I've tried to do some searches, but my issue is kind of strange and I haven't found anything that exactly describes my issue. I apologize in advance if someone is able to find another thread with my problem in less than 5 minutes.

Two times I have shut off my car and it seems to lose all electric power. The electric locks don't work, can't start the car, no power at all. The two times this has happened I've opened my door lock by hand, open the door and closed it. I then make sure my ignition was all the way to off and then start it and it works fine. My ignition is a little loose, but other than that I've never had any electrical issues. When this happens my trip computer resets, but my navi and radio hold their codes. I also usually have to re-enable my auto down windows (hold for 2 seconds while down/up). I'm leaning towards an ignition switch, but also wonder if it's door relay related. My car has 76k miles on it, not that it really matters in this situation.

Any help is much appreciated!

 

How old is your battery?

Are your connections clean and tight?

What do you mean by your ignition is a little loose?

 

I just replaced my battery a few weeks ago, not because of the issue, but because it was over 5 years old and it was about to be negative 20. I can't remember if the first time was before or after the battery replacement, but I would guess afterwards. I did check the connections and they are tight. The car never has an issue starting, as in turning over but not starting, it actually loses all electricity after turning it off.

My key in my ignition has a little play, I wouldn't call it excessive, but it does wiggle while in the ignition.

 

So this electrical issue only presents itself when attempting to start the car? Or has your car died on you at some point? Definitely sounds like a bad connection somewhere, either ground or power side. At least that would be my first suspect. A faulty ignition switch wouldn't explain why your locks are not working or the trip computer is resetting. I would verify the battery terminals/connections are not corroded and make sure the grounding point for the negative battery cable is not loose or corroded. I would also check the main power feed/connection to the fuse box in the engine bay and make sure it is tight and you are getting ~12v.

 

I checked the ground and fuse box, both look clean, undamaged, and not corroded. I can post pics later for proof. The battery terminals look good too.

I notice the issue when I turn my car off. The door locks would usually electronically unlock, but they don't. I try to start the car again and it doesn't start, no lights, chimes, mechanical movement. I'm not sure if it's the turning it to the off position again or manually opening the door lock and the door that fixes it. I know it's fixed by sticking the key in and I get lights and chimes and the car starts perfectly.

 

Started and ran fine this morning...

 

That's an interesting one. You may be on to something with the ignition switch.

When your doors don't unlock once the car is turned off, are you able to unlock them with either door lock/unlock switch and/or via the key fob? Try that next time if you haven't already. If neither switch or key fob does not unlock the doors, then you may also have a problem with the MICU, which controls all of the door lock logic. The MICU wouldn't solve the no-start issue, but I would just make sure you don't have a two-part problem (eg. Ign switch and MICU)

 

Is anyone aware of an ignition switch replacement DIY? It seems it was a much larger issue with the 2nd gen TL's. I was thinking about buying 2004-2007 Acura TL Ignition Switch - Steering - Standard Motor Products 04-07 TL Ignition Switch - 17777-07043369 - PartsGeek
and replacing it myself, but I'm worried that messing with the ignition might cause my immobilizer to come on, is that something I should worry about?

 

Thanks for your reply. I have tried the lock switch, nothing happens. Its like the car loses all electric power to everything. The immobilizer key light on the dash doesn't blink or anything. I have not tried the fob yet, I will next time.

 

The windows and sunroof should work for a period of time after you turn off the ignition as well - until you open a door. Try those as well to supply another diagnostic data point.

 

Will do!

 

Well its back, and seems really bad. Nothing has changed, so its weird that is happening frequently after a long stretch of it not happening at all. There is absolutely zero electrical power when I turn the car off, no switches, chimes, and car will not start. Last night I thought I was stranded, I went to the battery and jiggled (its not loose, I just moved the wire) the positive lead and all of a sudden everything lit back up. There is very minor corrosion on the terminal, the wires all look good. I am going to clean the terminal again today, but any other ideas are appreciated.

 

Clean the terminal with sand paper to remove grime, both the battery posts and the lugs (roll up sand paper with sanding side facing outside and fit it in the hole).

Make sure the connections are snug and cannot be moved AFTER cleaning the terminals.


Edit: Oh and also, it might be the cable. They're not unbreakable. You can do the big 3 upgrade while at it.

 

I agree with Polo, if after cleaning the terminals on the battery and the connections from the cables you still have an issue, I would look at replacing the cables. It's not common but they can corrode and deteriorate from the inside and look fine on the outside.

 

Agreeing with the last two posts. Mine was doing similar things. There was just "slight" corrosion visible on the post. I took it all apart, cleaned it, lubed it up to try to keep it from getting corroded again and all was good.....for a few months. Then it came back again. Turns out the corrosion had eaten through the clamp which wasn't obvious until I pulled on the cable and it just fell apart.

If you have cleaned and lubed the post and clamp and it keeps getting corrosion, there is a chance your battery is leaking acid. Mine (an Acura branded battery) had a small crack just behind the positive post which is what was causing all of my issues. A new battery and a new cable/clamp resolved my issues.

 

Thank you for all of the suggestions, I will definitely try the cheaper, easier track first and move on from there. I will be sure to update this thread, hopefully it will help someone else in the future.

 

You mentioned that your battery was pretty new in your first post, so the corrosion is coming from somewhere. Several members mentioned the cables-- look at the positive battery cable first: feel along the sheathing for about 2-3 feet backwards from the battery clamp. If it doesn't feel solid, it's probably completely corroded and will need to be replaced.
It's apparently not hard to DIY, and the part cost about $50, IIRC from Admin Steven Bell's thread in this (3G TL) forum.

G/L.