I have tried searching the forums for a similar problem but didn't find a close enough match so I am really hoping someone can help me. I have used this forum as a resource for getting warranty work done and it has been very helpful. Unfortunately my car is out of warranty...time wise not mileage wise and any fix will most likely have to be done by myself with the help of a friend so I am really hoping the fix is something relatively easy that I can learn to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I apologize in advance for my lack of technical knowledge regarding the mechanics of a car...I really don't know much about how it all works so my description of the symptoms may leave something to be desired but it is the best way I can describe what occured.

I have about 42,000 miles on my 2006 Acura TL with a 6-speed manual transmission. It has been a few days since I last drove my car and today I started noticing mild difficultly accelerating in first gear, it was like there was a drag on the car.. like the parking brake was engaged. It seemed like the car just did not want to move starting out in first gear. The drag was not noticeable in the other gears while accelerating, only first gear when I was starting from a stop or near stop with the clutch pushed in at idle rpm. There were also weird rpm drops when I pressed in the clutch (neutral). It seems the tach dropped lower than I remember it typically dropping for idle as well as hanging/bouncing at different rpm spots that I am not used to seeing. Usually there is one hang which I believe is done for rev matching.

I also noticed a rough abnormal idle which proceeded to get really bad....all within about 20 miles of mainly city driving. As I pulled into my driveway my car was idling really rough, sputtering, shaking, and on the verge of dying (lights going on and off). The only thing that helped me get up my driveway in first gear was pressing in the clutch and revving a little then releasing. My car was sputtering, dying, and coming back alive with the application of gas in neutral. It almost sounded like when the engine turns over but won't start. At a higher rpm 3-4,000 the rough idle dissipated and the car seemed almost normal. It died several times and I kept restarting it and giving a little gas to keep the rpm up high enough to limp it into the garage. At higher rpm such as driving on the freeway, in gears other than first it seemed okay but I can't be sure because it was at its absolute worst as I arrived home. I also noticed an egg odor after I exited the freeway that I believe came from my car. I have smelled this before though so it may not be relevant to my issue.

I don't drive my car hard...sometimes a little spirited, but mostly average. Twice I accidentally hit the rev limiter trying to get up to speed on a short uphill freeway on ramp but the power was cut off as I believe it should have been and that was at least a year ago, if not longer. I have not hit a wrong gear and very rarely does anyone else drive the car.

I use premium fuel, 91 octane here in California.

I have only done the maintenance required according to the driver information system. I have not changed spark plugs. I believe I had the air filter/cabin filter changed and I have had all of the oil changes completed at the appropriate intervals.

I have had the clutch master cylinder and battery replaced under warranty.

Thank you for any ideas. I really have no idea where to start with this and it is the only vehicle I have.

~Jessika

 

The problem cold be your timing belt hydrological tentioner its probably leaking oil! when was the last time you had your timing belt done?
the tentioners cost about $104.09 bucks at the dealer and about half on the aftermarket retail

 

I have never done anything with the timing belt but I will look into that as it seems I am very close to needing it replaced, both time and mileage wise. Thank you!

 

Did you get any warning lights? Sounds like maybe a coil is bad and the car is misfiring.

 

I don't follow - timing belt replacement is 105K miles.

 

I don't believe I saw any lights come on. Not until the car was dead, but I think that always happens. Does anyone think it would be safe to start it up and double check...or should I just leave it alone until I have a way to fix it?

 

I couldn't help but start my car back up again and there were no lights and everything was running normally....I don't get it. There was definitely something seriously wrong earlier. I will test drive it tomorrow and see if the problem comes on gradually again like before. Thank you everyone for the responses.

 

Huh? At 46000 miles? I highly doubt it. Sounds more like an EGR valve problem.

Try cleaning it first .. if not inspect and replace. I can't see it being anything else. With 46k on an 06.. I can tell the car sits alot without being driven so crap could build up.

If its not that then repost. Here's a link:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/119-diy-egr-replacement-770698/

 

Also.. hit up Autozone and have them hook up a scanner and see if they can pull any codes.. specifically one for a CEL. Also look for a faulty Oxygen Sensor.

Another test you can do is accelerate with wide open throttle and see if you get a popping noise.

 

Yeah I am having trouble with my 1st gear as well, and it feels like the parking brake is on. But after 1st gear everything is super smooth. But i have to literally floor it to move from a stop light. IF someone has a clue please reply.

 

As an add on, I have a 2005 TL Auto navi, 33k miles. Please let me know if someone has resolved this issue or is a common issue. Have been searching the forums but cant find this issue.

 

EGR valve or failing APP Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor?

I had a EGR valve go bad-- the car idled badly, but was fine in gear. The Check Engine Light (CEL) did not illuminate until after a couple of days, after which the code could be read.

It sounds like a failing Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor if you have no other driveability issues.

 

Today I had the same problem as OP ( thank you for the thread )
I did not get any code and when putting on first gear the car was ruff at iddle. After driving for a few minutes the problem stop.
My car is 05 with 103k miles 6spd
I already done the timing belt and I also already replace the APP Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor because the sensor failed on me about 6 months.
If the problem continues I will remove the EGR valve and I will give a good clean.
Instructions on threads bellow.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770698

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/obd-code-p0404-694497/

 

Sounds to me like a bad COIL. When these are connected wrong or one is not working it will idol extremely rough AND have a lot of trouble accelerating since your running on less cylinders.

 

If it only happens in first gear you can pretty much rule out most of the suggestions in this thread. There are switches on the trans. One is for reverse and not sure what the other is but it may tell the ECU when its in 1st. Unplug these switches and the problem will probably go away. If it does, replace the bad switch. Search for posts by "Opel" on this subject.

 

i had that will my 00.. bad COIL

 

Hey guys,

Sorry to bring this thread back to life but I'm having a similar issue.
I drove down to Maryland this weekend for a friends wedding with no problem what so ever. Its was about a 500 mile road trip.

After letting the car sit overnight I took it out for a short drive to a friends house and all of a sudden I had a really low and rough idle. At one point the exhaust started to knock against frame or bumper of the car. I had no misfires or other issues after accelerating in and out of 1st gear.

After freaking out and letting the car sit for 10mins the problem disappeared!! With no check engine light...

My 07 tl-s 6 speed has about 76k miles. Can anyone shed light on this issue?

 

I may be misquoting but if I remember correctly, this sounds like a possible ECU problem caused by condensation dripping from the AC lines right onto the ecu. I can't quote any of my searches because I'm typing from my Iphone.

 

A/C line dripping on an ecu mounted under the radio?

 

Perhaps the EGR valve is somewhat plugged/dirty, but not to the point of throwing a CEL.

My TL developed a rough idle for several days (but no apparent issues above idle speed) before the CEL activated and showed an EGR issue @ 80K miles or so, IIRC.

It doesn't sound like an ECU, coil or engine/transmission mounts problem if it occurred once and only at idle.

 

Comptech, yea that's the one. The ECU goes bad and takes a few other electronics with it and is known to corrupt ignition coils as well.

 

I cleaned my EGR. I wont be able to drive the car again until the weekend. I'll report back then. Hopefully I don't have an ECU issue...

 

There are some common misconceptions about EGR. The car runs it's smoothest when there's no EGR. EGR is never supposed to flow at idle. Blocked EGR passages won't make the car run bad, not at all. The only time lots of carbon makes the car run bad is if it causes the valve to stick open all the time so the car gets EGR at idle or too much at part throttle. If there's a problem with the EGR, it's too much flow, not too little flow.

I blocked mine off and the car runs better at part throttle. I used a plate between the valve and housing to hopefully not get a CEL but as I already knew, ours actually senses flow and even though I got no light idling for a good 10 minutes, the first time I drove it, before I got out of the neighborhood I had a CEL. It's worth it IMO because the car just flat out runs better and I don't have to give it as much throttle when accelerating normally. You can always do what I did and block the EGR off with a 1/8" thick piece of metal under the valve. It's very easy to do.

 

Its been a while since i had my dash apart but I dont think I have ever seen an A/C line under the radio and above the ECU. But I could be wrong!

 

Just had my dash out the other week, no ac lines..

 

It's not AC lines that cause the problem. The catch tray from the evaporator is right above the ECU. If it overflows it's spilling on the ECU.

 

All these responses and not one "know" fix?

 

I think I may have it! The ECU has to relearn the idle any time after it looses power. The service manual states that you have to idle the car for approx 15 minutes with ALL ACCESSORIES TURNED OFF (A/C, radio, heated seats, etc). The cooling fan should kick on and off twice. After this is done, the car has releaned it's idle speed.

My 2004 TL had a low/weak battery and was doing what you describe. The RPM's would drop near 400-500 at redlights esp when the A/C kicked on/off.

I got a new battery and did the idle relearn procedure and the problem was fixed!

 

The odor, sputtering, drag in first gear, shaking, and not "cleaning up" until 3,000rpm is not related to the idle relearn. A low battery could explain it all.