I wanted to check the ignition timing on my car. However I have read that maybe it isn't adjustable.Is that right? That it is controlled by the computer and will change the timing on it's own? This confuses me.

And if it matters at all, I have a UR pulley and I don't know if it has the timing marks? If it's nessecary?

Also, to save on new thread space, does anyone know what page in the service manual has the procedure for a compression test? I just want to make sure it's in spec.

 

Ok. I found the answer to the timing question. The manual says that if the timing is off that the dealer would have to download the latest software to PCM. That totally sucks that it can't even be checked or fixed by the DIYer.

So my other questions still apply. Does the UR crank pulley have the timing marks?

I still can't find the compression test in the manual. I have the 2000 page pdf and it is hard to find what I'm looking for. Does anyone know how to do this?

 

The compression is tested the same as any other engine, with plugs removed, insert gauge, wide open throttle, crank and check compression.
This however is where the problem begins. After the engine is fully warmed up, fan on, you must connect the HDS (Honda Digital System) to the data link connector (DLC), then on the HDS, select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF. After the test, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), otherwise the injectors will contiue to stop working.

There are fuses for the coils and fuel pump, as well as relays for the FI. Can't tell you if any harm to engine/electrics if they were removed while doing a compression test in lieu of the Honda specified equipment.

I would think any pulley would have timing mark(s).

 

Yeah, I did a comp. test on a stealth that I had, but it was OBD1. When I did that one I took the fuse out for the pump, ran the car till it shut off for lack of fuel, then just bumped the engine using the starter till I got a compression reading. Put the fuse in, started the car and had no CEL.

With the modern ecm in the TL I am not sure. I would hate to have to go to the dealership for something like that.

Has anyone checked the comp. w/out going to the dealership?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/omg-piston-valve-contact-issues-w-pics-752015/ post 17+

Fuse 19 is for the fuel pump AND immobilizer. with it disabled, its just like using an uncoded key to start the vehicle that won't turn over. i did that and removed all coil packs

 

Do I have to use an HDS when doing the compression test?

 

no thats just for them to turn off the injectors. remove fuse 19 for the fuel pump and immobilizer

 

that video you saw was the oil in the cylinders burning out after i did the compression test. its done to check if problems lead to piston rings or into the head. not needed for a regular compression test. why you testing?

just read why.. - Spec is above 135 psi and within 28psi of each other. read my thread everything is there bro.

 

I read your thread. I didn't realize until the end that this was something you were currently dealing with. I feel bad for you. At least it is covered under warranty.

I simply want to check the status of my engine. I had a dyno awhile ago and I got just shy of 200hp to the wheels with mods. That seemed low to me, however I think they did the dyno in the wrong gear which caused #'s to be lower, possibly. I pretty much want to know the health of the engine.

I had a stealth TT once and did the comp. test a week after buying it. I had comp. in 1 cylinder. The other 5 couldn't hold pressure. The rings were toasted, but that bitch still ran. So I sold it to a teenager. lol