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-   -   Doors won't lock with remote or door toggle button. (https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/doors-wont-lock-remote-door-toggle-button-859242/)

04tldude 06-03-2012 08:40 PM

Doors won't lock with remote or door toggle button.
 
Hello,

04 TL

For some time now, my doors will not lock with the remote or the door toggle switches. None of the door toggle switches lock the door where the switch is located. When I try the driver side switch none of the door lock as well. I can't imagine that all my actuators are bad so I can only assume that the driver side actuator is bad and affects all the rest. Does anyone know if this is in fact the case? Should I replace my actuator or could something else be wrong.

LoveMyTL-S 06-04-2012 08:10 AM

Check your fuses.......

NBP04TL4ME 06-04-2012 07:01 PM


Originally Posted by LoveMyTL-S (Post 13817347)
Check your fuses.......

That's a good place to start. Check fuse #8 in the interior fuse box.

04tldude 06-05-2012 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by LoveMyTL-S (Post 13817347)
Check your fuses.......

I checked the fuses and they are ok. I have read other threads about similar problems, but want to know if I should start check / replace the driver side actuator first. What I would like to know is, if there is a faulty drivers side actuator will that affect locking of other doors? None of my doors lock (key, switch, auto).... I have to manually press each knob down on every door.

maddsiick 09-26-2012 08:01 AM

Sorry to revive an old thread but I'm having the same issue too and I checked the fuse. Not sure what to try next before changing actuators in the doors.

jrocka312 09-26-2012 08:12 AM

I recently had my front passenger door actuator go out on me. Easy fix...believe it cost me about $18.00. Good luck!

maddsiick 09-27-2012 08:13 AM

were you having the same problem as 04tldude? None of my doors will lock using the keyfob or the switch inside. I have to manually close each door but opening the door with the switch or key works.

jrocka312 09-27-2012 09:37 AM


Originally Posted by maddsiick (Post 14064607)
were you having the same problem as 04tldude? None of my doors will lock using the keyfob or the switch inside. I have to manually close each door but opening the door with the switch or key works.

I wasn't having the same problem, as my issue was only with the front passenger door. I was unable to lock / unlock with the remote. I had to manually lock / unlock from inside the vehicle. $18.00 for a new actuator, and 20 minutes later problem fixed!

Bammylus 09-26-2016 10:11 AM


Originally Posted by 04tldude (Post 13816775)
Hello,

04 TL

For some time now, my doors will not lock with the remote or the door toggle switches. None of the door toggle switches lock the door where the switch is located. When I try the driver side switch none of the door lock as well. I can't imagine that all my actuators are bad so I can only assume that the driver side actuator is bad and affects all the rest. Does anyone know if this is in fact the case? Should I replace my actuator or could something else be wrong.

What was the resolution? I have the exact issue with all four doors not responding to the remote or the actual lock button inside the car. Is there a Master actuator the controls all four doors?

CWilly75 09-30-2016 10:42 PM

I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.

You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5ื ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.

You need to budget around 3-4 hours to work on this since it is a pain to get at all the connectors and it is a cramped area. You also need to have some soldering skills to de-solder and re-solder. A solder sucker is necessary.



- First unhook the negative terminal off the battery! Very important because you don not want to fry any components while taking off the wire harnesses.

- Remove the under dash cover above the brake pedal.
- Next take off the fuse covers and shroud around the hood release latch. We will be accessing the MICU/fuse box behind the hood latch lever.
- Start by taking off the yellow connector (think it might be for the air bags) by squeezing the connector towards you and then pull out.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...52d4ee9667.jpg
Grab under the yellow connector's outer shell and pull towards you while pushing on the center wire area.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ca3f41afa3.jpg
Squeeze then pull off the yellow connector.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...4d221c6d6e.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1ed04aeae0.jpg


- Take off the connectors by pushing down on the center tab and pull off. I would go right to left starting on the bottom row for the front side.
- Remove the 2 bolts that hold down the fuse box. One on bottom right and one on upper left (sorry no pic) I used an extension with a 10 mm socket for the upper-left bolt.
- Take off upper gray connector by releasing tab on the back (I think I broke this clip a bit)
- Take off the 2 green side connectors on the left.
- Take off the rear connectors starting from the upper-left top row when viewed on the back side (yes a real pain). Then unhook the bottom row. Take your time...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...91a750fbc2.jpg
You should end up with this.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...a02f148c5d.jpg
Insert screwdriver to release tab and take off metal bracket.

- Use flat bladed screwdriver to carefully pry apart red circled tabs and insert small tip screwdriver behind yellow circles to release tabs while slowly prying it open. I started near the upper-left first.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1809fcceb3.jpg
Insert small flat bladed screwdriver behind the yellow circles and carefully pry red circled tabs.

- Carefully separate the gray shell and don't bend any pins
- Separate the circuit board by rocking back and forth holding the green connector or the relay on the upper left (Taiko TB2-100P) We will be replacing that one.
It is connected to the brown shell under the white connector only

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...616d6749a2.jpg
Very gently rock circuit board back and forth from side to side to separate green circuit board.
Do not use a screwdriver or you might destroy the components on the backside!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...bb6a6d7d0f.jpg
The bad relay is the Taiko TB2-100P

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f261246fa6.jpg
Un-solder the 8 pins to remove the relay.

- I found it necessary to use a solder sucker. You can get one from Fry's or online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...b05230b7bf.jpg
Solder sucker.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...7d9cf80410.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f46415e88e.jpg

- Solder on new relay


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ba97c43fb6.jpg
New relay soldered. (Panasonic ACTB32) 12V 160 ohms

- Reassemble circuit board to brown backing. Careful not to bend any pins!

- Turn over and Install gray cover with pins toward you so you can see if the pins are aligned


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5515946192.jpg
Careful not to bend any pins.

- Now is a good time to inspect the moon roof drain tube to see if it is tightly connected and not leaking behind the fuse box location.
- Reassemble MICU/fuse box back in car by plugging the bottom-rear connectors first then the upper-rear row.
- Install upper-left 10mm bolt first then lower-right bolt. Check to see if the moon roof drain tube is not pinched by the wire harnesses.
- Install 2 side green connectors
- Install front-upper row of connectors then lower row starting from left to right. Check to make sure all connectors click.
- Install upper gray sliding connector.
- Hook up battery cable and test.
- Reinstall all plastic covers.

- You are done! So far I have not had a problem with the 160 ohm relay as opposed to the original 100 ohm relay.









Michael McIntire 05-20-2017 11:25 PM

Door won't lock 2
 
Did you ever figure out if the driver door was the main control to control the other actuators or are they all on their own seperate source?? My passenger door lock switch will not work I have replaced the actuator and the switch everything else works..

spinn 06-16-2017 04:07 PM


Originally Posted by CWilly75 (Post 15863124)
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.

You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5ื ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.

You need to budget around 3-4 hours to work on this since it is a pain to get at all the connectors and it is a cramped area. You also need to have some soldering skills to de-solder and re-solder. A solder sucker is necessary.



- First unhook the negative terminal off the battery! Very important because you don not want to fry any components while taking off the wire harnesses.

- Remove the under dash cover above the brake pedal.
- Next take off the fuse covers and shroud around the hood release latch. We will be accessing the MICU/fuse box behind the hood latch lever.
- Start by taking off the yellow connector (think it might be for the air bags) by squeezing the connector towards you and then pull out.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...52d4ee9667.jpg
Grab under the yellow connector's outer shell and pull towards you while pushing on the center wire area.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ca3f41afa3.jpg
Squeeze then pull off the yellow connector.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...4d221c6d6e.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1ed04aeae0.jpg


- Take off the connectors by pushing down on the center tab and pull off. I would go right to left starting on the bottom row for the front side.
- Remove the 2 bolts that hold down the fuse box. One on bottom right and one on upper left (sorry no pic) I used an extension with a 10 mm socket for the upper-left bolt.
- Take off upper gray connector by releasing tab on the back (I think I broke this clip a bit)
- Take off the 2 green side connectors on the left.
- Take off the rear connectors starting from the upper-left top row when viewed on the back side (yes a real pain). Then unhook the bottom row. Take your time...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...91a750fbc2.jpg
You should end up with this.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...a02f148c5d.jpg
Insert screwdriver to release tab and take off metal bracket.

- Use flat bladed screwdriver to carefully pry apart red circled tabs and insert small tip screwdriver behind yellow circles to release tabs while slowly prying it open. I started near the upper-left first.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1809fcceb3.jpg
Insert small flat bladed screwdriver behind the yellow circles and carefully pry red circled tabs.

- Carefully separate the gray shell and don't bend any pins
- Separate the circuit board by rocking back and forth holding the green connector or the relay on the upper left (Taiko TB2-100P) We will be replacing that one.
It is connected to the brown shell under the white connector only

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...616d6749a2.jpg
Very gently rock circuit board back and forth from side to side to separate green circuit board.
Do not use a screwdriver or you might destroy the components on the backside!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...bb6a6d7d0f.jpg
The bad relay is the Taiko TB2-100P

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f261246fa6.jpg
Un-solder the 8 pins to remove the relay.

- I found it necessary to use a solder sucker. You can get one from Fry's or online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...b05230b7bf.jpg
Solder sucker.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...7d9cf80410.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f46415e88e.jpg

- Solder on new relay


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ba97c43fb6.jpg
New relay soldered. (Panasonic ACTB32) 12V 160 ohms

- Reassemble circuit board to brown backing. Careful not to bend any pins!

- Turn over and Install gray cover with pins toward you so you can see if the pins are aligned


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5515946192.jpg
Careful not to bend any pins.

- Now is a good time to inspect the moon roof drain tube to see if it is tightly connected and not leaking behind the fuse box location.
- Reassemble MICU/fuse box back in car by plugging the bottom-rear connectors first then the upper-rear row.
- Install upper-left 10mm bolt first then lower-right bolt. Check to see if the moon roof drain tube is not pinched by the wire harnesses.
- Install 2 side green connectors
- Install front-upper row of connectors then lower row starting from left to right. Check to make sure all connectors click.
- Install upper gray sliding connector.
- Hook up battery cable and test.
- Reinstall all plastic covers.

- You are done! So far I have not had a problem with the 160 ohm relay as opposed to the original 100 ohm relay.

This sounds like the fix that I need. Left my MDX with my parents for several days and came back to a dead MDX. Charged it overnight and found that the car won't lock from either the door switch or the remote key fob. Windows and hatch buttons work fine. Don't think I can do this soldering work, but I can likely remove the fuse assembly and replace it, if it really is a relay gone bad.

Thomasv 07-26-2017 08:03 AM

Dude, Cwilly75 nailed it!

Good job on that awesome writeup. I had the same issue and ended up payin the $250 for the new MICU but it looks like you found a way to save a bunch! I ended up replacing the MICU my self which saved me money in the long run but it was definitely the culprit. It was so annoying having to manually lock every door before exiting the vehicle. Hardest part about this remove and replace job was getting everything disconnected and reconnected. You have to find ways to get your hands and tools into places blindly and awkwardly. I was all kinds of contorted in my drivers seat...upside down, backwards...trying to grab and remove these damn clamps I couldn't see was a pain but I got it done.

NBP04TL4ME 07-26-2017 12:22 PM

Excellent write up!! :thumbsup:

Bammylus 12-06-2017 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by CWilly75 (Post 15863124)
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.

You will need to order a new 8 pin relay. I could not find the exact replacement but I found one close on ebay. I bought the Panasonic 5ื ACTB32 25A FORWARD/REVERSE AUTOMOTIVE RELAY • DUAL 12V 160Ω COILS • 8 PINS.
It was 160 ohms coils instead of 100 ohms coils and came with 5 of them for around $7.

I owe you BIG TIME!!!! I followed your instructions and got my locks fixed over the weekend. I've been living with this lock issue for the past year, I was getting so frustrated having to manually lock every single door. I've even tried changing the Driver door actuator to no avail. I used the Panasonic relay off ebay as you suggested. Biggest pain was getting that MICU unit out Especially the top and back connections. I would recommend using a Dental mirror tool like this: https://www.ebay.com/i/161521677017?chn=ps . Thanks again man, you saved me a bunch of $$$

spinn 12-06-2017 11:30 AM

Just a followup to this fix, after replacing the entire MICU unit, it had to be re-programmed by an Acura dealer. Sure enough, as I left, the door locks would not lock after I started driving. I went into the settings to reset everything to Default, and the locks worked OK, but it wouldn't allow me to program when the doors would lock. I would check to see if the problem persists if you reset the door locks to Default settings, before pulling out the MICU. Other than that, I still have a battery drain that isn't the Bluetooth unit.

Yolo Yolo 01-04-2020 12:03 AM

cwilly75 is the man
 
Thank you for saving me $1k :bow:cause that is what the dealership quoted to replace the entire micu unit so I said f no and went home to research and found this thread. It took me about 5 hours because some genius decided to put a 2” screw on top of the unit that I could barley fit my fingers in at a angle. I replaced it with a 3/4”. At one point I was getting a bit worried if I could get back together but I guess you can’t really mess that part up cause the connectors can only go in one spot. The soldering part was a bit tricky probably cause I’m not very good at it so I had to get a friend to help. Got a whole wack of errors when started back up but all cleared after driving it a few minutes and locks are working now!! Thanks again.


Originally Posted by CWilly75 (Post 15863124)
I just fixed this yesterday. I started by testing all the actuators with a known good one in all 4 doors. Had to take all 4 doors apart. Still had same problem. Found out it is a bad relay inside the MICU (interior fuse box). I did not want to pay the $250 for a whole new unit.
Symptoms are a non-locking but able to unlock, and a faint click in the fuse box (behind the hood release lever) when using the door buttons to lock. Normal click sound when unlocking.



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