Door jamb switch wire broken

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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 01:40 PM
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Door jamb switch wire broken

This is a new one for me. Recently my 06 TL sat too long and needed a jump. Alarm goes off as soon as the charger is hooked up, but immediately stops before I can hit the key fob. The car is completely dark like it's not getting power from charger, but if turn the key I can start it. Problem is the alarm won't stop once the car starts. I searched out a bunch of things to try here and elsewhere, but nothing helps. Car is just powerless until started and then alarm will kick in and not stop.

My brother, former Acura mechanic, suggests that door switch may be bad. I replaced the passenger side one a few years ago and I know that's cheap & easy. I buy a new switch, but when I go to remove the old one I run into trouble. There is no slack to pull the switch out to disconnect it. I can move it around, but can't pull it out to get at the white plug into the switch. I don't know if it was me gently trying to get it out or it was already breaking, but after a minute of moving it around I realize the green wire has broken flush with the white clip. So now the switch comes out. I don't know if this was the source of the problem, but obviously now it's a problem. I call 2 different Acura dealerships, but they tell me they can't get me that white connector or what that white connector is. They can sell me a new floor wiring harness for about $900 though.

So I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to fix this. I did find some old parts on ebay that I could probably use and they're cheap. I can't get the pin out of the white connector as the wire is broken off just inside it and it just won't come out. I thought maybe I could solder directly to the door jamb switch, but there doesn't appear to be room to get at the point to get a good connection. I have been Googling like crazy to find that white connector ( in some pics it's blue), but no luck. It's probably $0.10, but I can't find what it is although it may be part of the floor harness # 32140-SEP-A12, but not sure of that part number.

I just need to figure out the best way to fix this. I took the trim off the interior so I can get at the wire. If I can find that white (or blue) connector then I could fashion a splice or if I can get that section from an old harness I could splice it in. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 01:44 PM
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If you can access both wires, I'd just get some similarly gauged wire, splice/butt connect them and then get a new male connector to wire in the new switch.
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
If you can access both wires, I'd just get some similarly gauged wire, splice/butt connect them and then get a new male connector to wire in the new switch.
I haven't been able to find a part number for the connector into the door jamb switch and the wire is broken just inside that connector. I can't even get the pin/wire out of the connector. I was able to find a used door jamb switch on ebay that has the connector and a length of wire from the harness on it and I went ahead and ordered it. Trying to find the part number for that connector is like looking for a needle in a haystack. My worry next is that this may not fix the problem with the alarm lol.
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Old Dec 17, 2019 | 10:16 AM
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I was able to splice in a new connector. Door switch seems to work (I can see door icon open and close on dash), but car still has alarm issues. Even with a fully charged battery (1 year old) the alarm does not blare when the new battery is hooked up. The car stays dark and remote key fobs will not work. I can start the car, but then the alarm will not stop blaring. I've tried a # of things I've seen here and elsewhere and nothing works. My brother (former Acura mechanic) still feels door switch is a problem somewhere, but he is not nearby and from what I've Googled that usually has the alarm going non-stop. In this case it's like the alarm is NOT armed until you start the car.

Going to look at hood latch, trunk latch and more fuses next. Will also search out how to disable the alarm horn. Any suggestions/advice are more than welcome. Car is in great shape except there is clearly a bad circuit somewhere. I still wonder if I didn't blow a fuse somewhere. When I jump started the car initially the alarm horn sounded briefly and I went to turn it off with key fob, but it almost seemed like the alarm stopped before I hit the button. I've jump started this car enough times and generally the alarm would keep sounding until pressed the key fob solidly and I'm not sure I did. Thanks for listening and I'm just venting now. Sucks having to try to work on a car outside in freezing cold rain and snow......and it's my daughter's car now not mine lol.
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Old Dec 17, 2019 | 11:06 AM
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check your hood and trunk latches next.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 02:27 PM
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Finally got back to this and hood latch seems to be an open circuit no matter what. I can press the switch with a screwdriver and hear it click, but my meter keeps reading an open circuit. Wondering if I just short the connector pins will the horn stop?
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 02:39 PM
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why not just replace the hood latch switch?
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 02:40 PM
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but to answer your question, yes shorting them should close the circuit and thus your car will stop complaining.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 03:24 PM
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I'll definitely replace it, I'm just still wondering if that's the problem. Also wondering if it's just an Open/Close switch or if the electronics are looking for a certain resistance.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 08:12 AM
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The car is fixed! So FWIW after fixing the driver door switch and wiring, I replaced the bad hood latch switch and still had issues. The car seemed to react normally at first with the alarm going off, but then just stopped again before I could disable it with the key fob. Same problem, car was dark and alarm would go off once started. I started pulling fuses and finally found a blown 7.5A fuse inside the car. Replaced that and now the alarm is going off constantly and key fob can't stop it, but at least it's different. Disconnected battery, shorted Pos to Neg for 15-20 minutes, reconnected and nothing. Hit the panic button on the key fob and alarm started and I was able to stop it with key fob. Now the doors lock and unlock and the car starts and runs perfectly.

I'm just going to assume that I probably shouldn't leave this car sitting for too long and then jump start it. In looking back I don't think the door switch was broken yet, but was probably intermittent. Maybe it was coincidence the hood latch died at the same time? Wondering if jump starting the car multiple times fried anything like the fuse. Any way it's running well now and maybe posting this will help someone else.
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