!!

Thanks
Chris

Bearcat94

The shims should go on the same as they are on the old pads. Dry fit them on the new pads - it should be fairly clear which shim goes where (inner & outer) - there is an arrow as well.

Grease goes on each shim. Just use a very little bit - just enough to lightly cover the shim. I think I had 2 or 3 tubes left over.




https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brembo

WIth Pics:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/3g-garage-d-094-brembo-hawk-pad-replacement-w-pics-579140/

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

yep, there will be shimms on the old pads when you take them out you will see...good plan, just to put the new ones in the same as the old ones come out....you will want to put grease on the back of the pads just like you were saying, inbetween the shimms and pads...that is where some squeaking will happen without.....

nfnsquared

Hmmm, that's interesting and something that I didn't notice before: The service manual doesn't mention anything about installing shims when you replace the pads. I'm not sure that about the need for grease between the pad and shim. I used RB 300's which don't use shims. (See 01tl4tl's comments in the first link above, post #2). Definitely need it between the exposed part of the pad not covered by the shim and on the outside of the shim itself.

Also, highly recommend you grease the spring clips where they come in contact with the pins and pads. Also, grease the pins. You don't need a lot of grease, I did both sides with one tube of grease. If you can feel the grease with your fingers, you have enough.

Bearcat94

I thought I read/saw somewhere (maybe a TSB ??) that the shims were added (or changed) and that the grease was changed.

The grease I am sure changed from Molykote M-77 (gray/silver) to Brembo (orange/gold) supplied grease.

Anyhow, both were part of the effort to reduce squealing/noise from the MT & TL-S front brakes.

In the parts *drawing* for the '07 TL-S it does not *show* shims, but the '08 TL-S does. However, both part numbers are the same, so maybe the drawing is simply an error.

Chris 07 Type S

What kind of grease should I use. The brake pads came with 4 tubes of grease, should I just use some of that since I won't be using it all?

(Thanks for all the help)

Bearcat94

Probably wouldn't hurt, but, if it were me, I'd use a general purpose grease if I had it available.

01tl4tl

the special grease that came with the new brakes is hi-temp synthetic -most likely

Use it or CRC hi temp synthetic brake caliper grease- NOT whatever is laying around the garage- its very important to use the right hi temp stuff or it melts off immedialty
Brake temps can exceed 500 F quickly

The important thing is to grease where the caliper pistons touch the back of the shim, thats where there is actual movement during braking- just look at the wear marks and grease appropriatly
I dont use any between the pad and the shim- it should fit tight and have no movement- If your do have slip in the shim to pad--- then a small amount of the same grease goes on the wear marks you will find when you pop the shims off the old pads to inspect them

Flush the brake fluid before you work on the brakes- then you can safely open a bleeder to push the pistons in- be careful not to pop the other sides pistons out!
NEVER touch the 2 allen head bolts on back of caliper-they hold it together!!

Chris 07 Type S

OK... So I was lazy...

I plan on doing the work in the morning but put my car up on stands and took the wheels off to inspect it, plus it keeps me from driving it tonight...lol

I inspected the rotors 3 out of the four sides look new, one (passenger inside) has a slight scuff towards the inside of the rotor about 3/8 wide and may 1/32 deep (where I heard the grinding the last 2-3 days). I do not plan on cutting the rotors, I figure they will need to be replaced after the next set of pads anyhow.

I used a flat head and was very easily able to work the old pads back to compress the pistons in. I haven't pushed the two pins out yet to get the pads out, but this looks wicked simplistic. I am betting less then 45 minutes before the car is on the ground from the time I start.

So, how bad am I killing performance by not cutting the rotors... Thoughts are, locally they want $130 just to cut the rotors. If I get 6 months out of this I am happy, I will then upgrad to slotted with other pads.

What is weird is that 3 out of 4 of the pads have good meat left, just one pad is cooked. Thoughts?

Bearcat94

Can't say about uneven wear.

BUT, I left my pads alone too. No problem - same as it ever was.

Have not taken it where constant braking would cause fade, so don't know if they'd fade sooner or not.

nfnsquared

I gotta assume that the grease that came with the pads is high temp synthetic. I'd just use it. If you want to be absolutely sure, just run down to your local parts store and by a tube for less than $1.

Chris 07 Type S

Thanks.. I wasn't sure how bad it would be with a small groove in one area.

01tl4tl

the groove may have been caused by the low pad squeeler tab- it hits the rotor when the pads are too thin
you will see it on removal of pads

01tl4tl

Im confident the brake pads came with the good grease,
I use as much as I think will actually stay on and not fling onto other parts, like the rotor

They gave you 4 tubes for a reason~ maybe the makers website has more specific info on where and how much to grease, plus proper bedding procedure on the new pads

Chris 07 Type S

They are OEM pads, I didn't think you had to bed in OEM pads.

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

all brake pads need some bedding in when new....otherwise if you overheat the pads too quickly when new they will glaze the rotor and you will not get optimum performance....

01tl4tl

the new pads and the old rotors ned to get to know each other, plus all pads contain some resins-glues that are used in manufacture- it needs to get heated and work its way out
Thats why they tell you to brake gently for the first 100 miles and no hard braking

Stock pads dont need the aggressive method used on performance pads, but it still needs care at first--and the pads we are discussing are brembos! semi high performance

mn2trance

When I had changed out my pads, I had that exact same problem, too. However, mine had happened to the inside pad on the driver's side. That's why I was baffled when I saw the outside pad with a bit of meat on it during my visual inspection.

Chris 07 Type S

SO... what is the proper bed in procedure for using new Brembo pads and un-cut rotors? Just easy driving for the first 100 miles?

SouthernBoy

Here you go. This is basically what I did when I installed my Rotex Gold Kevlar pads on my '04 manual TL. I did not need to turn the the rotors as they were in superb shape.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

If you need some more info, so a search for Rotex Gold Kevlars and see what I wrote in 2006.

SouthernBoy

There is much confusion about bedding in. When and under what circumstances to do it. Owner's manuals of new cars generally recommend gentle braking for the first 200 miles. This is largely do to the new rotors having to "seat" with the pads. When replacing stock OEM pads on our manual TL's with an after market pad and not having the rotors turned, if bedding in is not done, expect the pads to squeal.. and frequently squeal a lot.

Bedding in as described in the link I supplied is done for primarily three reasons:
1. To gas out the pads.
2. To "marry" the pad surface to the rotor surface (call it groove matching if you wish).
3. To impart pad material onto the rotor surface.

I suggest searching around on the web for information and perhaps differing views on this topic if you are at all uncomfortable with the bedding in process. I did and I am glad I did.

Bearcat94

Chris, I did the same as you: replaced OE pads with new OE pads and did not turn the rotors.

I did nothing special for bed-in. Just tried to avoid hard braking for a couple hundred miles. I figured since the pad material was the same as what was previously used it'd be fine.

And it was; 5,500 miles later, it still is.

Chris 07 Type S

I want to thank everyone for there help. This was soooo simplistic. Although, I probably should have cut the rotors, only becuase of the groove in one of them. But.. I went out and did a bed-in, not one squeak *yet*. Use the car tonight, and no noise. Car seems to be just like it was. The OEM pads cost me 175 shipped 2nd day air. Much better than the $465 plus tax the dealer wanted.

Next time I do this I am going to upgrade the rotors. Looks to be a little more complicated to get the calipers off, and I haven't blead brakes in a ten years, and I know I will need to change out the fluid.