rooster415

yes high protein diet i understand it now after reading and watching tons of times haha. yeah. update on my car. everythings ready and assembled going to get it polished tomorrow and waxed and washed then i will be driving home with my TL again lols. then this weekend going to try to set up a date to get a dyno run before the pnp.

Hacura

I might need some help too man; I'm gonna attempt the install and see how it goes. I'm a lightweight so we might need three people lol .

Gotta read up on the UR Pulley threads since I've already pulled the trigger...been itching for the PCD/HFPC's.

I've got serious issues, my minds been modding ahead of my body.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

You have my number don't you? lol. Op is paying me to help him.

rooster415

HAHAHAHA well come down with aznboi when he does we can do it the same day ?

get the pcds !!!

rooster415

so guys i got my car back today looking like new again. except i dont plan on putting back a head unit in my car.. and i had the fucking living hell scared out of me today...

my battery was removed at the shop because it will probably drain due to use opening and leaving the door open. i put the negative back on and forgot to tighten it... and as i was on the freeway. i engaged vtec when my car pulled back i guess the battery terminal got loose and my car literally died out all lights flashing. on and off. then is started the car. abs lights came on cel came on. freaked the shit outa me until i got home and popped the hood and saw the negative wire halfway off the terminal scared shitless....

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Hey what is there good around your house?

rooster415

are we talking about food wise?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

yeah sorry. it was suppose what is there good to eat around your house?

Hacura

I know bro, I was gonna call you after the PnP install but got side tracked as the real estate market is going nuts around the bay...gotta keep them investments flowing so I can do more mods .

This is really enticing and I'm sure we could crack it out quickly but not sure if I can make the weekend schedule out there...still possible. It might be worth it for me make it out there and just live with the .

Hacura

SF has some damn good food man. That's all I think about when I go out there; I don't even think about the women anymore...lol

sshhh :gheylaugh:

rooster415

lmfao hahahahha let us know wassup though

umm to be honest i live kind of by like. daly city top of the hill aint shit over tehre. what you trying to eat ?

rooster415

umm lots a mexican restaurants. we can get pho ? you down in sj probably eat it a lot i dont know haha

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

DAmn I hope your house is not on a big ass hill bro. My clutch is starting to die. lol

Too much mexican food and pho. lol

rooster415

guys i really really need help. symptoms the last time i drove my car before someone cracked my windows it was running fine. today i was taking it home. and my car died out on me it just shut off. so what i found out later was battery terminal was loose. then an hour later i drove the car again. at idle once i rev the car the car would dip to 500 rpm then drop all the way down and die out. when im driving and coming to a stop and i step on the clutch the whole way and rpm dips all the way down and dies out. lights flashing on and off everything flashes. then i would crank the car while rolling. and it would die out the second i hold the clutch. the last thing i have done was remove my cai filter washed it in water then blew it out with an air compressor. so im pretty sure it wasnt wet even if it was its not wet enough to be doing this i hope? then i called thisaznboi adn he said maybe a ecu wire is unplugged? but they didnt touch my ecu when they cracked into my car. maybe a blown fuse? please help... so sad i jsut got my car back and i cant drive it..

Inaccurate

Let's start with doing the obvious first. Unplug the negative terminal from battery. Let it sit unplugged for 15 to 30 minutes. Reconnect terminal. Start engine and allow it to idle until warmed-up (approx 5 minutes). Do not touch gas pedal at anytime in this process.

BTW - Did you just purchase gasoline at a strange location? Just trying to elimanate the obvious stuff.

Also, do a very careful visual inspection under the hood. Look for anything that might be unplugged (wires or hoses).

rooster415

will do tomorrow . and no havent got gas yet still at half tank when i brought it to the shop. will check hood tomorrow morning before work.. hope i can drive it..

Inaccurate

I forgot to add the step of turning off the AC before starting the engine. Leave the AC off and don't touch the gas pedal until after the engine warms up.

It is preferable that you do this procedure in the morning while the engine is stone-cold.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

i doubt its the battery....when you are driving the battery is not engaged at all....its the alternator that is powering your electronics/etc....a lot of people do that to test the battery/alternator....

i would highly recommend you to go to Advance Auto Parts and get your electrical system checked out (for free)....they will tell you if your battery/alternator is going out....

it sounds to me like a short in some harness.....i dont think the alternator or the battery will trigger a cel and abs....

also you said the lights started flashing....how were they flashing if the battery was unconnected/disconnected....just food for thought....

rooster415

no clue. well i changed the battery and it isnt the case still doing the same thing. still dies out after full warmup with no accessories on. now im thinking its the alternator but what else can it be.. no wires were cut or anything when they broke into my car. unless its behind my head unit somewhere because i have not removed the head unit yet. all wires in engine bay are intact.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ baam !!!

i would remove the trim pieces in the passenger side footwell and see the connections to the ECU....see if the ECU connectors are well connected and if any wire is loose or any of that....

did the CEL and ABS come back on ? also did you get the codes pulled ? usually they solve help diagnose the issue....

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

I didn't have the exact issue but very similar... car dies in the middle and starts up again.. power issues at startup and while driving... what was occurring is that my amp wires which I had disconnected kept shorting out my stereo.. dont know why yet... something was over shorting the circuits.. since i removed all the wires I didnt have any more issue.. i have an aftermarket stereo.. it could be they could have loosened up some of the wires and that is causing feedback.. i have not delved into it as much as I should, just no time but once i unhooked all my stereo speaker wires/amp wires I do not have the issue anymore.. crappy part is I am listening to my iphone/pandora as my music in my car until I redo my audio

rooster415

i used to have an audio system ... i still have the groudn wires and power and remote wires ran to the back. but its not touching anythign and its been fine since now.

no cel and no abs back on. ecu is fine im hoping will be pulling out radio tomorrow but probelm is fixed

rooster415

guys thank you all. have gotten the problem fixed. thank you swoosh,innacurate,thisaznboi888,Turbonut . what seemed to be the problem was that the battery has been dead so long and i jump started it, it seemed to have forgotten how to idle like swoosh and innac said. so what i did. i removed the maf sensor while my car was idling stupid me i forgot the car was running . but after that i removed battery maf sensor,idle control sensor looked inside clean. let the battery stay removed for around 10 mintues. then i started the car back up. once i started i held the rpm to about 2k for 3-5 minutes. after that the car almost died and choked but stayed alive. then i restarted the car revved the car and it didnt die. rpm still a little low. but i drove the car for around 30 minutes and nothign happened so far..

on the other hand tomorrow i wont be dieting as i will be removing my egr valve and intake manifold. tbs. tb and giong to be cleaning the shit outa them. going to acura to order the gaskets for the intake manifold. going to get a crank sensor too.

thank you guys

rooster415

maybe im goign to just remove the rest of my wires tomorrow since i doubt ill be putting in more weight

rooster415

does this sound okay ? too pricey or too cheap ?

5 angle valve job an surface is $450.00 labor parts your looking around 12-15 dollars a valve. a port an Polish heads intake & exhaust $1000 an $200.00 for a gasket mach on the intake

got a quote from a local shop

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

looks about right. Are they also flow benching it?

rooster415

yuppps but i should be saving 200 bucks right since i dont need the gasket since im getting the ones from outlaw?

rooster415

and is hould be savign since you are pnping the runners and the manifold for me

kingkong_dav

dude your 21 and you have that much bread?

rooster415

umm work hard and manage money ? and no its not mommy and daddys money

callahan

Haha I get a lot too, even at work. They don't understand how I can spend that much money on my car, while they can't even pay their bills. But yet their going out every other night spending 100's at the club? While I just sit at home pulling more sit out of my car to save weight lol. Hmm I wonder how I do it.

Inaccurate

Just going from memory from six years ago (an oxymoron?), The Outlaw comes with just one gasket for the IM thermal isolator (I avoid calling it a "spacer", which is a misnomer). So in effect, Outlaw is taking responsible for causing you to now need two, instead of one, gaskets... so they give you the second one now needed. I think that their logic is for the customer to re-use the oem gasket for one side of the isolator and then use the supplied gasket for the other side of the isolator.

My suggestion (which usually is the most expense route ) is to purchase *two* new oem gaskets. Reasoning being is that the oem should never be re-used, especially in this case where the mating surfaces are entirely different than previously. Plus a second new oem gasket because I trust the oem gasket more than the one that Outlaw supplies with the kit (due to my paranoia and retentiveness) ,

rooster415

i udnerstand what you are saying. but im going to be getting a pnp and if im correct the outlaw ones will have the be cut to the same dimensions as the manifold tahts why im going to get the outlaw ones.

haha same goes for me. but the difference is i dont go out much anymore i went out so much during my highschool years that im kind of tired of it. instead i spend my time working on my car. and my girl and i made an agreement to save money so we only go out for dinner 1ce a week or 1ce every 2 weeks to save some money. haha yeah people ask my how do you do it have money to spend on your car and pay bills. i break it down... i dont have much money per paycheck. i get around 850 per 2 weeks. 400 rent 400 bills (phone and such) and the rest i can spend wherever and pay my girls bills too as she is only working atm for food and she doesnt make much. so its jsut money management lol

callahan i wish we can get a race

rooster415

today was a very positive day. spent the whole day cleaning. i drove to acura in the morning got my new gaskets. went to oreillys auto parts bought 4 bottles of brake cleaner and shop towel and coolant. came home around 2.
1. removed throttle body and throttle body spacer
2. removed plenum
3 removed intake manifold
4. removed egr
5. removed egr valve thing where the coolant goes

used the 4 cans on the plenum and the throttle body itself
had to drive all the way back to oreillys to buy more brake cleaner

used another 4 on the egr and the valve

had to drive all the way back to oreillys again to buy more brake cleaner

used 8 bottles to clean the intake manifold and runners. and i must say that those things were full of gunk. dirty as hell oily as hell smelled like gas. now everythigns all sparkling and clean

and fyi to everyone who decides to clean their intake manifold and stuff do not over tighten the bolts on the plenum. i broke a bolt today fail. i started up the car. took about 5 times until it turned over. then i opened up the coolant. poured enough coolant to reach the top . waxed my car waiting for the thermostat to open up. then once it did i let it idle for another 5 minutes. everythign feels back to normal now.! only took roughly 4 1/2 to 5 hours.

rooster415

i know i used probably too much brake cleaner but like innac says anything worth doing is worth over doing

i spent about $50 bucks on brake cleaner alone. gaskets ran me around $45 i think.

thisaznboi888 im going to buy a box of brake cleaner when you come just incase

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

lol geeee how did u use 8 can? lol this is why I love my water/meth. All the tracks are as clean as glass. lol

Inaccurate

^ Or just delete the PCV and EGR to eliminate the source of the problem.

rooster415

honestly it beats me just over doing it

will be cutting my own egr valve at work next saturday goign to use the oem gasket for reference

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

it gets pretty expensive pretty quick....

port and polish - 450 - per head ? confirm this....places usually charge 500-600 per head...so assuming 900....
gaskets - 200 - dont skip this
springs - see below
retainers - springs and retainers are usually 300 ish for titanium ones
cams - around 700-800 no matter where you go....
bigger valves - 500ish

you are looking at 2600-2700 bucks....without touching the bottom end....

if you are just planning on a pnp job of the heads and nothing, i wudnt recommend venturing into this at all.....you are not considering the labor/time for the build.....if you do it yourself you are looking at 10 hours of removing time and around 10 hours of install + 1 week downtime for the heads to be done.....otherwise another 500-600 for someone to do the build....

so you are not closer to 3200 bucks....

THIS !!!

dont make this mistake

that is a ton of brake fluid....i would have taken it to a shop which have special solvent for cleaning all this and gotten it done there....

OR

i took my last set to a car wand wash....spray some brake cleaner and spray it with water....and brake fluid and water....get it clean like a mirror....

THIS !!!

rooster415

[QUOTE=swoosh;13788962]it gets pretty expensive pretty quick....

port and polish - 450 - per head ? confirm this....places usually charge 500-600 per head...so assuming 900....
gaskets - 200 - dont skip this
springs - see below
retainers - springs and retainers are usually 300 ish for titanium ones
cams - around 700-800 no matter where you go....
bigger valves - 500ish

you are looking at 2600-2700 bucks....without touching the bottom end....

if you are just planning on a pnp job of the heads and nothing, i wudnt recommend venturing into this at all.....you are not considering the labor/time for the build.....if you do it yourself you are looking at 10 hours of removing time and around 10 hours of install + 1 week downtime for the heads to be done.....otherwise another 500-600 for someone to do the build....

so you are not closer to 3200 bucks....

okay i will let the shop do the gaskets!.

port and polish - $450 - per head assuming 900....
gaskets - $200 - i wont dont skip this
springs and retainers im looking at around $550.
cams - around $700-800
bigger valves - 500ish
+ another i believe 300ish for the type s cams that im going to get regrinded.
+ labor which i got quoted for around 400-450 debating if i want to do it myself with the remove and reinstall.

so yeah.. its getting super pricey already.