07 TL-S No Electrical Power
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
07 TL-S No Electrical Power
Hey what’s up guys. Hopefully someone can help. I got in my car the other day and everything came on as usual. When I turned the ignition. Everything shut off. I was like wtf. Removed the key and did it again and same thing happened. Lights came on and everything shut off. After this there has been no power at all.
I then proceeded and have done the following:
Battery was replaced like 2 months ago. I changed the battery just in case with a buddy’s battery and nothing. I checked the main fuse and it’s good. I even changed it just to double check and nothing. I check the voltage and it’s good. I check the voltage on the fuse box and it’s good. I checked all the fuses. Under the hood and inside the car. The grounds also look good. I even tried changing the ignition switch and nothing. I did take the whole hood fuse box out to make sure it wasn’t corroded underneath and it looked good. Now a weird thing did happen. When I put it back on the lights in the car came back on. When I gave it ignition it shut everything off again. I took it off again and connected it and it made no difference the second time around. Then I checked all wires on the fuse box one by one and they all seem fine and not loose or anything. I also checked for power at the starter and there is power there too.
Cant figure it out. Anybody wanna chime in?
I then proceeded and have done the following:
Battery was replaced like 2 months ago. I changed the battery just in case with a buddy’s battery and nothing. I checked the main fuse and it’s good. I even changed it just to double check and nothing. I check the voltage and it’s good. I check the voltage on the fuse box and it’s good. I checked all the fuses. Under the hood and inside the car. The grounds also look good. I even tried changing the ignition switch and nothing. I did take the whole hood fuse box out to make sure it wasn’t corroded underneath and it looked good. Now a weird thing did happen. When I put it back on the lights in the car came back on. When I gave it ignition it shut everything off again. I took it off again and connected it and it made no difference the second time around. Then I checked all wires on the fuse box one by one and they all seem fine and not loose or anything. I also checked for power at the starter and there is power there too.
Cant figure it out. Anybody wanna chime in?
Last edited by syn11; Oct 24, 2018 at 01:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
They’re not corroded. I actually just replaced the terminals a month ago. And there’s no power whatsoever. So no clicking sounds. No lights come on. No nothing. It’s as if I never paid my light bill. Lol
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Lol yeah man. Sucks. I even disconnected my amp and some other miscellaneous things I had connected to ensure it wasn’t causing a short of some kind. Shit has me going crazy.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 630
From: KCMO Burbs
Once you turn the key and the car goes dead:
- What does it take to get the car alive again?
- Even your dome light goes dead?
- Does the dome light turn back on when you remove the key?
- Once dead, have you checked voltage at all of those test points again?
My bet is your battery cable has internal damage. Wiggle it around and things will probably come back to life.
- What does it take to get the car alive again?
- Even your dome light goes dead?
- Does the dome light turn back on when you remove the key?
- Once dead, have you checked voltage at all of those test points again?
My bet is your battery cable has internal damage. Wiggle it around and things will probably come back to life.
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Once you turn the key and the car goes dead:
- What does it take to get the car alive again?
- Even your dome light goes dead?
- Does the dome light turn back on when you remove the key?
- Once dead, have you checked voltage at all of those test points again?
My bet is your battery cable has internal damage. Wiggle it around and things will probably come back to life.
- What does it take to get the car alive again?
- Even your dome light goes dead?
- Does the dome light turn back on when you remove the key?
- Once dead, have you checked voltage at all of those test points again?
My bet is your battery cable has internal damage. Wiggle it around and things will probably come back to life.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 630
From: KCMO Burbs
Good luck on this one.....sounds like you have covered the obvious already. When you test voltage, where are you touching for ground? At the battery? Or just chassis? The fact that the entire car goes dead should lead you back to the battery cables. Nothing else should make the entire car play dead.
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Good luck on this one.....sounds like you have covered the obvious already. When you test voltage, where are you touching for ground? At the battery? Or just chassis? The fact that the entire car goes dead should lead you back to the battery cables. Nothing else should make the entire car play dead.
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Racer
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 378
Likes: 102
My understanding is that you should be getting the same reading from [positive battery post to chassis ground - you got 2.7 you should get 12.6] as [positive battery post to negative battery post - 12.6]. The fact you don't makes me think you have corrosion/loose wire between negative battery post and chassis.
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
What do you get from battery negative post to chassis ground?
My understanding is that you should be getting the same reading from [positive battery post to chassis ground - you got 2.7 you should get 12.6] as [positive battery post to negative battery post - 12.6]. The fact you don't makes me think you have corrosion/loose wire between negative battery post and chassis.
My understanding is that you should be getting the same reading from [positive battery post to chassis ground - you got 2.7 you should get 12.6] as [positive battery post to negative battery post - 12.6]. The fact you don't makes me think you have corrosion/loose wire between negative battery post and chassis.
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