hey whats up guys? i have a 05 base TL 6MT with almost 80k miles on it. I bought in April of 2010 and i have driven it carefully without redlining every gear or dropping the clutch at every stop. Yea i also didnt drive it like grandma but i took care of it. So the other night im driving on the garden state parkway and i realized my clutch was slipping in third fourth fifth and sixth after 3500rpm. After i shit my pants i babied my car home and only drove it twice since then. Now the clutch is really slipping. it takes me a long time to get up to 70mph because i dont want to rev over 3k rpms. I know its gonna be gone soon so i searched on this forum and on the internet about the cost of getting the clutch pressure plate and all the bearings changed along with resurfacing the flywheel. i got enough information on the prices but now i am trying to figure out how i would go about changing the clutch myself. I am mechanically inclined and my buddy am I are going to change it in his car shop. I have the instructions on how to take the tranny apart but i don't have any information on how to get to the tranny in the first place, like what i need to take off first from when the car is fully assembled. Sorry for the long story and i appreciate you reading this but where can i go online to find the full instructions for changing the clutch? Thanks guys


PS - apparently the previous owner beat the crap out of this car before me cuz recently i found out all the rims are bent and now the clutch is out at 80k miles. that is NOT normal. i got a really good price on the car so that's why i got it, now im just suffering the consequences.

 

if you're asking for a DIY, maybe this project isnt for you.
what I'm trying to say is, if you dont know your way around under the hood, as you asked what are the first steps......then maybe you shouldnt be doing this.


the shop manual called for the subframe to be removed/moved out of the way.
but my shop did it without moving the subframe.

 

i do know my way around the hood pretty well actually but what im asking for is something that will tell me what to take off and what i don't need to take off. if i was to start know with no instructions, i would probably take something off that i do not need to. So that is what i am trying to avoid. and my buddy whos been a mechanic for 10 years will do most of the work, im just going to help him. so any instructions on what really needs to be taken out of the way would be really appreciated. thanks guys

 

Get a FSM. Not saying it can't be done, but I'd be cautious resurfacing the DMF and check the springs very closely.

 

^translation:

Get the factory service manual from Helm's. It will give you step by step instructions. Although as justn says, there are other ways to do it.

It's probably worth the money to replace the dual mass flywheel instead of cutting it.

Or go with an aftermarket unit. Clutchmasters has a kit and Josh at Excelerate may be able to hook you up with his new parts. At the very least, he can get you the CM kit. There's also the dual disc kit from J&R. That's what I have.

 

Klutch, when performing the work, Please take pictures and a write up a DIY!

 

Special Tools Required
Pressure plate compressor 07AAE-P8EA000
Clutch alignment shaft 07AAF-P8EA000
Pressure plate compressor adapter 07AAK-P8EA000
Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003
Attachment, 37 x 40 mm 07746-0010200
Driver 07749-0010000

You must use the special tools required to remove and install the clutch pressure plate or you will irreversibly damage it.


Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.

Lock the steering wheel.

Remove the left rear engine compartment cover

Remove the right side engine compartment cover

Remove the intake manifold cover

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable. Remove the battery.

Remove the battery base

Remove strut bar with fuse box

Disconnect the back-up light switch connector

Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor

Remove the harness clips then disconnect the vacuum hose

Disconnect starter wires, then remove starter.

Remove the cable bracket then disconnect the cables from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together to avoid bending the cables.

Disconnect the vacuum hose

Carefully remove the slave cylinder without bending the clutch line. Do not press the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.


Remove the front engine mount mounting nuts front engine mount stop and the front engine mount mounting bolt

Remove the transmission upper mounting bolts.

Remove the steering joint cover (A).

Make a reference mark across the steering joint and steering gearbox pinion shaft Remove the steering joint bolt and disconnect the steering joint by removing the steering joint toward the steering column. Hold the slider shaft on the column with a piece of wire between the joint yoke on the slider shaft to the joint yoke on the upper shaft

Remove the transmission mount bracket

Support engine

Raise vehicle.

Remove the engine under cover.

Drain the transmission fluid

Remove exhaust pipe A.

Separate the front stabilizer link.

Remove the damper fork.

Separate the knuckle from the lower arm.

Separate the tie-rod ball joint.

Remove the left and right driveshaft inboard joints.

Remove the intermediate shaft.

Remove the rear engine mount base bracket bolts

Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector.

Disconnect p/s line going to p/s pump.

Remove the transmission lower mount mounting nuts.

Remove all cradle bolts.

Lower cradle away from vehicle

Remove the last remaining transmission bolts

Lower transmission from the vehicle.

Replace the throw-out bearing and clutch.

Special tools required to remove and install new clutch.

 

cool!

 

Oh man I really do not want to to this on my tls have been pushing it off have new clutch set sitting in garage got from clutch city 220 shipped. Just don't have time or want to buy all those tools this is my 9th Acura/Honda and I'm sick of buying tools and helms manuals and learning all over again but I also hate driving old sh't maybe I'll just sell the car instead. Anyway clutch city gives you clutch,pressure plate, throw out bearing,and pilot bearing in the kit.

 

I hope it's ACURA oem parts and not some off-brand clutch and components. Many folks over the years have tried various clutches, one guy actually had a clutch disintegrate in his transmission and send shrapnel everywhere!

The only good clutches I've heard of is the one from Excelerate, the J&R one and the Factory one.

 

the factory one is made by LUK

 

Thanks for that info Just as long as you stay away from the "ebay" specials you should be fine. After that one member had it cut a hole in his floorboard and trans case it's a bit unnerving...

 

Just got done replaceing the clutch on my 04. I started Saturday morning about 10am, worked on it until dark, Then started again sunday around 4pm, and finished around 9pm. I had the special tool and took a few pictures of it, i will post them up. It is very difficult to do the job on jackstands in your driveway. I would say I have a good 10-14 hours in it. As stated before the factory unit is LUK.

If you have any questions post up. I will be glad to help. Just try to get a friend to help, it is a bit difficult to remove the subframe by yourself, but it is do able.