Grinding Noise Front Driver Side
Grinding Noise Front Driver Side
I’ve searched around and can’t find someone specifically talking about a grinding noise.
I have a new to me Acura TL-S with 220k miles and this weird grinding noise just started when I turn, and a little/sometimes while straight. Mostly at slower speeds.
I was pretty convinced is was the wheel bearing, but after replacing the wheel bearing I still have the noise.
my next assumption is the CV axle. I know most people recommend Raxles, but I’m not trying to drop $300-400 to find out that’s not it either.
any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe I just pick up a cheap CV from the auto parts store to see if that’s it and then buy a Raxle in the winter when I have more money/time.
I have a new to me Acura TL-S with 220k miles and this weird grinding noise just started when I turn, and a little/sometimes while straight. Mostly at slower speeds.
I was pretty convinced is was the wheel bearing, but after replacing the wheel bearing I still have the noise.
my next assumption is the CV axle. I know most people recommend Raxles, but I’m not trying to drop $300-400 to find out that’s not it either.
any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe I just pick up a cheap CV from the auto parts store to see if that’s it and then buy a Raxle in the winter when I have more money/time.
I’ve searched around and can’t find someone specifically talking about a grinding noise.
I have a new to me Acura TL-S with 220k miles and this weird grinding noise just started when I turn, and a little/sometimes while straight. Mostly at slower speeds.
I was pretty convinced is was the wheel bearing, but after replacing the wheel bearing I still have the noise.
my next assumption is the CV axle. I know most people recommend Raxles, but I’m not trying to drop $300-400 to find out that’s not it either.
any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe I just pick up a cheap CV from the auto parts store to see if that’s it and then buy a Raxle in the winter when I have more money/time.
I have a new to me Acura TL-S with 220k miles and this weird grinding noise just started when I turn, and a little/sometimes while straight. Mostly at slower speeds.
I was pretty convinced is was the wheel bearing, but after replacing the wheel bearing I still have the noise.
my next assumption is the CV axle. I know most people recommend Raxles, but I’m not trying to drop $300-400 to find out that’s not it either.
any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe I just pick up a cheap CV from the auto parts store to see if that’s it and then buy a Raxle in the winter when I have more money/time.
Edit: when you took your brakes apart, what kind of condition were your dust shields in? I ask because one of mine was in great shape, the other was rusted to the point where it was literally hanging by a few threads of metal and it was just starting to rub on the rotor.
I think it is highly unlikely for an axle to make the kind of noise you are describing, that and if you have no steering wheel vibrations on a straight smooth road, then your current axles are probably good to go. If you do opt to replace them, take @DMZ's advice and buy APWI axles; they are inexpensive (like a tenth of the cost of OEM or Raxles), and nice and smooth; I've been running them on my car for nearly 2 years and they're great.
Edit: when you took your brakes apart, what kind of condition were your dust shields in? I ask because one of mine was in great shape, the other was rusted to the point where it was literally hanging by a few threads of metal and it was just starting to rub on the rotor.
Edit: when you took your brakes apart, what kind of condition were your dust shields in? I ask because one of mine was in great shape, the other was rusted to the point where it was literally hanging by a few threads of metal and it was just starting to rub on the rotor.
Some other guy on here had the same description and it turned out to be his transmission was running low on fluid. He had an MT.
Link to that thread
Link to that thread
Last edited by Valens; May 15, 2021 at 01:48 PM. Reason: added link
All great suggestions. I’ve found that I ended up with base model rotors, and have swapped to the Type S rotors. All issues have been solved. After measuring the rotor thickness, it all started to make sense.
since I recently replaced the rotors, I should have guessed that was the issue.
thank you everyone.
since I recently replaced the rotors, I should have guessed that was the issue.
thank you everyone.
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Yes, the rotors will fit no problem, however, if you had done new pads you *should* have immediately noticed they were almost too thick to fit the caliper and pad combo over the new rotor; that and the diameter of the base rotor is smaller which in turn means the top of the pads don't have any metal to push against.
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