When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Doors won't lock with remote or door toggle button.
Hello,
04 TL
For some time now, my doors will not lock with the remote or the door toggle switches. None of the door toggle switches lock the door where the switch is located. When I try the driver side switch none of the door lock as well. I can't imagine that all my actuators are bad so I can only assume that the driver side actuator is bad and affects all the rest. Does anyone know if this is in fact the case? Should I replace my actuator or could something else be wrong.
I checked the fuses and they are ok. I have read other threads about similar problems, but want to know if I should start check / replace the driver side actuator first. What I would like to know is, if there is a faulty drivers side actuator will that affect locking of other doors? None of my doors lock (key, switch, auto).... I have to manually press each knob down on every door.
Sorry to revive an old thread but I'm having the same issue too and I checked the fuse. Not sure what to try next before changing actuators in the doors.
were you having the same problem as 04tldude? None of my doors will lock using the keyfob or the switch inside. I have to manually close each door but opening the door with the switch or key works.
were you having the same problem as 04tldude? None of my doors will lock using the keyfob or the switch inside. I have to manually close each door but opening the door with the switch or key works.
I wasn't having the same problem, as my issue was only with the front passenger door. I was unable to lock / unlock with the remote. I had to manually lock / unlock from inside the vehicle. $18.00 for a new actuator, and 20 minutes later problem fixed!
For some time now, my doors will not lock with the remote or the door toggle switches. None of the door toggle switches lock the door where the switch is located. When I try the driver side switch none of the door lock as well. I can't imagine that all my actuators are bad so I can only assume that the driver side actuator is bad and affects all the rest. Does anyone know if this is in fact the case? Should I replace my actuator or could something else be wrong.
What was the resolution? I have the exact issue with all four doors not responding to the remote or the actual lock button inside the car. Is there a Master actuator the controls all four doors?
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.
You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5× ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.
You need to budget around 3-4 hours to work on this since it is a pain to get at all the connectors and it is a cramped area. You also need to have some soldering skills to de-solder and re-solder. A solder sucker is necessary.
- First unhook the negative terminal off the battery! Very important because you don not want to fry any components while taking off the wire harnesses.
- Remove the under dash cover above the brake pedal.
- Next take off the fuse covers and shroud around the hood release latch. We will be accessing the MICU/fuse box behind the hood latch lever.
- Start by taking off the yellow connector (think it might be for the air bags) by squeezing the connector towards you and then pull out.
Grab under the yellow connector's outer shell and pull towards you while pushing on the center wire area.
Squeeze then pull off the yellow connector.
- Take off the connectors by pushing down on the center tab and pull off. I would go right to left starting on the bottom row for the front side.
- Remove the 2 bolts that hold down the fuse box. One on bottom right and one on upper left (sorry no pic) I used an extension with a 10 mm socket for the upper-left bolt.
- Take off upper gray connector by releasing tab on the back (I think I broke this clip a bit)
- Take off the 2 green side connectors on the left.
- Take off the rear connectors starting from the upper-left top row when viewed on the back side (yes a real pain). Then unhook the bottom row. Take your time...
You should end up with this.
Insert screwdriver to release tab and take off metal bracket.
- Use flat bladed screwdriver to carefully pry apart red circled tabs and insert small tip screwdriver behind yellow circles to release tabs while slowly prying it open. I started near the upper-left first.
Insert small flat bladed screwdriver behind the yellow circles and carefully pry red circled tabs.
- Carefully separate the gray shell and don't bend any pins
- Separate the circuit board by rocking back and forth holding the green connector or the relay on the upper left (Taiko TB2-100P) We will be replacing that one.
It is connected to the brown shell under the white connector only
Very gently rock circuit board back and forth from side to side to separate green circuit board. Do not use a screwdriver or you might destroy the components on the backside!
The bad relay is the Taiko TB2-100P
Un-solder the 8 pins to remove the relay.
- I found it necessary to use a solder sucker. You can get one from Fry's or online.
Solder sucker.
- Solder on new relay
New relay soldered. (Panasonic ACTB32) 12V 160 ohms
- Reassemble circuit board to brown backing. Careful not to bend any pins!
- Turn over and Install gray cover with pins toward you so you can see if the pins are aligned
Careful not to bend any pins.
- Now is a good time to inspect the moon roof drain tube to see if it is tightly connected and not leaking behind the fuse box location.
- Reassemble MICU/fuse box back in car by plugging the bottom-rear connectors first then the upper-rear row.
- Install upper-left 10mm bolt first then lower-right bolt. Check to see if the moon roof drain tube is not pinched by the wire harnesses.
- Install 2 side green connectors
- Install front-upper row of connectors then lower row starting from left to right. Check to make sure all connectors click.
- Install upper gray sliding connector.
- Hook up battery cable and test.
- Reinstall all plastic covers.
- You are done! So far I have not had a problem with the 160 ohm relay as opposed to the original 100 ohm relay.
Did you ever figure out if the driver door was the main control to control the other actuators or are they all on their own seperate source?? My passenger door lock switch will not work I have replaced the actuator and the switch everything else works..
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.
You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5× ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.
You need to budget around 3-4 hours to work on this since it is a pain to get at all the connectors and it is a cramped area. You also need to have some soldering skills to de-solder and re-solder. A solder sucker is necessary.
- First unhook the negative terminal off the battery! Very important because you don not want to fry any components while taking off the wire harnesses.
- Remove the under dash cover above the brake pedal.
- Next take off the fuse covers and shroud around the hood release latch. We will be accessing the MICU/fuse box behind the hood latch lever.
- Start by taking off the yellow connector (think it might be for the air bags) by squeezing the connector towards you and then pull out.
Grab under the yellow connector's outer shell and pull towards you while pushing on the center wire area.
Squeeze then pull off the yellow connector.
- Take off the connectors by pushing down on the center tab and pull off. I would go right to left starting on the bottom row for the front side.
- Remove the 2 bolts that hold down the fuse box. One on bottom right and one on upper left (sorry no pic) I used an extension with a 10 mm socket for the upper-left bolt.
- Take off upper gray connector by releasing tab on the back (I think I broke this clip a bit)
- Take off the 2 green side connectors on the left.
- Take off the rear connectors starting from the upper-left top row when viewed on the back side (yes a real pain). Then unhook the bottom row. Take your time...
You should end up with this.
Insert screwdriver to release tab and take off metal bracket.
- Use flat bladed screwdriver to carefully pry apart red circled tabs and insert small tip screwdriver behind yellow circles to release tabs while slowly prying it open. I started near the upper-left first.
Insert small flat bladed screwdriver behind the yellow circles and carefully pry red circled tabs.
- Carefully separate the gray shell and don't bend any pins
- Separate the circuit board by rocking back and forth holding the green connector or the relay on the upper left (Taiko TB2-100P) We will be replacing that one.
It is connected to the brown shell under the white connector only
Very gently rock circuit board back and forth from side to side to separate green circuit board. Do not use a screwdriver or you might destroy the components on the backside!
The bad relay is the Taiko TB2-100P
Un-solder the 8 pins to remove the relay.
- I found it necessary to use a solder sucker. You can get one from Fry's or online.
Solder sucker.
- Solder on new relay
New relay soldered. (Panasonic ACTB32) 12V 160 ohms
- Reassemble circuit board to brown backing. Careful not to bend any pins!
- Turn over and Install gray cover with pins toward you so you can see if the pins are aligned
Careful not to bend any pins.
- Now is a good time to inspect the moon roof drain tube to see if it is tightly connected and not leaking behind the fuse box location.
- Reassemble MICU/fuse box back in car by plugging the bottom-rear connectors first then the upper-rear row.
- Install upper-left 10mm bolt first then lower-right bolt. Check to see if the moon roof drain tube is not pinched by the wire harnesses.
- Install 2 side green connectors
- Install front-upper row of connectors then lower row starting from left to right. Check to make sure all connectors click.
- Install upper gray sliding connector.
- Hook up battery cable and test.
- Reinstall all plastic covers.
- You are done! So far I have not had a problem with the 160 ohm relay as opposed to the original 100 ohm relay.
This sounds like the fix that I need. Left my MDX with my parents for several days and came back to a dead MDX. Charged it overnight and found that the car won't lock from either the door switch or the remote key fob. Windows and hatch buttons work fine. Don't think I can do this soldering work, but I can likely remove the fuse assembly and replace it, if it really is a relay gone bad.
Good job on that awesome writeup. I had the same issue and ended up payin the $250 for the new MICU but it looks like you found a way to save a bunch! I ended up replacing the MICU my self which saved me money in the long run but it was definitely the culprit. It was so annoying having to manually lock every door before exiting the vehicle. Hardest part about this remove and replace job was getting everything disconnected and reconnected. You have to find ways to get your hands and tools into places blindly and awkwardly. I was all kinds of contorted in my drivers seat...upside down, backwards...trying to grab and remove these damn clamps I couldn't see was a pain but I got it done.
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.
You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5× ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.
I owe you BIG TIME!!!! I followed your instructions and got my locks fixed over the weekend. I've been living with this lock issue for the past year, I was getting so frustrated having to manually lock every single door. I've even tried changing the Driver door actuator to no avail. I used the Panasonic relay off ebay as you suggested. Biggest pain was getting that MICU unit out Especially the top and back connections. I would recommend using a Dental mirror tool like this: https://www.ebay.com/i/161521677017?chn=ps . Thanks again man, you saved me a bunch of $$$
Just a followup to this fix, after replacing the entire MICU unit, it had to be re-programmed by an Acura dealer. Sure enough, as I left, the door locks would not lock after I started driving. I went into the settings to reset everything to Default, and the locks worked OK, but it wouldn't allow me to program when the doors would lock. I would check to see if the problem persists if you reset the door locks to Default settings, before pulling out the MICU. Other than that, I still have a battery drain that isn't the Bluetooth unit.
Thank you for saving me $1k cause that is what the dealership quoted to replace the entire micu unit so I said f no and went home to research and found this thread. It took me about 5 hours because some genius decided to put a 2” screw on top of the unit that I could barley fit my fingers in at a angle. I replaced it with a 3/4”. At one point I was getting a bit worried if I could get back together but I guess you can’t really mess that part up cause the connectors can only go in one spot. The soldering part was a bit tricky probably cause I’m not very good at it so I had to get a friend to help. Got a whole wack of errors when started back up but all cleared after driving it a few minutes and locks are working now!! Thanks again.
Originally Posted by CWilly75
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.
06-03-2012, 08:40 PM
cause that is what the dealership quoted to replace the entire micu unit so I said f no and went home to research and found this thread. It took me about 5 hours because some genius decided to put a 2” screw on top of the unit that I could barley fit my fingers in at a angle. I replaced it with a 3/4”. At one point I was getting a bit worried if I could get back together but I guess you can’t really mess that part up cause the connectors can only go in one spot. The soldering part was a bit tricky probably cause I’m not very good at it so I had to get a friend to help. Got a whole wack of errors when started back up but all cleared after driving it a few minutes and locks are working now!! Thanks again. 
