DCP

Help. I have an 06 TL w/nav and for some reason the interior fuse in the number six slot keeps blowing out. According to the diagram the fuse is for the interior lights. Its a 7.5 fuse and I already replaced it 3 times. I also replaced it with a 10 amp fuse and that also blew out. I searched around and found nothing related to an 06.

A few issues with the fuse being out are that not only do the interior lights don't work, but my key fob won't lock or unlock the doors. Also, the memory seats won't work with the car off. They work fine when the car is on, but not when the car is off.

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanx in advance.

kevinballer08

I've had this problem too. You might want to take a look at the back-up (#7 Fuse)

nfnsquared

Here's the full list for what's on #6. Do you have any LED mods? If the fuse seems to blow after opening a door, then I'd say it's something with the courtesy lights.

DCP

Thanx alot guys. I do have led mods. Now that I remember the fuse did blow out after I opened the trunk. Could the led lights be it? I'll check them out and get back later with results.

DCP

Ok so it looks like the fuse keeps blowing out everytime I open the trunk. I disconnected the led bulb and still the fuse keeps blowing out. Everything else is working fine. I've never messed with any of the wires in the trunk. What could be causing this problem?

J35TL-S

There could a short someone in the circuit. Check your wiring.

nfnsquared

Could be a faulty trunk latch switch. It's on the trunk lid.

What method are you using to open the trunk? FOB or inside push button?

Does the fuse blow when using either method?

DCP

Yes, the fuse does blow out either way.
What exactly is this switch you are referring to? What should I look for?

Don't really want to trace the wiring, since it involves removing the seats and the rear shelf. The wires look pretty good. They are wrapped up with all that grey tape.

invalidalias

It sounds like a short to ground. Have you had your visors replaced? Maybe recheck your work again.

nfnsquared

It's in the center of the inside of the trunk lid. You'll have to remove the interior cover to get to it.

I'm also wondering if somehow the bulb receptacle got damaged/shorted when inserting the LED. I'd also take a very good look there and see if there's any chance it is what is shorted.

Just to confirm, the fuse blows whenever you open the trunk (via both FOB and push button switch) with or without a bulb in the trunk light receptacle? And the trunk does manage to actually open before the fuse blows?

If that's true, that would seem to indicate that the fault is at the light receptacle....

DCP

??? Visors???

DCP

I've had the LED's installed for over a year & never had any problems with them. Also before trying the new fuse, I disconnected the LED, connected the fuse, opened the trunk and it blew out again.

Yes, the fuse blows out when using both the fob and switch. After the fuse blows out, I can only open the trunk using the switch because the fob won't work.

At this point I'm thinking it's a faulty wire, but where to begin, that's the problem. I'll check back when I get a hold of more fuses. Thanx again.

invalidalias

Yea the visors are in the etm cause of the vanity lights. best thing to do is just to unplug everything as far as lighting goes then one by one connect and try to make it act up. It could be anywhere the bare metal wire is exposed thouching the metal body.

removing visors
map/ceiling light assembly
rear dome light
trunk light/switch

If you unplug all these and test it again and it blows then all these components are good.<-- These are pretty easy.
Next would be to remove all 4 door panels, unplug the lights and try it again.

Good luck. let me know what you find.

nfnsquared

As far as I can tell, the only connection between trunk opening and fuse 6 is through the trunk light.

In short, here's how it works: The trunk opener solenoid is powered by fuse 8. When you press the trunk switch (or FOB), power (via fuse 8) is sent to the solenoid to open the trunk. When the trunk opens, a ground signal is sent back to the MICU which in turn sends a ground current to the trunk light (the other end of the trunk light is positive power from fuse 6).

I suspect that heat from the LED has melted the insulation of the wire connector for the light socket or the socket itself is shorted and the circuit "grounds out" when ever the ground signal is provided to the circuit when opening the trunk.

I do not see any connection between the trunk circuit and the vanity lights (the vanity lights don't come on when the trunk is opened as far as I remember).

DCP

I will go ahead and check the trunk light socket. As far as the interior lights, I did check them one by one, and they all worked fine. I never installed led's in the vanity lights, so i dont think that would be the problem. Thanx for the input though.

DCP

So

DCP

So it looks like it was the trunk light socket that was shortening out my fuse. Anybody know what could of caused this. I've had LED lights for over a year and never had a problem. Also, how much does a replacement light socket cost?