UR Crank Pulley info 3G Garage #A-098
#121
Good bye 03 TL-S
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The tool I bought I got from PepBoys. It was called a Honda/Acura Harmonic Balancer Pulley Tool. Yeah, the company that made it must be pretty dumb cause of how they labeled it. Hondas are internally balanced, and have been for some time.
You can go get a belt at you auto parts store, the pulley should have came with paperwork that says the belt size you'll want. I couldn't find the belt size exactly but I got one .5 mm smaller and it works fine.
You can go get a belt at you auto parts store, the pulley should have came with paperwork that says the belt size you'll want. I couldn't find the belt size exactly but I got one .5 mm smaller and it works fine.
#122
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Hey i have a 2005 Aspec AT with a UR Pulley. I ordered my Comptech Supercharger 2weeks ago and i was wondering if i have to go back to my stock pulley??? Or if i could use UR pulley with another belt??? If so does any1 know what brand/size???
Thanks
Thanks
#123
mrrocan red '07 tl-s
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hey i am seriously thinking about getting these. i know they are a bitch removing, but does it give you any kick? can you tell its there? and i do not plan on getting a super charger so which model should i be getting??thks for the input guys
#124
A-spec steering wheel ftw
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Originally Posted by rockfordace
hey i am seriously thinking about getting these. i know they are a bitch removing, but does it give you any kick? can you tell its there? and i do not plan on getting a super charger so which model should i be getting??thks for the input guys
you can find all these answers in the last few pages. dont be lazy, information is priceless.
#125
Originally Posted by rockfordace
hey i am seriously thinking about getting these. i know they are a bitch removing, but does it give you any kick? can you tell its there? and i do not plan on getting a super charger so which model should i be getting??thks for the input guys
#127
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If you are going to be running a supercharger you want a stock sized pulley. UR sells a lighter stock sized pulley, if that is what you got then you should be fine supercharging it. If you got the smaller underdrive one, you're supercharger will be running at lower boost, which would make your power increase more like 40whp vs something like 70.
If you're not going supercharger and you plan to go n/a, nitrous, or turbo, the underdrive pulley is for you, cause you'll gain a little more power to the wheels through it. Underdriving only accounts for 15% of the gains, as UR claims, so the difference in performance between the two is barely noticeable. You will however notice the difference between the stock pulley and a UR. It's one of the more noticeable bolt-ons you can do.
If you're not going supercharger and you plan to go n/a, nitrous, or turbo, the underdrive pulley is for you, cause you'll gain a little more power to the wheels through it. Underdriving only accounts for 15% of the gains, as UR claims, so the difference in performance between the two is barely noticeable. You will however notice the difference between the stock pulley and a UR. It's one of the more noticeable bolt-ons you can do.
#128
mrrocan red '07 tl-s
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hey JCL not being lazy just wondering from peeps who have actually done this 1st hand. ok? dont wanna put a mod in thats not gonna make any diffrence ya know? sorry it bothered you. thanks for the positive feed back by the way guys. appreciate the 1st hand knowlegde
#129
Racer
Originally Posted by cbronze07
Kennedy,
I clean the threads on the bolt and crank, then use blue Loctite on them for extra insurance. In the past, I have removed the flywheel cover and had an assistant jam the flywheel with a pry bar, but I feel that it is really not necessary. Lately, I have just used the loctite, and tightened the bolt with a 1/2" impact wrench.
I have gone through two timing belts and one hundred twenty thousand miles on my mother's Accord with no ill effects with the above method.
Lee
I clean the threads on the bolt and crank, then use blue Loctite on them for extra insurance. In the past, I have removed the flywheel cover and had an assistant jam the flywheel with a pry bar, but I feel that it is really not necessary. Lately, I have just used the loctite, and tightened the bolt with a 1/2" impact wrench.
I have gone through two timing belts and one hundred twenty thousand miles on my mother's Accord with no ill effects with the above method.
Lee
But i thought according to Honda manuals you are suppose to use a bit of motor oil to prevent it from seizing?
#130
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All I did was clean the bolt up a bit, then I put the loctite blue on the bolt and tightened to ~180ft-lbs ...I can't tell for sure if it was exact, because my wrench only measured to 150, but I turned the bolt another 1/4-1/3 of a turn after the 150, so I'm pretty sure it's at least 170ft-lbs.
#132
Instructor
Originally Posted by anx1300c
Now lightweight crank pulleys make VTEC "scream" louder? I think you just probably had some ear wax fall out when you were installing it.
#133
Instructor
Originally Posted by stillhere153
don't know how anyone ever installed a ur pulley without the powerbuilt hextool
4 hours of failed attemps with impact wrench, impact gun, big ol' bars and alot of muscle... WASTED
2 mins online parts america... powerbuilt hextool
install time 20mins
4 hours of failed attemps with impact wrench, impact gun, big ol' bars and alot of muscle... WASTED
2 mins online parts america... powerbuilt hextool
install time 20mins
#137
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Just search google or give UR a call to see what size belt you need, I don't know off hand, but any auto place will carry the size you need. If it's a half inch to small or so don't worry about it, that's what the tensioner is for.
#139
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by stillhere153
go to partsamerica.com... enter your zip code and on the search type - 648796
#140
Racer
snap on wants an arm and a leg for everything thats on the truck. hahahaha.
but i did get the UR ultra Sc and it is a very well made part, still havent put it on. but i will as soon as i get time to do it.
but i did get the UR ultra Sc and it is a very well made part, still havent put it on. but i will as soon as i get time to do it.
#141
Instructor
Nobody said anything about tightning the belt or any other install details. So all you need it ot remove 1 bolt and put 1 bolt on? Sounds too easy. Any DIY vids?
#143
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Originally Posted by MinDawg
Nobody said anything about tightning the belt or any other install details. So all you need it ot remove 1 bolt and put 1 bolt on? Sounds too easy. Any DIY vids?
and the hard part of the chore is busting that bolt loose, as this threads all about.
#144
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I'm wanting to get one of these and I'll probably have someone else install it. I went to Modified by KC, a custom shop in KC and was talking to them about doing some muffler system work for me. While I was there I'd thought I'd ask how much they would charge to put on the UR crank pulley.
Once I mentioned it was the crank pulley, the guy just went off and refused to install it. He said that the UR Pulley does not have the rubber band on it to prevent vibration, etc. I know this topic has been discussed and people have been driving with this pulley with no problems. Has anyone else ran into this type of negative response at a custom car shop?
Once I mentioned it was the crank pulley, the guy just went off and refused to install it. He said that the UR Pulley does not have the rubber band on it to prevent vibration, etc. I know this topic has been discussed and people have been driving with this pulley with no problems. Has anyone else ran into this type of negative response at a custom car shop?
#145
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
I'm wanting to get one of these and I'll probably have someone else install it. I went to Modified by KC, a custom shop in KC and was talking to them about doing some muffler system work for me. While I was there I'd thought I'd ask how much they would charge to put on the UR crank pulley.
Once I mentioned it was the crank pulley, the guy just went off and refused to install it. He said that the UR Pulley does not have the rubber band on it to prevent vibration, etc. I know this topic has been discussed and people have been driving with this pulley with no problems. Has anyone else ran into this type of negative response at a custom car shop?
Once I mentioned it was the crank pulley, the guy just went off and refused to install it. He said that the UR Pulley does not have the rubber band on it to prevent vibration, etc. I know this topic has been discussed and people have been driving with this pulley with no problems. Has anyone else ran into this type of negative response at a custom car shop?
#146
Safety Car
I advise to look for service else where. Won't be productive to argue with such close minded people (aka, your mechanic).
BTW, a reasonable install fee is in the range of $60-$100 (max). The pulley install is SUPER easy for a mechanic that does Honda service on a regular basis.
I paid $60 for my install and the mechanic took just 15 minutes. This was at an indepenant shop that specializes in Hondas only.
BTW, a reasonable install fee is in the range of $60-$100 (max). The pulley install is SUPER easy for a mechanic that does Honda service on a regular basis.
I paid $60 for my install and the mechanic took just 15 minutes. This was at an indepenant shop that specializes in Hondas only.
#147
Starcraft II addict
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Thanks, I'm going to. I may still have them do the muffler work if I can't find another place, but will not be using them for the pulley install.
My dealership said they will do it for $99. They said that they have to charge an hour min otherwise they would have done it for less as the know it won't take an hour to do.
My dealership said they will do it for $99. They said that they have to charge an hour min otherwise they would have done it for less as the know it won't take an hour to do.
#148
Man of God.....
Good move Buda! You'll be a glad you did! I
guarantee it......
Ya I heard all the talk about how hard this was to do. Even bought the hex tool. (need one? ) Well when I went to put it in. One hit of the air wrench. Blamo!! It was off.. Never used the hex tool. Go and ask your dealer to work "on the clock" if his guy takes more that 30min. I would be suprized..
guarantee it......
Ya I heard all the talk about how hard this was to do. Even bought the hex tool. (need one? ) Well when I went to put it in. One hit of the air wrench. Blamo!! It was off.. Never used the hex tool. Go and ask your dealer to work "on the clock" if his guy takes more that 30min. I would be suprized..
#149
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To you guys wondering: You *can* DIY this mod. Did mine with the help of mmade22 ( ) yesterday.
Go back to Page 1 of this thread and read Kennedy's post on the various methods of Pulley Removal. Start with #2, but be prepared to use #3 and #4.
The day before the mod I hit the Pulley Bolt with a good shot of Liquid Wrench. Whether it did any good or not - .
Tried the Air Gun. Fail.
Ended up doing it just like the You Tube Video and Kennedy's number 3. Used the following tools:
- Craftsman 1/2" drive, 20" Extension (Supported by a Jack Stand)
- Honda Pulley Tool (for sale, used once, PM me)
- 2 @ 15" x 1/2" Drive Craftsman "breaker bars" (one for the 19mm, one for the Pulley tool)
- 19mm High Strength (impact) Socket
- 48" x 1/2" Black Iron Pipe from Lowes (~$7) (Just buy it, you'll thank me later)
One good pull on that 48" iron pipe and mmade22 made short work of that bolt. Easy-Peasy.
It was (WAY!!) harder getting the wheel off. .....
For the record: Car is ~17 months old with ~20500 miles. Garage kept and has never seen salt/snow. That, I am sure, made the job easier.
Before:
After:
]
Got it torqued down to ~130 ft/lbs or 47 ft/lbs PLUS ~20* add'l rotation. Best we could do. 300 mile run through the country today, no problems.
.
.
.
Go back to Page 1 of this thread and read Kennedy's post on the various methods of Pulley Removal. Start with #2, but be prepared to use #3 and #4.
The day before the mod I hit the Pulley Bolt with a good shot of Liquid Wrench. Whether it did any good or not - .
Tried the Air Gun. Fail.
Ended up doing it just like the You Tube Video and Kennedy's number 3. Used the following tools:
- Craftsman 1/2" drive, 20" Extension (Supported by a Jack Stand)
- Honda Pulley Tool (for sale, used once, PM me)
- 2 @ 15" x 1/2" Drive Craftsman "breaker bars" (one for the 19mm, one for the Pulley tool)
- 19mm High Strength (impact) Socket
- 48" x 1/2" Black Iron Pipe from Lowes (~$7) (Just buy it, you'll thank me later)
One good pull on that 48" iron pipe and mmade22 made short work of that bolt. Easy-Peasy.
It was (WAY!!) harder getting the wheel off. .....
For the record: Car is ~17 months old with ~20500 miles. Garage kept and has never seen salt/snow. That, I am sure, made the job easier.
Before:
After:
]
Got it torqued down to ~130 ft/lbs or 47 ft/lbs PLUS ~20* add'l rotation. Best we could do. 300 mile run through the country today, no problems.
.
.
.
#150
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
To you guys wondering: You *can* DIY this mod. Did mine with the help of mmade22 ( ) yesterday.
Go back to Page 1 of this thread and read Kennedy's post on the various methods of Pulley Removal. Start with #2, but be prepared to use #3 and #4.
The day before the mod I hit the Pulley Bolt with a good shot of Liquid Wrench. Whether it did any good or not - .
Tried the Air Gun. Fail.
Ended up doing it just like the You Tube Video and Kennedy's number 3. Used the following tools:
- Craftsman 1/2" drive, 20" Extension (Supported by a Jack Stand)
- Honda Pulley Tool (for sale, used once, PM me)
- 2 @ 15" x 1/2" Drive Craftsman "breaker bars" (one for the 19mm, one for the Pulley tool)
- 19mm High Strength (impact) Socket
- 48" x 1/2" Black Iron Pipe from Lowes (~$7) (Just buy it, you'll thank me later)
One good pull on that 48" iron pipe and mmade22 made short work of that bolt. Easy-Peasy.
It was (WAY!!) harder getting the wheel off. .....
For the record: Car is ~17 months old with ~20500 miles. Garage kept and has never seen salt/snow. That, I am sure, made the job easier.
Before:
After:
]
Got it torqued down to ~130 ft/lbs or 47 ft/lbs PLUS ~20* add'l rotation. Best we could do. 300 mile run through the country today, no problems.
.
.
.
Go back to Page 1 of this thread and read Kennedy's post on the various methods of Pulley Removal. Start with #2, but be prepared to use #3 and #4.
The day before the mod I hit the Pulley Bolt with a good shot of Liquid Wrench. Whether it did any good or not - .
Tried the Air Gun. Fail.
Ended up doing it just like the You Tube Video and Kennedy's number 3. Used the following tools:
- Craftsman 1/2" drive, 20" Extension (Supported by a Jack Stand)
- Honda Pulley Tool (for sale, used once, PM me)
- 2 @ 15" x 1/2" Drive Craftsman "breaker bars" (one for the 19mm, one for the Pulley tool)
- 19mm High Strength (impact) Socket
- 48" x 1/2" Black Iron Pipe from Lowes (~$7) (Just buy it, you'll thank me later)
One good pull on that 48" iron pipe and mmade22 made short work of that bolt. Easy-Peasy.
It was (WAY!!) harder getting the wheel off. .....
For the record: Car is ~17 months old with ~20500 miles. Garage kept and has never seen salt/snow. That, I am sure, made the job easier.
Before:
After:
]
Got it torqued down to ~130 ft/lbs or 47 ft/lbs PLUS ~20* add'l rotation. Best we could do. 300 mile run through the country today, no problems.
.
.
.
#151
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Yeah Jim that was a fun mod to do. My gun said no way in hell am I getting this nut off. I told Bearcat to stand clear of the monster pipe as I didn't want to slip and knock his ass out! All in all, it went very smooth.
I love helping Bearcat out. He is like a good student who does all his homework and has all the answers when in class. It was fun taking the Type-S out for a before and after spin. Great mod and you do feel a difference. Great work Jim!!
I love helping Bearcat out. He is like a good student who does all his homework and has all the answers when in class. It was fun taking the Type-S out for a before and after spin. Great mod and you do feel a difference. Great work Jim!!
#153
A-spec steering wheel ftw
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in Chi-town there's no one else? i feel like Acura tech will overcharge; i got mine done for $50
#155
A-spec steering wheel ftw
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well mazel tov!! make sure he has the tool; and no, do not sell your A-specs unless you get hte 18x8 one with the extra lip to protect the rims.
my 18x8.5's have such bad curb rash it's sad, then there was this one time my dad thought he could take the TL through automated carwash instead of detail....
my 18x8.5's have such bad curb rash it's sad, then there was this one time my dad thought he could take the TL through automated carwash instead of detail....
#159
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Talk to your dealer. The oem pulley is heavy and is designed to take any impact the lower half my have. I heard their are no issues with engine like an inline 6 but with a V6 block, the aftermarket pulley might not be a good idea. I was told this from a local shop so i stayed away from this mod....
If you really want to know if the warranty is void, go ask your dealer!
If you really want to know if the warranty is void, go ask your dealer!
#160
Safety Car
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Talk to your dealer. The oem pulley is heavy and is designed to take any impact the lower half my have. I heard their are no issues with engine like an inline 6 but with a V6 block, the aftermarket pulley might not be a good idea. I was told this from a local shop so i stayed away from this mod....
If you really want to know if the warranty is void, go ask your dealer!
If you really want to know if the warranty is void, go ask your dealer!
^^^Any other opinions about this^^^
I am about to call a place to have my UR OEM size pulley in stalled.