2004 Acura TL - Impromptu acquisition
#41
Good job, you shoulda get the OEM gasket its cheap. I recommend people replacing the valve cover bolt when doing a valve cover gasket replacement since the front bank tend to be brittle over time do to extreme heat. You can set the torque on the torque wrench all you want and the bolt still break.
#42
Still leaking...
So I've noticed the car is still dripping and it has gotten progressively worse... I pulled the plastic panels in th the bay and noticed the power steering pump was soaked. I opened the reservoir and the fluid level was extremely low.
I searched elsewhere up top and it looks like the leaks by the valve cover gaskets are fixed thankfully! Jacked up the car and the entire undercarriage is soaked.
It feels like power steering fluid, so I plan to change the pump next weekend. I checked around the transmission and I don't see any visible signs of a leak. However, I need to degrease the undercarriage and see if there are any other leaks (could be residue from the previous oil leak from the valve cover gaskets).
Is there something I should look out for other than power steering that could be leaking?
I searched elsewhere up top and it looks like the leaks by the valve cover gaskets are fixed thankfully! Jacked up the car and the entire undercarriage is soaked.
It feels like power steering fluid, so I plan to change the pump next weekend. I checked around the transmission and I don't see any visible signs of a leak. However, I need to degrease the undercarriage and see if there are any other leaks (could be residue from the previous oil leak from the valve cover gaskets).
Is there something I should look out for other than power steering that could be leaking?
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (01-21-2021)
#44
So I've noticed the car is still dripping and it has gotten progressively worse... I pulled the plastic panels in th the bay and noticed the power steering pump was soaked. I opened the reservoir and the fluid level was extremely low.
I searched elsewhere up top and it looks like the leaks by the valve cover gaskets are fixed thankfully! Jacked up the car and the entire undercarriage is soaked.
It feels like power steering fluid, so I plan to change the pump next weekend. I checked around the transmission and I don't see any visible signs of a leak. However, I need to degrease the undercarriage and see if there are any other leaks (could be residue from the previous oil leak from the valve cover gaskets).
Is there something I should look out for other than power steering that could be leaking?
I searched elsewhere up top and it looks like the leaks by the valve cover gaskets are fixed thankfully! Jacked up the car and the entire undercarriage is soaked.
It feels like power steering fluid, so I plan to change the pump next weekend. I checked around the transmission and I don't see any visible signs of a leak. However, I need to degrease the undercarriage and see if there are any other leaks (could be residue from the previous oil leak from the valve cover gaskets).
Is there something I should look out for other than power steering that could be leaking?
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (01-21-2021)
#45
Good call! I will inspect the hoses as well for any cracks. Thanks!
#46
Replaced power steering pump
So, went ahead and tackled the power steering pump today. I picked up an impact wrench from Harbor freight because I couldn't pull the 19mm nut. I also drained, cleaned and reinstalled the reservoir (also checked he hoses for leaks).
Impact wrench worked like a charm!
New pump with pulley reinstalled.
Another angle
Checking fitment.
Lines back in.
Installed, started and everything looks good... No noise and no leaks.
There is a slight dance on the tensioner pulley and I don't know if it was there before. The belt looks fine, I checked the belt alignment with the other pulleys and everything looks good. It only dances slightly on the tensioner... Should I be concerned?
Impact wrench worked like a charm!
New pump with pulley reinstalled.
Another angle
Checking fitment.
Lines back in.
Installed, started and everything looks good... No noise and no leaks.
There is a slight dance on the tensioner pulley and I don't know if it was there before. The belt looks fine, I checked the belt alignment with the other pulleys and everything looks good. It only dances slightly on the tensioner... Should I be concerned?
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (02-01-2021)
#49
Crazy the tensioner price delta. Would an 07-08 5AT work on an 04 5AT?
#50
Thanks! I've driven a couple times and no issues so far. Will definitely keep an eye on it. Wished I looked at this before, but realized the plastic engine covering blocks my view of the P/S, so I doubt Iwould have noticed it before.
Crazy the tensioner price delta. Would an 07-08 5AT work on an 04 5AT?
Crazy the tensioner price delta. Would an 07-08 5AT work on an 04 5AT?
Honestly even I having a hard time telling the difference between the 2. I have them both may be I need to dig out my stash of part and compare them side by side.
#51
Quick wash... Such a timeless look
Been a little stressed out and got bad news today. Decided to do a little therapy and wash a car. I've realized washing cars tends to relax me. Also, the end result is some pictures!
There's still a leak, but it's not as bad as before. The car maintenance work is starting to pile up on the various vehicles unfortunately. I've been battling trying to get NAVTOOL to work in the MDX
There's still a leak, but it's not as bad as before. The car maintenance work is starting to pile up on the various vehicles unfortunately. I've been battling trying to get NAVTOOL to work in the MDX
#53
It's not the power steering or valve cover gaskets, so I'm thinking it's by the oil pump, RMS, and/or oil pan. I need to degrease the undercarriage and locate it.
As for NAVTOOL, I've tested 2 Android phones with extremely limited success. I've gotten the screen to pop up and work, until after 15-20 mins, it freezes. I contacted NAVTOOL, but haven't heard back. I need to try another phone, just don't have access at the moment. Will borrow my niece's iPhone 11 and see if that works to rule out the Android phones as the issue.
#54
Where is the leak locate under your engine bay? I got a leak by oil pan since some knuckle head decided to use a cheap aftermarket drain plug. I being an idiots at the moment drain all the oil and realize that mistake, I had to deal with the oil leak for awhile until recently.
I did the oil change with OEM drain plug and new crush washer. Voila no more leak by the bottom of the oil pan, however I see new leak from PS hose that lead to the PS cooler.
I did the oil change with OEM drain plug and new crush washer. Voila no more leak by the bottom of the oil pan, however I see new leak from PS hose that lead to the PS cooler.
#55
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,016
Likes: 20,033
Awesome find!
I've found that the cheaper the car, the more expensive the car!
Look into the power steering pump leaking for your "oil" leak, I thought it was an oil leak and it ended up being the power steering pump, there's a DIY here.
for the valve covers, I went through the same shit...
I learned from my acura tech buddies...lube everything with silicone grease or spray, spark plug seals, the vc gasket seal...then you just set it down and move in a
circular motion and it'll slide over the tubes without cutting them.
Anything under 20 ft/lb I just put a 1/4" ratchet in the palm of my hand...that's almost no torque...plus, those bottom out so you don't want to push past that or you'll
snap.
I'll be checking in on your fixes, this is awesome!
I've found that the cheaper the car, the more expensive the car!
Look into the power steering pump leaking for your "oil" leak, I thought it was an oil leak and it ended up being the power steering pump, there's a DIY here.
for the valve covers, I went through the same shit...
I learned from my acura tech buddies...lube everything with silicone grease or spray, spark plug seals, the vc gasket seal...then you just set it down and move in a
circular motion and it'll slide over the tubes without cutting them.
Anything under 20 ft/lb I just put a 1/4" ratchet in the palm of my hand...that's almost no torque...plus, those bottom out so you don't want to push past that or you'll
snap.
I'll be checking in on your fixes, this is awesome!
#56
Where is the leak locate under your engine bay? I got a leak by oil pan since some knuckle head decided to use a cheap aftermarket drain plug. I being an idiots at the moment drain all the oil and realize that mistake, I had to deal with the oil leak for awhile until recently.
I did the oil change with OEM drain plug and new crush washer. Voila no more leak by the bottom of the oil pan, however I see new leak from PS hose that lead to the PS cooler.
I did the oil change with OEM drain plug and new crush washer. Voila no more leak by the bottom of the oil pan, however I see new leak from PS hose that lead to the PS cooler.
Awesome find!
I've found that the cheaper the car, the more expensive the car!
Look into the power steering pump leaking for your "oil" leak, I thought it was an oil leak and it ended up being the power steering pump, there's a DIY here.
for the valve covers, I went through the same shit...
I learned from my acura tech buddies...lube everything with silicone grease or spray, spark plug seals, the vc gasket seal...then you just set it down and move in a
circular motion and it'll slide over the tubes without cutting them.
Anything under 20 ft/lb I just put a 1/4" ratchet in the palm of my hand...that's almost no torque...plus, those bottom out so you don't want to push past that or you'll
snap.
I'll be checking in on your fixes, this is awesome!
I've found that the cheaper the car, the more expensive the car!
Look into the power steering pump leaking for your "oil" leak, I thought it was an oil leak and it ended up being the power steering pump, there's a DIY here.
for the valve covers, I went through the same shit...
I learned from my acura tech buddies...lube everything with silicone grease or spray, spark plug seals, the vc gasket seal...then you just set it down and move in a
circular motion and it'll slide over the tubes without cutting them.
Anything under 20 ft/lb I just put a 1/4" ratchet in the palm of my hand...that's almost no torque...plus, those bottom out so you don't want to push past that or you'll
snap.
I'll be checking in on your fixes, this is awesome!
#57
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,016
Likes: 20,033
if you're lucky it'll just be the vtec solenoid gasket.
My apologies, when I replied I hadn't seen a second page
My work computer loads pictures slowly for some reason.
Anyway, I hope your news smooths over...I also find that washing the car
keeps me sane when there's a house full of kids or some bs to deal with.
My apologies, when I replied I hadn't seen a second page
My work computer loads pictures slowly for some reason.
Anyway, I hope your news smooths over...I also find that washing the car
keeps me sane when there's a house full of kids or some bs to deal with.
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (02-09-2021)
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (02-09-2021)
#59
Found the leak... Oil pump
I'm pretty confident it's leaking at the oil pump and from research, it's not an easy fix
So, debating if I should do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and A/C just because it's dripping... This is not going to be cheap and I'm in the process of building a pool at my house (just signed the contract). Also, I was hoping to get my RSX in the shop this summer to get the engine inspected from a previous hydrolock.
To add insult, the wife's MDX is leaking from the rear main seal. Just had the engine rebuilt in 2019 at around 130K and didn't think to ask about replacing the RMS
Might have to live with both vehicles dripping for now.
So, debating if I should do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and A/C just because it's dripping... This is not going to be cheap and I'm in the process of building a pool at my house (just signed the contract). Also, I was hoping to get my RSX in the shop this summer to get the engine inspected from a previous hydrolock.
To add insult, the wife's MDX is leaking from the rear main seal. Just had the engine rebuilt in 2019 at around 130K and didn't think to ask about replacing the RMS
Might have to live with both vehicles dripping for now.
#60
I'm pretty confident it's leaking at the oil pump and from research, it's not an easy fix
So, debating if I should do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and A/C just because it's dripping... This is not going to be cheap and I'm in the process of building a pool at my house (just signed the contract). Also, I was hoping to get my RSX in the shop this summer to get the engine inspected from a previous hydrolock.
To add insult, the wife's MDX is leaking from the rear main seal. Just had the engine rebuilt in 2019 at around 130K and didn't think to ask about replacing the RMS
Might have to live with both vehicles dripping for now.
So, debating if I should do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and A/C just because it's dripping... This is not going to be cheap and I'm in the process of building a pool at my house (just signed the contract). Also, I was hoping to get my RSX in the shop this summer to get the engine inspected from a previous hydrolock.
To add insult, the wife's MDX is leaking from the rear main seal. Just had the engine rebuilt in 2019 at around 130K and didn't think to ask about replacing the RMS
Might have to live with both vehicles dripping for now.
#61
The good news is, oil is cheap, keep filling the engine up and you'll be good to go until such time as the timing belt is due for the TL. The MDX is a different story, the rear main is a pain in the hind parts to get to, although it may be easier on the MDX than on a TL.
#62
Driver window took a dump
Driving in to work today... As I hit the window button I heard a bunch of things fall in the door panel. Next, the driver window slid down and I caught it with my hand.
Got to work and had to tape the window up (potentially raining this afternoon). Unsure what happened, so I'm going to have to take the door apart.
#65
It depends upon the car, I've purchased new units for half that as well; I just don't know what the regulator for a 3G TL goes for.
Edit: I just checked NAPA, they have two regulators for the front left, one for $51.99 and a second for $118.99.
Edit: I just checked NAPA, they have two regulators for the front left, one for $51.99 and a second for $118.99.
Last edited by horseshoez; 05-06-2021 at 03:00 PM.
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (05-06-2021)
#66
Thanks for the input! Just checked rockauto and they have an aftermarket brand for $32 plus shipping. I should have time to remove the door panel tomorrow afternoon to assess. Will share what I find.
#67
Failed window regulator
Finally had time to take the door apart and sure enough, it was a failed window regulator.
Pieces collected
New front left window regulator from NAPA ($85 w/ AAA discount)
Pieces collected
New front left window regulator from NAPA ($85 w/ AAA discount)
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (05-23-2021)
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (05-23-2021)
#70
The following users liked this post:
Acura TL Builder (05-23-2021)
#73
Window regulator failed again
So, I've been driving trouble free and was getting excited to finally have a day (tomorrow) to scour some junk yards for misc TL parts.
I get home, wind up my driver window and I hear a snap. The windows starts creeping down
I just replaced this regulator in May 2021.
I get home, wind up my driver window and I hear a snap. The windows starts creeping down
I just replaced this regulator in May 2021.
#74
I learned the hard way years ago, not all aftermarket regulators are created equal.
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (08-19-2021)
#75
The following users liked this post:
horseshoez (08-19-2021)
#76
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,016
Likes: 20,033
My regulator on the 04 doesn't seem to like to work when it's hot out.
check out ebay "dixie" window regulators...the guy Joe rebuilds OEM ones...
I'm planning to pull mine to grab one. Good thing about the junkyard is the door
panels are usually already off the cars.
I have gone twice in the last week to find parts for my new to me 04.
check out ebay "dixie" window regulators...the guy Joe rebuilds OEM ones...
I'm planning to pull mine to grab one. Good thing about the junkyard is the door
panels are usually already off the cars.
I have gone twice in the last week to find parts for my new to me 04.
The following users liked this post:
nats007 (08-19-2021)
#77
My regulator on the 04 doesn't seem to like to work when it's hot out.
check out ebay "dixie" window regulators...the guy Joe rebuilds OEM ones...
I'm planning to pull mine to grab one. Good thing about the junkyard is the door
panels are usually already off the cars.
I have gone twice in the last week to find parts for my new to me 04.
check out ebay "dixie" window regulators...the guy Joe rebuilds OEM ones...
I'm planning to pull mine to grab one. Good thing about the junkyard is the door
panels are usually already off the cars.
I have gone twice in the last week to find parts for my new to me 04.
Its parked with the RSX in the garage. I'll daily the Mrs Mazda3 until I get some time to tinker again. Plan to do an engine oil change and transmission oil change this weekend on the TL anyway.
#79
Radio and window working again
So, I had the day off, wife's on a trip, and kids in school... This left me to be able to run to a few junkyards lol. I was looking for a rear passenger headrest, driver side window regulator, and a amp. I attempted to salvage yards by my house, but they weren't open. I ended up at LKQ on Colonial where they had 3 04-06 TLs.
I scored the rear headrest from the first one. I grabbed the front driver and passenger window regulators, and the Amp. The 3rd TL, I pulled the Amp as well. It had the Navi radio intact and it took everything in me to leave it lol. Bonus, I picked up a plastic engine cover for my 2005 Mazda3 and some OEM floor mats.
The electrical parts have a 3 month warranty, which I was surprised and pleased.
TL parts back home
First amp was a dud. The second one was a score! The TL radio is back in business. I rerurned the broken amp for a refund.
NAPA failed window regulator after 3 months. I attempted to return and only got store credit. The LKQ regulator is in and functioning like a champ.
TIP: Do NOT install the window regulator with it all the way up. I fought for an hour and realized it's not going in. I felt like I was going to break glass trying to force it.
I ended up using painters tape to hold the glass up, then install the regulator motor, connect the power windo control lines to the door panel to lower the white piece halfway. After doing this, the metal piece was able to finally line up with the door properly.
I scored the rear headrest from the first one. I grabbed the front driver and passenger window regulators, and the Amp. The 3rd TL, I pulled the Amp as well. It had the Navi radio intact and it took everything in me to leave it lol. Bonus, I picked up a plastic engine cover for my 2005 Mazda3 and some OEM floor mats.
The electrical parts have a 3 month warranty, which I was surprised and pleased.
TL parts back home
First amp was a dud. The second one was a score! The TL radio is back in business. I rerurned the broken amp for a refund.
NAPA failed window regulator after 3 months. I attempted to return and only got store credit. The LKQ regulator is in and functioning like a champ.
TIP: Do NOT install the window regulator with it all the way up. I fought for an hour and realized it's not going in. I felt like I was going to break glass trying to force it.
I ended up using painters tape to hold the glass up, then install the regulator motor, connect the power windo control lines to the door panel to lower the white piece halfway. After doing this, the metal piece was able to finally line up with the door properly.