UR Crank Pulley info 3G Garage #A-098
05-22-2008, 12:20 AM
#81
Originally Posted by MAC TL
Ok so i've read through most of this thread and tried to get whats goin on here. Im trying to learn myself a lil something so bear with me. Ok soo... if i get this "pulley" from UR which is the crank shaft pulley, it is a mod that will make my tl faster? .... sounds great.
Now, as i kept reading..... i noticed something that kinda threw me off. Accessories.... and how replacing this pulley may effect my accessories.... or something like this...
Now... i have a stereo system in my car that is way above 1000w.
Can someone please clarify if doing this mod will effect my stereo system.... even though i know that there is a seperate pulley for "accessories".. i just wanted to make sure and clarify
Second request.. please specify which pulley i need and what else ill need if im going to do this mod...
Please dont bang me for this, just tryin to get the right and full info....
Thanks
Now, as i kept reading..... i noticed something that kinda threw me off. Accessories.... and how replacing this pulley may effect my accessories.... or something like this...
Now... i have a stereo system in my car that is way above 1000w.
Can someone please clarify if doing this mod will effect my stereo system.... even though i know that there is a seperate pulley for "accessories".. i just wanted to make sure and clarify
Second request.. please specify which pulley i need and what else ill need if im going to do this mod...
Please dont bang me for this, just tryin to get the right and full info....
Thanks
05-22-2008, 08:37 PM
#82
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I will admit I didn't read this entire thread but has anyone installed the underdrive pulley and then had the car dyno'd or ran at the track to get real world results?
05-24-2008, 03:36 AM
#83
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I just did a UR underdrive pulley install today on my 2g and getting that nut to turn was a bish even with the tool. I managed to pick up the tool at Pep Boys for like $35, and I'll be returning it saying it didn't fit lol.
I'll post pics up tomorrow or so.
One thing that pissed me off was that I found some nasty half ass job on the original pulley and crank key. When I bought the car used the pulley was wobbling like a mad man, took it back, the place fixed it and I thought I was good cause the noise went away too. When I took it apart it looked as if someone had made another notch in the stock pulley and in the end of the crank and put another piece of metal that looked like the key in there so it's basically 2 keys????
Anyway, the ghetto rigged key was split in half and fell out when I pulled the pulley off. I'm pretty pissed, I'm gonna go show the place where I bought the car pictures of it when I go back to Tucson next. When I post the pics you'll see how disgusting it is.
Anyway, to get the pulley off I ended up putting the hex tool on it with a big 1/2" breaker bar that laid over the axle and control arm so it wouldn't go anywhere. I took another 1/2" breaker back and put the 19mm socket on it and pried and pried and pulled and pushed for a good 20 min with a spray of PB blaster every couple minutes. I ended up trying the jack method, but it just jacked up the engine with it...but I think that loosened up the bolt, cause I went back to prying and it eventually came loose.
I had to take the 2 bolts off the motor mount to get the power steering belt off and the new one on, then bolted them back up and began to install the new pulley. I cleaned the bolt up and put some blue thread locker on it. I gt under the car and took the flex plate cover off and jammed a 3/8 thick screw driver in there, went back to the pulley and torqued it to the maximum 150ft-lbs that my wrench could measure, then I continued to turn the bolt about a 1/4 turn after that...I literally couldn't turn it anymore or I may have given myself a hernia lol.
Installed the belts, covered them in belt dressing and started the bish and the pulley on has a very very very slight wobble now... barely noticeable. If I give the car just a little gas there's no wobble what so ever. I'm not too worried about it because I've seen pulleys wobble more straight off the factory than this one does now. I think what helped was removing the ghetto second key, considering the UR pulley wouldn't fit it anyway, and the fact that the new pulley is smaller and lighter so it would naturally wobble less because the weight is closer to the center and there's much less weight.
you 3g guys have it nnice that you have one belt, when I looked at the car to see what I was getting into and I saw I had to unhook the engine mount and loosen the power steering pump just to get off that one belt I was like great, no longer a half hr job. It ended up taking me a total of 2 1/2 hours because I was trying to figure out what to do with the ghetto 2nd key...and it took a while to break the bolt loose, but after that it flew through quick. I'd say if I had to do it again on another 2g I'd probably take me about 40 min or so.
yeah that's right I just typed an essay...it's late and I'm bored.
I'll post pics up tomorrow or so.
One thing that pissed me off was that I found some nasty half ass job on the original pulley and crank key. When I bought the car used the pulley was wobbling like a mad man, took it back, the place fixed it and I thought I was good cause the noise went away too. When I took it apart it looked as if someone had made another notch in the stock pulley and in the end of the crank and put another piece of metal that looked like the key in there so it's basically 2 keys????
Anyway, the ghetto rigged key was split in half and fell out when I pulled the pulley off. I'm pretty pissed, I'm gonna go show the place where I bought the car pictures of it when I go back to Tucson next. When I post the pics you'll see how disgusting it is.
Anyway, to get the pulley off I ended up putting the hex tool on it with a big 1/2" breaker bar that laid over the axle and control arm so it wouldn't go anywhere. I took another 1/2" breaker back and put the 19mm socket on it and pried and pried and pulled and pushed for a good 20 min with a spray of PB blaster every couple minutes. I ended up trying the jack method, but it just jacked up the engine with it...but I think that loosened up the bolt, cause I went back to prying and it eventually came loose.
I had to take the 2 bolts off the motor mount to get the power steering belt off and the new one on, then bolted them back up and began to install the new pulley. I cleaned the bolt up and put some blue thread locker on it. I gt under the car and took the flex plate cover off and jammed a 3/8 thick screw driver in there, went back to the pulley and torqued it to the maximum 150ft-lbs that my wrench could measure, then I continued to turn the bolt about a 1/4 turn after that...I literally couldn't turn it anymore or I may have given myself a hernia lol.
Installed the belts, covered them in belt dressing and started the bish and the pulley on has a very very very slight wobble now... barely noticeable. If I give the car just a little gas there's no wobble what so ever. I'm not too worried about it because I've seen pulleys wobble more straight off the factory than this one does now. I think what helped was removing the ghetto second key, considering the UR pulley wouldn't fit it anyway, and the fact that the new pulley is smaller and lighter so it would naturally wobble less because the weight is closer to the center and there's much less weight.
you 3g guys have it nnice that you have one belt, when I looked at the car to see what I was getting into and I saw I had to unhook the engine mount and loosen the power steering pump just to get off that one belt I was like great, no longer a half hr job. It ended up taking me a total of 2 1/2 hours because I was trying to figure out what to do with the ghetto 2nd key...and it took a while to break the bolt loose, but after that it flew through quick. I'd say if I had to do it again on another 2g I'd probably take me about 40 min or so.
yeah that's right I just typed an essay...it's late and I'm bored.
05-24-2008, 03:46 AM
#84
Safety Car
hm...haha having not read your ENTIRE thread...hows the drive? i'm considering getting one off excelerate, but i'm not quite sure if it'll be worthwhile...
thanks,
eric
HAVE FUN lol
thanks,
eric
HAVE FUN lol
05-24-2008, 11:58 AM
#85
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It's definitely worth it. It's something that you can actually feel, unlike an intake or tb spacer, and for roughly the same price you can't go wrong. It even makes the engine scream just a little bit louder at vtec.
05-24-2008, 01:46 PM
#87
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No, they increase the engine noise, but the only mods on the tl are an intake filter and the pulley, you wouldn't notice a sound increase if you have any exhaust/headers on it and a full intake.
05-24-2008, 09:09 PM
#88
Originally Posted by stillhere153
don't know how anyone ever installed a ur pulley without the powerbuilt hextool
4 hours of failed attemps with impact wrench, impact gun, big ol' bars and alot of muscle... WASTED
2 mins online parts america... powerbuilt hextool
install time 20mins
4 hours of failed attemps with impact wrench, impact gun, big ol' bars and alot of muscle... WASTED
2 mins online parts america... powerbuilt hextool
install time 20mins
One bonehead thing I discovered while fighting to put the damn belt on is that the tank that's in your way slides off it's mount so it's not in the way. Took me a while to see that.
I'm not too crazy about the stomp on the brake method (6MT) to tighten the bolt. I was able to get at least 210 ft lbs (max on my torque wrench), but with all the flexing of the 1/2" extension and the motor turning a little, it took a lot of effort.
Haven't tried it out yet since I am parked in, so I'll give it a spin tomorrow.
05-25-2008, 01:07 AM
#89
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
the tank that's in your way slides off it's mount so it's not in the way.
05-26-2008, 08:05 AM
#91
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you can't... if you try the engine start method you will notice that it simply shifts the motor over and the stock mounts are so soft that the motor just moves up... nothing doing.... not worth the risk in damaging anything..... just get the 20 dollar tool
05-27-2008, 08:07 AM
#95
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
Originally Posted by stillhere153
well to tighten you put a bar through the small holes and hold it under the subframe
05-27-2008, 12:22 PM
#97
Originally Posted by SRT-11
I was thinking that, but isn't the pulley soft aluminum? couldn't that throw it out of balance?
Al, the motor is internally balanced, the pulley is precision machined aluminum... If you tweak it, you could cause problems.
Use the "two man, 6 th gear standing on the brake method". You won't get 181 ft lbs, but you'll get more than enought to hold it.
I just removed my underdrive pulley I installed with that method after 12,000 miles... No problem what so ever.
05-27-2008, 01:12 PM
#98
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You DO NOT want to shove something into the PULLEY to hold it still....PLEASE don't do that. the pulley can and will bend.
I've seen someone bend a UR pulley on another car this way and it sucks when you'd have to wait for another one to get shipped in before you can drive the car.
The best way to put it back on in an AT is to take off the flywheel cover(go under your engine and find the starter and see where it actually meets with the engine/tranny and the flywheel cover is going to be in that same plain just at the bottom of the engine, you'll see two bolts holding it in.) Nowgo to autozone and buy a 3/8" thick screw driver and shove it straight into it on the front side of the opening, go over to the pulley and you'll be able to tighten it with your torque wrench. You may want to torque it more like some people do, but I wouldn't torque much beyond 180ft-lbs because you are working with a soft aluminum pulley.
If yo need to have someone hold that screw driver while you tighten. I managed to do it by myself because jammed that shit in there nice and tight and the handle sat against the exhaust so it didn't move at all.
I've seen someone bend a UR pulley on another car this way and it sucks when you'd have to wait for another one to get shipped in before you can drive the car.
The best way to put it back on in an AT is to take off the flywheel cover(go under your engine and find the starter and see where it actually meets with the engine/tranny and the flywheel cover is going to be in that same plain just at the bottom of the engine, you'll see two bolts holding it in.) Nowgo to autozone and buy a 3/8" thick screw driver and shove it straight into it on the front side of the opening, go over to the pulley and you'll be able to tighten it with your torque wrench. You may want to torque it more like some people do, but I wouldn't torque much beyond 180ft-lbs because you are working with a soft aluminum pulley.
If yo need to have someone hold that screw driver while you tighten. I managed to do it by myself because jammed that shit in there nice and tight and the handle sat against the exhaust so it didn't move at all.
05-27-2008, 07:35 PM
#99
If 181 ft lbs is the spec, then I am pretty close. I would NEVER consider putting a bar through the hole to hold it. That's just crazy.
I got to finally drive it around today. I found the power to be much smoother and the throttle response is much more precise. I immediately noticed that the passenger isn't rocking back and forth as much even when I get on it.
I'm happy with the results!
I got to finally drive it around today. I found the power to be much smoother and the throttle response is much more precise. I immediately noticed that the passenger isn't rocking back and forth as much even when I get on it.
I'm happy with the results!
05-28-2008, 08:26 AM
#100
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
Originally Posted by Ken240sx
You DO NOT want to shove something into the PULLEY to hold it still....PLEASE don't do that. the pulley can and will bend.
I've seen someone bend a UR pulley on another car this way and it sucks when you'd have to wait for another one to get shipped in before you can drive the car.
The best way to put it back on in an AT is to take off the flywheel cover(go under your engine and find the starter and see where it actually meets with the engine/tranny and the flywheel cover is going to be in that same plain just at the bottom of the engine, you'll see two bolts holding it in.) Nowgo to autozone and buy a 3/8" thick screw driver and shove it straight into it on the front side of the opening, go over to the pulley and you'll be able to tighten it with your torque wrench. You may want to torque it more like some people do, but I wouldn't torque much beyond 180ft-lbs because you are working with a soft aluminum pulley.
If yo need to have someone hold that screw driver while you tighten. I managed to do it by myself because jammed that shit in there nice and tight and the handle sat against the exhaust so it didn't move at all.
I've seen someone bend a UR pulley on another car this way and it sucks when you'd have to wait for another one to get shipped in before you can drive the car.
The best way to put it back on in an AT is to take off the flywheel cover(go under your engine and find the starter and see where it actually meets with the engine/tranny and the flywheel cover is going to be in that same plain just at the bottom of the engine, you'll see two bolts holding it in.) Nowgo to autozone and buy a 3/8" thick screw driver and shove it straight into it on the front side of the opening, go over to the pulley and you'll be able to tighten it with your torque wrench. You may want to torque it more like some people do, but I wouldn't torque much beyond 180ft-lbs because you are working with a soft aluminum pulley.
If yo need to have someone hold that screw driver while you tighten. I managed to do it by myself because jammed that shit in there nice and tight and the handle sat against the exhaust so it didn't move at all.
05-29-2008, 12:49 AM
#101
The reason UR didn't build that into their pulley is b/c the pulley likely would be damaged with that amount of pressure. All you have to do is take off the service port cover and stick a screwdriver in there on the flex plate or flywheel and hold it in place.
05-29-2008, 07:24 AM
#102
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
Originally Posted by Excelerate
The reason UR didn't build that into their pulley is b/c the pulley likely would be damaged with that amount of pressure. All you have to do is take off the service port cover and stick a screwdriver in there on the flex plate or flywheel and hold it in place.
Awesome! Will do! Can someone please please pretty please post a pic though?
Thanks!
06-02-2008, 06:28 PM
#103
Instructor
whats up
Originally Posted by stillhere153
if you have the hex tool... it is that easy... if you don't, lmfao good luck
you need a small breaker bar so that it can hold the tool... then you use a big breaker bar... I tried using an extension and it snapped in half... so I used a bigger breaker bar and just muscled it.... popped it right off
you need a small breaker bar so that it can hold the tool... then you use a big breaker bar... I tried using an extension and it snapped in half... so I used a bigger breaker bar and just muscled it.... popped it right off
is it possible to get a link to where u bought or i can buy that tool? also i just got the underdrive crank pulley and they didnt send me a belt for it, do i need to buy that seperate or does the stock one fit?
06-03-2008, 12:08 AM
#104
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who'd you get the pulley from?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=648796
if the link doesn't work just go to partsamerica.com and type in 648796 on the search
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=648796
if the link doesn't work just go to partsamerica.com and type in 648796 on the search
06-10-2008, 11:26 PM
#107
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I just did my pulley and took a closer look at the heavy stock one. I thought the pulley was all iron, but why is there rubber on it? Doesn't that make the stock pulley a harmonic balancer?
As for my impressions, it made the car rev smoother and doesn't feel as jerky in gear and during gear shifts. My butt dyno didn't notice the car getting faster, but it seems to stay in gear for less time, so it's faster.
As for my impressions, it made the car rev smoother and doesn't feel as jerky in gear and during gear shifts. My butt dyno didn't notice the car getting faster, but it seems to stay in gear for less time, so it's faster.
06-14-2008, 07:26 PM
#111
Originally Posted by jackasswhy
does the bolt open to the left or right because i tried every friggin method and it did not come out...
I used the video on youtube as a guide to use a jack stand, two breaker bars and a long 1/2" extension.
I set the car so the bar/pulley wrench would hit the floor and lock in place.
Then I put a pipe on the other bar and it all flexed about 90 degrees and didn't pop.
So I tried again going a little further and held it there. After about 20-30sec, it popped.
06-15-2008, 02:51 AM
#113
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06-15-2008, 02:52 AM
#114
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06-15-2008, 06:23 PM
#115
Originally Posted by JsL138
I just did my pulley and took a closer look at the heavy stock one. I thought the pulley was all iron, but why is there rubber on it? Doesn't that make the stock pulley a harmonic balancer?
As for my impressions, it made the car rev smoother and doesn't feel as jerky in gear and during gear shifts. My butt dyno didn't notice the car getting faster, but it seems to stay in gear for less time, so it's faster.
As for my impressions, it made the car rev smoother and doesn't feel as jerky in gear and during gear shifts. My butt dyno didn't notice the car getting faster, but it seems to stay in gear for less time, so it's faster.
06-15-2008, 09:54 PM
#117
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OMFING!! I cannot believe what I have seen on this thread. By no means should you use engine power to remove the crank bolt. its a wonder someone hasnt broken the bar and sent the pieces thru the fender. Yes that can happen. Yes it may happen to you. While I know I am spoiled since I work on cars everyday and have a vast array of tools, I would strongly suggest you have someone with the right shit do this job for you. I would (at the dealer) charge you one hour labor to install this pulley. Thats 114 bucks. Sure beats paying for a fender, having the car fall off the jack, hurt yourself, or any of the other things that could happen. This isnt like some interior light mod or some silly thing where the worst that happens is you blow a fuse.. I am in shock!!
06-17-2008, 12:33 AM
#118
Instructor
whats up
Originally Posted by stillhere153
if you have the hex tool... it is that easy... if you don't, lmfao good luck
you need a small breaker bar so that it can hold the tool... then you use a big breaker bar... I tried using an extension and it snapped in half... so I used a bigger breaker bar and just muscled it.... popped it right off
you need a small breaker bar so that it can hold the tool... then you use a big breaker bar... I tried using an extension and it snapped in half... so I used a bigger breaker bar and just muscled it.... popped it right off
is it possible to get the link to where i can buy that hex tool?
also a link to where i can buy a belt to fit the underdrive pulley thanks. i got that greddy exhaust its awesome glad i listened to you
06-17-2008, 12:43 AM
#119
Instructor
Originally Posted by Ken240sx
I just did a UR underdrive pulley install today on my 2g and getting that nut to turn was a bish even with the tool. I managed to pick up the tool at Pep Boys for like $35, and I'll be returning it saying it didn't fit lol.
I'll post pics up tomorrow or so.
One thing that pissed me off was that I found some nasty half ass job on the original pulley and crank key. When I bought the car used the pulley was wobbling like a mad man, took it back, the place fixed it and I thought I was good cause the noise went away too. When I took it apart it looked as if someone had made another notch in the stock pulley and in the end of the crank and put another piece of metal that looked like the key in there so it's basically 2 keys????
Anyway, the ghetto rigged key was split in half and fell out when I pulled the pulley off. I'm pretty pissed, I'm gonna go show the place where I bought the car pictures of it when I go back to Tucson next. When I post the pics you'll see how disgusting it is.
Anyway, to get the pulley off I ended up putting the hex tool on it with a big 1/2" breaker bar that laid over the axle and control arm so it wouldn't go anywhere. I took another 1/2" breaker back and put the 19mm socket on it and pried and pried and pulled and pushed for a good 20 min with a spray of PB blaster every couple minutes. I ended up trying the jack method, but it just jacked up the engine with it...but I think that loosened up the bolt, cause I went back to prying and it eventually came loose.
I had to take the 2 bolts off the motor mount to get the power steering belt off and the new one on, then bolted them back up and began to install the new pulley. I cleaned the bolt up and put some blue thread locker on it. I gt under the car and took the flex plate cover off and jammed a 3/8 thick screw driver in there, went back to the pulley and torqued it to the maximum 150ft-lbs that my wrench could measure, then I continued to turn the bolt about a 1/4 turn after that...I literally couldn't turn it anymore or I may have given myself a hernia lol.
Installed the belts, covered them in belt dressing and started the bish and the pulley on has a very very very slight wobble now... barely noticeable. If I give the car just a little gas there's no wobble what so ever. I'm not too worried about it because I've seen pulleys wobble more straight off the factory than this one does now. I think what helped was removing the ghetto second key, considering the UR pulley wouldn't fit it anyway, and the fact that the new pulley is smaller and lighter so it would naturally wobble less because the weight is closer to the center and there's much less weight.
you 3g guys have it nnice that you have one belt, when I looked at the car to see what I was getting into and I saw I had to unhook the engine mount and loosen the power steering pump just to get off that one belt I was like great, no longer a half hr job. It ended up taking me a total of 2 1/2 hours because I was trying to figure out what to do with the ghetto 2nd key...and it took a while to break the bolt loose, but after that it flew through quick. I'd say if I had to do it again on another 2g I'd probably take me about 40 min or so.
yeah that's right I just typed an essay...it's late and I'm bored.
I'll post pics up tomorrow or so.
One thing that pissed me off was that I found some nasty half ass job on the original pulley and crank key. When I bought the car used the pulley was wobbling like a mad man, took it back, the place fixed it and I thought I was good cause the noise went away too. When I took it apart it looked as if someone had made another notch in the stock pulley and in the end of the crank and put another piece of metal that looked like the key in there so it's basically 2 keys????
Anyway, the ghetto rigged key was split in half and fell out when I pulled the pulley off. I'm pretty pissed, I'm gonna go show the place where I bought the car pictures of it when I go back to Tucson next. When I post the pics you'll see how disgusting it is.
Anyway, to get the pulley off I ended up putting the hex tool on it with a big 1/2" breaker bar that laid over the axle and control arm so it wouldn't go anywhere. I took another 1/2" breaker back and put the 19mm socket on it and pried and pried and pulled and pushed for a good 20 min with a spray of PB blaster every couple minutes. I ended up trying the jack method, but it just jacked up the engine with it...but I think that loosened up the bolt, cause I went back to prying and it eventually came loose.
I had to take the 2 bolts off the motor mount to get the power steering belt off and the new one on, then bolted them back up and began to install the new pulley. I cleaned the bolt up and put some blue thread locker on it. I gt under the car and took the flex plate cover off and jammed a 3/8 thick screw driver in there, went back to the pulley and torqued it to the maximum 150ft-lbs that my wrench could measure, then I continued to turn the bolt about a 1/4 turn after that...I literally couldn't turn it anymore or I may have given myself a hernia lol.
Installed the belts, covered them in belt dressing and started the bish and the pulley on has a very very very slight wobble now... barely noticeable. If I give the car just a little gas there's no wobble what so ever. I'm not too worried about it because I've seen pulleys wobble more straight off the factory than this one does now. I think what helped was removing the ghetto second key, considering the UR pulley wouldn't fit it anyway, and the fact that the new pulley is smaller and lighter so it would naturally wobble less because the weight is closer to the center and there's much less weight.
you 3g guys have it nnice that you have one belt, when I looked at the car to see what I was getting into and I saw I had to unhook the engine mount and loosen the power steering pump just to get off that one belt I was like great, no longer a half hr job. It ended up taking me a total of 2 1/2 hours because I was trying to figure out what to do with the ghetto 2nd key...and it took a while to break the bolt loose, but after that it flew through quick. I'd say if I had to do it again on another 2g I'd probably take me about 40 min or so.
yeah that's right I just typed an essay...it's late and I'm bored.
also i ordered the underdrive crank pulley from unorthodox racing and they didnt send me a belt or a bolt where can i buy these? a link or any sugestions