Hi All,

Tonight I was sitting in my car maybe 20 mins trying to troubleshoot the xm navTraffic with the XM rep. After that point, while on hold, I started to hear a sounds coming from behind the radio. My first thought was that maybe the battery was dying so I attempted to start the car. Sure enough I wasn't able to start it. Wont even turn over once. When I turn the key, all of the lights on my gauges flicker super fast. A couple of times they continued to flicker until I turned the key all of the way back to the off position.

My question is, does this def sound like a battery issue (charging my battery jumper as I type)? Also why would this happen after such a short period on a year old Acura/Honda battery that was just just serviced/tested by Acura?

Note: I have enough power to turn on my HIDs and any other light. But did have to re-enter my navigation/radio codes.

 

battery.

 

Thanks. Will have to have Acura check that battery.

Considering going with another brand.

 

Hard to say with the info given but more than likely it is your battery. Is this the original OEM battery? With having to re-enter the codes for the Nav and radio it is a good indication that the battery is very very low.

 

It's an OEM battery, but not the original. Service history shows that a new battery was put in over a year ago. Have only had the car for a month. Plan to get my whole charging system checked.

 

Hey man, you 99% most likely need a battery. Mine does the exact same thing, I cant leave it with the key on for any amount of time or it will drain quicker than super glue dries! Batteries get charged by the alternator while running, and the car runs off the alternator as well; however, when the car is off, the only source of power is through the battery. Jump start it and you will probably be fine if its the first time it has happened, but get a new battery ASAP. It will only get worse until it wont hold a charge and once you shut it off, it wont start. The worse thing you can do is drive a car with a bad battery because the alternator will try and run at max output to keep it charged. This is what kills a alternator, it can burn up because its charging its maximum at all times. Best thing is to just get a battery as soon as you can. Im ordering an optima battery for like $150. You can use this part # and get one off amazon or another site for cheaper. That is if you want a optima. Its a better battery than OEM. Heres a link to check out the exact ones for our cars. You can get a Acura battery for the same price, why pay their insane markup on a crappy battery when you could get a better one for the same price. http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us..._button=Search

 

Acura advisor told me last weekend that if could prove purchase date on battery (i have service records) they would honor the batteries 100 month warranty. So I will start with them but will look into Optima for my future purchase. Planning on putting a small system (500w RMS) in so need to get this in order asap.

 

Mine is under warranty as well, but I don't want another battery from them. So im gonna get mine warrantied and then order an optima and switch it out the same day and just sell the new warranty one. Only thing is mine is an AcDelco battery...

 

That is slick! A very good idea. May have to follow suit.

I think right now getting the issue fixed permanently is enough to make me happy.

 

There is another thread talking about how the Optima batteries have changed their manufacturing methods and they are no longer all that great. I belivee the recommendation was for either Sears DieHard Platinum or Costco............. Would have to looks for the thread, but believe it was earlier this week. Believe Consumer Reports rated the DieHard pretty high as well.

 

Here is the thread I referred to, but there are a number of others as well.

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-diy-faq-74/optima-yellow-haha-905304/

 

Update:
I was able to jump start my car yesterday using one of those transportable jump starters. Car has been starting on its own ever since. Think it is either an issue with the reserve capacity of the battery (seeing as it died in < 20 mins with just lights and radio on) and not so much it's CCA ability. Plan to have autozone test the draw by the systems with car on/off and also have them test its reserve.

Thanks for the info you provided. DieHard has been leading the way for as long as I can remember. They seem really take pride in their product.

 

Glad I could help and hopefully you will be all set soon
Although I haven't replaced too many batteries (been pretty lucky with longevity), but have always done the replacement with a DieHard.