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So, I was driving home with the Mrs today and saw this car parked on the side of the road. Long story short, for sale sign had $500, no A/C, minor oil leak, but runs GREAT. I test drove it and found myself signing the title and it's in my driveway.
2004 Acura TL with 237,634 miles. Owner was only selling because it was sitting after getting a truck. Maintenance up to par. Another issue is the dash is cracked up a bit.
Completely unplanned and the Mrs said, "Happy Father's Day"
Thank you all! Haven't done anything really yet but swap relays to see if I can get the AC compressor to kick on (didn't work) and a quick wash. I plan to try to reset the VSA light tomorrow and troubleshoot the AC compressor a little bit.
My other Acuras... Cleaned out the garage on Sunday to make room.
that $500 TL sure does look a hell a lot nicer than most of the TL in my area listed for $3500. BTW I like the MDX but can't deal with the oil consumption issue so only 07-09 for me lol.
that $500 TL sure does look a hell a lot nicer than most of the TL in my area listed for $3500. BTW I like the MDX but can't deal with the oil consumption issue so only 07-09 for me lol.
Agreed an that's why I couldn't pass... Single owner as well and had all the paperwork from original purchase.
Acura rebuilt the engine on the MDX with consumption tests last year. So far, so good and feels brand new again at no charge
So over the weekend, car died. I tried to jump start it and didn't work, so I got my wife to tow me home (thankfully I wasn't far from the house). I still had all accessories turning on and battery voltage read 12v, so I suspected it was the starter. Pulled it out and tested fine. AutoZone dude asked about the battery, so we tested it and confirmed it was drained, but still good. Went home, recharged the battery, and reinstalled the starter.
Once battery was charged, reinstalled and car fired right up! Used my tester and confirmed 14v reading and verified alternator was good. Jumped on AZ and read how HFL fails can drain the battery. I disconnected that yesterday, but also identified the factory amp was extremely hot to touch. I found a video how the failed amp can draw current, so I disconnected it.
The amp is not working, volume to the max (40) and radio is still low. I'm going to attempt to replace the caps in the amp from a DIY I found on here over the next month or two. Right now, just trying to verify I found what's killing the battery.
Been slowly getting the TL back into daily driving condition. Ordered new rotors, brake pads, lift supports, cabin air filter, and new Bosch wipers (already installed). Plan to install next week with an oil & filter change. Also, no radio at the moment due to amp draining battery. Plan to rebuild the amp as the next DIY.
Spent this morning installing brake pads, rotors, oil change & filter. I also installed new Strong Arm hood lift supports.
Up on jack stands
Had to get an impact screwdriver to get the damn rotor screws out. Turns out to be a wise investment cause these things were rusted bad and made the job 100x easier.
Quick comparison... Front driver side
Hood lift supports definitely make a huge difference No more squealing!
Knocked out all four, degreased and cleaned the wheels, and completed the oil change in about 5 hours. Still need to do a transmission drain and fill, but I couldn't remember the ATF type. Will do that in a few weeks.
Been slowly getting the TL back into daily driving condition. Ordered new rotors, brake pads, lift supports, cabin air filter, and new Bosch wipers (already installed). Plan to install next week with an oil & filter change. Also, no radio at the moment due to amp draining battery. Plan to rebuild the amp as the next DIY.
The car looks great; did you ever get the A/C working?
Use Honda DW-1 ATF; accept no substitutes.
Thank you, Sir! I have not, but confirmed the A/C compressor is shot. My plan is to get that done next year. I noticed quite a bit of oil under the transmission and around the power steering yesterday, so I want to chase down those first.
So I noticed intermittent starting issues on my TL. I would turn the key to the second position, wait a few seconds for fuel pump to prime, and then try to start and it doesn't. I turn it off and then repeat and it usually starts on the second attempt.
I also need to unlink the key FOB from the previous owners position, but wanted to ask if anyone can confirm if they had similar starting issues and was it the ignition switch that resolved it.
Also, I have a list ready for the transmission maintenance as follows:
So I noticed intermittent starting issues on my TL. I would turn the key to the second position, wait a few seconds for fuel pump to prime, and then try to start and it doesn't. I turn it off and then repeat and it usually starts on the second attempt.
I also need to unlink the key FOB from the previous owners position, but wanted to ask if anyone can confirm if they had similar starting issues and was it the ignition switch that resolved it.
Also, I have a list ready for the transmission maintenance as follows:
Gasket (10MM) - Acura (90471-PW7-A00) number 17 (x2) $3 each
ATF filter (25450-RAY-003) $19
Spring (25803-RAY-000) $2
Gasket filter (91302-RAY-003) $4
Cap O-Ring (91301-RAY-004) $6
O-Ring (x2) (94109-12000) $1 each
Solenoid gasket liner (28252-PAX-000) $5
3 quarts of DW-1 ATF
Parts were ordered and was planning to start this job tomorrow, but while driving today, I noticed some smoke coming from the hood. I was heading to AutoZone to get rear mirror adhesive to reattach my rearview mirror (Mrs pulled it off a few days ago).
Turns out, oil is leaking from the valve cover gasket onto the front exhaust. I just ordered new valve cover gaskets and NGK Iridium spark plugs from Rock Auto.
Second attempt.. first time, I used the cheapest glue and didn't sand the button. It fell off after letting it cure for only 1 hour. This time, I bought the extreme adhesive, I sanded all the old glue off and reattached. I'm letting it cure for 24 hours before reinstallation.
did you use any adhesion wipes? 3M window weld works great also.
I used the Permatex Extreme Strength Rear View Mirror adhesive. I haven't mounted the mirror yet, but plan to do it tomorrow morning. I did check the button and it feels secure.
So, I successfully reattached my rear view mirror and decided to tackle the driver door actuator to have the power lock work again. Ended up being a bit more than I planned and had to watch a few YouTube videos to figure it out. Overall, job is not hard, just need patience. Took about 2 hours, but could save time next go round.
Mirror reattached. I ended up having to adjust the clip for it to snap in. Lock assembly out. Biggest tip is to leave the window up! Also, you have to remove the window glass guide (I had to reattach the door panel and put the window up). Old vs new. I ended up swapping over that pink adapter and used a dremel to allow the new actuator to seat probably (off a few mm) into the assembly. New actuator seated in place, screwed in, and door lock cable reattached. Cover back on and reassembled. All back together!
All is well, door locks and unlocks from the buttons and key fobs. The little things sometimes can be so rewarding. I need to do this on my RSX lol.
^
Nice job!
I was able to get about 24 months of adherence from the regular Permatex RV mirror adhesive kit on my mothers car. Then, about 4-6 weeks ago, it decided to fall off the wind shield. Second time around, I used the 'extreme strength' kit and it is good to go so far. Cleaning the wind shield and the RV mirror mount tab is real important as well as giving the adhesive time to cure. Here, in FL, the sun / heat will wreak havoc on the adhesive and eventually soften it enough to fail. Just one of those things.
^
Nice job!
I was able to get about 24 months of adherence from the regular Permatex RV mirror adhesive kit on my mothers car. Then, about 4-6 weeks ago, it decided to fall off the wind shield. Second time around, I used the 'extreme strength' kit and it is good to go so far. Cleaning the wind shield and the RV mirror mount tab is real important as well as giving the adhesive time to cure. Here, in FL, the sun / heat will wreak havoc on the adhesive and eventually soften it enough to fail. Just one of those things.
That's reassuring and hopefully this one holds for a while. Looks like the previous owner had to reattach it at one point from seeing glue residue on the plastic covering. As usual, when in take my time and prep, the outcome meets or exceeds expectations.
Goes to show Acura TL (3G) is well built. Even after 240K since 2004 it still looks great. I can imagine my 2006 6 speed MT with only 50K will be bedding with me for the rest of my life because there's no value in selling them now.
The TLC you're giving your car warms my heart! I recently purchased an '05 TL Base 6MT and am also slowly ironing out the kinks. I plan to keep it forever!
The TLC you're giving your car warms my heart! I recently purchased an '05 TL Base 6MT and am also slowly ironing out the kinks. I plan to keep it forever!
Congratulations on the TL 6MT! Here are a few tips for 6MT owners:
Use ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified, part number 10-4014 in your gearbox to maintain (or restore) smooth shifting
If/when you need a clutch, RockAuto has the OEM clutch parts (basically the Dual-Mass Flywheel and Clutch Kit) from LuK for very reasonable money
If/when you do the clutch, it is highly advisable to do the rear-main seal at the same time
Today, I finally had some time to tackle the oil leak on the TL. At the same time, I decided to install new NGK sparkplugs and I realized the PCV valve was shot, so I replaced that as well.
The good... Its a relatively easy job. Just need patience.
The bad... The old spark plug grommets were a PITA to remove. Pay attention or you will f@#k like I did and have to go buy another kit ($45 gone) because I damaged 2 of the new seals.
The ugly... use a DAMN torque wrench. I snapped one of the rear valve cover bolts over torquing it
The stuff I expected to give me issues did not... For a 16 year old car with 237k+ miles, engine looked healthy at least.
Intake manifold had oil inside. Used brake cleaner and cleaned it out Once intake mani was off, I can see oil residue on both valve covers. New NGK Iridium plugs. The old plug were still in good condition, so it's a good sign. They were super tight, so I used a little WD-40 as I didn't want them to break. Front cover removed. Visual inspection and everything looked good. Before After Went with the Felpro kit from rockauto. At this point I realized the PCV valve was trash, so had to scoop one from Discount Auto Parts. Removed rear valve cover. Visual inspection, all looks good. Installed new gasket. TIP: add grease to the new spark plugs grommets BEFORE installing. I didn't, on the front and had no issues... But the rear was a different story. I accidentally installed one backwards and it wouldn't come out. New kit for 2 new spark plug grommets. Damaged new seal. I ended up putting grease and they slid right in without any issues. Reinstalled valve covers. TIP: use a torque wrench to torque it to specs (8.7ft/lbs for valve cover). I didn't and snapped one bolt. My heart sank. There's no way I can extract it, so I just put Permatex grey gasket maker all along the valve cover and around the snapped bolt. Reinstalled intake manifold and torqued to 16ft/lbs in the correct pattern. Also reconnected everything I disconnected to get the job done. All done! Waiting until tomorrow afternoon to start her up and verify no leaks.
Overall, straight forward job and I'm pissed that I snapped a bolt. Really hope the gasket maker holds it and there are no more leaks.
Good job, you shoulda get the OEM gasket its cheap. I recommend people replacing the valve cover bolt when doing a valve cover gasket replacement since the front bank tend to be brittle over time do to extreme heat. You can set the torque on the torque wrench all you want and the bolt still break.
06-20-2020, 09:23 PM
Just one of those things.
